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Guni posted:Did you not read the responses in the picking thread? I did, but I wanted to get more opinions while I waited for the SSD to come in. For what it's worth, I've now upgraded to a 500GB EVO SSD. I've also upgraded to a Z-87 PRO and i7 4770K and still have the issue. It's actually a little worse, because I'm getting random TDR issues now. Ran a couple of stress tests overnight and everything came back OK, so I'm not sure what's going on. Going to do a clean install today and see if that resolves it, but to be honest I'm not feeling very confident about that. At this point the only things left to replace the RAM or PSU, unless the GPU is faulty. It's frustrating. sevenflow fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Oct 13, 2013 |
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Oct 13, 2013 17:47
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Seconding the Zotac boxes are too slow sentiment. I have a Zotac Nano VD01 http://www.amazon.com/Zotac-PC-Barebone-System-ZBOXNANO-VD01-PLUS/dp/B00684NMQG and it is pretty garbage for anything besides upnp streaming. Even then, sometimes that had weird problems.
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Oct 13, 2013 17:57
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Fruits of the sea posted:I bought a portable cd/dvd writer (Samsung se-208) a couple months ago which has stopped responding after going unused for most of that time. Any recommendations for a portable usb writer that is reliable and available for purchase in Europe?
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Oct 13, 2013 18:31
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So my computer hasn't been turning on for a couple of months now. My dad told me it was the RAM, and it had to be replaced. He also told me I'll have to replace the motherboard since he can't find any compatible RAM chips. (My computer is ancient.) He knows a few things about computers but I don't know anything. Is there anything else I'll need to replace? I don't need brand new tech, just something that'll actually let me use my computer reliably. I have about $200 I can throw away at this, at the moment. tia
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Oct 14, 2013 02:10
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If you're replacing the motherboard because the RAM is too old to be found even new, dimes to dollars you really need to replace everything. Replacing the motherboard to use new RAM means replacing the CPU, too. And for $200, that's doable. But how old are we talking? What hardware exactly? There's a real chance that if your motherboard is so old that you can't find RAM for it, then a new motherboard would have different, incompatible plugs for hard drives and so you'd need a new hard drive, or the case could be BTX instead of ATX and you would need a new case and power supply, or the power supply has the right plugs but it doesn't put out enough 12-volt power for modern hardware. Not to mention that, if the system is as old as that, the hard drives and power supply are, statistically speaking, imminently ready to fail.
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Oct 14, 2013 03:18
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I have a laptop in a bad position, so its wireless connection is spotty at best. This is the only device that needs a better connection, so would something like this work well? or is there a better solution?
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Oct 14, 2013 05:21
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Since it connects via USB you'll be able to position it for optimal reception instead of where your laptop sits. There's also a possibility that wherever you have the laptop is just a black hole for your wireless and you'd be better served running a dedicated network cable or relocating your router/access point. Do you have a smart phone? If so install a wifi analysis app and walk around the room looking for better reception. Geoj fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Oct 14, 2013 |
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Oct 14, 2013 06:11
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Factory Factory posted:If you're replacing the motherboard because the RAM is too old to be found even new, dimes to dollars you really need to replace everything. Replacing the motherboard to use new RAM means replacing the CPU, too. And for $200, that's doable. But how old are we talking? What hardware exactly? There's a real chance that if your motherboard is so old that you can't find RAM for it, then a new motherboard would have different, incompatible plugs for hard drives and so you'd need a new hard drive, or the case could be BTX instead of ATX and you would need a new case and power supply, or the power supply has the right plugs but it doesn't put out enough 12-volt power for modern hardware. Not to mention that, if the system is as old as that, the hard drives and power supply are, statistically speaking, imminently ready to fail. Most of the hardware is as old as 2004, so I've decided just to save up for a new computer. I was going to upgrade everything eventually so now is as good a time as any. Thanks for the help.
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Oct 14, 2013 15:11
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I decided to update my graphics drivers yesterday as I was running really old ones (12.8). I uninstalled all the AMD/ATI software, rebooted, cleaned with the free version of Driver Fusion, rebooted again, installed the latest beta drivers (13.11_betav1) and rebooted yet again. And again after Windows Update updated the .NET framework version that got installed along with the drivers. The main reason to do this was because I noticed that hardware acceleration in Firefox was disabled on account of the driver being too old. Not that I ever really missed it, but I figured it couldn't hurt. Turns out that Firefox has some issues with rendering pages with (many) animated .gifs in them with hardware acceleration enabled. Pages eventually become like this:  These corruptions are limited to the window with the .gifs and are entirely within Firefox. They scroll along until they go off-screen and then are fixed. They're also fixed when that window's focus changes. And they're obviously capturable with printscreen. Animated areas are unaffected. I've since fixed it by disabling the hardware acceleration option in Firefox and haven't had any other issues. I won't miss hardware acceleration since I never used it and I'm sure the newer drivers will improve a whole host of issues. But since I actually embarked on this to get hardware acceleration working in Firefox, I have to wonder if I did it wrong or should have used a different version or what. My graphics card is a HD 7870 and OS is Windows 7 x64. So, in short, did I gently caress up the graphics driver update process or is Firefox just quirky?
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Oct 14, 2013 23:57
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Geemer posted:I decided to update my graphics drivers yesterday as I was running really old ones (12.8). I uninstalled all the AMD/ATI software, rebooted, cleaned with the free version of Driver Fusion, rebooted again, installed the latest beta drivers (13.11_betav1) and rebooted yet again. And again after Windows Update updated the .NET framework version that got installed along with the drivers.
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Oct 15, 2013 00:07
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Alereon posted:Try the Catalyst 13.10 Beta 2 drivers, 13.11 Beta 1 only adds support for the new R-series cards and Anandtech also noticed rendering errors. Thanks for the swift reply! I'll try those tomorrow.
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Oct 15, 2013 00:12
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I just installed 13.11 beta 1 yesterday since I figured it was about time to update my drivers.  Guess I'll have to switch to 13.10 tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
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Oct 15, 2013 07:42
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I am having a problem with my system. I am having occasional problems with my SSD/motherboard. Sometimes my computer won't see that I have the SSD plugged in at all during the BIOS. There are two fixes that I have found. 1) Plug the SSD's SATA cable in another port and restart the PC. 2) Unplug the SSD from the SATA and power cable then restart the PC. Power off the PC, plug the drive back in. Does not require changing SATA ports. The SSD is a Muskin Chronos Deluexe 240GB and the mother board is an EVGA X58 SLI 3. I've already RMA'd one mother board through EVGA using cross shipping, so this board is new or recertified. I RMA'd the previous board for dead SATA ports. The SSD stopped working in one port, plugged it into another port and it would work. Plug it into the old port and it would not work, neither would my DVD drive or HDD. ACHI is enabled, using the Intel controlled SATA 2 ports, the Marvell SATA 3 ports are disabled.
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Oct 15, 2013 07:58
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Alereon posted:Try the Catalyst 13.10 Beta 2 drivers, 13.11 Beta 1 only adds support for the new R-series cards and Anandtech also noticed rendering errors. LCD Deathpanel posted:I just installed 13.11 beta 1 yesterday since I figured it was about time to update my drivers. I'm still getting those rendering issues with 13.10b2 so I'll just leave hardware acceleration in Firefox off for now. Thanks anyway.
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Oct 15, 2013 08:36
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I need your guys help. A while back I purchased a Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse combination. Everything went well with it until last week when my mouse wheel died, so I went to Staples and picked up a new mouse on the cheap since money is tight. I wanted to get a corded mouse but the only one that actually had a cord was $150. Anyway, I brought it home, plugged it in and let it install the drivers and realized that it won't work if the keyboard's reciever is plugged into the computer since it was the same receiver for the old mouse. I probably should have realized that this would be an issue sooner, but I didn't. I was wondering if there is any way to continue to use my old wireless keyboard with the new mouse? I tried googling it, but all I could find was how to install a mouse, or guides to buying them.
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Oct 15, 2013 11:54
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jadebullet posted:I was wondering if there is any way to continue to use my old wireless keyboard with the new mouse? I tried googling it, but all I could find was how to install a mouse, or guides to buying them. Is it a Unifying receiver? If so, you can run the Logitech Unifying Software utility to pair the new mouse with your existing receiver. Unifying equipment have a little orange logo on them. 
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Oct 15, 2013 12:16
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The new mouse does, but unfortunately the old mouse and keyboard don't have the unifying ability and when I try an pair the keyboard to the unifying receiver it doesn't work.
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Oct 15, 2013 12:33
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SlayVus posted:I am having a problem with my SSD/motherboard. Have you tried replacing the SATA cable you're using with the SSD? Also does the problem follow the SSD if you swap SATA ports on the board - as in, if you move the SSD from port 0 to 1 do you eventually have to reseat the cable, or does it only happen when plugged into port 0? jadebullet posted:Anyway, I brought it home, plugged it in and let it install the drivers and realized that it won't work if the keyboard's reciever is plugged into the computer since it was the same receiver for the old mouse. Have you tried it with both the old and new receivers plugged in? There isn't really a hard limit on how many input devices you can have installed on a system. Geoj fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 15:53
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Tried a different USB port and it worked. Ugh, I need to get a USB hub one of these days. Why don't they make mice that use the mouse port anymore? I now have more devices than I have ports.
jadebullet fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 17:50
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jadebullet posted:Why don't they make mice that use the mouse port anymore? Its largely a case of "its easier to build to one spec" and you're guaranteed to have a USB port to work with on literally any modern computer. While most new system boards include PS/2 ports the trend among input device manufacturers seems to favor USB exclusively, or at the very least hardwire the device with USB and include a USB to PS/2 adapter. There are several advantages and disadvantages to both but the advantages of USB (hot swap capable, more robust and slimmer port design) tend to be more useful than the advantages of PS/2 (ability to power computer on from power off state, no key press limit, some older BIOS systems won't work with a USB keyboard.) Also in your specific case of using Logitech receivers with multi-device support, PS2 ports are single-device only so you would need a single wireless receiver for each device to use a PS/2 port.
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Oct 15, 2013 19:58
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Also, the PS/2 mouse port was officially declared to be deprecated in the late 90s, and we've had nearly 15 years since then for them to be phased out. The decline in manufacture of the devices themselves were helped along by the fact that laptops were the first to replace the old ports with USB ports, and how laptops have been the majority of computers sold since about 2005 or so. And with less PS/2 mice available, there was less of an incentive for OEMs to shell out the extra few cents for a matching port instead of having another USB port, and that became a self-reinforcing feedback loop there.
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Oct 15, 2013 20:19
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I wonder how many laptops still use PS/2 internally? It's a far better way to connect a keyboard and mouse than USB, for sure, being more responsive, lower overhead, available without driver initialisation.
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Oct 15, 2013 20:43
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HalloKitty posted:I wonder how many laptops still use PS/2 internally? Most Windows laptops still use it, since your typical southbridge chip/chips still implement it internally alongside other simple-to-implement legacy standards, and making the keyboard/touchpad built in connect by USB would usually cost a few extra cents versus using the logic already included. Of course this won't be exposed to an actual port because finding space to put the physical port and run the lines out would be a cost issue.
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Oct 15, 2013 20:50
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Yesterday I bought a cheap Case Logic wireless mouse from Walgreens. It's got two back/forward buttons on the left side and a DPI button on the top, underneath the wheel. Nothing in the packaging and nothing I can find online explains what the DPI button is supposed to do and pressing it seems to do nothing (unless it changes my DPI settings and the change is so small that I can't even notice it). What is this button supposed to do, and would I be able to incorporate it into AutoHotkey scripts if I wanted to? I've already written scripts that utilize "XButton1" and "XButton2" for the back/forward buttons, but "XButton3" seems to do nothing. Thanks for any info.
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Oct 17, 2013 02:07
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Lester Shy posted:Yesterday I bought a cheap Case Logic wireless mouse from Walgreens. It's got two back/forward buttons on the left side and a DPI button on the top, underneath the wheel. Nothing in the packaging and nothing I can find online explains what the DPI button is supposed to do and pressing it seems to do nothing (unless it changes my DPI settings and the change is so small that I can't even notice it). quote:DPI is the standard used to measure the mouse sensitivity, expressed as the number of DPIs (dots per linear inch) that a device can detect. By changing the DPI, you can instantly adjust pointer speed for precision tasks, such as in-game targeting or photo editing. The greater the number of DPIs, the higher the mouse sensitivity, and the faster the pointer speed. Though if your mouse is a piece of poo poo the button may either not work or the DPI range could be low enough to be irrelevant. As far as using the button in AHK you'd want to look at this page: http://www.autohotkey.com/docs/KeyList.htm#SpecialKeys
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Oct 17, 2013 05:42
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I'm confused by KVM switches. I have two U2412Ms that are connected to my main Windows 7 PC (each has one VGA, one DVI, and one DisplayPort connector). I also have a Laptop Dock (one VGA, one DVI, one DisplayPort connector) for my work laptop. I would like to use a KVM switch to switch my keyboard, mouse, and BOTH MONITORS between the computer and laptop with a simple click or keyboard press. What's the best way for me to accomplish this? Edit: (I actually have three of those monitors, but I'm assuming two is the best I can do in this case. If you can somehow find a way to trick a Latitude E5430 into displaying on three monitors, I'll buy you plat.) Chakron fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 06:44
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Chakron posted:I'm confused by KVM switches. This thingy is how you trick the Latitude to display three monitors. Plug it into the DisplayPort, get a 3840x1200 screen that's split by the device to two 1920x1200 screens. As for a triple screen KVM switch, well... A two-screen KVM switch (say with DVI, and you use an active DisplayPort adapter) costs at least $200 (e.g. this thing), and more like $400 for a bigger name like Belkin. The only 3-monitor KVM I can find is $1400. Comedy Option: set up a three-finger useless machine to press the buttons on three single-monitor KVM switches?
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Oct 17, 2013 07:12
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Factory Factory posted:This thingy is how you trick the Latitude to display three monitors. Plug it into the DisplayPort, get a 3840x1200 screen that's split by the device to two 1920x1200 screens. Wow, thanks for the different options. I think my best and most cost effective option for 3 monitor goodness would be to buy "the thingy" and a simple KVM for just the keyboard/mouse. Use the extra slots in each monitor to have the laptop dock and PC connected at the same time, and use the source button on the front of each monitor to change the source of each manually (this would be done like, once a day tops). And this is understanding that the 3840x1200 would be considered a single monitor by Windows for fullscreening purposes. Anything about that sound too crazy? And I guess I do owe you some kind of forums upgrade because that's new to me. Chakron fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 07:51
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Keep it. My account is 100% satis-factory. 
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Oct 17, 2013 09:29
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I have a 27" Korean hooked up to my 560 Ti and a 27" Acer on my Ivy Bridge integrated video. Every so often, my computer stops responding, stuttering, and this happens to the mouse cursor. It's not due to overheating because I cleaned out my case yesterday and it still happened tonight. Is this just a driver issue? I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers on Win7x64.
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Oct 17, 2013 11:14
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Josh Lyman posted:I have a 27" Korean hooked up to my 560 Ti and a 27" Acer on my Ivy Bridge integrated video. Every so often, my computer stops responding, stuttering, and this happens to the mouse cursor. It's not due to overheating because I cleaned out my case yesterday and it still happened tonight. Is this just a driver issue? I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers on Win7x64.
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Oct 17, 2013 15:50
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Josh Lyman posted:I have a 27" Korean hooked up to my 560 Ti and a 27" Acer on my Ivy Bridge integrated video. Every so often, my computer stops responding, stuttering, and this happens to the mouse cursor. It's not due to overheating because I cleaned out my case yesterday and it still happened tonight. Is this just a driver issue? I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers on Win7x64. 327.23 is basically a disaster for 560 Ti users (and Fermi users in general). There are a couple brightish spots in recent Forceware history, but nothing legit stable since 314.22. And for all they claim they want to support all of their users with unified drivers, after seeing what passes for support at nvidia.com, I almost wish they'd just do one last cleanup from 314.22 to make them the official choice for Fermi cards on 8.1 and then cut those lines loose; at least we'd know where we stand. 331.40 is a performance collapse for almost everyone, and still has the problems that 327 has. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 16:18
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Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask, but couldn't see any other relevant short question threads. I have a USB stick with security software installed (Integral Total Lock); I'd like to remove this software so the stick is completely clean. I have the password. Any ideas? I've searched around but couldn't see anything helpful.
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Oct 19, 2013 14:32
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I've posted a few issues that I've had with a Bluetooth adapter and an Apple Wireless keyboard: maybe it's interference, maybe it's hardware, maybe it's blah blah blah. I'm thinking I've fixed it. Issue: bluetooth keyboard doesn't work after restoring from sleep/hibernate, I have to re-pair it about 8/10 times. Reduced transmission distance. Apple Wireless Keyboard and a CSR Bluetooth radio on Win 7/64. Apparent solution: Either disable "USB Selective Suspend" in the Power Profile, or toggle off the "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in Device Manager. How I figured it out: plugged the radio in a USB hub with lights. Saw that the light was going off periodically for the radio. It was switching itself off or going into a low power mode that's probably great for laptops, but not so hot for PCs. Took me a stinkin' month of guessing and web searching to get this working, hope it's a permanent fix.
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Oct 19, 2013 19:32
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Lady Gaza posted:Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask, but couldn't see any other relevant short question threads. I have a USB stick with security software installed (Integral Total Lock); I'd like to remove this software so the stick is completely clean. I have the password. Any ideas? I've searched around but couldn't see anything helpful. I'm not familiar with that name, but if the software is on a hidden partition, you might be able to get at it in the Windows's Disk Management tool, or using gparted.
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Oct 19, 2013 19:35
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I'm looking for recommendations for a decent but not fancy desktop mic, I wouldn't need it for any more than chatting on Skype or whatever. I have very nice headphones with no mic so I don't want to grab a new headset if I don't have to, but I don't know anything about desktop mics. Thanks!
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Oct 19, 2013 20:17
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Sporkles posted:I'm looking for recommendations for a decent but not fancy desktop mic, I wouldn't need it for any more than chatting on Skype or whatever. I have very nice headphones with no mic so I don't want to grab a new headset if I don't have to, but I don't know anything about desktop mics. Thanks! Other than that you'll probably be limited to clip-on mics unless you want to spend $100+: http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic...clip+microphone . future ghost fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 20:22
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Lady Gaza posted:Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask, but couldn't see any other relevant short question threads. I have a USB stick with security software installed (Integral Total Lock); I'd like to remove this software so the stick is completely clean. I have the password. Any ideas? I've searched around but couldn't see anything helpful. I googled the software and it looks like this is an encryption system to protect whatever data is on the drive from unauthorized access? If so a simple format should be sufficient. Whatever you use for the format shouldn't care that there is encrypted data on the volume. All having an encrypted container file or even encrypting the entire volume does is prevent unauthorized access, it doesn't stop someone from erasing the data. To do that you need a hardware encryption device that prevents access to the volume until the proper key is supplied - like what an ironkey does. Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 20:28
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doctorfrog posted:I'm not familiar with that name, but if the software is on a hidden partition, you might be able to get at it in the Windows's Disk Management tool, or using gparted. Geoj posted:I googled the software and it looks like this is an encryption system to protect whatever data is on the drive from unauthorized access? If so a simple format should be sufficient. Whatever you use for the format shouldn't care that there is encrypted data on the volume. Thanks for the replies. Still can't remove the software though, it's a bit annoying but I can't see a way. When I plug the USB stick in, auto-run for a CD comes up, and then by entering my password I can gain access to the stick. Formatting only affects the data on the usb 'drive' that appears in My Computer, whereas the emulated 3.66 MB CD 'drive' is unaffected. Various partition tools don't work; e.g. windows disk management views the USB drive and the emulated CD as completely separate. Oh well, I suppose I can just buy a cheap USB stick, was just trying to save a bit of money.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:00
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Sounds like it came with the software installed then? As suggested above, running it through gparted may let you access/erase the hidden partition with the software installed on it, but yeah - USB 2.0 thumb drives are ridiculously cheap so it might be easier to just pick up a new one, especially if you have a retailer like Microcenter or Fry's within reasonable driving distance.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:07
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