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WIP'd Ajax, posting him before I go and screw him up by scrawling freehand on him like a talentless child. 
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Oct 19, 2013 08:08
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 18:46 |
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Baller.
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Oct 19, 2013 10:07
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Fix posted:WIP'd Ajax, posting him before I go and screw him up by scrawling freehand on him like a talentless child. I like this model a lot and your paint job is nice and I bought one to have a go at myself!
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Oct 19, 2013 12:40
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Baller. Croquet? That is a cool model and a great paintjob!
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Oct 19, 2013 12:50
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I finally got to try some of Vallejo's Liquid Silver today, and holy poo poo the coverage on this is fantastic. It takes washes really well too. I don't think I'm going to go back to regular old metallics if the rest of the line is this good.
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Oct 19, 2013 18:22
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All done for now. I added a little bit of mass to his right shoulder and shoulder-blade which improved it some. I also added a tab and some small details here and there.   With diffuse lighting:   Group photo with the recent 1:56 sculpts:  
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Oct 19, 2013 20:24
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Before I go ahead and paint this guy properly, I need some advice. This is a quick 20 minute basecoat and wash job on one of the character models that I'm trying to introduce orange to. Besides looking like superman strumming a guitar, should I switch the grey and orange or leave as is, i.e. grey cape, orange "hair" and "beard", I'm not feeling it with so much orange. Also I never have much luck with finecast stuff, it always looks all textured when I start painting which makes the washes look awful.
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Oct 19, 2013 21:47
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I agree that the orange would work much better where the grey is and vice versa. The blue is what is supposed to draw your eye. The orange will work good as a highlight and the grey will be neutral in all of it.
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Oct 19, 2013 21:55
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richyp posted:Before I go ahead and paint this guy properly, I need some advice. Looks kinda chunky edit: might just be the photo though
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Oct 19, 2013 22:12
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richyp posted:This is a quick 20 minute basecoat and wash job I loving hate you
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Oct 19, 2013 22:33
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ghetto wormhole posted:I loving hate you Tank brush, Sepia wash. Hairdryer. Large brush orange, large brush blue. Wash joints black. done. w00tmonger posted:Looks kinda chunky Sadly it's not the picture, in fact apart from primer there's no paint on the bone area, it's just a couple of washes, so it's not a "thin your paints issue". The whole surface of the model has just gone really rough which makes everything look even shitter than actually is. It's either the new can of primer I bought, or it's the finecast In regards to the orange, my wife who's usually pretty complimentary of my painting said, to quote, "That looks poo poo, you need to make the orange disappear." FAKE EDIT: Definitely something weird going on. Heres another one of the finecast models I primed and washed at the same time, you can see from the close up, how pitted and textured it looks. 
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Oct 19, 2013 22:36
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gently caress finecast. gently caress that primer.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:41
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Looks like a problem with the finecast, when primer messes up it usually does the opposite and covers the model in tiny bumps instead of tiny pits. That effect might actually be kind of cool if it was only on his armor or something. The pitting I mean.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:44
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Make an aquatic necron force. Say he's made of coral. Drape them in seaweed.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:47
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Yeah, what he said. When I've had aerosol primer go wrong in the past you can definitely feel the raised texture.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:47
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That's what I thought until I just went to get the recently primed plastic ghost ark. 
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Oct 19, 2013 22:50
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Strange, can you try to scrape a little off? Is it eating the plastic or is it just the paint being weird?
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Oct 19, 2013 22:55
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ghetto wormhole posted:Strange, can you try to scrape a little off? Is it eating the plastic or is it just the paint being weird? I can scrape it off with my fingernail so I'm guessing the paint has bubbled or something. Temperature wise in the garage it's pretty much the same as it always is when I prime, and the can is stored indoors so I'm not sure what happened with the primer. I have no idea what to do now.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:59
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What brand of primer is that? If it's GW they might replace the hosed models. Alternatively get some very fine wet & dry sandpaper to rub it down with. Commiserations, I lost part of my Mentor Legion to lovely undercoat.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:59
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krushgroove posted:Croquet? Slang for someone displaying ostentatious wealth; has not been said by a cool person in 20 years. So, I too am about to gently caress up an otherwise fine start to this WIP broken Dreadnought for the oath thread that has been kicking around in a bits box for 12 years. 
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Oct 19, 2013 23:06
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:What brand of primer is that? If it's GW they might replace the hosed models. Alternatively get some very fine wet & dry sandpaper to rub it down with. Commiserations, I lost part of my Mentor Legion to lovely undercoat. Yeah its GW primer, grabbed it today. I'll email them and send the pictures. Lets see what happens. Worse case scenario is I don't do any close ups of the ghost ark or character models. Just happy I didn't assemble everything and prime. The weird thing is the last can I used has been stuck in the garage during my hibernation last winter and all summer and the remaining dregs in the can worked fine the last few days, where as the new can seems to have messed up good and proper.
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Oct 19, 2013 23:07
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richyp posted:Tank brush, Sepia wash. Hairdryer. Large brush orange, large brush blue. Wash joints black. done. Your primer skunked. It happened to a bunch of my fire warriors. I had to strip them before I could paint them again, and the second can I used ALSO skunked.
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Oct 19, 2013 23:08
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Dirty Job posted:Your primer skunked. It happened to a bunch of my fire warriors. I had to strip them before I could paint them again, and the second can I used ALSO skunked. Yeah looks that way, poo poo happens I guess. More disappointed that I wasted an evening building the Ghost Ark and not able to get it painted and out of the way EDIT: For anyone wanting to know how I can crank out 4-5 bone coloured Necrons/Deathwing Terminators over a couple of hours, here's a pro-tip.  Covering a model in Seraphim Sepia over a (smooth functional) white primer is almost identical to a thinned Ushabati Bone. In fact it's so close on most of the Necron model's I only used Ushabati over areas where the wash stained the flat surfaces (occasional moldline etc..) Covering white primer in Nuln Oil will give you a colour virtually identical to VMC Sky Grey (see the guns) I tend to paint in 3, 30 minute stages throughout the day (read: baby nap times) Stage 1: Roughly paint some Boltgun/Leadbelcher over the metalic joints, and some Turquoise over the areas to be blue. Wash everything but the gun in Seraphim Sepia, everything else in Nuln Oil. Stage 2: Touch up any stained areas in a thin Ushabiti, and the grey areas in Sky Grey. Use VMC Sand Yellow (similar to Bleached bone, but slightly paler) and drag the brush over the raised edges for quick win edge-highlighting. Mix some of the Sand Yellow into Turquoise and run it over the edge of the blue bits/raised grill. Stage 3: Edge highlight in Sand Yellow + White. Use same mix in centre of blue areas. I did the exact same thing with the Deathwing Terminators, the only difference being that I went to pure white with the highlight as an additional step. (Just don't tell anyone it ruins the illusion that all those armour plates were meticulously hand painted) richyp fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 23:30
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I'd save those cans of primer though. That texture effect would look pretty cool on terrain pieces or statues.
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Oct 19, 2013 23:39
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Slang for someone displaying ostentatious wealth; has not been said by a cool person in 20 years. I used to play Labor Day croquet with my g/f's family in PIEDMONT, CA (the wealthy part of Oakland that basically seceded from the Town to keep their $ to themselves.) Everyone dressed in white and wore straw hats. Except me. I won three years in a row. 
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Oct 20, 2013 00:05
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richyp posted:Tank brush, Sepia wash. Hairdryer. Large brush orange, large brush blue. Wash joints black. done. I've had similar experiences. From what I understand is that when the can is hot I.e. left in a hot room or outside it can cause the excelerant in the can to become heated, which will come out hot. But because it cools quickly after leaving the can it won't melt the model but rather leave that pitted look.
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Oct 20, 2013 00:51
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 More Ork Conversions!  My second looted Leman Russ.  Would it be uncool of me to put the Crimson Fist symbol on that Rhino door?  This one has a still for extra fuel/refreshments. A friend of mine gave me an old Ork battleforce box which had some of the old style ork warbikes (with tiny riders) I turned one of them into this:  
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Oct 20, 2013 00:52
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^^^^ I like how you incorporated those trucks bitz as armour plating. drat these keep getting better and better!
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Oct 20, 2013 01:02
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Bucnasti posted:
What's that cable made out of/from? \/Oh yeah duh!\/ Looks like I'll have to hit up my roommate. my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 01:09
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Looks like its almost certainly guitar strings.
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Oct 20, 2013 01:24
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richyp posted:Yeah its GW primer, grabbed it today. I'll email them and send the pictures. Lets see what happens. Worse case scenario is I don't do any close ups of the ghost ark or character models. Just happy I didn't assemble everything and prime. The weird thing is the last can I used has been stuck in the garage during my hibernation last winter and all summer and the remaining dregs in the can worked fine the last few days, where as the new can seems to have messed up good and proper. Go to sainsburys. Buy some fairy power spray. Spray models. Leave for an hour, come back and the primer should slide off. Its safe to use on Finecast too.
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Oct 20, 2013 10:17
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No idea how this double post happened!
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Oct 20, 2013 10:17
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serious gaylord posted:Go to sainsburys. Buy some fairy power spray. Spray models. Leave for an hour, come back and the primer should slide off. Its safe to use on Finecast too. You are awesome. I'm actually off to sainsbury's in about an hour anyway. Trip report later.
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Oct 20, 2013 10:22
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richyp posted:You are awesome. I'm actually off to sainsbury's in about an hour anyway. Trip report later. Its not always kept with the washing up liquid, sometimes its near the oven cleaners. Green bottle with a red spray nozzle. For primer you might want to dunk the models in the stuff for a few hours but most of it should come right off.
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Oct 20, 2013 11:13
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Painting gold 'properly' is a pain in the butt. Has anyone here tried using the new citadel glazes on a dark silver base coat for a passable gold/brass?
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Oct 20, 2013 13:50
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cat with hands posted:Painting gold 'properly' is a pain in the butt. Funny you should say that but Im in the middle of doing that right now. My hint is to basecoat the gold area with a brown colour, then paint the gold on thinly after that. Wash with sepia or brown depending on the tone you want, and highlight up. Works OK for me.
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Oct 20, 2013 14:19
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serious gaylord posted:Its not always kept with the washing up liquid, sometimes its near the oven cleaners. Green bottle with a red spray nozzle. Cheers, I found it in the washing up liquid section. Gave them a thorough spraying and left them sitting for an hour. After brushing them for 10 minutes almost all of the primer is off, so I've given them another coating to get the last bits of primer off. Once I've glued the snapped parts back together I'll go and buy another can of White Primer from somewhere else. Although I'm now a little bit bothered about ruining them again. I'm not stripping the Ghost Ark though, gently caress that noise, it'll just have to look passable from a distance. FAKE EDIT: I'll update later when they've been scrubbed again.
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Oct 20, 2013 15:51
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cat with hands posted:Painting gold 'properly' is a pain in the butt. Have you given vallejo liquid gold a try? Paint on with an oil wash and you are sorted.
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Oct 20, 2013 17:15
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Long time lurker, first time mini-poster. I'm getting back in to 40k after a long absence and am concerned my old chosen scheme is in need of an update for all the new detail crammed on to the figures. I'm working on some assault terminators now and the wide plates make the un-highlighted chaos black base-coat look extremely boring and the silver/red accent colors I used on the rest of the army back in the day just seems to be lacking. A couple shots of other figs are below, and I'd love some feedback on where to go from here.   
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Oct 20, 2013 17:32
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 18:46 |
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Yeah, I don't think 3 colors is really enough. I don't like painting most of the emblems on SM models silver because that's what most of the 'technical' details get: things like cables, grills, etc. I think things like Black Templars/chaplains and stuff need a lot of 'busy work' (purity seals, stuff like that) or else they end up looking really boring if they stick to their scheme.
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Oct 20, 2013 17:37
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