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Ahh, got it - fraid I have no experience with any snow tires in 18".
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Oct 21, 2013 17:39
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| # ? May 28, 2024 15:51 |
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I would say the Altimax Arctics. They handled snow like a champ last year but I'm unsure about the sizes they come in.
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Oct 21, 2013 18:40
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Looks like Altimax Arctics top out at 17", so unless he's got 17s he's gotta go with something else.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:08
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So I love my 2010 outback, I'm exceedingly happy with it. It's a little odd that it weighs and can tow (in theory) almost as much as my truck, all squished into a car, but I'm getting used to that. Anyhow, one thing that's weirding me out: if I'm going about, oh, 30, and I go over a little pothole in the road or something, it feels like the back end sways as I come off it, and I'm pretty sure it always sways to the right. I'm not sure how better to describe it, it just feels like the back end is a little swishy, as if I were peeling out just ever so slightly and the back was drifting to the right. Wtf, am I imagining this, or is there something that could possibly be causing it? I feel like in all my other vehicles I've ever had, I'd never felt that swish to one side coming off a pothole or bump. And we're not talking giant holes or anything, just typical rust belt road stuff.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:09
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Bad Munki posted:So I love my 2010 outback, I'm exceedingly happy with it. It's a little odd that it weighs and can tow (in theory) almost as much as my truck, all squished into a car, but I'm getting used to that. The later gens have the same rear suspension as 3rd gens. I've noticed in my sedan, my wagon, and chrisgt's outback, there is a slight shimmy from the rear end end when you hit bumps. I need to dig into my wagon suspension more and figure out wtf is the cause.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:35
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Well, if you do, post a trip report. I know gently caress all about this stuff but I'd still like to know the cause/if it's at all addressable. It's really not a big issue, but it makes me wonder what'll happen if it decides to swish on a nice icy road or something.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:36
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I would imagine that would have to be some kind of bushing in the rear suspension that's just too soft (probably spec'd for NVH reasons considering how close it would be to the traditionally-tinny-on-Subarus load floor). I know the guys who install adjustable control arms in the back of their GR STIs have remarkable amounts of camber wear in the back even compared to GDs with the same exact camber angle, so maybe something is dancing around there on those cars too.
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Oct 21, 2013 20:12
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Am I crazy for thinking it always seems to sway to the right? I haven't kept a diary or anything, I just feel like I'm always thinking, "There it goes, off to the right again."
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Oct 21, 2013 20:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:
Different camber curve?
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Oct 21, 2013 20:27
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I havent driven enough to figure it out yet. My sedan was an auto so I never drove it in anger. My wagon blew up too soon to spank. The rear upper arm outter bushings like to rot out and give you mad negative camber. I plan to replace that and the toe bushings along with the diff mounts. If it still does it I'll mess with other stuff. I want to get my diff to stop moving and my alignment #'s settled first.
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Oct 21, 2013 22:38
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When I go from first to second in my Impreza, unless I wait a few seconds and let the car slow down a heap the gears grind. It only does this from first to second, not even when you go second to second right after it happens. Last time I got it serviced the mechanic said the clutch/brake pedals were getting worn out, could it be something to do with that? Or is my gearbox just dying? I don't think it's ever been replaced and it's a 97 model so its pretty old. If it is the gearbox, is it worth replacing it with a 6 speed like is mentioned in the OP, it's only an RX. Also, if I did get a 6 speed gearbox, would it be more fuel efficient driving it on the highway? Uni is 50-60 mins away currently, ~40 minutes of that is on the highway, I could probably get back any extra spent on a gearbox in fuel savings couldn't I?
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Oct 22, 2013 01:46
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Try replacing the fluid in the transmission. It has a surprising effect on how the gearbox behaves, oem Subaru extra S is probably one of the most recommended fluids for the 5 mt.
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Oct 22, 2013 13:46
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Winter is coming. Time for snow tires.
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Oct 22, 2013 14:35
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:When I go from first to second in my Impreza, unless I wait a few seconds and let the car slow down a heap the gears grind. It only does this from first to second, not even when you go second to second right after it happens. Gear grind is internal to the box. Clutch and brakes are external to the box. Your syncros could be demolished causing the gearbox to have to unload a bit. The other things that might change it are fluid change and new mounts. If the case is flailing around that could certainly piss things off.
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Oct 22, 2013 15:52
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Slow is Fast posted:Gear grind is internal to the box. Clutch and brakes are external to the box. A clutch pedal/system that is not fully disengaging can cause a grind to happen though even with the gearbox fine. My master/slave on the RS had both failed at one point so I was getting really strange grinds from 1-2 and also into R that I couldn't understand, until I realized that under some conditions it just simply wasn't bothering to disengage. I finally figured it out when I was rolling a bit on a hill and got a ridiculous grind into R despite having the clutch flat on the floor. si fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Oct 22, 2013 |
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Oct 22, 2013 15:54
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Meat Mitts posted:I'm going to be buying winter tires for my STI's first winter. I'm in SE WI and have a company car with lovely AS tires for my non-severe weather DD. I'm set on getting a studless snow/ice tire, and I'm down to the X-ice Xi3 vs. the Blizzak WS70. Has anyone had a chance to compare these two tires? Tirerack's comparion seems to show that both tires are nearly equal for snow/ice handling, but the X-ice handles much better in dry conditions. The general consensus seems to be that blizzaks wear out much quicker, though. Is that a fair assessment? If so, I'll pay the premium for the X-ices. I had the X-Ice Xi3's on my G35 and they were great—it was a pretty terrible car in the snow regardless but they helped it out a lot and still felt good in not snow conditions, unlike some snow tires I've owned.
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Oct 22, 2013 16:09
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Bajaha posted:Try replacing the fluid in the transmission. It has a surprising effect on how the gearbox behaves, oem Subaru extra S is probably one of the most recommended fluids for the 5 mt. I had the Andrewtech cocktail and drained it for Extra-S and downright hated the Extra-S, plus it started to grind going into fourth. Andrewtech is the way to go on the 5 speeds in my opinion.
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Oct 22, 2013 16:34
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Yakattak posted:I had the Andrewtech cocktail and drained it for Extra-S and downright hated the Extra-S, plus it started to grind going into fourth. Andrewtech is the way to go on the 5 speeds in my opinion. I've been a little cautious towards custom mixtures. I had been using Scotty's cocktail in my old transmission before the swap. Felt great for shifting but after a year or so had a few bearings fail that did a number on the internals. Was in a pinch and ended up having the box completely rebuilt and then sold it shortly after because I did the swap. Don't know if fluid was a factor in the failure, could have been coincidence. Shop mentioned fluid as a probable cause but I'm not sold on it. Decided against taking a chance and just ran extra s in the new one. In my transmission it feels really nice and not that much of a difference from when I had Scotty's cocktail in the old one. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Oct 22, 2013 |
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Oct 22, 2013 19:16
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What are these cocktails you guys are putting in your cars? Is that a real thing? 
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Oct 23, 2013 01:05
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I'm assuming this is something I can do on the driveway right? This is my first car so I've never done something like that before. Hopefully it's not too expensive in Australia too.
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Oct 23, 2013 01:06
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Bajaha posted:I've been a little cautious towards custom mixtures. I had been using Scotty's cocktail in my old transmission before the swap. Felt great for shifting but after a year or so had a few bearings fail that did a number on the internals. Was in a pinch and ended up having the box completely rebuilt and then sold it shortly after because I did the swap. Don't know if fluid was a factor in the failure, could have been coincidence. Shop mentioned fluid as a probable cause but I'm not sold on it. Scotty's cocktail is known to go acidic. My tuner had it in his car before and it destroyed all his seals. His trans has been on Andrewtech for 100k and had no issues I guess.
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Oct 23, 2013 02:46
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BoyBlunder posted:What are these cocktails you guys are putting in your cars? Is that a real thing? Yeah, it's a thing. Stems from the fact that Subaru gearboxes aren't the nicest when it comes to rowing gears, these cocktails try to mix different trans fluids with varying levels of friction modifiers to get a smoother gearbox. Got these from a quick google search: Scotty's Cocktail: 1qt Redline lightweight shockproof 1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90 Andrewtech Cocktail: 3 quarts of Redline shockproof gear oil 1 quart of Motul Gear 300 Looking at the Scotty's Cocktail thread on NASIOC seams to show that people now don't recommend it anymore, as Yakattak mentioned. Unfortunately when I tried it there were very positive reviews so I thought it would be safe but it might have pooched my gearbox in retrospect. The Andrewtech cocktail seems to be a good one, at least from what I found from that quick search. Extra S seems to work really well with my current gearbox so I don't really have a reason to play around. To each their own, choose whatever works for you and gets good reviews.
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Oct 23, 2013 04:09
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It's about time to do the timing belt on my wife's '09 wrx (just ticked over 100k). I haven't done of these yet, any tips? Any specific kit recommended?
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Oct 23, 2013 06:28
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dyne posted:It's about time to do the timing belt on my wife's '09 wrx (just ticked over 100k). I haven't done of these yet, any tips? Any specific kit recommended? Have never done this on a WRX but generally while you're in there you always want to replace the water pump and the belt tensioner(s) as well. You can probably order a complete kit through Jamal?
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Oct 23, 2013 06:55
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dyne posted:It's about time to do the timing belt on my wife's '09 wrx (just ticked over 100k). I haven't done of these yet, any tips? Any specific kit recommended? I used the gates kit when rebuilding my '10 WRX engine, make sure you get the one that has 2 outlets on the waterpump if you're changing it aswell, although as an '09 I don't think it's old enough to require a new WP so soon. Add another recommendation to go through Jamal, he's awesome to deal with. It's a fairly simple procedure, I've got some documentation on how to do it if you want it. The only tricky part is the getting 2 of the cams to stay put when you're putting on the belt, get a friend to help if you don't want to spend the $texas for the factory cam holding tool, it's not too much of a pain to do it without the specialty tool. Definitely take out the radiator, it's much easier access without it on there, and might as well do a quick flush and put new coolant in there since the rads already out.
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Oct 23, 2013 07:19
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There's an aftermarket cam lock tool too - http://www.company23.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=62 Some people I know have had success with it.
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Oct 23, 2013 15:53
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Another vote for jamal. I got the performance gates kit when I did my 207. I got an aftermarket belt holder, as recommended by the nasioc 207 thread. The kit has everything you need. I didn't need a cam holder on mine, I just let it spin and close the valves. Do you need it on the new motors because they are geared together?
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Oct 23, 2013 19:35
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Crossposting from the stupid questions thread. I have a 2000 Subaru Impreza whose check engine light is chronically illuminated. My sister, from whom I bought the car, had the O2 sensor replaced twice which fixed the problem temporarily. I am now due for emissions inspection and the light is on, which means something has to be done! I took it to Pep Boys (ugh) and their computer is giving them the error code P0420, and they are telling me I need a new catalytic converter. After googling around a little, I have come to the tentative understanding that in fact that error code is NOT definitive evidence of a bad catalytic converter, and that the code can be caused by any number of bad sensors, a leak in the exhaust line, etc. I am planning on taking it to another mechanic for a 2nd opinion, but I want to know what to ask them to check before up and replacing the catalytic converter. I would hate to make a $600 repair based on a pretty general diagnostic readout without eliminating the other possibilities. I'm not trying to weasel out of making the repair if it has to be done, but I'd like to be pretty sure that the catalytic converter itself is the problem before I do it.
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Oct 23, 2013 22:47
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blindjoe posted:I didn't need a cam holder on mine, I just let it spin and close the valves. Do you need it on the new motors because they are geared together? The Cam holder is so you don't need 3+ hands to line up the drivers side cam gears & belt (the gears don't want to stay in the correct place). Source, having helped do other timing belts and doing my own timing belt using the Company23 tool that seat safety switch mentioned above:  
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Oct 23, 2013 23:00
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My dash clock and HVAC lights dim whenever I turn on my headlights, making them almost impossible to see in sunlight. This occurs with the headlights and just the parking lights. Is this a "feature" or is something hosed? '07 WRX.
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Oct 23, 2013 23:03
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Fifty Three posted:My dash clock and HVAC lights dim whenever I turn on my headlights, making them almost impossible to see in sunlight. This occurs with the headlights and just the parking lights. Is this a "feature" or is something hosed? '07 WRX. It's a "feature", but you can adjust it using the ring on the stalk that you use to turn on the lights... (Or at least I can on my 06 STI and previous 05 WRX).
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Oct 23, 2013 23:09
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I have to do the cam seals on my 2.2L SOHC this weekend, which means I have to re-arm the tensioner. I really don't want to take it off the front cover (its helicoiled in), so if I use a C-clamp, how slowly should I compress it? I've read somewhere that 30-minutes or more is the best way. Its a 15K mile old Gates tensioner.
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Oct 23, 2013 23:12
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GrantC posted:It's a "feature", but you can adjust it using the ring on the stalk that you use to turn on the lights... (Or at least I can on my 06 STI and previous 05 WRX). 
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Oct 23, 2013 23:17
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Fifty Three posted:I went out and checked- they're already at max brightness and the dimmer ring doesn't affect the dash clock anyway. Thanks, though. This is a really stupid feature, some of us like having our lights on all the time. Oh, sorry. I misread your post as "dash, clock, and HVAC lights", and I knew that would affect the dash brightness. If it keeps you up at night maybe you can unclip the clock from the dash & snip the "ILL" wire going to it?
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Oct 23, 2013 23:29
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Or convert to DRLs.
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Oct 23, 2013 23:45
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Speaking of, what's a really good headlight for my 2010 outback? I want something that will make everyone hate me and ignite trees at a hundred yards, and THEN I want to turn on my high beams.
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Oct 24, 2013 04:48
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GrantC posted:If it keeps you up at night maybe you can unclip the clock from the dash & snip the "ILL" wire going to it?
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Oct 24, 2013 05:05
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Bad Munki posted:Speaking of, what's a really good headlight for my 2010 outback? I want something that will make everyone hate me and ignite trees at a hundred yards, and THEN I want to turn on my high beams. Tape two of these to the hood: http://www.wickedlasers.com/torch
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Oct 24, 2013 15:32
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Bad Munki posted:Speaking of, what's a really good headlight for my 2010 outback? I want something that will make everyone hate me and ignite trees at a hundred yards, and THEN I want to turn on my high beams. Ricey HIDs off eBay? When I see HID bulbs in stock projectors it makes me cringe.
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Oct 24, 2013 15:43
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anyone care to help me diagnose a new to me problem? I've been getting an overwhelming burnt oil smell in my car after I've driven long enough to get the car up to temp and come to a stop, stop as in a red light, stopping to back up or parking at work/my house my oil level hasn't dropped and I've got no visible oil leaks lookinng in the engine bay. the belts are tight and the pulleys don't look polished as if the belts were slipping so its probably not a belt. I did do a track day 2 weeks ago and had to top off the oil as it lost under a half quart through the day. is it possible the oil managed to collect somewhere in the intake track and i have to drain it? the car is an 05 sti, engine is a stock aside an intake, exhaust and a protune
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Oct 25, 2013 00:17
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