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Jacked it up and the springs are fine. So where's that rumbling noise coming from? CV joints are okay, rear bearings seem okay, diff seems to be weeping from the drain plug though, I'll have to see if I can check that this weekend.
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Oct 22, 2013 20:37
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I'll wait for the 4 door 2 series.
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Oct 22, 2013 20:55
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Powershift posted:I'll wait for the 4 door 2 series. I feel like I'm getting wooshed here
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Oct 22, 2013 21:27
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rscott posted:I feel like I'm getting wooshed here We all are.
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Oct 22, 2013 21:31
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That seam across the front is the one thing that kills it for me. Why wouldn't they just push it a bit farther up? What designer thought "Perfectly rectangular hood, that's what everyone wants. I'll just cut across here."
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Oct 22, 2013 22:37
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Saga posted:From the dim and distant past when I had an E46, was there not a change in the loom for audio between pre-facelift and facelift? I seem to recall you couldn't really do an aux-in for pre-facelifts, at least on US cars, and that was one reason to buy a facelift. I could be imagining that. Not quite correct. Early models can be equipped with a dice style adapter if the car is prewired for a CD changer. But you have to run it from the trunk to the front. But even better, you can drop in a newer aux-in compatible head unit. Then you just need an antenna adapter and the right frequency new style antenna for the right C pillar diversity thingy. All of which can be obtained on eBay. There is a great guide somewhere.
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Oct 23, 2013 01:09
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Has anyone had any experience with the DISA rebuild kits from German Auto Solutions? If so, how much of a pain in the rear end is it to do?
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Oct 23, 2013 04:24
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I bought a rebuild kit on the advice of someone in this thread; I had no complaints about it. It's a pretty easy rebuild, and the kit goes together really well. It took me about an hour, at least half of which was scraping the old moulded gasket off the valve. The hundred-odd dollar kit is a far cry from a new, $400 DISA valve (which will develop the exact same issue at some point, rather than fix it outright). MrChips fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Oct 23, 2013 |
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Oct 23, 2013 04:32
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Viper_3000 posted:Has anyone had any experience with the DISA rebuild kits from German Auto Solutions? If so, how much of a pain in the rear end is it to do? Yes, I bought the rebuild kit from GAS and it is excellent. Great quality, much better design than the OEM part, and much cheaper than a new OEM part. Been running my rebuilt DISA for several months with no issues. Old post here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2809820&userid=64037&perpage=40&pagenumber=5#post413299316
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Oct 23, 2013 08:46
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Its finally gotten cold in Georgia. Wonderful time to realize my blower works fine but the air that it blows is not hot! 
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Oct 23, 2013 15:52
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Rumbling noise is rear brakes, whoo, Sunday is booked up then.
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Oct 23, 2013 22:35
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BMW brakes are super easy to service, aside from finding the right tool combination to remove the slide pins (rear is harder because of the shocks). By the way, does everybody else NOT grease their slide pins? I read somewhere that BMW doesn't recommend it and so I didn't. I'm about 80% through a full set of brakes and have had great performance the entire way.
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Oct 23, 2013 22:44
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revmoo posted:BMW brakes are super easy to service, aside from finding the right tool combination to remove the slide pins (rear is harder because of the shocks).\ 7mm allen bit from a socket set and the correct size ratcheting wrench for the end that would go into the bit holder. Never had issues trying to clear rear shocks on any BMW. And I grease my slide pins, but the sleeves are brass 
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Oct 23, 2013 22:56
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I had the pleasure of driving Contraband's 2002 in Los Angeles this past weekend. It was fun as heck.
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Oct 24, 2013 15:55
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Any suggestions for a winter tire setup for an E92 M3? We get snow but I just won't drive those days. It's getting into the low 50s and I can already feel the stock tires are too stiff and take a long time to warm up.
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Oct 24, 2013 20:13
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How much snow do you see, and how well are the roads maintained in your area? Even though they are $$$$$, I would recommend Michelin Pilot Alpins. They're what Michelin calls a "performance winter tire", which means they give up a bit of snow/ice performance for better traction on wet or cold, bare pavement. I have a set on my E46 and I couldn't be happier with them. The only knock against them is that they are outrageously expensive for a winter tire, and it would only get worse in the sizes you'd be looking at for an M3.
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Oct 24, 2013 20:22
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MrChips posted:How much snow do you see, and how well are the roads maintained in your area? Even though they are $$$$$, I would recommend Michelin Pilot Alpins. They're what Michelin calls a "performance winter tire", which means they give up a bit of snow/ice performance for better traction on wet or cold, bare pavement. I have a set on my E46 and I couldn't be happier with them. The only knock against them is that they are outrageously expensive for a winter tire, and it would only get worse in the sizes you'd be looking at for an M3. Very little snow. Maybe an inch once or twice during winter. The roads here basically aren't maintained. It's like a third would country. I've been driving this new M3 on them for 6 months and its rattling like a 10 year old Mustang now. Edit: WHELP 
Jealous Cow fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Oct 24, 2013 |
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Oct 24, 2013 20:24
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Lightbulb Out posted:I had the pleasure of driving Contraband's 2002 in Los Angeles this past weekend. that paint job is sweet!
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Oct 24, 2013 20:33
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Jealous Cow posted:Very little snow. Maybe an inch once or twice during winter. That's not very much snow at all; do the roads get icy (from cold or freezing precip)? Also when I said maintained, I should have been more specific and asked "are the roads in your area cleared and/or salted/sanded promptly?" Based on what you've said, I would probably pass on the more aggressive winter tires like Blizzaks and X-Ices and stick with something equivalent to the Pilot Alpin.
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Oct 24, 2013 20:33
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MrChips posted:That's not very much snow at all; do the roads get icy (from cold or freezing precip)? Also when I said maintained, I should have been more specific and asked "are the roads in your area cleared and/or salted/sanded promptly?" Pretty rarely get ice. They use sand here on below-freezing days and rarely have to plow. Thanks for the advice!
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Oct 24, 2013 21:01
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Parts/brand question: I've a little clunk in the front right, with a little front to back play in that wheel. Pricing up a new lca I've an option to get lemforder, moog, ocap or q-drive. I've heard of none of these, any guidance? The bmw forums are 50% "ALWAYS BUY OEM"  and 50% "THEY'RE ALL THE SAME, GET THE CHEAPEST"
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Oct 25, 2013 07:51
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I'm having an issue in my 07 Z4M Coupe; if i depress the clutch under 3k RPMs I get this shuttering type of sound from the rear end. My old E46 M3 (and a friends E92 M3) made pretty the same sound but not nearly as frequently, and only under 2k RPMs. The E46 was only 3 years old and the E92 was almost new so I always assumed it was nothing, but now that I'm dealing with a 6 year old car I have worries. Any ideas as to what this could be? If I'm very, very smooth on the clutch it doesn't seem to happen which makes me think it might be the CDV, is that a reasonable assumption? Any help would be appreciated. If something is wrong I'd like to know what to replace so I can take care of it ASAP. edit: I'm also getting a pretty nasty rattle type sound from the motor around 2800-3300 RPMs. I am hoping this is just the infamous vanos rattle but I'd like to be sure. Over 3300 or so RPMs the sound goes way completely and I've driven the car for a few thousand miles this way with no other issues other than the sound. Is this basically what I would be expecting out of a vanos rattle or should I be looking elsewhere for the problem? omgitstheinternet fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 12:31
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Cakefool posted:Parts/brand question: I've a little clunk in the front right, with a little front to back play in that wheel. Pricing up a new lca I've an option to get lemforder, moog, ocap or q-drive. I've heard of none of these, any guidance? The bmw forums are 50% It's so tough to judge since almost no one owns a car long enough and changes parts often enough to truly test and compare the quality over time. I will say though that the small, vertically mounted front stabilizer sticks on my E34 tear in the rubber after about 1-2 years, buying cheapo ones.
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Oct 25, 2013 12:39
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Cakefool posted:Parts/brand question: I've a little clunk in the front right, with a little front to back play in that wheel. Pricing up a new lca I've an option to get lemforder, moog, ocap or q-drive. I've heard of none of these, any guidance? The bmw forums are 50% My rule is that if the part can cause catastrophic failure, or is going to take me more than 2 hours to replace if it breaks again in short order, I spend the money for OEM. Otherwise, gently caress it the cheap parts are just as good.
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Oct 25, 2013 13:02
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Cakefool posted:Parts/brand question: I've a little clunk in the front right, with a little front to back play in that wheel. Pricing up a new lca I've an option to get lemforder, moog, ocap or q-drive. I've heard of none of these, any guidance? The bmw forums are 50% Lemforder is the best, probably followed by Moog on that list. The other two I haven't heard about. I'd stay away from cheap parts if it has a bushing, but I drive an E34 and they're terrible for getting a shimmy if the bushings aren't super great, and they chew up suspension parts.
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Oct 25, 2013 13:12
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Also I figured I'd post these here. From a recent early morning drive up in the mountains that resulted in some spectacular views.   
omgitstheinternet fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 13:15
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Edit: I couldn't have been more wrong don't listen to me.
concise fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 16:12
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8ender posted:Lemforder is the best, probably followed by Moog on that list. The other two I haven't heard about. I'd stay away from cheap parts if it has a bushing, but I drive an E34 and they're terrible for getting a shimmy if the bushings aren't super great, and they chew up suspension parts. Price wise they go lemforder, moog, q-drive, ocap. Ocap are £50, lemforder are £150. Thanks, I wanted opinions before I discussed price. I was thinking moog.
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Oct 25, 2013 19:13
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omgitstheinternet posted:I'm having an issue in my 07 Z4M Coupe; if i depress the clutch under 3k RPMs I get this shuttering type of sound from the rear end. My old E46 M3 (and a friends E92 M3) made pretty the same sound but not nearly as frequently, and only under 2k RPMs. The E46 was only 3 years old and the E92 was almost new so I always assumed it was nothing, but now that I'm dealing with a 6 year old car I have worries. Any ideas as to what this could be? If I'm very, very smooth on the clutch it doesn't seem to happen which makes me think it might be the CDV, is that a reasonable assumption? Any help would be appreciated. If something is wrong I'd like to know what to replace so I can take care of it ASAP. My '06 has both of these symptoms as well, FWIW.
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Oct 25, 2013 22:02
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omgitstheinternet posted:I'm having an issue in my 07 Z4M Coupe; if i depress the clutch under 3k RPMs I get this shuttering type of sound from the rear end. My old E46 M3 (and a friends E92 M3) made pretty the same sound but not nearly as frequently, and only under 2k RPMs. The E46 was only 3 years old and the E92 was almost new so I always assumed it was nothing, but now that I'm dealing with a 6 year old car I have worries. Any ideas as to what this could be? If I'm very, very smooth on the clutch it doesn't seem to happen which makes me think it might be the CDV, is that a reasonable assumption? Any help would be appreciated. If something is wrong I'd like to know what to replace so I can take care of it ASAP. Are you sure it's from the rear end? The dual mass flywheels in e46s tended to be pretty noisy/rattley when you clutch in, or when you turn the car off. If it's actually coming from the rear end you might want to check for play in the diff mounts. concise posted:This sounds exactly like VANOS rattle, and the job for replacing worn parts looks like a huge pain in the rear end. I replaced the VANOS gaskets on my M54 a couple weeks ago and it wasn't bad, but fixing the rattle is a lot more involved. To do that, you have to disassemble the valves to get at the worn bearing rings, then mess around with sanding the new rings until you get a proper fit. For the time you spend messing with that, you only save $130 vs buying a Dr. VANOS replacement and sending them yours. If you can take apart the vanos and have a vise, you can fix the seals. It's maybe an extra hour to do it and you save a lot of money, especially since you don't have to gently caress with cores. Hell, on an e36 the seals are way easier than actually getting the vanos timed properly. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 23:36
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omgitstheinternet posted:Also I figured I'd post these here. From a recent early morning drive up in the mountains that resulted in some spectacular views. If I didn't have insatiable M3 lust, this would be my next car in a heartbeat. Also, I hate you and your mountains, we just have rolling hills here in middle TN which while pretty and poo poo tons of fun to drive, don't have the same views. On a scale from not so bad to completely sucks how bad is changing a CCV in the e46? I've determined my problems are vacuum related so I'l looking at replacing it and the rubber intake arms next weekend. (When it is hopefully not freezing outside like it is this morning)
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Oct 26, 2013 14:34
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Crustashio posted:If you can take apart the vanos and have a vise, you can fix the seals. It's maybe an extra hour to do it and you save a lot of money, especially since you don't have to gently caress with cores. Hell, on an e36 the seals are way easier than actually getting the vanos timed properly. Yeah dude you're totally right. The S engine VANOS isn't similar at all, and I was dead wrong on replacement unit cost difference. Not sure why I thought the Z4M had a M54...
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Oct 26, 2013 14:38
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It's brake pad time for my e46 330Ci. Any reason to go with anything other than OEM pads if its just a DD'er that doesn't see any track/autox usage?
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Oct 26, 2013 16:57
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No. The OEM pads (textar/pagid/whatever) are some of the best BMW pads if you don't mind the dust. I actually run them on my M3 and I autoX it a lot. And I find aftermarket pads either sacrifice feel or noise.
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Oct 26, 2013 18:00
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Any thoughts on the LCI 5 series? I am thinking about replacing my '08 750Li with something smaller, but I recall the F10 had issues at launch. Mrs Mango still drives an E61 (yes the wagon, no we aren't ever selling it) and the N54 has been good except for all of the HPFP and related issues... To realize I am probably insane to keep the 7 past it's warranty, and I may not want to go CPO again as it wasn't the best experience overall, and a new 7 is more than I want to spend.
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Oct 26, 2013 20:36
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Ultimate Mango posted:Any thoughts on the LCI 5 series? I am thinking about replacing my '08 750Li with something smaller, but I recall the F10 had issues at launch. Mrs Mango still drives an E61 (yes the wagon, no we aren't ever selling it) and the N54 has been good except for all of the HPFP and related issues... A friend just picked up an LCI 535 x-wagon. Aside from the car being absolutely stunning with the M performance options, they are loving it. Already taken it to Montana (from Oregon) and back all without issue. The HPFP issue seems tended to with the latest revision of hardware, so that might not be as much of an issue as previously experienced i.e., I had two fail within the first 2500 miles of ownership of my LCI 335i.
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Oct 26, 2013 21:12
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Are there any gotchas as far as doing rear pads at home on a LCI 335 diesel?
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 21:39
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BlackMK4 posted:Are there any gotchas as far as doing rear pads at home on a LCI 335 diesel? Don't forget brake pad wear sensors  Otherwise, all systems green lighted.
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Oct 26, 2013 22:02
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Ultimate Mango posted:Any thoughts on the LCI 5 series? I am thinking about replacing my '08 750Li with something smaller, but I recall the F10 had issues at launch. Mrs Mango still drives an E61 (yes the wagon, no we aren't ever selling it) and the N54 has been good except for all of the HPFP and related issues... There are a lot of nice upgrades and NAV is now standard, etc but then they add in stuff like charging $1900 USD more for LED lights. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730644 F10 is pretty big now 193 inches so test drive it for sure. I also would not recommend the 6-speed MT in a 535 - it doesn't feel right in a car this big.
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Oct 26, 2013 23:02
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I am replacing my valve cover gasket, and everything looks pretty good without any obvious sludge, except my vanos unit is uniformly solid brown with caked/burnt oil. Is there any reason why this might be? Engine has 155k, M52 328Ci.
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Oct 27, 2013 01:04
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