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Would it be foolish to buy a 2008 328XI wagon with 100k miles, if I wanted to keep it for 5 years or more? I'm assuming I'd have to do some heavy lifting maintenance on wear items (and I'm fine with that) but can I count on the motor and transmission?
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Oct 27, 2013 01:35
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If you want to, but that person was putting over 20K miles on it a year which is five above average. So get a good price for it.
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Oct 27, 2013 02:12
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Keyser S0ze posted:There are a lot of nice upgrades and NAV is now standard, etc but then they add in stuff like charging $1900 USD more for LED lights. I have read a ton of bimmerfest and the F10 forum. The 550i is way tempting, and it seems the weird missing sport suspension thing from early '14 builds is resolved. I guess part of what I was asking here is to validate that an out of warranty seven series is indeed an expensive proposition, I have known more than one person with older sevens hitting five figure repair bills... Also is it true that BMW no longer offers the higher end extended warranty? I have one on the 08 535 wagon and it covers everything (full nav replacement a few months ago was $50, but on my CPO 750 it was $2k), but according to other forums you can't get that one any more.
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Oct 27, 2013 19:02
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Ultimate Mango posted:I have read a ton of bimmerfest and the F10 forum. The 550i is way tempting, and it seems the weird missing sport suspension thing from early '14 builds is resolved. Unless you are best friends with a BMW tech, I wouldn't keep a 7 much past the warranty. Your repair bills are going to be astronomically expensive, and there isn't really a community around them for DIYs like the 5 and 3 series. (Probably because it's expected that if you have the money for a 7, you have the money to pay someone to fix it for you) If I was in your shoes I'd look at selling it and getting a 540i. To me those are pretty much a perfect balance of luxury/comfort and performance without the expensive repair bills and huge buy-in cost.
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Oct 27, 2013 19:28
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Viper_3000 posted:Unless you are best friends with a BMW tech, I wouldn't keep a 7 much past the warranty. Your repair bills are going to be astronomically expensive, and there isn't really a community around them for DIYs like the 5 and 3 series. (Probably because it's expected that if you have the money for a 7, you have the money to pay someone to fix it for you) I am the least handy person I know. Seriously. I can reasonably afford a new five series, and while the seven is probably one of the best cars I will ever drive I would do a new five over a CPO seven, if that makes sense. No sense in getting something older than I already have, and I can see getting a '14 550 now to replace the 750 and in a few years replacing the 08 535 with whatever mrs mango wants. I realize most of this thread is DIY and repairs and used stuff, but I appreciate the thoughts and advice. If recommendation threads weren't verboten I would do one...
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Oct 27, 2013 19:35
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Ultimate Mango posted:I realize most of this thread is DIY and repairs and used stuff, but I appreciate the thoughts and advice. If recommendation threads weren't verboten I would do one... Open-ended recommendation threads are not allowed, but if you have a specific use case and models in mind it generally isn't a problem from what I've seen. I'm the sort of person who would buy & maintain an E38, but if I were looking at "reliable luxury" I'd consider things like the Equus as well. I hate Toyota interiors across their entire model/marque range but I guess Lexus should go on that list as well.
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Oct 27, 2013 19:44
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BlackMK4 posted:Are there any gotchas as far as doing rear pads at home on a LCI 335 diesel? Note that dealerships refuse to do pads without also doing disks, but as long as you keep an eye on the thickness of both, well... As long as it's just pads, it shouldn't be an issue, just, like already mentioned, remember a fresh wear sensor. Also they can't supposedly on paper be removed from the pad once installed, although I've succeeded doing that. I have half a mind to just short-circuit the sensors the next time this problem crops up. I'm enough of a car nerd to check my pads before they wear out, and even if that wasn't the case, only one in four pads are monitored, meaning that the system only works as long as there isn't uneven wear.
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Oct 27, 2013 20:21
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Ultimate Mango posted:I am the least handy person I know. Seriously. I can reasonably afford a new five series, and while the seven is probably one of the best cars I will ever drive I would do a new five over a CPO seven, if that makes sense. No sense in getting something older than I already have, and I can see getting a '14 550 now to replace the 750 and in a few years replacing the 08 535 with whatever mrs mango wants. To be perfectly honest I really dislike almost every brands' super high-end luxury model. For me they seem like a testing ground for tech that they'd like to pass down to other models and are designed as disposable after 5-7 years (generally how long the first owner will own them). I'm with you in the sense that I'd much rather have a reliable and proven new 5 series over a CPO 7 any day of the week. If you're purely looking for luxury, I'd make sure to look outside of BMW like Das Volk suggested. For dead reliable/luxury I think he's on the right track with Lexus and the Equus, I'd maybe add Infinity to that list, but I generally like Nissan's interiors over Toyota's.
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Oct 27, 2013 20:25
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That's just how it is. The 7 series and S class are filled with the latest and greatest technology. That tech then moves down to the next model down, then to the next down. By the time it gets to the 3 series, it should be pretty stable. A 7 series though is not meant to be owned past the warranty.
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Oct 27, 2013 20:36
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I will seek mod approval for a thread since it seems the rules are to go to a mega thread in A/T. Being 6'4" the three series is a too small, but now that the five is a bit bigger it is on my radar. My shirt list is probably still close to a dozen things I need to go drive, plenty of non BMW options...
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Oct 27, 2013 22:18
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Lexus?? drat people, get out of the BMW thread. :germany:
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Oct 27, 2013 22:21
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The new Equus is pretty nice. The one I sat in when we bought the GFs car was extremely comfortable. The E38 is one of the last of the more reliable 7 series. If you didnt notice, most of the electronics filtered all right into the 5 and 3 series pretty quickly and were fairly reliable electronic wise. I think most of the nightmares came from the V12 models and the life time transmission fluid thing. You do see quite a few 740il's on the road today.
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Oct 27, 2013 22:41
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Ultimate Mango posted:I will seek mod approval for a thread since it seems the rules are to go to a mega thread in A/T. Definitely think about a 2014+ 550 then, the F10 is really a small 7 now. If you want to get crazy order some of the individual leather options etc. What about an M5? 
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Oct 27, 2013 22:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I think most of the nightmares came from the V12 models and the life time transmission fluid thing. You do see quite a few 740il's on the road today. And they KNEW those 12s were a problem. A friend got a valve tap at about 1000 miles before his warranty was up. I told him get it to the dealership RIGHT NOW because that was the most expensive noise I've heard in a long time. They didn't even bother to open up the motor. The just put a factory fresh crate motor in it under warranty. The invoice had a 5-digit figure on it that I've blocked from my memory. It was truly a horrifying number.....like, nearly as much as the car was worth at that age. I told him he needed to sell it immediately if not sooner and fortunately he did. (but he bought an A8L.....and then sold that and got Range Rover.....he's going in the wrong direction for reliability)
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Oct 27, 2013 23:00
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More problems, please help so I can go to work tomorrow! I replaced my rear pads and wear sensor and bled the calipers, and now when I try to engage 1st gear there is a pretty loud grinding noise and whole car shakes and rumbles, and what I think is the ABS lamp flickers on an off(the exclamation point in a triangle surrounded by a circular arrow). After examination, the new pads are slightly larger than the old ones, and I think what is going on is they are catching the fairly heavy rust scaling that was left on the rotors where the old pads did not contact them. What is throwing me is the ABS lamp, however. I am going to run out and grab new rotors like I should have done from the start, but can anyone tell me if there is something else that might be causing this? The car idles just fine with no(new...) lamps lit, the problems only arise when I engage the clutch and start turning the wheels.
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Oct 27, 2013 23:10
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 Jack the back up and try to engage first again, what happens?
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Oct 27, 2013 23:18
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Sorry, I should have mentioned that this is happening with the car still in the air and the wheels off.
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Oct 27, 2013 23:19
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Motronic posted:I told him he needed to sell it immediately if not sooner and fortunately he did. (but he bought an A8L.....and then sold that and got Range Rover.....he's going in the wrong direction for reliability) Was it a P38? Or the L322?
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Oct 27, 2013 23:23
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Do you have a file or something to take the scale off?
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Oct 27, 2013 23:54
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Not handy, I'm afraid. The drat rotors need to be replaced anyway, I should have just done them from the beginning. Is it conceivable I could have bumped a wheel speed sensor or something?
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Oct 28, 2013 00:21
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The E38 is one of the last of the more reliable 7 series. If you didnt notice, most of the electronics filtered all right into the 5 and 3 series pretty quickly and were fairly reliable electronic wise. I think most of the nightmares came from the V12 models and the life time transmission fluid thing. You do see quite a few 740il's on the road today. When I buy a place with more parking next year I'm going to find a clean, straight E38 750i, hopefully with the protection package, and really clean it up. I think pre-Bangle BMW peaked with that car and the 8 series.
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Oct 28, 2013 00:45
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The Third Man posted:More problems, please help so I can go to work tomorrow! I replaced my rear pads and wear sensor and bled the calipers, and now when I try to engage 1st gear there is a pretty loud grinding noise and whole car shakes and rumbles, and what I think is the ABS lamp flickers on an off(the exclamation point in a triangle surrounded by a circular arrow). After examination, the new pads are slightly larger than the old ones, and I think what is going on is they are catching the fairly heavy rust scaling that was left on the rotors where the old pads did not contact them. What is throwing me is the ABS lamp, however. I am going to run out and grab new rotors like I should have done from the start, but can anyone tell me if there is something else that might be causing this? The car idles just fine with no(new...) lamps lit, the problems only arise when I engage the clutch and start turning the wheels. Wait, exclamation point with arrow is traction control, isn't it? It's what flashes on and off whenever I'm wailing on it and breaking traction in mine, anyways, no brakes touched. Suspecting you have a larger swept area now, which is hitting scale hard enough to cause a wheel speed differential, which kicks off traction control. Rotors should sort you, and sounds like you need them anyways.
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Oct 28, 2013 00:58
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Das Volk posted:When I buy a place with more parking next year I'm going to find a clean, straight E38 750i, hopefully with the protection package, and really clean it up. I think pre-Bangle BMW peaked with that car and the 8 series. 750iL only came in long wheel base models. I keep seeing clean late 90 models with bad transmissions. I keep kicking around the idea of snagging one and slapping in a 6 speed. After searching, RealOEM actually sells the entire pedal assembly and all the parts needed to make one for around 500 or so. With a junk yard transmission it would be around 1000 or so for the entire conversion.
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Oct 28, 2013 02:13
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I THINK I know the answer to this already, but...I'm looking at a 2008 335i Sedan with 60,000 miles. Very clean car, with one owner and supposedly all the dealership service records. It comes loaded with the Sport, Performance and Winter packages. I love the looks and performance of these cars, but I'm hearing that they have a ton of reliability issues. I know the HPFPs are covered under warranty for 10 years or 120,000 miles, but I also hear there are issues with bad turbochargers. Would it be a bad idea to pick this up with higher mileage and no warranty? Would an extended BMW warranty for 4 year/100k miles be an option for a 2008? I generally only keep my cars for 3-4 years tops as I have a severe case of car ADD; I just don't want something that's going to have a high risk of breaking the bank.
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Oct 28, 2013 02:47
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Auron posted:I THINK I know the answer to this already, but...I'm looking at a 2008 335i Sedan with 60,000 miles. Very clean car, with one owner and supposedly all the dealership service records. It comes loaded with the Sport, Performance and Winter packages. I love the looks and performance of these cars, but I'm hearing that they have a ton of reliability issues. I know the HPFPs are covered under warranty for 10 years or 120,000 miles, but I also hear there are issues with bad turbochargers. Would it be a bad idea to pick this up with higher mileage and no warranty? Would an extended BMW warranty for 4 year/100k miles be an option for a 2008? I generally only keep my cars for 3-4 years tops as I have a severe case of car ADD; I just don't want something that's going to have a high risk of breaking the bank. Unless you have deep pockets or you are handy with a wrench I would say pass.
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Oct 28, 2013 03:25
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What the gently caress have I bought...    So sadly I had to part ways with my Valiant wagon project recently  . It was too much work, too much money, but it's going to a loving home close by. The same day, I refresh my car ad search, and lo behold this little gem popped up. "'85 E30 323i, Extractors to dual 2" straight pipes into X-Force muffler, custom body kit and spoiler, custom respray, Full sound system including AUX/USB and 12" sub woofer, Aftermarket bucket seats, tyres and brake pads are fairly new, recently serviced" Sounds good, but it's in Sydney two hours drive away. The other half and my friend both push me. He'll drive, it's rego'ed so we can drive it back, let's do it! I ring, setup a time, and away we go. We drove down to Sydney, arrived and five minutes later, I've signed the papers and we're away. Something just screamed 'BUY IT!'. So now I am a proud owner of an oversized go-kart. I am not kidding, this thing is low, loud and drives like a slot car. The noise is makes at full ball is absolutely loving mental, which I found out when I decided to give it some and drop to second, which the car took as code for 'Sound like a raped ape bellowing through a megaphone, and try it's best to throw you out the back windscreen'.  I've never had a buttonless shifter before, so it's been great fun manual shifting. The gearbox doesn't seem to care either, as there's no bangs or thumps, and it shifts smoothly no matter where I change it on the dial.It needs a few small things to be completely great, such as the dash dials occasionally going berserk, warning lights stuck on, even though there is nothing actually wrong, dim headlight, missing glovebox and no air box [or filter for that matter], but it runs great. I think adding a K&N pod, changing out the dash with full digital dials, rewiring the stereo and putting some nice new stuff in, as well as a minor touch up in some areas, it'll be fantastic. Thanks to the lower, stiffer shocks, it does get a thump in the rear over bumps, but it rides nicely and handles great. The seats really hug and make me feel like a rally driver, and the pop top works with no leaks or signs of rust streaks, and there is so many M3 logos inside I'll see them in my sleep. Floormats, pedals, ashtray cover, badges, handbrake cover, steering wheel...so much M3! Oh god I'm now a BMW owner oh god oh god what should I do?  
H1KE fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 14:27
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I've been looking into replacing the s2000 next year and so far the most tempting option has been a E90 M3. 08/09's can easily be found for 30-36k (I even found 1 2011 in that range) with ~60k on the clock. My buddy who knows BMW's better than I do said to try for an 09 vs. the 08 as the 08's had a few problems but is there anything I should be aware of on the cars in general? I've only ever owned Honda's and I'm nervous about owning a BMW, especially one that might be out of warranty.
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Oct 28, 2013 14:31
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Cat Army
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The bump in the rear end could be as easy as shock mounts, but could very easily be the rear subframe bushings. Too bad it's an automatic.
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Oct 28, 2013 14:31
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The Third Man posted:More problems, please help so I can go to work tomorrow! I replaced my rear pads and wear sensor and bled the calipers, and now when I try to engage 1st gear there is a pretty loud grinding noise and whole car shakes and rumbles, and what I think is the ABS lamp flickers on an off(the exclamation point in a triangle surrounded by a circular arrow). After examination, the new pads are slightly larger than the old ones, and I think what is going on is they are catching the fairly heavy rust scaling that was left on the rotors where the old pads did not contact them. What is throwing me is the ABS lamp, however. I am going to run out and grab new rotors like I should have done from the start, but can anyone tell me if there is something else that might be causing this? The car idles just fine with no(new...) lamps lit, the problems only arise when I engage the clutch and start turning the wheels. This is your traction control losing it's mind because the front wheels aren't moving and the rears are. If you haven't already purchased the rotors, just turn the traction control off and see if it still does it. The other thing you can do is put wheels on the car. With wheels off the car, the axles can go from 0-155 in around 3 seconds, so that's why traction control is coming down so hard. Adding more rotational mass will help smooth out anything caused by the rust. Rust, unless this is REALLY bad rust won't cause what you're talking about, although it may take a little while to grind off.
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Oct 28, 2013 15:34
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Motronic posted:I told him he needed to sell it immediately if not sooner and fortunately he did. (but he bought an A8L.....and then sold that and got Range Rover.....he's going in the wrong direction for reliability) Some men just want to watch their money pile burn.
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Oct 28, 2013 17:26
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Jealous Cow posted:Pretty rarely get ice. They use sand here on below-freezing days and rarely have to plow. Thanks for the advice! You're better off with something like Pilot Sport A/S, not Alpins. If you get that little snow/ice, you don't need winter tires; all-seasons will be fine (the climate in Oregon is similar to what you described and I've never used actual winter tires on any car I've owned).
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Oct 28, 2013 17:45
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Owner of the company I work for replaced his E63 AMG with an A8L. Must be nice to have that kind of money.
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Oct 28, 2013 17:45
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rscott posted:Owner of the company I work for replaced his E63 AMG with an A8L. Must be nice to have that kind of money. Who cares? Neither one of those cars pertains to this thread  Some people like to piss their money away and others like to save it for .. unknown reasons.
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Oct 28, 2013 18:14
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rscott posted:Owner of the company I work for replaced his E63 AMG with an A8L. Must be nice to have that kind of money. gently caress 'em. I'd be in hell if I was in deep for a new luxury car, didn't have time to get used to it and the tech hadn't been proven over time. I'll let these dudes put the inital miles on 'em, Nature will weed out the weak, and I will be there with cash in hand and knowledge of how to fix that radiator on the worthy steeds that remain after 10-15 years. Some dudes just 'aren't car guys'. I'm not one of them
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Oct 28, 2013 19:06
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Thank you both very much, it sounds like this is exactly what's going on. I went ahead and ordered rotors because I really should have done them in the first place, but once I throw those on I'm betting everything will be running well. I'll disable the TC tonight and test to just to confirm.
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Oct 28, 2013 19:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:750iL only came in long wheel base models. Well of course, that's what the L stands for, but Das Volk said 750i which did also exist. There were about twice as many LWB models as normal ones though so you'll of course see more of those. The 740s are closer to a 50/50 split between LWB and normal (it feels too strange to call an E38 of any kind "SWB").
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Oct 28, 2013 19:40
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Huh? I thought all V12 models came in LWB. Flagship status some other weird thing. Yes, calling E38s short is weird.
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Oct 28, 2013 20:12
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At this point non-iL E38's look weird to me. Gimme the boat. (one with a fresh transmission, though.) If I had infinite money I'd go buy a 750iL Protection E38 and drive Uber a night or two a week just for funs. "Well, not bulletproof, but close enough."
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Oct 28, 2013 20:16
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E38 is the best looking chassis BMW has ever built. And probably will ever build.
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Oct 28, 2013 21:59
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revmoo posted:E38 is the best looking chassis BMW has ever built. And probably will ever build. It's a toss up between the E30, E38, and the E34 for me.
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Oct 28, 2013 22:05
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