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wtftastic posted:At the end of the day, so long as you end up with the desired outcome, its probably not a big deal. So what if its not a formal stay? Your average dog owner just wants something serviceable.
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Oct 23, 2013 09:05
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The Oncoming Storm posted:I realise I'm fighting an uphill battle with her, she's 8 and has never had formal training. Anything that seems to be working even a little...I'm gonna run with it. That link for the silky leash training is great. I've been working on Butterscotch's leash manners for a while and following that has been incredibly helpful. The "OMG, I'm on a walk!!!" behavior is still there for the first 5 minutes or so but she's not nearly as pully as she was.
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Oct 24, 2013 22:38
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Esmerelda posted:I adopted an older pit-mix this past year (she'll be 9 next month) and she didn't really have a reliable sit when we got her and down was just beyond her. Now she sits, lays down, goes to her bed, drops her rope toy and even shakes (though she does that one anytime someone holds a treat because she's equated the two, going to use that to train her to wave maybe.) My dog isn't the smartest or the most biddable creature known to man but she likes cheese and being praised so we kept at it and now we're oddly proud of her. Sometimes. She still thinks the litter box is where the treats are hidden. Aw, that's great to hear! Except the litter box treat thing, ew. I'm kind of relieved we don't have any cats here. She does go sniffing round the bird's cage, but I always tell her "No, Dakota, that bird will gently caress your poo poo up. Come sit." And she sits. Shake is awesome, I love when Dakota does shake. I guess cheese is a big thing with doggies. We took a nice walk outside today and Neighbor Dog came out and glared at her. But I distracted her with cheese and by the time we were done, that dog was gone. Whew! Guess old dogs can learn new tricks. 
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Oct 25, 2013 03:32
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The Oncoming Storm posted:Thank you. Yes. Do this. I am so pulling for you, especially since about half my clients right now are leash reactivity. This seems to happen every single fall, when the light starts getting dimmer and dogs start seeing other dogs in dim light and go insane because they have poor eyesight.
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Oct 25, 2013 06:46
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The Oncoming Storm posted:Guess old dogs can learn new tricks. I'm new here and don't have much cred, but I have a lot of dog experience and I have to say, I think old dogs can actually be easier to train than pups. It's hard to un-train ingrained habits (reactivity in older dogs is a nightmare, for example), but if you're teaching totally new tricks (and all obedience is pretty much a trick to dogs), then you have an advantage with an older dog. Puppies learn quick, sure, but they learn bad habits quick too, and they have the attention span of a gnat. Older dogs often are very keen on rewards (they know the score), and have the attention span and focus that gives you a little more room for error than you have with a puppy. Fear reactivity is the big thing I can think of that is horrible to train out of an older dog. Basic obedience, though? I work with a dog rescue and we get a lot of older dogs, and they're dears who learn super quick for the most part. I actually recommend a friendly-but-untrained older dog to inexperienced adopters over a puppy, because they're so much more trainable. Good luck with your horsie.  So cute, but also sooo fat!
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Oct 25, 2013 07:12
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My large, fixed-since-puppy, 6 year old male poodle still enjoys humping. At the dog park, I pull him off or end play time when it happens. I'm less concerned about his dog park actions since we really don't go all that often. Once he gets humpy, we go home. Its his people humping that drives me crazy. He doesn't bother me or his former dog walker...and never has. But should I bring a gentleman caller in the house or when he met his new dog walker, immediate humpage. I pull him off when it happens, but he's usually trying to go right back to them, until I resort to locking him in another room. Advice on breaking this old habit of his? "Practice sessions" can be difficult to come by, which I've been blaming for my lack of success with this one.
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Oct 28, 2013 02:14
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Kela posted:My large, fixed-since-puppy, 6 year old male poodle still enjoys humping. At the dog park, I pull him off or end play time when it happens. I'm less concerned about his dog park actions since we really don't go all that often. Once he gets humpy, we go home. Humping can be a sign of stress and I'd guess that's what's going on when you have strangers over to the house. Depending on what your dog likes, I would either 1) give him something else to do like a kong or bone, 2) give him a job not involving the person like going to his mat, or 3) give him a job involving the new person, like sitting for treats. For 2 and 3, I would put him away except when you were working on his jobs so he doesn't have a chance to practice bad behavior and work up to him being out longer until he is comfortable/breaks the habit. You could also use a baby gate so he is still present, but has his own space. Dogs are strange about space. Sometimes when nervous they will move toward the thing making them uncomfortable when what they actually want is to be farther away.
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Oct 28, 2013 02:43
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Kiri koli posted:Humping can be a sign of stress and I'd guess that's what's going on when you have strangers over to the house. Depending on what your dog likes, I would either 1) give him something else to do like a kong or bone, 2) give him a job not involving the person like going to his mat, or 3) give him a job involving the new person, like sitting for treats. For 2 and 3, I would put him away except when you were working on his jobs so he doesn't have a chance to practice bad behavior and work up to him being out longer until he is comfortable/breaks the habit. You could also use a baby gate so he is still present, but has his own space. Dogs are strange about space. Sometimes when nervous they will move toward the thing making them uncomfortable when what they actually want is to be farther away. Hey thanks for the reply #1 seems kinda similar to just locking him in another room that I've been doing. Distracting/blocking instead of solving the problem? I guess I'm pretty lucky at this point to have a dog who is generally easy to manage...but now I'm getting to the phase where I just want him to do everything right all of the time. I definitely like idea #2. We do have a semi-established "go to bed" command that I could tighten up for this purpose. I wonder if he didn't hump my first dog walker because he's known her for at least a year and thus...she didn't stress him out. He's an extremely alpha dog in general so I've generally attributed his humping to dominance...although some of my browsing of threads in this forum suggest that the whole alpha concept might have been debunked.
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Oct 28, 2013 03:26
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Dominance theory is for the most part a load of bunk, yes. Humping has nothing to do with dominance. It's really just a behavior they resort to out of stress/anxiety, over-excitement, or for some it's even just part of normal play. I think for some dogs it may even be a self-soothing behavior. Humping only really has one meaning amongst humans, but it's a little different for dogs. My dog is 12 years old and has been neutered for most of his life. But he will still hump other dogs incessantly in certain situations. He does it because he's a little socially awkward and merely gets over-excited when greeting other dogs, sometimes. It's not as bad as it used to be since I've worked on it a little. He's worst in large groups/events where there's a lot going on and he gets overstimulated and his only way of coping is to hump every dog he meets.  He may have even simply learned in early puppyhood that humping was an appropriate way to greet (even though it is actually quite rude). Fortunately he does not hump people, though.
Skizzles fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 03:35
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edit: sorry, mistaken post
Abutiu fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 04:10
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Skizzles posted:Dominance theory is for the most part a load of bunk, yes. Humping has nothing to do with dominance. It's really just a behavior they resort to out of stress/anxiety, over-excitement, or for some it's even just part of normal play. I think for some dogs it may even be a self-soothing behavior. Humping only really has one meaning amongst humans, but it's a little different for dogs. What do you generally do when he does hump? Just pull him off and move on or anything else? On the whole dominance theory being bunk stuff...is there a good thread or read on that somewhere? Reading it here on PI last week was the first I'd ever heard that people were no longer subscribing to it. Curious to know more about it all. Thanks
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Oct 28, 2013 04:51
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Kela posted:#1 seems kinda similar to just locking him in another room that I've been doing. Distracting/blocking instead of solving the problem? It can actually be a solution to the problem. Your dog is likely humping to release tension and try and calm himself. Only, humping is not an effective way to to do that because it is close proximity, the action itself is likely overstimulating, and you have to keep pulling him off. Licking/chewing is also a self-soothing behavior in many dogs, only with several distinct advantages: 1) it can be done at a distance, 2) it's less likely to be overstimulating, 3) it's acceptable behavior so you won't need to punish it and 4) you've added something more rewarding to the mix, so now strangers in the house is a predictor of good things happening. Over time, this could change your dog's attitude about strange people. Whatever technique will be most effective depends on your dog. Some dogs feel much better when they are working, some get overstimulated by work. You could also pair a kong/chew with mat work. When you teach your dog to stay on a mat when people are visiting, you will need to reward heavily. Once you can trust your dog to stay on the mat, you could introduce a long-lasting reward, especially since your guest will probably need some of your attention.
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Oct 28, 2013 13:34
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Kela posted:What do you generally do when he does hump? Just pull him off and move on or anything else? I pay close attention when he's greeting new dogs. If his body language indicates that he's about to get humpy, I call him away (helps to have a really good recall) and praise him for coming to me instead. My dog is pretty praise motivated, though, for others it's not much incentive. But now he will (most of the time) come to me instead of hump when he's overstimulated because I interrupted/prevented the unwanted behavior and reinforced the wanted behavior. Calm praise/petting from me became his alternative. As for the dominance stuff, it can be kind of fuzzy. The original studies done on wolves were not done well - captive, unrelated wolves (so, not really a good example of how they live/function in the wild). Domestication tends sort of "reprogram" animals, so it's understandable dogs would behave/operate differently. I personally think it's pretty unfair and unhelpful to treat them as though they behave like wolves just because they (allegedly) evolved from them. Not that the similarities shouldn't be looked at scientifically, but using them to address behavioral issues is asinine, to me. Wolf packs are really just family units for the most part - breeding pair and offspring. As the offspring mature they disperse and form their own packs. Wild/feral dogs were found to be more the scavenger type who form loose relationships, if any, with other dogs. There's a lot of conflicting information out there and I may be missing something, so if anyone else has something to add/correct, please do. I'm at work so I don't have much time, but try googling Dr. David Mech. He was one of the scientists involved with the original studies and has since recanted his findings. Skizzles fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 15:00
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Update: Dakota is walking much better, even without the Gentle Leader. She pulls a little, but not as hard, and I can snap her out of it with a gentle tug and "Come here." She also looks a little thinner to me, though that could just be me. She's got a hot spot inside her ear, and I noticed the skin was very dry, so we're using aloe leaf on it and the little "oh god that tickles" dance she does after I put it on is just too precious.
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Oct 30, 2013 16:22
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The Oncoming Storm posted:Update: Dakota is walking much better, even without the Gentle Leader. She pulls a little, but not as hard, and I can snap her out of it with a gentle tug and "Come here." That's great. Considering you've only been working at this a week or two, that's a huge improvement. Keep it up!
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Oct 30, 2013 16:27
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I have a one-year-old chintese who's an awesome dog except for the fact that she almost always pees a little whenever she gets excited that someone comes home. She's gotten better about it with the family, but still does it sometimes and almost always does it whenever someone new walks in. She doesn't go into full-on time to pee mode, she just kind of stops moving for a second and pees a little. We've tried ignoring it/her when we get home and it's helped a little with her not getting so excited, but it's been a few months now and she's still doing it on occasion. Any suggestions on how to deal with this? Telling her 'No' doesn't work because then she just gets sad/scared and pees even more, and we don't want to yell at her for being happy that we're home. I've trained her to sit and go on walks without freaking out so it's not like she's out of control or anything. It's just this one thing that she can't seem to break off.
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Nov 19, 2013 23:34
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I think I can see a little bit of a waistline on Dakota. She's getting more walking these days. And now it's snazzy dog coat season so she's a little four-legged fashionista.
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Nov 20, 2013 00:21
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VDay posted:I have a one-year-old chintese who's an awesome dog except for the fact that she almost always pees a little whenever she gets excited that someone comes home. She's gotten better about it with the family, but still does it sometimes and almost always does it whenever someone new walks in. She doesn't go into full-on time to pee mode, she just kind of stops moving for a second and pees a little. We've tried ignoring it/her when we get home and it's helped a little with her not getting so excited, but it's been a few months now and she's still doing it on occasion. The peeing is related to the excitement of you getting home. She likely has little idea that she's doing it, so chastising her will have no effect (or will make it worse, as you found). I would ignore the dog completely when you get home. Don't look at her, don't acknowledge her presence, don't say hi, don't touch, do nothing but carry on with your day. Make yourself a sandwich or take the garbage out or turn on the TV. Whatever you do when you get home. At no point will you make any sort of big deal about her presence. Eventually, when she's calm (could be 1/2 hr or more) you can start acting as you would with her around the house. Feed her, chill with her on the couch, whatever is normal. At no point will you make a point to greet her whatsoever. It's hard to do this, since it feels good when your dog is excited to see you come in, but it's working against you and your carpets right now. Assuming the zero-greeting works and the peeing stops, once you go 6+ months with no excitement at the doors, you can try adding in a greeting again - a calm one. Hopefully by that time her body has forgotten the "pee when you see people" behaviour. Good luck! The Oncoming Storm posted:I think I can see a little bit of a waistline on Dakota. She's getting more walking these days. And now it's snazzy dog coat season so she's a little four-legged fashionista. Good job.
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Nov 20, 2013 01:17
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Back on the topic of humping and being stressed out. Is there something about MY dog that can stress OTHER dogs out to make them all want to hump HIM? Key phrase: It's a him. I know he's a sexy and hyper vizsla and every human usually says "her" first....but he gets humped by an abnormal number of dogs. And these are regulars at the dog park that we watch and they dont hump other dogs that I've seen.
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Nov 20, 2013 01:47
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Any suggestions for a remote shock collar? The one we have is dead as a door nail which was purchased in the early 90's which we've only needed for a couple dogs along the way for 2 weeks at most per each one. In any case, our doberman has found that she looooooves to run after cattle and we need to curb the behavior. Actually, she loves to chase anything now be it our cats which are all natural rodent control to ducks which are insect control to cattle which are tasty livestock. In any case, I digress, what I'm looking for is one that is obviously effective with a vibrate and shock on it so we can vibrate first as a warning so we don't have to shock if at all possible. Also one that doesn't take proprietary batteries would be a huge plus as well since companies that sell remote/collar combo's love to use their own impossible to find in the country batteries.
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Nov 22, 2013 19:10
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Yes. I suggest the non-existent variety.
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Nov 22, 2013 20:54
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keykey posted:Any suggestions for a remote shock collar? The one we have is dead as a door nail which was purchased in the early 90's which we've only needed for a couple dogs along the way for 2 weeks at most per each one. In any case, our doberman has found that she looooooves to run after cattle and we need to curb the behavior. Actually, she loves to chase anything now be it our cats which are all natural rodent control to ducks which are insect control to cattle which are tasty livestock. In any case, I digress, what I'm looking for is one that is obviously effective with a vibrate and shock on it so we can vibrate first as a warning so we don't have to shock if at all possible. Also one that doesn't take proprietary batteries would be a huge plus as well since companies that sell remote/collar combo's love to use their own impossible to find in the country batteries. I agree with Skizzles. There are better ways to teach dogs not to chase stock. It takes more time in the beginning but it creates a more consistently trustworthy dog in my experience (and I have done it both ways, I'm sorry to say).
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Nov 22, 2013 23:38
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I was about to ramble on about how I taught my dog a super solid recall using Premack principle but I get the impression you just want to make her not want to chase things anymore, not have to recall her every time she goes after something. Someone else can probably chime in with better advice specifically for that. I have no experience with stock-breaking. I just know shock collars are not the best idea and something I'd personally prefer to use as a last resort. Do you just live on a farm where you like to have her tag along with you? What's the situation?
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Nov 23, 2013 02:44
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Neige is a moving-thing-chaser and sometimes other dogs get really really bothered by that, so I've generalized a really strong "leave it" that means "no, you cannot chase that dog/horse/child/whatever" in addition to not eating roadkill or stealing my socks. It's taken me a while to do so, but it was well worth the effort.
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Nov 23, 2013 05:56
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Skizzles posted:I was about to ramble on about how I taught my dog a super solid recall using Premack principle but I get the impression you just want to make her not want to chase things anymore, not have to recall her every time she goes after something. Someone else can probably chime in with better advice specifically for that. I have no experience with stock-breaking. I just know shock collars are not the best idea and something I'd personally prefer to use as a last resort. Do you just live on a farm where you like to have her tag along with you? What's the situation? Yeah, knowing the details would help. Basically what's worked for me is a combination of teaching a strong recall and/or leave it command (because let's face it, there will always be some situation that is just too tempting for a dog with any drive), and then teaching the dog what they should be doing instead of chasing. Basically, it's not that different from teaching loose-leash walking in distracting situations. You keep your dog under control and gradually increase distractions while rewarding the dog for ignoring stock and focusing on you. I taught one dog by throwing him into it and just keeping him leashed to my waist until he learned to ignore the horses, but that takes a long time and is obnoxious. It's better to have a few targeted situations where you reward the dog for ignoring the stock. I have a horse that I board and chickens in my yard. The horses were far more difficult because I only bring my dogs with me to the barn a few days a week, and I had to teach the dogs to be quiet while I longe my horse and not to nip at her heels as I canter; the chickens were easy because the dogs saw them all the time. The principles were the same though. And my 3 dogs are cattledogs so strong herding instinct. I also helped a friend with her rottweiler who kept trying to eat her mini goats. He's now reliable off-leash while the goats are out and about. So basically I'm far from expert, but some experience in this area. I will say that I taught my first dog initially with a shock collar, and eventually he wised up and realized that if the collar was off, he wouldn't get punished, so we had to put it on every time we took him out. And then he started getting used to the shocks, and we were having to escalate, but I always checked them on myself first and when it became overwhelmingly painful to me I realized that there had to be better ways. So with some digging I found them and retrained him, and now he's my most reliable dog. He'll even hang back and run to me when he sees other dogs chasing stock, which is the big trigger for my other two (and is where the recall and leave it commands come in). I'm not opposed to shock collars as a last resort or in a handful of working situations where they're used intelligently, but I think they're misused the majority of the time. It seems a shame to resort to inflicting pain when there are other methods available. Shocking my dog when he chased stock is one of the few things I really regret doing, because it was unnecessary and then relatively ineffective to boot. Abutiu fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Nov 23, 2013 |
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Nov 23, 2013 19:47
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Today my wife and I brought home a shelter dog who is 18 months old. He is part Pyrenees / part something else (we are thinking Lab.) He is a very calm dog, but does tend to try to hump things now and again. Fortunately our other dog barked and bared her teeth at him enough times that he kinda got the idea to leave her alone. He wasn't interested in our three cats. He let our two-year old gently lead him around the house by a leash for a minute, until our son got bored. So far, exactly what we wanted in a dog. But, he does have some behavior that we'd like to correct. He clearly enjoys chewing anything he can get his mouth on. We've picked up most of the kid's toys and put our shoes away. But its impossible to keep everything out of his reach at all times. So we'd like him to only chew on the toys we provide for him. He still does have some humping behavior, which is due in part to the fact that he's still young and only recently been fixed. Also, the couch is not his bed despite his repeated attempts to get up onto it. In addition to those, I'd like for him to be able to do basic obedience, like sit, come when called, etc. So, PI, since I really don't know much about training dogs would it be best to sign up for a class, or what?
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Nov 24, 2013 01:08
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Oxford Comma posted:Today my wife and I brought home a shelter dog who is 18 months old. He is part Pyrenees / part something else (we are thinking Lab.) He is a very calm dog, but does tend to try to hump things now and again. Fortunately our other dog barked and bared her teeth at him enough times that he kinda got the idea to leave her alone. He wasn't interested in our three cats. He let our two-year old gently lead him around the house by a leash for a minute, until our son got bored. So far, exactly what we wanted in a dog. Congrats on the new dog. I'd recommend a class for basic obedience if you're not really good with it. You can teach it yourself, but even a $100 6-week class at Petsmart will probably speed things along for you. Teaching a dog to just chew on appropriate toys is basically a combination of management (not letting him have access to inappropriate things) and redirection (giving him and rewarding him for chewing on his toys). That's a pretty common puppy problem so you might want to read the Puppy and New Dog Owner thread for more detail.
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Nov 24, 2013 18:53
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Abutiu posted:Congrats on the new dog. I agree with this. Classes are good for teaching you the basics of how to train a dog. It can be challenging to pick up the correct timing for rewards and such, so having someone to show you is helpful. Just make sure you find classes that aren't too large/chaotic, and that the trainer is using reward-based training rather than force-based. Especially with a large dog that's going to be around children, you want to be using techniques that make the dog want to work for you, rather than feel pressured into it. On that note, once you've picked up the basics yourself, it's good to have your kids practice with the dog too. Having the kids able to ask the dog to sit, lay down etc. will help to teach him manners, (though it sounds like he isn't too bad at the moment - keeping in mind that he's in a new place, and it can take several weeks for a dog to really settle in and any behavioural issues to show up). In regards to the couch problem, I'd be making sure he has his own place to sit, (nice comfy dog bed, own 'dog chair' or whatever). You can then teach a "Go to [place]" command. The way I teach this is: - Start a step or two away from the bed - Lure your dog onto the bed and into the lay down position - Reward the dog as soon as he lies down with a verbal marker, (Good boy, good dog, yes, whatever you want), follow through with the food if he is still laying down - After a few times, start to say "Go to bed" (or whatever) when he's laying down - Repeat, increasing the distance away from the bed gradually You can then start to delay the food reward, building up from 2 to 4 secs and so on, which will make him stay laying down for increasingly longer periods. I also recommend giving them something to do while they're on their bed if they're going to be expected to stay there for a while, like if you're watching TV. Long-lasting chews, bones, kongs etc. are good, anything they don't have to move around to use. You'll also have to prevent access to the couch when you're not around, otherwise he'll learn that the rules are "I'm not allowed on the couch when dad is home." If you're patient and the rules stay consistent, he'll learn them eventually.
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Nov 25, 2013 05:42
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Abutiu posted:I agree with Skizzles. There are better ways to teach dogs not to chase stock. It takes more time in the beginning but it creates a more consistently trustworthy dog in my experience (and I have done it both ways, I'm sorry to say). We want her to not chase anything which includes livestock, joggers, cyclists, people walking their dog, cattle, ducks, cats, anything. We live in the country on 20 acres and we have an invisible fence that I would get home and toss a ball on the other side until she stopped going for it, this took 2 days and she's never left the 20 acres again which worked perfect. The issue was she was running past the entrance/exit and chasing people on the outside, now she's chasing animals inside so I'm curbing that behavior and she'll be fine because she'll still defend everything inside the fenced area, we just don't want her chasing livestock/other animals inside. Like I said, we've had a shock collar in the past for this exact same situation and it was very effective in curbing the behavior. I found a rechargeable unit so it'll arrive shortly and this like the other behavioral problem will also be a non-issue. Other than chasing things, she's a great dog, comes when called, does tricks/etc and generally hangs out being awesome inside or outside the house wherever she wants to be. It's a method we've had to use in the past to curb the behavior which has been 100% effective and unless you live in the country on a farm, you probably don't get our situation.
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Nov 25, 2013 17:33
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keykey posted:We want her to not chase anything which includes livestock, joggers, cyclists, people walking their dog, cattle, ducks, cats, anything. We live in the country on 20 acres and we have an invisible fence that I would get home and toss a ball on the other side until she stopped going for it, this took 2 days and she's never left the 20 acres again which worked perfect. The issue was she was running past the entrance/exit and chasing people on the outside, now she's chasing animals inside so I'm curbing that behavior and she'll be fine because she'll still defend everything inside the fenced area, we just don't want her chasing livestock/other animals inside. Like I said, we've had a shock collar in the past for this exact same situation and it was very effective in curbing the behavior. I found a rechargeable unit so it'll arrive shortly and this like the other behavioral problem will also be a non-issue. Other than chasing things, she's a great dog, comes when called, does tricks/etc and generally hangs out being awesome inside or outside the house wherever she wants to be. It's a method we've had to use in the past to curb the behavior which has been 100% effective and unless you live in the country on a farm, you probably don't get our situation. Then why did you bother posting in here to ask for advice, when apparently you didn't want it and weren't interested in hearing what people have to say? Some of the people who posted in response have dogs on farms/ small farm settings and have offered advice on using something that isn't a shock collar for stock breaking- the same basic principles apply to stopping your dog from chasing people and cars. Also if she has an e-fence type collar on, it might stop her from coming back in if she does leave the yard since in her mental calculus whatever was outside of the fence was worth taking the shock for, but coming back in might not be.
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Nov 25, 2013 18:20
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I didn't ask for advice, I was looking for a product suggestion, specifically for a device that doesn't use proprietary batteries, which was the only thing I could find still, but thank you for your input. To quote my original message. keykey posted:Any suggestions for a remote shock collar?
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Nov 25, 2013 18:46
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keykey posted:I didn't ask for advice, I was looking for a product suggestion, specifically for a device that doesn't use proprietary batteries, which was the only thing I could find still, but thank you for your input. And the product recommendation you got was, "don't get one".
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Nov 25, 2013 19:05
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Yeah, for the record I've spent most of my life on farms. I live in town now but it's only been for the last year and a half. I get your problem, and I still don't think shock collars are a good idea for dealing with it.
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Nov 26, 2013 00:19
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Shock collars are fine if you just want a lazy quick fix and are willing to risk the behavioral fallout. P.S. Way to teach your dog that chasing balls is no longer fun. Skizzles fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 01:12
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Hey talking about shock collars is boring. You know what isn't boring? Talking about tricks. Winter is Foot stall  We had some trouble with the foot stall. Cohen would keep laying down and bracing herself on my knees. But a night or two of using a platform and she's where I wanted her. She'll stand, sit or down on my feet. The next step is to get her to beg while balancing. It's tough since it's such an unstable platform. Burrito! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMEyxznkeLg This was a trick training challenge. She knew how to roll over, and she knew how to hold an object in her mouth, so it didn't take too long to get her consistently doing the two on cue. Bow from down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MsECoCJbhI We already had a down and a scoot backwards while laying down, so I opted to work a bit on her discrimination and got her consistently popping her butt up into a bow while in a down. Pack that dog https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnWs6mX37TE Pretty simple. We got this one in a half-dozen repetitions. I put her bed in the suitcase and cued her in. Pretty soon she was squeezing in instead of standing on top of it. I'll up my criteria a bit in the future so only her head will be sticking out. Next project is what people refer to as a Japanese dog catch. Not my video -- just watch the first 5 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVbSK22gkZE I'd call us about half way there. I'm hoping to have it presentation-worthy in 1-2 weeks. Winter sucks, but yay tricks!
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Nov 26, 2013 01:58
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Burrito is adorable and I've been wanting to teach that to Gary for a while. He doesn't like holding stuff in his mouth though. I've had trouble getting him to 'Hold it' for more than a couple of seconds. After that, he spits it out, (if it's something he doesn't like), or starts playing with it, (moving it around in his mouth, starting to chew it...). Training success to share though: He hates Stay since he doesn't like leaving my general area. Yesterday I got him to wait in the neighbour's driveway for a good few seconds while I walked around to our house, out of sight. Good dawg.
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Nov 26, 2013 03:02
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I think I'm going to teach pack that dog to Abutiu because my boyfriend travels for work a lot and always gets so annoyed with the cats climbing in his suitcase, and I am a terrible girlfriend apparently because I think it will be funny to cue Abutiu to climb in when he leaves the room. I mean, using it to torture him isn't the only reason (she does need a new trick), but that's the main reason. Also Cohen is amazing.
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Nov 26, 2013 04:41
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a life less posted:Pack that dog I love this.  Daisy does not like confined spaces (she will not go down the enclosed staircase or even far into the kitchen). I wonder if working on something like this with her would help her unease with small spaces. She's gained a ton of confidence ever since I moved up here and started working with her.I'm curious, what would you trainers do with a dog that didn't seem to "get" clicker training? My client's dog doesn't seem to be understanding the connection between his behavior and the click all that well. It's like you can look at him and see there is absolutely nothing going on in his head other than "Food. There is food. I like food." Doesn't help his owners slacked off on the homework, but he still should have been doing better than he has, I think. He's a lazy "wait 'til I'm told what to do" kind of lab. Shaping is completely lost on him, which is why I went with luring instead, but even that he seems to have trouble making the connections.
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Nov 26, 2013 05:03
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Skizzles posted:
Is it necessary to use a clicker? If you're not teaching really complex behaviours, verbal markers are just fine and are a lot easier for the dog to understand.
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Nov 26, 2013 05:15
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:28 |
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I think that depends on the dog. But I told them they could use whichever they preferred. In our first session when I was demonstrating hand targeting he seemed to be really catching on, but that may have just been something to do with the clicker being new and novel.
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Nov 26, 2013 17:09
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