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Is there anything I can do to tighten up the finger joints on the Nu ver. Ka? Whoever thought it was a good idea to scale finger articulation down was a maniac who must have had tiny baby hands but the coordination of a concert pianist. In fact, is there any way to tighten up joints in general, without gluing them stuck? Now that I think about it, the skirt armor also needs something to make it hold form better. And there's two pieces on the backpack that I'll probably have to cement into place at some point, since they're downward-facing with no pegs or slots or anything.
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Oct 25, 2013 03:51
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| # ? May 23, 2024 19:31 |
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All your questions can be answered with Pledge Futureshine floor polish.
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Oct 25, 2013 03:55
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It's that good, huh? Well, while I'm on Nu-Ka questions, is there any point to the eyes sticker if this thing's got space for an LED in its body? I'm thinking I made a mistake by putting that on and I was thinking of either opening the head to remove it or cutting the green parts out so I'd still get shining eyes if I decide to buy a couple LEDs for this and future builds.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:07
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This is my opinion, but I personally never use the LEDs since I find them pointless - hence why I just use the eye stickers cause at least then you can always clearly see the eyes. Unless you're intending to keep the LEDs always on(and constantly cough up cash for the batteries), you're better off with the stickers.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:14
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I would love to run some wires and make some sort of solar powered Qi wireless charging through the feet. How cool would that be?
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Oct 25, 2013 04:23
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Or if you are like me and hate stickers (and are a crazy person) you can paint the clear eye bit silver, then paint over it with clear green, then carefully paint around the eyes with black. That way you get the shiny eye effect when light hits them and you don't have to use a sticker that might slip or wrinkle.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:24
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Oblique Angle posted:Or if you are like me and hate stickers (and are a crazy person) you can paint the clear eye bit silver, then paint over it with clear green, then carefully paint around the eyes with black. That way you get the shiny eye effect when light hits them and you don't have to use a sticker that might slip or wrinkle. I do this all the time, but I've always used an airbrush, I've always found handbrushing clear colours to be a comple pain in the rear end.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:37
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Well, the Nu-Ka has silver stickers for the back of all the green panels, but some of them are goddamned impossible to put on. So maybe that silver paint approach might work better on those, where no one is going to see it except from one angle.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:40
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Monaghan posted:I do this all the time, but I've always used an airbrush, I've always found handbrushing clear colours to be a comple pain in the rear end. It's a small enough area that you don't have much to do - with a right sized brush you touch, scoot a millimeter or two, pick up, and you're done.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:50
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The Muffinlord posted:Is there anything I can do to tighten up the finger joints on the Nu ver. Ka? Whoever thought it was a good idea to scale finger articulation down was a maniac who must have had tiny baby hands but the coordination of a concert pianist. The Nu vKa was the first time the Emotion Manipulators (not joking, that's the name) showed up, so they were understandably a little iffy. They're solid as hell once you top coat them (note: when you do this, bend all the fingers to one extreme, coat, bend to the other extreme, coat again) though. Later appearances (like in the MG Jesta or the Sinanju Stein) were a lot better. quote:In fact, is there any way to tighten up joints in general, without gluing them stuck? Topcoat or paint. Future with Shine is indeed a recommended option. quote:And there's two pieces on the backpack that I'll probably have to cement into place at some point, since they're downward-facing with no pegs or slots or anything. DON'T. Those are supposed to be loose, they're part of the Nu vKa's "transformation". Same goes for the skirt armor actually. I cemented mine in place because I was sick of it falling off all the time, and I found out that made it much harder to mess around with the thrusters. The Muffinlord posted:Well, the Nu-Ka has silver stickers for the back of all the green panels, but some of them are goddamned impossible to put on. The trick is to put the edge of the sticker on your knife, and then apply it. Candy coating (silver paint + transparent color) will look a bit better, but not to the extent you should bother with it. Also the Nu vKa's LED honestly doesn't work all that well. Feel free to ignore it. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 05:06
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I remember hearing that once you get the parts on the backpack on just right, they stay on fine. It's just hard to get them in the right position.
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Oct 25, 2013 05:31
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BlitzBlast posted:DON'T. Really? The two shrouds around the thruster banks? Yeesh. Okay. I'm going to have to get a bottle of that future shine stuff, though. What's the best way to apply it? Brush? Spray bottle on the mist setting? Complete immersion? Ingested orally?
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Oct 25, 2013 14:57
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You know, I used to use sharpies to "paint" Gundam's eyes and zeon mono-eyes, but while it's neat to have them be clear, they're really quite hard to see, so I generally just use stickers, and paint mono-eyes a gloss pinkish red and leave off the clear "windshields" that go over the mono eyes so I can see them more clearly (and also move them). The only Zeon suit I have that still has the clear part over its eye is my MG Z'Gok, because 1) it makes sense for an aquatic suit to have that, and 2) I can still see the eye clear as day anyway. When the defining aspect of many mobile suits is a single, solitary camera eye, I like it to be easily visible.
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Oct 25, 2013 15:22
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The Muffinlord posted:I'm going to have to get a bottle of that future shine stuff, though. What's the best way to apply it? You can either handbrush or airbrush it. Pick whichever is more convenient for you.
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Oct 25, 2013 15:56
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BlitzBlast posted:You can either handbrush or airbrush it. Pick whichever is more convenient for you. Cool, thanks to everyone for all the info. I'll definitely have to coat the hands before I lose a finger to the carpet.
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Oct 25, 2013 16:24
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The Muffinlord posted:Cool, thanks to everyone for all the info. I'll definitely have to coat the hands before I lose a finger to the carpet. At carpet, lost fingat. Today I found out my main gunpla connection is going out of business the day before Thanksgiving. 
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Oct 26, 2013 01:49
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buy buy buy! A store near me closed last year and I bought like 12 kits for $200, 8 of them MG. The owners are usually receptive to discounts if you clear out a whole section rather than pick and choose.
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Oct 26, 2013 06:01
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Fauxtool posted:buy buy buy! A store near me closed last year and I bought like 12 kits for $200, 8 of them MG. The owners are usually receptive to discounts if you clear out a whole section rather than pick and choose. She mostly did special order stuff and never kept more than a few HGs on the shelf, all of which I either already have or don't want. I can order from Robot4Less just fine, so getting stuff won't be a problem; I'll just miss her.
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Oct 26, 2013 15:44
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I recently picked up the new 1/144 Wing Gundam and finished putting it together a couple of days ago. I don't know if I'm as  as that video review posted a few pages back (I haven't built enough kits to declare this "the best HG ever"), but it's at the very least the best one I've put together. It was a very easy build, there aren't any really weird or awkward seam lines, and the joints are all surprisingly strong. I'm really impressed with how these joints were done--- it's really easy to slip the arms and legs off (I usually assemble everything, then separate all the major sections for panel lining/decals), however the joints are stiff enough that they'll hold whatever pose you can think of and there's no risk whatsoever of something falling off. I don't paint my kits because  , but this thing really pops even after just panel lining. If you find one, I'd highly recommend it!
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Oct 26, 2013 19:31
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GaoGao PG 00 Raiser revealed:  This should be interesting.
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Oct 27, 2013 16:59
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Ok so I just got the Astray Blue Frame Master Grade and I gotta ask, does anyone else with it have troubles keeping the arms in the sockets? Mine's arms keep popping off at the shoulder connection.
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Oct 29, 2013 23:44
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TARDISman posted:Ok so I just got the Astray Blue Frame Master Grade and I gotta ask, does anyone else with it have troubles keeping the arms in the sockets? Mine's arms keep popping off at the shoulder connection. Are you sure you're pushing them in all the way? I recall that you need to put a bit of force to make sure they "click" in place.
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Oct 29, 2013 23:52
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I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get spare hands for the Nu ver. Ka, do they? I lost a knuckle for good today. Popped out and then when I was trying to put it back on, it made a break for it. My desk is dark plastic and my floor is fairly deep carpet and frankly these hands are goddamn idiotic. Molded three or four-part hands would have been more than sufficient.
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Oct 30, 2013 03:01
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Koto and Hobby Base both make pretty solid hands if you want to try something other than the standard Nu hands. Otherwise you're going to have to get in touch with someone like GG Infinite or something. Someone here probably knows better. had it been just a single part I would've said contact Bandai directly. In other news, the Koto 1/144 Su-47 Berkut As A Giant Robot comes out soon.
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Oct 30, 2013 03:09
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The Muffinlord posted:I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get spare hands for the Nu ver. Ka, do they? If you live in America, GK parts is your man. The Nu vKa's hands cost 1200 yen, and sadly you can not just buy one. You really should see if you can find the piece.'' The Muffinlord posted:frankly these hands are goddamn idiotic. Molded three or four-part hands would have been more than sufficient. Yeah I bitched about this too. But, fact is,  the Emotion Manipulators are loving amazing once you've gotten them coated. The sheer amount of things you can do with them more then makes up for the hassle of building them.  Now if only I was more careful with mine. 
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Oct 30, 2013 04:14
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I could do without the Emotion Manipulators myself, in all their myriad forms (hate 'em on the PGs as well) but there are lots of aftermarket alternatives out there nowadays. I don't suppose anyone here has tried the Bandai-branded hand sets yet? edit: VVVV This does work occasionally. Carpet is the very devil for model-building. My ideal workplace would be an almost completely empty white room. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 05:45
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Take a dustbuster, empty it out, and then vacuum the general area then search the contents. Should turn up.
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Oct 30, 2013 08:19
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BlitzBlast posted:If you live in America, GK parts is your man. The Nu vKa's hands cost 1200 yen, and sadly you can not just buy one. You really should see if you can find the piece.'' You are correct about them being really impressive when they're posed, but the fact is that they leave absolutely no room for error. Actually, this is overall the feeling I get with the Nu ver. Ka; it's super wobbly and stuff like the psychoframe transformation forces you to put a lot of pressure on very specific points to get it to work, especially in the legs. Also, I'm thinking I might just glue the funnels together. One of the display arms broke last night too, and as a backpack they are the flimsiest. Maybe a piece of scotch tape along the back to at least keep them in one set on the backpack.
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Oct 30, 2013 14:44
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The Muffinlord posted:Also, I'm thinking I might just glue the funnels together. One of the display arms broke last night too, and as a backpack they are the flimsiest. Maybe a piece of scotch tape along the back to at least keep them in one set on the backpack. How did the display arm break? The funnels aren't even close to being heavy enough to break the arms. You could just invest in these if you want to have solid fin funnels. Speaking of third-party products:  Daban Model Tallgeese EW confirmed.
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Oct 30, 2013 14:58
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TaurusOxford posted:How did the display arm break? The funnels aren't even close to being heavy enough to break the arms. You could just invest in these if you want to have solid fin funnels. I was bending it at the middle, and the rotating socket for the middle joint snapped in two. I was trying to find a way around the fact that the ball joints on the end pegs almost always guarantee the funnels end up in a horizontal position, but ended up just pulling them all of the stand and setting them aside.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:17
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The Muffinlord posted:You are correct about them being really impressive when they're posed, but the fact is that they leave absolutely no room for error. Well like I said before, this was the first time the hands showed up. On later kits (Sinanju Stein, Jesta, Gundam 3.0) they're much more durable, to the point of actually being kind of hard to get out of the initial position. quote:Actually, this is overall the feeling I get with the Nu ver. Ka; it's super wobbly and stuff like the psychoframe transformation forces you to put a lot of pressure on very specific points to get it to work, especially in the legs. Invoke mode is a pain to get going (though the kit can take it), but I think that was on purpose. The MG Unicorn's transformation requires much less effort to do, and because of that Destroy Mode is super floppy and prone to collapsing. Can't say I'd consider Nu vKa being wobbly though. Thing's stable as hell for me, even with the funnel cape on the back. quote:Also, I'm thinking I might just glue the funnels together. One of the display arms broke last night too, and as a backpack they are the flimsiest. Maybe a piece of scotch tape along the back to at least keep them in one set on the backpack. This is why we recommended the BTF funnel set. The Nu vKa's standard funnels have a frankly terrible connection system, to the point where a lot of people do in fact have to tape them together. Also the display arms are made of clear plastic, so yeah they're pretty fragile. Messing around with them is always a pain in the rear end. EDIT: You can insert the arm that connects into the display base in any way you want, so if you're looking to make your funnels vertical just rotate that arm a bit. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 16:20
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It's also possible that the wobble is my fault somehow. I'm a huge dude with hand tremors and I do my best to compensate but sometimes I can't help being brutish and shaky.
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Oct 30, 2013 18:59
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TaurusOxford posted:
These are just recasts right? I had a chance to look at a knockoff pg strike in the packaging in thailand. I cant speak for the fitment of the parts, but the colors were as good, even better sometimes. The kits were surprisingly smooth as well. Its interesting that a lot of them are only cheap for us because of the exchange rates. The legit kits can cost as much as if we had to spend $900 for our PGs. Knockoffs are closer in price to them what we pay for the real kits. They are still a luxury item to the native residents, but much more affordable. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Oct 31, 2013 |
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Oct 31, 2013 00:15
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I guess Koto's Su-47 got pushed back to November. Oh well, that gives me time for the YF-23.
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Oct 31, 2013 01:38
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What's the general consensus on the Shin Musha MG? I'm thinking of getting that one as a post finals thingy to myself if I can maintain my current grades by the end of the semester.
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Oct 31, 2013 04:53
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The Shin Musha is based on the Gundam vOYW, so it's pretty good. Only real flaw is that the armor inhibits the frame's articulation quite a bit. Also if you're a stickler for detail, supposedly the kit will drive you insane with all the things you can add. Fun fact: the Musha gundams are the only non-1/100 Gundam MGs.
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Oct 31, 2013 05:13
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Fauxtool posted:These are just recasts right? I had a chance to look at a knockoff pg strike in the packaging in thailand. I cant speak for the fitment of the parts, but the colors were as good, even better sometimes. The kits were surprisingly smooth as well. PG Strike has currently only been third-partied by company GHD - NEVER EVER buy GD or GHD brand Gunpla. They are notorious for being bad, and require a lot of work to look "legit".
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Oct 31, 2013 07:15
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When you guys mix colors, do you just eyeball it or do you follow the guides some kits offer for color? I guess it depends on the brand of paint it's shilling and if you have any, but I'm curious.
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Oct 31, 2013 07:26
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mr hobby paints are ones that color match exactly. its much more fun doing custom colors where exact matches dont matter.
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Oct 31, 2013 07:35
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muike posted:When you guys mix colors, do you just eyeball it or do you follow the guides some kits offer for color? I guess it depends on the brand of paint it's shilling and if you have any, but I'm curious. Eyeball. I'm awful at color comparison without a direct reference anyway so it never bothers me.
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Oct 31, 2013 13:05
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