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Motronic posted:If they just slapped whatever condenser out there and it's not matched it could absolutely be causing your problems - including whatever other problems were created by a hamfisted install. Alright thanks for your help. I'll get someone out here to take a look at it. It'll be babby's first major home repair bill 
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Oct 26, 2013 00:18
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Motronic posted:It's also a Goodman, who will sell to ANYONE (which is why they have a less than stellar reputation). That adds up to it having been installed by the lowest bidder. All my (self-installed) poo poo is Goodman  Working OK so far 
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Oct 26, 2013 06:40
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What is the likelihood of a house built around 1984 having insulation with asbestos? I'm having a disagreement with my dad about what kind of insulation our house has. I have conflicting information of when asbestos was phased out but if it was before that time it would support my argument. We've had a house fire and pretty much all of the insulation that was in the attic fell into the living areas when the firefighters pulled down the ceilings. Looking at pictures online what we have looks like cellulose fill. It smells & looks like shredded gray cardboard fluff.
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Oct 26, 2013 11:52
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My girlfriend's tent has a little clear window in one end. The plastic of the window has peeled away and I need to repair it. What kind of glue do I need for this?
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Oct 26, 2013 13:19
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ineptmule posted:My girlfriend's tent has a little clear window in one end. The plastic of the window has peeled away and I need to repair it. What kind of glue do I need for this? Pictures would be helpful but to make a good tent repair you'll need to sew the patch in, then put seam tape over the join.
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Oct 26, 2013 14:04
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Ok thanks. I'll try to get some pictures sorted.
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Oct 26, 2013 14:08
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PainterofCrap posted:All my (self-installed) poo poo is Goodman There is NOTHING wrong with Goodman. My barn/office furnace and AC is Goodman. They are comparable with the midline offerings of the bigger name brands and a great value for the money. But, as I've said quite a few times recently in this thread: comfort, reliability and longevity have a lot more to do with the installer than the equipment. Lennox/Trane/American Standard only sell to dealer networks. You need factory training to even start filling out paperwork to get in those networks. Goodman will sell to ANYONE. What this means is that some plumber with no HVAC experiance trying to pick up a couple bucks on the side doing a job he's not qualified to do is going to be able to buy......that's right: Goodman. So it's a perception issue caused by crappy installers caused by their sales channel. Not a quality issue. Moscow Mule posted:What is the likelihood of a house built around 1984 having insulation with asbestos? I'm having a disagreement with my dad about what kind of insulation our house has. I have conflicting information of when asbestos was phased out but if it was before that time it would support my argument. Stop being cheap and get it tested. Asbestosis is no joke, and going "by looks" isn't worth anyone's health. To answer your question directly: the likelihood is pretty drat high depending on what part of the country you are in. Just because it "looks like" something else can't tell you it doesn't also contain asbestos. This goes especially for loose fill.
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Oct 26, 2013 14:44
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From what I'm aware of the only insulation that contains asbestos is vermiculite and its has a specific look. Im not an expert though and testing would let you know for sure
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Oct 26, 2013 16:59
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Do you have homeowner's insurance? If so, they should be paying to get it tested as part of your fire claim. I write for lead & asbestos testing all the time (of course, working Philadelphia, most of the homes are 100+). Our cutoff for lead testing is 1978. Can't remember how far we go for asbestos, I usually write it on a case-by-case basis. A quick search would seem to indicate that homes built after 1990 are probably asbestos-free. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 18:46
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Motronic posted:There is NOTHING wrong with Goodman. My barn/office furnace and AC is Goodman. Thanks...I made sure it was sized to breathe free with my existing ductwork, got two computations from two different friends in HVAC. I've seen too many units trying to blast tonnage through tiny ducts, slowly cooking the unit (A/K/A Old People Syndrome). Now, the HVAC guys I know had no comments either way, but: do you know of any specific component I should stock up on for a Goodman 95% unit? Besides igniters & maybe a vent fan?
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Oct 26, 2013 18:51
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PainterofCrap posted:Now, the HVAC guys I know had no comments either way, but: do you know of any specific component I should stock up on for a Goodman 95% unit? Besides igniters & maybe a vent fan? I'm not aware of any common failure points on those units. Have your service parts around as you would for any other unit. I'm not sure I'd stock a spare inducer (if that's what you mean by vent fan) due to cost and the the fact that's it's pretty unlikely you'll have a problem with it. In fact, if you do most Goodmans have a little "hand wheel" thing on the back of it that you can spin to get it going if you lose a cap or the motor develops a bad spot. Or is yours not gas? If not, you're talking about the blower motor in the bottom of the cabinet. I wouldn't stock one of those for the same reason......not unless I started hearing it sound like the bearings are running out or other nastiness. But you should be 10 years away from any repairs if it was installed properly and you service it annually.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:12
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Ok, vinyl stick flooring plan. Currently osb subfloor. 1. Glue staple 1/8" water resistant plywood down 2. Clean 3. Put Henry's 1 gallon bond enhaner primer http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-336-1-gal-Bond-Enhancer-Self-Stick-Tile-Primer-12056/202046165#.UmwImxCwXdI 4. Clean 5. Put down peal stick vinyl planks 6. Rent? or roll with cardboard tube fill with concrete Is this a solid plan? Thanks
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Oct 26, 2013 19:24
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Do those little bumpers that you slide onto the bottoms of doors to block draft/noise etc. have a specific name, or are they just "door guards" or whatever?
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Oct 26, 2013 19:34
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C-Euro posted:Do those little bumpers that you slide onto the bottoms of doors to block draft/noise etc. have a specific name, or are they just "door guards" or whatever? The things actually attached to exterior doors for that purpose are called "door sweeps", so maybe those things are as well.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:37
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dwoloz posted:From what I'm aware of the only insulation that contains asbestos is vermiculite and its has a specific look. Im not an expert though and testing would let you know for sure Motronic posted:
Got it. We're going to get it tested. Before he brought this up, I had been in the house about 5 or 6 times since the fire, though I haven't been back since. I was hoping I could ally my fears a little but I'll wait for the results.
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Oct 26, 2013 21:55
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Bathroom moisture question. We moved in a place and over the summer we had no water buildup over the shower. Now entering winter we are noticing a water film on the ceiling after a shower. The fan is just outside the shower. The room is about 65 square feet and the fan is only 50 cfs. Leaving the fan on for 15-20 min dries everything out but I want to avoid mold starting. I plan to get in the attic and make sure I don't have any blockages but I don't think there are since the fan holds up a tissue so suction should be good. My plan is to replace the fan with a 75 or 100 cfs fan. I believe the fan is under sized based on some calculations. Any other ideas or thoughts?
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Oct 27, 2013 02:09
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Moscow Mule posted:Got it. We're going to get it tested. Before he brought this up, I had been in the house about 5 or 6 times since the fire, though I haven't been back since. I was hoping I could ally my fears a little but I'll wait for the results. Asbestos doesn't jump out and bite you. So unless you were kicking things around into a dust cloud and breathing it you're fine. And even if you did breathe some, it's going to take some decent amount of exposure over time in most people to cause any issues. In fact, an accepted abatement in many jurisdictions for many kinds of asbestos is to simply cover it appropriately so it can't be disturbed and dust up, followed by marking where it is so proper precautions can be taken should it need to be opened again. If you've ever been in a theater that was built before 1980 that hasn't had very extensive remodeling you can be guaranteed that the stage curtain is asbestos and gets inspected and treated/coated on a regular basis. Many would be forced to install sprinkler systems if it weren't for them being able to keep their asbestos stage curtain, which would be the financial death of many small town theaters. Bottom line: you're fine. Testing it is for the purpose of making sure you or whoever is is cleaning this place up and salvaging what can be salvaged doesn't get sick from constant exposure over days while physically moving this junk around, as well as knowing if you need special disposal treatment to keep other people unrelated to the incident from becoming sick. Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 02:11
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spwrozek posted:Bathroom moisture question. We moved in a place and over the summer we had no water buildup over the shower. Now entering winter we are noticing a water film on the ceiling after a shower. The fan is just outside the shower. The room is about 65 square feet and the fan is only 50 cfs. Leaving the fan on for 15-20 min dries everything out but I want to avoid mold starting. I plan to get in the attic and make sure I don't have any blockages but I don't think there are since the fan holds up a tissue so suction should be good. My plan is to replace the fan with a 75 or 100 cfs fan. I believe the fan is under sized based on some calculations. Assuming an 8 foot ceiling, that 50 cfm (assuming you didn't mean cfs) fan will change the air in the bathroom every 10 minutes, which sort of jives with your 15-20 minute dry rate. I don't think that's really anything to be concerned about, 6 air changes an hour is sufficient for a bathroom. If you're just annoyed with turning the thing off, replace the switch with a timer, press the 30-minute button and then forget about it. You're not at risk for mold with the ventilation you have now. Going up too much in CFM will add noise, and remove conditioned air from the house using additional energy to heat/cool it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-500-Watt-60-Minute-In-Wall-Digital-Timer-R62-6161T-1LW/202051145#.Um7hAiRkWaY
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Oct 28, 2013 23:12
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Thanks man. Sounds good. And yeah my phone auto corrected that cfs, cfm issue. I will just keep an eye on it and make sure nothing crops up.
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Oct 28, 2013 23:29
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I just moved into a rental in VA from a house in AZ. I setup a huge wooden entertainment center centered around a 65" plasma at the old house, and it is classy as hell. The problem is that all my furniture is pretty much tailored to my old floor plan, so the entertainment center in this new house in VA had to be shoehorned in front of a fireplace when the movers were dropping stuff off. So now that I have my feet under me in the new state, I am ready to address some of the feng shui issues here. I want to uncover the fire place and put my TV above the mantle on a tilt- but there is a huge square hole above the fireplace that was clearly designed for how TVs were shaped back when this house was built. If I am to wall mount above the fire place, I need to build some framework in the hole to support the mount and TV. Would it be safe to use a pair of two by fours or four by fours mounted horizontally across the hole (with appropriate strong ties to merge it to the existing frame), mount the TV wall mount to those two parallel two by fours, and then mount the TV to that? I don't want vertical studs in the gap since this is a rental and I don't feel like having to finish the new studs to match the walls if they were visible underneath the TV. The TV weighs about 90lbs. My secondary plan is to keep the horizontal studs, but gird it with vertical studs spanning the horizontal ones, like a ladder going sideways across the big square hole. I will do this if it turns out the TV mount really needs vertical studs to lean against when supporting the weight of a tilted TV. Otherwise the plan is just two horizontal studs connected by the top and bottom bolts of the TV mount.
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Oct 29, 2013 01:04
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There isn't a particularly appropriate place to put this, but I figured there would be a large amount of house-buffs, so maybe I'll get an answer. Can someone identify the architectural style of my house? It was listed as a Colonial, but that's not particularly descriptive. Maybe it's some weird hodgepodge style, but it would be nice to know what to call it. Here are some old pictures I found online. I can take more if you need them. Front:  Side:  Any ideas? Someone said Cape Cod, but I feel like there are too many details for that, and the second floor has full height ceilings.
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Oct 29, 2013 22:32
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Getting stuff together to make a six foot wooden fence for the backyard, do i use nails or screws to fix all the upright boards to the rails? All the wood is pressure treated.
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Oct 30, 2013 13:36
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Just Another Lurker posted:Getting stuff together to make a six foot wooden fence for the backyard, do i use nails or screws to fix all the upright boards to the rails? I used nails on mine just because it was cheaper. Screws would have been more secure.
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Oct 30, 2013 13:40
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Just Another Lurker posted:Getting stuff together to make a six foot wooden fence for the backyard, do i use nails or screws to fix all the upright boards to the rails? Ring-shank nails would probably be the best medium between cost/time and holding ability. Screws would be fine too because you don't need shear strength, but that's going to be time consuming and more expensive than it has to be.
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Oct 30, 2013 14:54
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Turnquiet posted:I just moved into a rental in VA from a house in AZ. I setup a huge wooden entertainment center centered around a 65" plasma at the old house, and it is classy as hell. The problem is that all my furniture is pretty much tailored to my old floor plan, so the entertainment center in this new house in VA had to be shoehorned in front of a fireplace when the movers were dropping stuff off. This plan sounds OK, as long as you are sure of the connection between your 2x4s and the wall. The TV mount will tie the two 2x4s together structurally, and that'll have plenty of load-bearing capacity for a 90lb TV assuming your span is only 3 or so feet. As you said, just make sure they're tied into the walls well-- you should be able to hang on that without it moving. 4x4s would probably be overkill in this situation. I am assuming you're overlaying the 2x4s across the front of the hole, then bolting through the wide side into a stud in the wall parallel with the room, not using a joist hanger or something inside the hole.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:05
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Just Another Lurker posted:Getting stuff together to make a six foot wooden fence for the backyard, do i use nails or screws to fix all the upright boards to the rails? Any hardware needs to be hot dip galvanized (or epoxy coated like DeckFast screws) or they will rot out because of the pressure treating. I also wouldn't even consider doing a job like that without an air nailer. A finish/trim one should do the job just fine.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:48
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Just Another Lurker posted:Getting stuff together to make a six foot wooden fence for the backyard, do i use nails or screws to fix all the upright boards to the rails? Rent an air nailer or buy one and turn a couple days work into an hour.
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Oct 30, 2013 17:13
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KillHour posted:There isn't a particularly appropriate place to put this, but I figured there would be a large amount of house-buffs, so maybe I'll get an answer. Cape Cod style homes are defined by their simplicity. They're generally just a box with steep pitched gable roofs and no dormers. Your home has pretty much none of those things. Your homes most striking feature is the swooping roof line, which was made popular in Tudor revivals (see: Cotswold Cottage) - However, Tudor style homes are general more ornamental, with half-timbers and stone veneer. So, either the home went through a major external overhaul, or the builders were going for a Bungalow/Craftsman inspired Tudor.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:27
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"Well, the roofline and general look is Storybook. I'd go with that. But it doesn't have the most charming qualities of Storybook. It is missing the overly "folkloric" qualities." - An architect/interior designer Sounds to me like its overall style is "house."
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Oct 30, 2013 20:32
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Just Another Lurker posted:Getting stuff together to make a six foot wooden fence for the backyard, do i use nails or screws to fix all the upright boards to the rails? A lot of votes here for nails, but I don't get that. This is a job for screws. Yeah, screws are more expensive, but you're not looking to buy thousands of the things. 10 pounds of 2" galvanized deck screws will run you like $40. They'll last longer and hold better than any nail. Sure, maybe they'll go in a little slower than running around with a nail gun, but do you want to do it fast, or do you want to do it right? I mean, a drill and a screw takes less than a second to drive in, it's not that much of a hardship. My philosophy - it's a fence, it's going outside. You wouldn't build a deck with nails, so don't build a fence with one either.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:37
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Qwijib0 posted:This plan sounds OK, as long as you are sure of the connection between your 2x4s and the wall. The TV mount will tie the two 2x4s together structurally, and that'll have plenty of load-bearing capacity for a 90lb TV assuming your span is only 3 or so feet. As you said, just make sure they're tied into the walls well-- you should be able to hang on that without it moving. 4x4s would probably be overkill in this situation. I am assuming you're overlaying the 2x4s across the front of the hole, then bolting through the wide side into a stud in the wall parallel with the room, not using a joist hanger or something inside the hole. The original plan was to cut the 2x4 or 4x4s and fit them internally into the hole. Given the width of my TV versus the width of the hole it makes much more sense to put the 2x4s in front of the hole to span it like you said. It would be cheaper too since I wouldn't need to buy ties. I forget the exact width of the hole but the TV is a hair over 58 inches, so I think I have between 8-10 inches to make sure no one can see the bare studs. And I would want to use bolts, not deck screws or anything, right? Let's see if I can use a google hangouts picture to show what I am looking at- 
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Oct 30, 2013 20:38
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Bad Munki posted:"Well, the roofline and general look is Storybook. I'd go with that. But it doesn't have the most charming qualities of Storybook. It is missing the overly "folkloric" qualities." yeah, pretty much this.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:44
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Turnquiet posted:The original plan was to cut the 2x4 or 4x4s and fit them internally into the hole. Given the width of my TV versus the width of the hole it makes much more sense to put the 2x4s in front of the hole to span it like you said. It would be cheaper too since I wouldn't need to buy ties. I forget the exact width of the hole but the TV is a hair over 58 inches, so I think I have between 8-10 inches to make sure no one can see the bare studs. And I would want to use bolts, not deck screws or anything, right? Regarding how to secure the blocking - You don't need to over do it because TVs aren't that heavy, but I secured mine with a couple lag bolts right through into the studs. They're be plenty for holding up a TV.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:47
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Killing Flies posted:Cape Cod style homes are defined by their simplicity. They're generally just a box with steep pitched gable roofs and no dormers. Your home has pretty much none of those things. Your homes most striking feature is the swooping roof line, which was made popular in Tudor revivals (see: Cotswold Cottage) - However, Tudor style homes are general more ornamental, with half-timbers and stone veneer. So, either the home went through a major external overhaul, or the builders were going for a Bungalow/Craftsman inspired Tudor. Bad Munki posted:"Well, the roofline and general look is Storybook. I'd go with that. But it doesn't have the most charming qualities of Storybook. It is missing the overly "folkloric" qualities." These are great, thanks. I was planning on doing some major overhauls in the medium-term future (Completely replacing the siding is one of these), so it's good to know what types of inspirations I should be looking at to make the house not look out of place. I was actually thinking about doing a stone facade for the front, and half-timber is one of my favorite siding types (although wickedly expensive). Definitely going to look to Storybook and Tudor for inspiration, though.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:51
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Killing Flies posted:A lot of votes here for nails, but I don't get that. This is a job for screws. Yeah, screws are more expensive, but you're not looking to buy thousands of the things. 10 pounds of 2" galvanized deck screws will run you like $40. They'll last longer and hold better than any nail. Sure, maybe they'll go in a little slower than running around with a nail gun, but do you want to do it fast, or do you want to do it right? I mean, a drill and a screw takes less than a second to drive in, it's not that much of a hardship. People who aren't familiar with building tend to overbuild. Using screws or even ring shank nails in this situation is exactly that. Look at any production fence sections. You won't find screws, and you also won't find the uprights falling off of them unless the wood has rotted, in which case screws are not going to help either. Screwing the completed panels to the posts? Absolutely use screws.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:57
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Nails are fine. When the fence gets 40 years old like at my house they will all back out and hold for crap. Until then you are good.
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Oct 30, 2013 22:47
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spwrozek posted:Nails are fine. When the fence gets 40 years old like at my house they will all back out and hold for crap. Until then you are good. Don't think i shall be worrying about a fence when i'm 85.  Many thanks for all the replies, if i can get a nailgun i will go with that otherwise its the screws.
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Oct 30, 2013 23:05
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I guess I've just had two houses with lovely fencing then. Nails backing out and boards warping within 1 year.
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Oct 30, 2013 23:12
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Totally TWISTED posted:I guess I've just had two houses with lovely fencing then. Nails backing out and boards warping within 1 year. Sounds like badly seasoned wood.
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Oct 30, 2013 23:21
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I'm not really an expert on lumber, but I kind of thing that if your fence isn't rotting out after 40 years, then you've probably spent so much on the lumber that you won't mind paying a bit extra in time and money to use screws instead of nails.
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Oct 30, 2013 23:27
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