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Hardmounted a RAM X-Grip in my RAV4.  Not a big deal or anything, but it's a nice touch.
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Nov 1, 2013 07:45
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I put LED bulbs in the Cherokee's tail/brake, third brake, reverse, and side maker lights last weekend. Somehow forgot to purchase the turn signal bulbs, and the amber 194s for the front side markers. I did get the front turn signal/park light bulbs but have been too lazy to install. The tail/brake bulbs I purchase off of eBay were about $30, and seem to be up to par. They are definitely brighter in tail mode, and as bright if not slightly brighter than the incandescents in brake mode, and more "red". Not bad. The same seller has another variant that uses a single Cree LED with a projector lens on the end, and an array of Samsung 2030s on the sides for about the same price. I'll try those on another vehicle. I spotted a set of LED headlights in my latest Quadratech catalog, but I'm not up to spending $500 on headlights for my $600 Jeep.
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Nov 1, 2013 23:26
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I got a spare! But not just any spare. It's the wheel and tyre that go with the four on it already. but the bonnet doesn't close. It's pressing on some insulation on one bit but that doesn't seem like enough to cause the extra width. Damnit. 
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Nov 2, 2013 08:18
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 Moved (and drove!) the Chevy for the first time in over a year. Feels good, man.
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Nov 2, 2013 11:27
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Darchangel posted:I put LED bulbs in the Cherokee's tail/brake, third brake, reverse, and side maker lights last weekend. Somehow forgot to purchase the turn signal bulbs, and the amber 194s for the front side markers. I did get the front turn signal/park light bulbs but have been too lazy to install. It may happen that when you swap your blinkers with LED bulbs it will flash very fast like a stroboscope rather than the average rate. This is due to the reduced electricity consumption. There are special LED blinker relais that you can buy which aren't expensive at all, usually around the 15-25 dollar mark.
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Nov 2, 2013 20:43
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Nov 3, 2013 02:28
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Too bad you aren't also going 77.
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Nov 3, 2013 02:40
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Jealous Cow posted:Too bad you aren't also going 77. I'm sure he was trying. I played tetris with my cars today.  Wikipedia said i would have 18 inches left over after lincoln length + subaru width. Wikipedia was wrong. The front bumper is less than an inch from the garage door sensor.  The rear bumper is an inch from the subaru.  And the subaru is an inch from the wall.  Suddenly i have a 3 car garage. 
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Nov 3, 2013 02:49
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Michael Scott posted:I did the same thing at night in the rain, man. It ended up being rack end tie rod, nothing else busted. Lucky break for me.
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Nov 3, 2013 02:51
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Time for an alignment and hope you didn't irreparably bend the suspension.
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Jealous Cow posted:Too bad you aren't also going 77. My car's rated top speed is 68 (36 Awesome HP). I think I was doing quite well 
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Nov 3, 2013 02:54
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Powershift posted:Suddenly i have a 3 car garage. Did you borrow some go-jaks from someone?
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Nov 3, 2013 05:31
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General_Failure posted:I got a spare! But not just any spare. It's the wheel and tyre that go with the four on it already. Isn't that stuff less designed for insulating and more to drop on the engine in case of an engine fire and slow the spread of fire?
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Nov 3, 2013 06:31
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That Lincoln wouldn't fit in my garage no matter how you parked it. The Avalon is a really tight squeeze..
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Nov 3, 2013 09:09
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Mat_Drinks posted:Isn't that stuff less designed for insulating and more to drop on the engine in case of an engine fire and slow the spread of fire? I doubt it. If anything it would speed it up. It's a sandwich of a couple of layers of black something, and lint in the middle. Just lint. Nothing special. I even found some small fabric fragments in it like a bit of ribbon. Someone glued it on there at some point. It blows my mind just how tight they designed everything. It looks like the air cleaner was rubbing on it, so there's only a few mm there. The tyre was stopping it from closing too. Everywhere in it things are just packed in. Anyhow I more or less fixed the spare issue today by cutting away some of the insulation. I feel spammy if I put the pic in my thread and here. I fixed the hatch strut bracket that broke yesterday too with some plug welds. reinforced the other one a bit just because, fixed a couple of older welds that didn't take right last time, and while I was at it also fixed my computer chair and the kids trampoline that I accidentally squashed a little. It was nice afternoon of welding.
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Nov 3, 2013 12:20
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I burned up a clutch pack in the Volvo transmission today. It'll only take about 40-50 ft/lbs of torque before it starts slipping and squealing. I knew it was on its way out, but I planned poorly and don't have a spare already. Luckily there are 6 240s in the yard. Time to go a-hunting!
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Nov 3, 2013 |
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Nov 3, 2013 12:40
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:I'm interested in the follow up on this, I've never thought of using this stuff on plastics like the engine cover Me too, I think I might be getting carried away!    
Root Bear fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Nov 4, 2013 |
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Nov 3, 2013 17:19
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Installed a tonneau and plastidipped my grille yesterday, no pictures though seeing as we got out first good snowfall last night.
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Nov 3, 2013 18:04
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This weekend I decided to I'd better get around to those bits of maintenance that I've been avoiding for a few weeks. Just a few irritating little things like changing the oil, spark plugs and a headlight which had gone out. I am also of course the personification (in this instance) of  . I'm still pretty inexperienced at quite a lot of mechanical know-how, but I decided to give it a try none-the less. In my E34 it would take me perhaps 2 minutes to change a bulb, half of the time would be me figuring out which was out, haha. Unfortunately this is a Japanese car. Yes, I should have looked at how to change a globe first, but I digress.I was tired after only four hours sleep, and leaning over made my back start aching in about two seconds. Stupidly, I got to this point before I realised my mistake, and went for a poke on the internet as to how the poo poo I was supposed to access the rear of the unit:  I was a little irritated, and tired (mainly lovely at myself for not looking properly before I'd started). So I went about it how you should: remove the indicator's bolt from above the headlight where the grill sits, after that it's a simple pull forwards (I still thought I was going to break one of the 15 year old plastic clips) and you can access the side of the headlight unit. That took probably about ten minutes, as I'm pretty nervous about breaking anything, and I'm worried I'll gently caress anything up further than that. I'm also pretty sure the dude that complied my car is a dodgy gently caress: a few of the wires that go to the headlight are wrapped in electrical tape, but non factory looking stuff. ANYWAY. I got the headlight back in, pulled the sump plug and went at the spark plugs. I pulled all six, and most of them were pretty average, I'd hazard a guess that they were all factory parts. Pulling them was a bit a headache, as five seconds into pulling the light my back started aching, and the leads made the entire process take probably twice as long as it would if I were to try it again - trial and error error error error. Of course here is where I hosed up. As I've stated, I was super tired, I was hot, and I was in pain. I was in no way in the mood to be paying attention to the little nuances like which loving lead went to which plug. I hadn't taken notice when I took them off, and I wasn't thinking when I put them back on. (  )This led me to this picture:  I put the engine cover back on, did everything up firm and was feeling pretty alright. You know, those leads were a little confusing but I totally did them right! Wrong. After replacing the sump plug (heard many a story about people not doing this first) I put in the designated five litres, checked the dipstick, then put in another few hundred mL. Then for the victory-start.. it turned over, and right away you could tell something was wrong. Yes, there may have been a bit of oil seep into the spark plug holes while the top was off, but this was way too rough; I had considered getting a WRX before going with the Chaser, and am glad I didn't. It was running on maybe four cylinders. This was it. This was the coup de grâce of the day. I was done. Luckily my friend was willing to pull the leads and put them back on correctly while I cried in the corner, wondering why she doesn't love me. All in all it was a long loving day, but I am extremely glad I actually took the opportunity to do it myself (having said that, I don't have the cash to pay someone else to do it, so it was a rock and a hardplace kind of situation). Next time though, I'm going to buy an oil-filter relocation kit because holy loving poo poo, I literally couldn't reach the oil filter. I still love my 1J 
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Nov 3, 2013 18:38
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I did some wood working in the garage today, so with all the new sawdust around I decided to change the front differential oil on the International. With the floods here a couple of months ago it was basically like a water crossing where I had parked, and I should have done this last month. It was very milky. Now my arms are tired from running the hand pump, and the garage smells like a mix of oil, sulphur and pine.
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Nov 4, 2013 04:44
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Winterised it. 1999 Taurus: New water pump, new heater core, inner and outer tie rods, new coolant reservoir, new idler and tensioner, new oil, and a new battery. 
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Nov 4, 2013 07:47
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Smogged and registered. You know you have a problem when the nozzle jockey knows you by name.
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Nov 4, 2013 19:42
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After a lot of loving around that shouldn't have happened I did this. (the steering wheel)
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Nov 4, 2013 21:55
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General_Failure posted:After a lot of loving around that shouldn't have happened I did this. (the steering wheel) 1,000,000% better  That looks good! Will the center 'spoke' be pointing down?
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Nov 4, 2013 22:05
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Astonishing Wang posted:1,000,000% better I think it looks better too. Pity the leather is crumbling. But it is a very old wheel now. The spoke points down...ish while going straight. It needs an alignment or something. If I can find a Viking ship horn button logo it'll be complete. I took that photo this morning. It's been driven since. So much nicer to drive now. Better arm position and more comfortable wheel. That little extra bit of leverage is appreciated too.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:29
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I washed it inside and out and then listed it for sale to fund a poor automotive decision! Here is to hoping I can sell it for what I am wanting to (if not then I will just keep it) I learned nothing from lurking Rhyno's thread for a year
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Nov 4, 2013 23:20
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I washed it inside and out and then listed it for sale to fund a poor automotive decision! Here is to hoping I can sell it for what I am wanting to (if not then I will just keep it) Enough about the Mazda, tell me more about this.
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Nov 5, 2013 01:39
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Gorillian Dollars posted:It may happen that when you swap your blinkers with LED bulbs it will flash very fast like a stroboscope rather than the average rate. This is due to the reduced electricity consumption. There are special LED blinker relais that you can buy which aren't expensive at all, usually around the 15-25 dollar mark. $14.99 on eBay, or a bit less on SuperBright LEDs, but with $4 shipping. I put the LEDs in the front turn/park on Sunday, and yeah, hyper-flashing ho! Oddly, it's OK on 4-ways. Both modes are handled by a single 5-pin flasher on my Cherokee. Ordering the flasher and some more bulbs tonight. Washed the Jeep on Sunday as well, and tried Bondo's version of Back to Black on the flares, mirrors and door handles. Not bad, but I need to mask off, and get a better (smaller) applicator to try to avoid getting the stuff on the white paint. It seems to come off well enough with a little Windex, but I'd prefer to just not get it on the paint in the first place. Of course, it's supposed to rain the next couple of days.
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Nov 5, 2013 01:59
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Larrymer posted:Enough about the Mazda, tell me more about this. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2809820&perpage=40&pagenumber=468#post421036251 mumblemumblecoolingsystemmumble basically buy something with twice the mileage and twice as old! 1: Sell Mazda 2: buy BMW 3:? 4: profit.
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Nov 5, 2013 02:17
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Not my ride, the parents rides instead. Mom's Avalon has 2 working keyfobs, but with broken cases. Stepshit's F-150 has two very broken keyfobs. Ordered a new case for one of the Avalon keyfobs, and two new keyfobs for the F-150. Oddly, two new aftermarket keyfobs for the F-150 cost less than a replacement case for one Avalon keyfob (a replacement keyfob for the Avalon is about $30 on ebay... used... with just a new case being about  - two brand new fobs for the F-150 were less than $8 shipped).On Wednesday, I get to figure out why the Avalon is bitching about both knock sensors. Darchangel posted:$14.99 on eBay, or a bit less on SuperBright LEDs, but with $4 shipping. The "fast flash" is intended to tell you that you have a failed bulb while driving normally - something in the circuit (either a BCM or a flasher) is looking for the power draw of at least 2 incandescent bulbs. The 4 ways aren't a part of normal daily driving; I'd assume car makers assume that if you're in an accident, one or more lights may be damaged, but you still need working hazards. There's also some resistors that you can plug in with the bulbs to achieve the same effect. Especially useful when you have a car that has the flasher module built into the body control module. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Nov 5, 2013 |
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Nov 5, 2013 09:47
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Guess who has a functioning autodimming mirror that doesn't have Michael J Fox amounts of jitter, matching (working) sunvisors, and a generic diet cola?
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Nov 5, 2013 23:05
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some texas redneck posted:Not my ride, the parents rides instead. Mom's Avalon has 2 working keyfobs, but with broken cases. Stepshit's F-150 has two very broken keyfobs. Alarm and keyless remotes are priced in the most arbitrary, silly fashion ever. New remotes for the sorta-new K9 alarm I bought on eBay, because it came with two remotes, one for each of two different K9 alarms that weren't compatible with this one, cost more than I paid for the alarm. Fortunately, there is a seller on eBay that had used ones, with a new battery, for $11. Alarm is currently in my Cherokee and working great. quote:The "fast flash" is intended to tell you that you have a failed bulb while driving normally - something in the circuit (either a BCM or a flasher) is looking for the power draw of at least 2 incandescent bulbs. The 4 ways aren't a part of normal daily driving; I'd assume car makers assume that if you're in an accident, one or more lights may be damaged, but you still need working hazards. Makes sense. I knew that the fast flash was to tell you a bulb was out, but it just didn't click that the the 4-ways would be exempt. I'm used to the 2 different flashers on my ancient '70 Cutlass, 1 for turn and 1 for 4-ways, for one thing. quote:There's also some resistors that you can plug in with the bulbs to achieve the same effect. Especially useful when you have a car that has the flasher module built into the body control module. Yeah, I'll probably have to use those in my FC RX-7, since the flasher is part of an ECU that handles several other functions as well.
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Nov 6, 2013 00:50
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I punched the engine trying to get the coolant overflow line off of the radiator. My knuckle hurts.
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Nov 6, 2013 05:04
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Phone posted:I punched the engine trying to get the coolant overflow line off of the radiator. My knuckle hurts. That...rarely works.
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Nov 6, 2013 05:05
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Yeah, well my car's working so who's the smart one now?
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Nov 6, 2013 05:13
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Phone posted:Yeah, well my car's working so who's the smart one now? Neither of you?
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Nov 6, 2013 05:15
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Rhyno posted:Neither of you? I'm OK with that.
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Nov 6, 2013 05:16
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The fast flash thing wasn't originally intended to indicate a burnt out bulb - it was just how things worked. Thermal type (bimetallic strip switch with a nichrome heating element wire wrapped around it) two pin flasher modules just flash faster when they have less current draw. Then people got used to the faster flashing meaning they had a bad bulb, so it was added to the appropriate federal motor vehicle safety standard to make sure it'd still work on newer vehicles with electronic flashers and/or LED lighting.
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Nov 6, 2013 05:18
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kastein posted:The fast flash thing wasn't originally intended to indicate a burnt out bulb - it was just how things worked. Thermal type (bimetallic strip switch with a nichrome heating element wire wrapped around it) two pin flasher modules just flash faster when they have less current draw. Then people got used to the faster flashing meaning they had a bad bulb, so it was added to the appropriate federal motor vehicle safety standard to make sure it'd still work on newer vehicles with electronic flashers and/or LED lighting. Say what? I seem to recall my flashers stopping when a bulb was out, because there wasn't enough current draw to heat up the bimetallic element. Didn't you use to have to buy "heavy duty" flashers to keep your blinkers from going to fast when connecting a trailer, or am I just completely remembering this all wrong? Probably that last one.
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Nov 6, 2013 05:45
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Darchangel posted:Say what? I seem to recall my flashers stopping when a bulb was out, because there wasn't enough current draw to heat up the bimetallic element. Didn't you use to have to buy "heavy duty" flashers to keep your blinkers from going to fast when connecting a trailer, or am I just completely remembering this all wrong? It varied from brand to brand, depending on the flasher design they used. Some it had no effect, some it flashed fast, some it just didn't flash.
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Nov 6, 2013 06:03
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Installed my new wheel. Much nicer than the OEM Porsche one.
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Nov 6, 2013 11:57
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