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Does anyone have any experience with epoxying their garage floor, with something like this: http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ ? Difficulty: I'm not terribly handy, I can hang a ceiling fan. This will be on a brand new house/garage.
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Nov 4, 2013 02:26
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neogeo0823 posted:Well, if there's no solution, then that's fine, but I have to try anyway. The Rainbow Vacuum I used had 2 speeds, and the low speed was quiet enough that if you ran it in a corner and had, say, the tv on, you wouldn't really notice it. That's really my goal with this, something quiet and not-really-powerful that'll passively help to clean the air in the room. I think you also need to starting thing about the duty cycle of a vacuum cleaner is not being sufficient to safely use it for what you are suggesting. Nor a shop vac. It's not that there isn't a solution, it's that you're going after the wrong ones and/or there isn't a cheap one. I don't mean to tell you to not try something.....just make sure you know enough to do so safely. You shouldn't be trying to adapt occasional use devices into things you run for 8-10 hours a day unattended and just hope they down burn down your apartment complex.
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Nov 4, 2013 03:09
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nwin posted:What would the plants do? Remove contaminates while looking pretty. http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h110indoorair.html
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Nov 4, 2013 03:15
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neogeo0823 posted:Well, if there's no solution, then that's fine, but I have to try anyway. The Rainbow Vacuum I used had 2 speeds, and the low speed was quiet enough that if you ran it in a corner and had, say, the tv on, you wouldn't really notice it. That's really my goal with this, something quiet and not-really-powerful that'll passively help to clean the air in the room. I don't think you're going wrong. I don't even think it's a bad idea. I think it's gonna require some experimentation (or engineering). I think your MSPaint was too crappy, and people are focusing on that. The exact design of your baffle system is going to be very important to get this thing to work. I think a cylindrical baffle of a small diameter in the center of your water bath would be best. Make it the same diameter as your fan outlet. Blow your air through the water, and exhaust it out the lid of the bucket. That way, you don't need much pressure. The other design of liquid bath air cleaners is to blow through a filter medium of some kind. The central baffle doesn't go all the way to the liquid level, and the filter medium fills the gap, wicks up liquid, and creates more surface area to entrap particles. Maybe have your blower blow down through a sponge (bath poof, etc) or something. That way overall pressure isn't as important and you're not just stalling your fan if you overfill the bucket. You could also just get a K&N filter; they're washable and reusable.
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Nov 4, 2013 04:03
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As far as the mold goes, your best bet is probably to just get on craigslist and find a dehumidifier.
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Nov 4, 2013 04:10
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Bad Munki posted:As far as the mold goes, your best bet is probably to just get on craigslist and find a dehumidifier. Our current plan is to bleach the walls of the bathroom every week, keep the door closed when not in use, and keep the fan on when in use. I know keeping the door closed does not help the problem any, but it's more tolerable to quickly flip the fan switch and let it run for 5 minutes before a shower than it is to smell mold all through the apartment. We do need a dehumidifier in general, so I could potentially look into one of those. babyeatingpsychopath posted:I don't think you're going wrong. I don't even think it's a bad idea. I think it's gonna require some experimentation (or engineering). I think your MSPaint was too crappy, and people are focusing on that. The exact design of your baffle system is going to be very important to get this thing to work. I think a cylindrical baffle of a small diameter in the center of your water bath would be best. Make it the same diameter as your fan outlet. Blow your air through the water, and exhaust it out the lid of the bucket. That way, you don't need much pressure. I did have another idea last night. Imagine a vacuum hose with a special attachment on the end. The attachment consists of a piece of rubber or similar material that normally stays sealed against the opening in the attachment. The end of the hose is lowered into the water, and the seal prevents water from getting in, while letting air out. Maybe something like that would be easier to use with lower static pressure?
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Nov 4, 2013 17:56
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So I have an 80 year old wood table that has a few compromising cracks in the base supports. I was wondering what is the best way to go about strengthening this with compounds. I don't want to put any brackets on it for support, but rather something with which I can fill the gap then sand smooth and paint over.
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Nov 4, 2013 18:43
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neogeo0823 posted:Our current plan is to bleach the walls of the bathroom every week, Use hydrogen peroxide, not chlorine bleach.
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Nov 4, 2013 19:45
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I realize at this point most everyone knows, but I had a friend who recently did this within the last couple years because he was unaware, so I feel compelled to state it clearly since we're talking about bleach: DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA The gasses that are created can literally kill you. I don't mean don't do this in a closed room, or without proper ventilation, I mean do not do it AT ALL EVER unless you want to die painfully.
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Nov 4, 2013 20:21
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Booties posted:So I have an 80 year old wood table that has a few compromising cracks in the base supports. I was wondering what is the best way to go about strengthening this with compounds. I don't want to put any brackets on it for support, but rather something with which I can fill the gap then sand smooth and paint over. Your best bet is wood glue and clamps that you can really crank down (not the stupid squeeze grip ones). If you can't pull it back together with clamps then you probably have to just use wood filler. If you have concerns about the wood coming apart (into 2 pieces) you can drill some holes and pound in some dowels with glue. Then use some filler, sand and stain or paint.
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Nov 4, 2013 20:28
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Booties posted:So I have an 80 year old wood table that has a few compromising cracks in the base supports. I was wondering what is the best way to go about strengthening this with compounds. I don't want to put any brackets on it for support, but rather something with which I can fill the gap then sand smooth and paint over. Picture will help here lots. Is the break with or against the grain? Does the table flex at any of these break points? No compound is really going to strengthen and more for appearance. For the latter I suggest getting at least two and possibly 3 of the little cans of plastic wood that are finish-matched (oak, maple, cherry) Grab the one that matches best, and at least one shade darker. YOu can do test patches to get the mix for match. Also can swirl the darker for grain effect.
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Nov 4, 2013 23:42
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I posted earlier inquiring about the cause of cracking in new paint, I've attached a picture here of what I'm talking about. If you want more content or see what a house shouldn't look like when the painter is done the full gallery can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v873xqn4bbtuv16/366zM63mi3
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Nov 5, 2013 00:25
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The surface wasn't properly prepared and it was put on too thick. That cracking is from shrinkage as massive globs of it dried.
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Nov 5, 2013 01:15
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I see how you can tell that the paint is too thick, how do you tell the surface wasn't prepared properly?
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Nov 5, 2013 01:32
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Slifter posted:I see how you can tell that the paint is too thick, how do you tell the surface wasn't prepared properly? Look at the bottom in your photo. I can see where old paint was roughly scraped/chipped out. It obviously wasn't primed or sanded or you wouldn't see the whole indentation. If he did that on the "easy" spots like a flat how well were the harder spots like the inside corners prepped? Was the siding even cleaned at any point before applying paint? I'm guessing this was done with a scraper and a single coat of paint. That's not how one paints if they want a good looking result that lasts. Good painting is 75% or more about surface prep.
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Nov 5, 2013 15:32
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JPrime posted:Does anyone have any experience with epoxying their garage floor, with something like this: http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ ? Difficulty: I'm not terribly handy, I can hang a ceiling fan. This will be on a brand new house/garage. I haven't done it myself, but I watched a man do it on tv! http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20503913,00.html Much like painting, lots of prep effort required-- but you won't have to be particularly handy to get a good result as long as you put in the time to prepare the surface.
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Nov 5, 2013 16:09
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Motronic posted:Good painting is 75% or more about surface prep. More. Painting in my new flat, I think the time prepping was probably 80 to 85% of the time full stop. More like 90%+ if you count the fact that I was working prep in other rooms whilst coats dried in the first ones. Actually applying paint is dead quick, particularly if you don't need to worry too much about edges and corners.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:11
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neogeo0823 posted:I did have another idea last night. Imagine a vacuum hose with a special attachment on the end. The attachment consists of a piece of rubber or similar material that normally stays sealed against the opening in the attachment. The end of the hose is lowered into the water, and the seal prevents water from getting in, while letting air out. Maybe something like that would be easier to use with lower static pressure? The hydrostatic pressure will be the same against your back-flow valve. You can't beat nature. I question the whole concept that bubbling air through a few inches of water will appreciably filter the air. Without having a diffuser to increase surface area the amount of air actually touching water will be negligible. I think there would have to be better ways to tackle this simple problem of a smelly and dusty apartment.
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Nov 6, 2013 02:49
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Yeah, it's basically: dehumidify, and vacuum/mop more.
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Nov 6, 2013 03:00
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dinozaur posted:The hydrostatic pressure will be the same against your back-flow valve. You can't beat nature. Using a water trap is not exactly a new concept. Nor is using a 5 gallon bucket on the back end of your shop vac to accomplish it. It's one of the easiest forms of particulate/dust control you can do. But it's wasteful (energy wise) for long term use and also messy, which is why it's typically reserved for things like oil soot or evacuating a blast media cabinet where there are no other good options save $400 specialized vacuums with very expensive filters. There are tried and proven plans all over the internet for this type of setup.
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Nov 6, 2013 03:22
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How the gently caress does a headphone amp cost four hundred bucks? Should I try to build my own? I have been trained in soldering and can read a wiring diagram.
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Nov 7, 2013 04:44
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Juice Box Hero posted:How the gently caress does a headphone amp cost four hundred bucks? Should I try to build my own? I have been trained in soldering and can read a wiring diagram. Did you mistakenly stumble across a studio equipment catalog and thought high end equipment was the only choice? Because the little stuff like a Behringer MA400 is like $20. Unless you have some pretty specific/niche needs that should do the job.
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Nov 7, 2013 04:50
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There's a few threads in IYG where you might get more help, but there are lots of good DIY headphone amp designs that can be done on the cheap if you're actually asking for a project. For examples, a CMOY for a few bucks and an Altoids tin, to the more high-design Objective2 that can be kit-built for under $100.
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Nov 7, 2013 06:36
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Motronic posted:Did you mistakenly stumble across a studio equipment catalog and thought high end equipment was the only choice? Because the little stuff like a Behringer MA400 is like $20. Unless you have some pretty specific/niche needs that should do the job. Thanks! Just seems like they go from 20 to hundreds really quickly and I don't understand why. I'll probably get the one you mentioned.
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Nov 7, 2013 12:47
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Juice Box Hero posted:Thanks! Just seems like they go from 20 to hundreds really quickly and I don't understand why. I'll probably get the one you mentioned. Parts Express has a really good selection of headphone amps if you don't want to build your own.
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Nov 7, 2013 14:58
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Juice Box Hero posted:Thanks! Just seems like they go from 20 to hundreds really quickly and I don't understand why. I'll probably get the one you mentioned. Because a headphone amp that is good enough to work fine is worth $20. Something that's been filtered within an inch of it's life, has slightly better quality, a bit more amplification for pushing over loud studios into semi-deaf ears with better build quality and possibly rack mount that is pretty much only sold to studios is a specialty piece that is produced in low quantity therefore the 50%-100% increase in parts cost translates into a huge premium. Add to that a bunch of segments of society that think studio equipment is "bling" and you get the price tag. So....the real question is do you actually need anything more than what a $20 one does?
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Nov 7, 2013 15:14
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I have a question about the deadbolt lock in my apartment. It's a Schlage, so I believe that's a quality deadbolt. It works fine, the only thing I've noticed is over the years the deadbolt knob on the inside of the apartment seems to have a bit of play and wobble. I can wiggle it around the axis of rotation maybe 20 to 30 degrees, and it also has play that is "perpendicular" to the axis it rotates around. It moves the bolt in and out without any problem, but my concern is if the knob is going to break off. Is it common for a deadbolt knob to have this much play? Is it common for these knobs to break off? If they break off, can I still lock the door from the outside? It's probably not a huge deal since my apartment complex has two on-staff repairmen who could probably replace the deadbolt entirely in a matter of minutes if need be. But it still worries me a little. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 23:40
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Three-Phase posted:I have a question about the deadbolt lock in my apartment. It's a Schlage, so I believe that's a quality deadbolt. The bog-standard schlage sc1-keyed deadbolt can have quite a bit of play on the interior knob. The ones at my parents' house have (for at least 20 years) had looseness between the edge of each outward motion and the center where it starts moving the deadbolt that hasn't seemed to get worse. I wouldn't say something like 20 degrees would be out of the ordinary.
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Nov 7, 2013 23:58
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I don't know if there's a general purpose hacking thread, but I figure I will start here. I have this bluetoth speaker. It serves my purpose well enough, but the bluetooth range on it is ridiculously short. I know nothing about bluetooth, but I assume the chip is off the shelf, and the range limitation is due to the shielding in the speaker, or a poorly designed antenna or something. Of course, it could be that they somehow underpowered the bluetooth radio. I'm considering taking it apart and seeing if I can figure out a way to make the range better. Is this crazy? I'm hoping there's an antenna inside that I can do SOMETHING with to make it better. As it is, the range is about 3 feet, but less if there's something in between the two devices. Help me out, hobbyists. Am I just going to destroy my speaker?
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Nov 8, 2013 16:08
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I don't know if there's a general purpose hacking thread, but I figure I will start here. I have this bluetoth speaker. It serves my purpose well enough, but the bluetooth range on it is ridiculously short. I know nothing about bluetooth, but I assume the chip is off the shelf, and the range limitation is due to the shielding in the speaker, or a poorly designed antenna or something. Of course, it could be that they somehow underpowered the bluetooth radio. I'm considering taking it apart and seeing if I can figure out a way to make the range better. Is this crazy? I'm hoping there's an antenna inside that I can do SOMETHING with to make it better. As it is, the range is about 3 feet, but less if there's something in between the two devices. Help me out, hobbyists. Am I just going to destroy my speaker? The antenna should be about 6.25 cm. If it's not integrated into the board and you can measure it, if it's too short lengthening it to the proper size would be an easy way to possibly improve performance.
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Nov 9, 2013 15:04
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Juice Box Hero posted:The antenna should be about 6.25 cm. If it's not integrated into the board and you can measure it, if it's too short lengthening it to the proper size would be an easy way to possibly improve performance. Thanks. I took off the rubber jacket and found what I assume is the antenna. It's a copper coil that's all smashed together. Stretching it out some seems to have improved the range, of course it could just be because the jacket is off (but I assume the former?). Here's a picture of it before stretching. If I were to just straighten it (or at least make sure it isn't touching itself in the spirals), does that figure to help? I'm not familiar with how antennae work. 
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Nov 9, 2013 15:30
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I don't know how to help you with your problem, but that thing looks terrified.
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Nov 9, 2013 15:37
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Thanks. I took off the rubber jacket and found what I assume is the antenna. It's a copper coil that's all smashed together. Stretching it out some seems to have improved the range, of course it could just be because the jacket is off (but I assume the former?). That doesn't look like what I was expecting, though I'm no expert. I'm assuming it isn't insulated, so stretching individual coils away from it could serve to lengthen it, I think. Is Bluetooth the only type of signal this thing receives or does it do radio too?
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Nov 9, 2013 15:48
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Juice Box Hero posted:That doesn't look like what I was expecting, though I'm no expert. I'm assuming it isn't insulated, so stretching individual coils away from it could serve to lengthen it, I think. Is Bluetooth the only type of signal this thing receives or does it do radio too? Bluetooth only. I've straightened it out and wrapped it around the device and taped it into place and replaced the rubber jacket. Range seems improved by a fair amount, but I'll wait until I take it out and see if it works better in the field. Thanks! note: Uncoiled it is definitely longer than 6.25 cm.
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Nov 9, 2013 15:58
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Bluetooth only. I've straightened it out and wrapped it around the device and taped it into place and replaced the rubber jacket. Range seems improved by a fair amount, but I'll wait until I take it out and see if it works better in the field. Thanks! 6.25 cm is the half wavelength for the frequency on which Bluetooth operates. Making an antenna equal in length to the half wavelength of the frequency it's supposed to use maximizes its ability to receive that frequency. The antenna may have been coiled to reduce directionality. If it's much longer than 6.25 cm now you may see further improvement by cutting it back. If it's working to your satisfaction now though, congratulations!
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Nov 9, 2013 16:13
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Juice Box Hero posted:6.25 cm is the half wavelength for the frequency on which Bluetooth operates. Making an antenna equal in length to the half wavelength of the frequency it's supposed to use maximizes its ability to receive that frequency. The antenna may have been coiled to reduce directionality. If it's much longer than 6.25 cm now you may see further improvement by cutting it back. If it's working to your satisfaction now though, congratulations! It's about 3 times that uncoiled. But theoretically cutting it back should improve the reception?
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Nov 9, 2013 17:16
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Anyone have good recommendations for where to buy LED Christmas lights in bulk? Amazon and all the usual suspects sell basic strings of lights but I'm looking for better options.
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Nov 9, 2013 18:37
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:It's about 3 times that uncoiled. But theoretically cutting it back should improve the reception? I believe so, if you want it ideal. Having it close to a whole-number-multiple (12.5, 18.75 cm) of that length works too, I believe. I think if it's a non insulated coil with the wires all touching, you would want to measure the length of the coil, not the length of the wire of which it is comprised. Like I said I'm not an expert. I work with RF but I'm not formally educated in building antennas. Short answer, Yes, cutting it should make it better. One other sort of related thing is that back in the 00's when the FCC started heavily regulating those in-car FM transmitters, the regulation limited the radiated power. Instead of redesigning the more complicated components, most manufacturers just cut the antennas super short. You're supposed to be able to vastly improve your transmitter's performance by extending the little nub of an antenna hidden inside to an appropriate length. theres a will theres moe fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 19:55
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Dumb question: I'm installing a range hood and need to cut a 6" hole in the roof. The roof is pitched, about 3/12. I have access from below as the drywall is not up yet. How would I go about cutting this? I can use a plumb bob to find the center of the hole on the underside of the roof, but I can't just cut the hole based on that center point because the pitch would throw it off, no? I'm think I'm describing this poorly but I hope you get what I'm saying- thanks.
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Nov 10, 2013 00:51
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I have a really basic question about drilling into drywall. Let's say I'm hanging up a a rack and you're drilling the holes so you can hang the thing up. Are you supposed to drill into the wooden studs behind the drywall, or avoid them?
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Nov 10, 2013 02:03
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