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kastein posted:Actually that is an AW4 shifter. I must have been thrown off by the lack of a knob.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:35
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kastein posted:So uh... diesel people. Is this motor healthy sounding for a ~60 year old multifuel/diesel engine design, or do I have rod knock? I can't tell worth a drat, I'm used to gas engines. To me, your engine just sounds like an old diesel. For some comparison here is a 30 year old diesel engine which has sat for a month or so since it was last driven - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtNmQcJLUfY. It sounds just as rattly as it warms up. Can you find someone who will give you breakdown/recovery cover on your truck before you drive it on the road? Before I was brave enough to go out in my ambulance I found a campervan/RV breakdown service who would cover it and promised me that they will not laugh at me if called them out and would recover it on a flatbed if required.
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Oct 27, 2013 18:13
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The fact that yours has the same sort of once-per-revolution "knock" is quite heartening. Mine does it at any temperature no matter how recently I've driven it though, in fact as I recall it does it even while running right after getting off the highway. Probably fine, I'm going to just run it for now I guess. Today I'll probably ignore the big truck though because it's time to throw the new exhaust on my blue MJ. At least it would be if I could find the cat I bought for it... I think that may have ended up on the red XJ or the white MJ when I needed one in pinch, if I can't find it in a couple minutes I'll buy another. e: none of this happened because they wanted my left arm for a cat for it at the parts store! I guess I'll cut the old exhaust off at least though, it's beyond hosed. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 18:38
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I Hate  Previous  Owners  So  loving  Much!  YOU TOO YOU lovely PIECE OF gently caress   Backstory: Someone obviously monkeyfucked the poo poo out of this exhaust, apparently over the course of several years. I have so many questions. Where is the worm drive portion of that hoseclamp? Why is it under a patch? What were they thinking? Which of their auntie-sisters did their father impregnate? Where are they so I can go and wire their brake lights to their horn and their starter motor to the left blinker in the dead of night? They broke one of the pressed-in studs in the exhaust manifold flange that holds that clamp/yoke in the first picture up, clamping the flared end of the downpipe against a donut shaped graphite packing on the manifold flange. Rather than fix it right they simply held the yoke/clamp in the right spot and booger welded a bunch of snot balls all over the end of the stud so it couldn't go through the hole anymore, then put a nylock (sure, that's gonna do you a fat lot of good on an EXHAUST MANIFOLD, dumbass) nut on the other stud and cranked it way down. Then attempted to weld the clamp/yoke to the packing (wtf?) and to the manifold flange to make sure it stayed there. Fortunately none of the welds were worth a drat. However this still left me with a loving busted off stud covered in snot welds to try and press out of a manifold between a frame rail and an oil sump. The end result was a lot of swearing, a lot of 4lb BFH usage, a lot more swearing, and then a ghetto stack of sockets and a tie rod end removal tool to force the stud to break free from its rust grave. It came out but not before the hammer (it required a lot more hammering after breaking it free) glanced off the end of the stud and broke the O2 sensor in half. So now I have a rusted-in-place O2 sensor to remove and replace... bets on whether (1) none (2) some (3) most or (4) all of the threads remain behind in the manifold?  Oh, and the O2 sensor is only $27 from rockauto. I guess it goes on the list...  I've half a mind to buy a new O2 sensor bung at the parts store for $5 and weld it onto the brand new downpipe I got for it rather than even attempting to remove the remaining half of the O2 sensor in the manifold. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 22:12
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HAHA I WIN YOU loving PIECE OF poo poo   Came out easily with a 21mm socket. I put a 22mm / 7/8" box wrench on it first, it rounded off. Feared the worst, got the oxy/ace torch set outside and torch tuned up, slid a 21mm socket on the sensor (you know it's gonna be bad when the next size down socket slides right on because so much metal has rusted off...) and went to get the ratchet turning the right direction and clocked to a comfortable position so I could wail on it the second I got the manifold nice and hot. Then it just came right out. I'm not sure what I did to deserve this kind of luck but I'll take what I can get. So at this point I just need a new sensor and either a catalytic converter or the appropriate flange and a piece of exhaust tubing to make myself a test pipe. Probably the latter. I don't feel too bad about it really because this whole drivetrain is getting torn out and replaced with a V8 soonish which will probably require a full custom exhaust system including cat(s), so this is basically all temporary to make it pass safety inspection and run around town a bit until snow flies.
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Oct 27, 2013 23:17
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Well the O2 sensor ended up being only a $35 mistake. $311 blown on rockauto... for an assortment of crap that all 3 of my small jeeps need, so I can't really complain much. And god damnit I already remembered one thing I forgot to put on the order. An exhaust manifold donut gasket/packing Only four minutes from order submission to remembering the first item I forgot I needed! Oh well, the original didn't look like it was in that bad shape, it's temporary, I'll tighten the bolts more than usual. gently caress it.
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Nov 5, 2013 04:59
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kastein posted:Well the O2 sensor ended up being only a $35 mistake. Can you email them? They'd probably amend the order.
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Nov 5, 2013 06:32
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Just use a whole tube of red RTV what could go wrong
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Nov 5, 2013 14:02
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Slow is Fast posted:Just use a whole tube of red RTV what could go wrong What's the difference between Black RTV and Red RTV?
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Nov 5, 2013 14:24
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daslog posted:What's the difference between Black RTV and Red RTV? Red RTV comes apart. Black you have to use oxy acetylene to get it to separate
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Nov 5, 2013 14:38
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So he should use the black then. Or just weld it.
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Nov 5, 2013 15:11
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I use black RTV on my diff cover and it comes right off with a razorblade.
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Nov 5, 2013 18:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:I use black RTV on my diff cover and it comes right off with a razorblade. The two piece intake mainifold we run on the poopstang will not separate unless we heat it. Once the two halves are apart we can get it off with a knife but until then it just goes nope gently caress youuuuu
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Nov 5, 2013 18:27
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Slow is Fast posted:The two piece intake mainifold we run on the poopstang will not separate unless we heat it. Once the two halves are apart we can get it off with a knife but until then it just goes nope gently caress youuuuu Iirc there are two kinds of black rtv. Oil resistant and omg rubber welding.
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Nov 5, 2013 18:29
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I've got the best exhaust solution:
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Nov 5, 2013 18:47
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All of you have some sort of brain damage and I am going to not use any of the subaru approved methods of repairing exhaust systems, sorry. edit: and that is neither a narrangansett nor a PBR can so I don't have the proper materials on hand. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Nov 5, 2013 |
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Nov 5, 2013 19:15
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Oh hey Kastein, it turns out I'm kinda acquainted with your brother. He posted some vines on Twitter of a five ton truck going through the woods last week, I asked him about it, he said it was at his brothers' in Massachusetts, and I put the pieces together. That truck continues to amaze.
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Nov 7, 2013 07:39
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He was telling me about that, funny how stuff like that happens. That video was actually taken in my driveway/the dirt road leading to it. I'm pretty sure the 7 degrees of Kevin Bacon is more like 2-3 degrees on the internet.
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Nov 7, 2013 12:43
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I didn't know Ken had a brother, but I worked with his cousin.
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Nov 7, 2013 15:24
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I love working at an automotive/aerospace company... the shop just went through the old inventory shelves from the last prototype build and piled all the stuff they deemed no longer necessary on a pair of tables, then told everyone to grab whatever they wanted before it goes in the recycling dumpster. So I ended up with a pair of Flaming River and Borgeson steering shaft ujoints (one of them suitable for building that steering intermediate shaft I was blathering about a few pages ago, the other as a ujoint donor, since the one I am using has removable/replaceable ujoints just like I was looking for!) two feet of fuel filler hose and a Jegs adjustable brake proportioning valve I've been thinking about buying for a year, all for free. Sadly one of my coworkers beat me to the wilwood dual brake master cylinder + pedal setup, but I know he'll put it to good use so I aint even mad. Also, fixed the front swaybar links and bushings, front shocks, front bumpstops, and one e-brake cable on the crapcan Cherokee yesterday. And discovered the exhaust is even more hosed than I thought it was, so I'm ordering more parts for it and the drat thing is gonna end up with a brand new exhaust stem to stern except for the manifold and cat. Hopefully this one will last more than a year before I shred it again. It handles much better with the new frontend parts, now it just needs rear uniframe repair, rear bumpstops, exhaust, the manual transmission swap, carpet, air conditioning, LSD install, and new rear suspension and it'll be good to go for another 10 years.
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Nov 15, 2013 23:35
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Hey rear end in a top hat post pictures and video of your new toy k thx.
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Dec 6, 2013 18:09
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Military-Shelter-Truck-Mounted-S-250-G-Used-/180431818100 Figure between you and Doccer I should send the link in both threads. God knows what you crazy fucks will do next.
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Dec 6, 2013 20:27
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Hopefully get my dumb vertical mill inside  Ignore the goony commentary, a friend of mine was giving me crap on facebook and this was my reply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XShI9rL43B0 Got the vertical mill that Disgruntled Bovine's employer was shitcanning, hauled it home with my shittiest jeep, then picked it up off the trailer with the M54A2 and crane. Currently scheming up ways to get it inside the house. It's down a steep hill, around a few corners, and then around a few more corners on steep hills, so it either needs to come apart and get hauled down one section at a time in the comanche, or I need to think up another method.
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Dec 6, 2013 21:40
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So where did you want me to drop this stupid vertical mill again? I have other deliveries to make and your dock sucks... Leaf springs with a gvwr of 39000lbs+ (each leaf is 1/2" thick and there are like 8-12 per pack) and it articulates like that because it has the best leaf spring suspension design ever. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 03:18
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Today I fixed the pipes to the washing machine supply valves, and added a set of shutoff valves for that section of the system that should have had a shutoff in the first place. Decided to do a series of howto videos on sweating copper since I needed to do the plumbing either way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHmD_-oaMsU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hidaOsk2Lo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNpcag1rY-o Result:  click for big and blurry instead of small and blurry! Edit: wait, what the gently caress? I thought I posted this in my DIY house thread. Apparently I was really tired when I posted this last night. I will have to do some stuff to the jeeps and make a proper AI post later today. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 07:56
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"later today" turned into my dad calling me in a panic because the other side of the frame on his Ranger had cracked in half because meineke loving SUCKS AND IS STAFFED BY MORONS so two weekends got blown putting that shitshow back together. This weekend is mostly toast due to christmas with the family, but I succeeded in resuscitating the blue 88 Comanche enough to drive it up to the top of my driveway. It needs new front shocks, springs, gotta throw the rest of the exhaust on, needs new headlights and front corner marker lamps, new battery would be nice, new radiator would be nice too... but I am probably going to fix the lights up, slap a random $30 battery from the junkyard in, bolt the exhaust on, then maybe put a used radiator off my stockpile in and get it a sticker. Once it's back together and legal I can start on the 5 speed swap in the cherokee, since I'll have a backup DD again. No pictures since it's dark as hell. I'll try and remember to take some tomorrow but it looks the same as it always did. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Aug 7, 2018 |
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Dec 28, 2013 23:33
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kastein posted:So where did you want me to drop this stupid vertical mill again? I have other deliveries to make and your dock sucks... Now that's flexin.
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Dec 28, 2013 23:35
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InterceptorV8 posted:Now that's flexin. here's why. I have the same suspension design this guy is building for his badass 6x6 M715 project (well worth a read-through...) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/348576-my-6x6-m715-project-4.html#80 Here's some pics of suspension flex testing (they continue on the next page) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/348576-my-6x6-m715-project-4.html#98 I forget the technical term for it, but the leaf springs are mounted to the frame instead of the axle(s), on greased pivot points. Each rides on top of the axle housings on forged steel pads that are bolted onto the housings. The axles are located using 3 "dogbones" or rubber bushed torque arms each in your standard "3-link" solid axle suspension configuration, as you can see from the pics in the first link. So aside from the slight binding of the rubber bushings in the torque arm ends (it's a 19,500lb truck empty, so this isn't much of an issue) there is nothing keeping the rear suspension from conforming fully to the terrain and placing equal loads on all 4 rear suspension corners, within certain limits of course. This results in impressive terrain capabilities and traction for a heavy cargo truck but does make for a loving lovely ride, especially on bumpy or jointed cement highways. When you first look at that pic it doesn't seem all that impressive flex wise until you realize those are 42" tires. The rearmost tire pair there is drooping about 18-20" from ride height and I didn't notice anything backing it up in to that "parking space". TL;DR: everyone should buy one! They cost less than a 10 year old BMW.
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Dec 28, 2013 23:49
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kastein posted:TL;DR: everyone should buy one! They cost less than a 10 year old BMW. For about the time it costs to drive out the first tank of fuel. The mileage in these is, well, astonishing.
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Dec 29, 2013 01:54
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EightBit posted:For about the time it costs to drive out the first tank of fuel. The mileage in these is, well, astonishing. I daily drive a 454 that gets worse mileage than my semi truck. I might see an improvement.
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Dec 29, 2013 05:22
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EightBit posted:For about the time it costs to drive out the first tank of fuel. The mileage in these is, well, astonishing. You can also load them to bear and their fuel milage only shrugs a bit.
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Dec 29, 2013 05:44
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We need to dump another tank into the M923, Look at about $300 bucks. Woo!
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Dec 29, 2013 05:49
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Isn't that great? They're expensive to feed (if you don't feed them waste oil) but so worth it. Some moron closed the hood on the blue comanche all the way last night, I don't know what he was thinking but I'd really like a word with him about it. Because now the god drat thing won't open and even taking some liberties with a crowbar isn't getting me anywhere. Now I understand the frustration of the previous owner, who left crowbar marks on the fender and hood for exactly the same reason, which I previously grumbled about. Also, a ground somewhere in the lighting system has shuffled off this mortal coil and now every light's state depends on the phase of the moon and also some random combination of other lights' respective states. The hood being jammed shut is somewhat affecting my ability to debug this. Also the fact that the only 88 FSM with wiring diagrams I can find is the completely inaccurate, useless one that's passed around jeep forums as gospel by clueless inbred rednecks who wouldn't know a wiring diagram if it punched them in the tooth. Now that my fingers are capable of feeling things again (it's nice out, till you have your hands on nice cold metal tools and truck parts, then things change rather fast) and I found my flashlight I'm going to take another stab at it, perhaps rather literally. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 30, 2013 21:57
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Alright stupid jeep, you win, you don't want to be fixed today, I get it. Got the hood open, then the latch on the drivers door failed and it just bounces back at me now. I've never had one of those fail and never seen a broken one in the junkyard either. I'm gonna leave this drat thing alone and not touch any power tools for the rest of the day lest I lose fingers.
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Dec 30, 2013 22:18
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How did you get the hood open? I had the release cable break on one of my Cherokees a few years ago. I think I took the drivers side headlight out and popped that latch. Then lifted the hood up enough to get a big rear end screwdriver on the stainless rod that runs between the 2 latches. Get a bite where the 2 pieces of the rod are welded together and push to the right to pop the drivers side latch. It's been a few years, but I think that's how it's done.
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Jan 3, 2014 08:43
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The hood and the fender were already munged up so I jammed a loving pry bar in, yanked on it till it was bent out of the way enough to get something in there, and then grabbed the trip arm on the latch with a piece of bent coathangar wire. Annoying, but I actually didn't mangle things much worse than the previous owner did.
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Jan 3, 2014 16:13
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Well, today's project took a few hours more than I would have liked, but the jeep's back together and I can drive it home from work. This is a good thing. I ordered new leaf springs, bushings, and U-bolts from Crown Automotive a week or two ago because they have a warehouse outlet in my state, so I get overnight shipping on everything for UPS Ground rate. Also, 4 U-bolts + nuts, 4 leaf bushings, and 2 leaf springs came to like $230 including shipping  They arrived a day later. I stuck them in my pile of jeep stuff in the corner at work and decided I'd install the springs that evening. One of my coworkers (the one I've gone 4-wheeling with, he just lifted his 2013 Tacoma and put an offroad bumper + winch on it and isn't afraid to scratch/dent it if it means making it through a trail) saw them and noted that the two springs didn't look the same at all. one of these things is not like the others!  This is after getting the replacement, which did match. Another thing I like about Crown: All I have to do is call up and say something and they send me replacement parts if something's defective. MAYBE I need to send a picture if it's an expensive product. They're picking the defective spring up whenever one of the employees happens to be in the area, just so they can send it back to the spring plant and ask for an explanation. desperation.jpg:  The driver side spring went quite easily. XJs use a really stupid setup for, well, almost everything in the rear suspension, but by far the worst part of the design is how the leaf eye and shackle mount bolts go through into a weldnut that's trapped inside a sheetmetal stamping welded to the outside of the frame rail. There's no real access from anywhere unless you get medieval on the unibody. So if that weldnut breaks loose, or strips, or the bolt breaks in it, you're proper hosed without bringing in the heavy guns (O/A torch, grinder, welder... etc) The passenger leaf eye bolt was a bastard. It came out of the weldnut, but the bushing sleeve was so packed with rust that it stuck to the bolt and began spinning in the rubber. Again, this is a normal experience in XJ rear suspension work, it just loving sucks. The normal method of fixing the problem is to cut the spring away from the bushing, then cut the bushing outer sleeve away from the rubber, then cut the rubber off, grab the bushing center sleeve with visegrips and haul on the breaker bar till the rust breaks free again. I've even had this happen on vehicles that spent all but one year of their life in southern california. It's an abysmal design. Well. In the process of getting the drat bolt and crap out of the leaf eye pocket on the passenger side, the tip of the bolt bashed around in the weldnut enough to mangle the threads nicely. At 10pm, with no stores open. And it's an M14x2.0 bolt, one size above the largest tap I could find in the collection at work. So I used one of the butchered bolts I'd already pulled out and an angle grinder to make a "poor mans tap" pictured above. It worked, but I am real glad I won't be the poor bastard who has to deal with that bolt if it ever gets pulled again.  Much better. It now sits too high in the back instead of too low - previously, with 200lbs of stuff in the trunk, it'd bottom out so badly the rear axle tubes would slam into the frame rails where the bumpstops were (before they broke off.) This probably means I'll slap V8 ZJ coils in the front for $20 at the junkyard next summer and maybe throw some 30s on it, since the gearing is going to be almost dumptruck deep with the 25" rubber (or even stock 28") once I put the AX15 in. Might as well, right? (and TreadWright has some rather nice tires in a 235/75r15 for very cheap...) So it now has new rear leafs and shocks. In the last few months I've done: leafs shocks all around front balljoints and many suspension bushings heater core front brakes repaired rear brakes front bumpstops And it's getting an LSD rear, a manual transmission, some custom transfer case rework I have in mind, possibly a slip yoke eliminator, probably a new-to-it engine, an AC evap core, new front seats, new-to-it carpet, rear bumpstops, a bunch of rust repair, and a bunch of interior plastics in the near future. Probably a front bumper too because that one's pretty ugly. This jeep is supposed to be the trouble free one. I took the comanche out in the woods and beat it like a rented mule on Sunday with zero problems, but no one has uploaded pictures/video from that trail run yet. edit: oh yeah. Nifty trick - if you need to fish a bolt into somewhere with the tip sticking out, grab your MIG/fluxcore. Strike an arc right in the middle of the tip of the bolt, intentionally stick the wire by pushing it into the puddle as you release the trigger. Disconnect the ground from the bolt, feed out however much wire you need, cut it off. Now you have a formable (moreso with MIG wire, fluxcore wire is kinda brittle) fish line attached, so just poke it into whatever you need to fish the bolt into and move it around till you see the wire behind the hole the bolt needs to come out of. Pull the wire through, then slide the nut/washers up the wire, pull down on the wire while getting the nut started. If done right, you can usually even tighten the bolt without needing a wrench on the inside. Then cut the wire off, and you're done. This works amazingly for fishing new bolts in for the rear upper shock mounts on an XJ after you punch out the weldnuts with the broken-off bolt stubs in them. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 07:06
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Always thought XJs with those ZJ wheels were the tits. 
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Jan 16, 2014 10:20
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Is this the new Toliet JeepTM?
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Jan 16, 2014 18:02
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Those are my favorite factory jeep wheels, aside from old 80s turbines that only look good on some jeeps. Yes, this is the new toilet jeep. Slightly better than the old toilet jeep! It still needs around 2k in work (for most people, I should have around 350 into it when all is said and done) to be a decent $1500 ride 
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Jan 16, 2014 18:11
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