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Driving this thing is going to ruin other cars for me. I loving love it so much. The feel of the shifter throw, the sound of the engine as I wind it up, driving is FUN again.
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Nov 2, 2013 20:55
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| # ? May 27, 2024 20:43 |
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Yep, driving a Miata on the regular will pretty much ruin every other manual transmission vehicle you ever drive, they will all feel like piles of poo poo in comparison.
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Nov 2, 2013 22:40
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The only car I can think of that Ive driven recently that had close to as good was a 2012 mustang. Ive tried E39 540s, e46 325s, Honds, Toyotas, Subarus, and they all felt really vauge and sloppy shifting. It kind of makes me cringe.
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Nov 2, 2013 22:45
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leica posted:Yep, driving a Miata on the regular will pretty much ruin every other manual transmission vehicle you ever drive, they will all feel like piles of poo poo in comparison. I can't believe the difference between it and the MS6. The 6 is smooth, almost soft. The Miata feels like I've always though shfting gears should. Guys at Cars & Coffee loved it too. I've pretty much been dubbed "the Mazda guy" now.
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Nov 3, 2013 02:33
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Sadi posted:The only car I can think of that Ive driven recently that had close to as good was a 2012 mustang. Ive tried E39 540s, e46 325s, Honds, Toyotas, Subarus, and they all felt really vauge and sloppy shifting. It kind of makes me cringe. Drive an S2000 and you won't think this
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Nov 3, 2013 20:01
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The S2000's shifter is pretty good. It's the same AZ6 box that the Miata 6-speed has.
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Nov 3, 2013 21:40
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Sadi posted:The only car I can think of that Ive driven recently that had close to as good was a 2012 mustang. Ive tried E39 540s, e46 325s, Honds, Toyotas, Subarus, and they all felt really vauge and sloppy shifting. It kind of makes me cringe. Every BMW shifter I've used has felt like rubbery poo poo to me. 
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Nov 4, 2013 00:01
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Hey miata thread, can I ask a question? I had some generic side indicators on my 180sx that look horrible (fitted for Australian compliance in a different spot to the OEM parts). I want to replace them with something nicer, and the 89-97 miata side indicators look like a good option. Can someone tell me what the measurements are for the rear section of the housing?
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Nov 5, 2013 01:02
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Miata shifter is the second best I have used - S2000 is still the best. Worst is my 2004 Impreza (need to get the kartboy shifter) or a Chevy HHR I drove once.
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Nov 5, 2013 19:47
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I think a Ford Ranger I drove had the worst shifter. It had to move like a foot and a half each shift, and it wobbled all over the place.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:04
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the Ford Ranger has a shifter that feels like every other truck's shifter.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:22
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The hilariously lovely shifters on trucks like the Ranger or old Nissans and Toyotas is kind of part of their charm.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:28
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Guinness posted:The hilariously lovely shifters on trucks like the Ranger or old Nissans and Toyotas is kind of part of their charm. The sloppy long throws are the best part of manual transmission trucks. Girlfriend's mom has a '96 Hardbody and on the rare occasions I borrow it you bet your rear end I'm playing big rig trucker. :cowboy:
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Nov 6, 2013 03:06
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Previa_fun posted:The sloppy long throws are the best part of manual transmission trucks. Girlfriend's mom has a '96 Hardbody and on the rare occasions I borrow it you bet your rear end I'm playing big rig trucker. :cowboy: This may or may not be part of the reason I shift without the clutch about half the time on the Ranger.  is what you are looking for, I believe.The other half is that the clutch hydraulics loving suck and the truck runs better the more hatefully you drive it.
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Nov 6, 2013 04:17
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I had a 96 Tacoma manual for almost 10 years before my buying my Miata and the difference in shifting is ridiculous. But like said above, that huge throw in a truck is half the charm. There is a certain joy to be had when gear changes become drat near full body motions that the small throw of the Miata just will never -and was never meant to -capture.
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Nov 6, 2013 06:23
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I need new front latches for my hardtop and front striker plate bolts for my car, but my Google skills are turning up $extortion prices. Almost 140 for a pair of latches is the best I'm finding. What's the best place to look for hardware for the miata?
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Nov 6, 2013 07:28
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:I need new front latches for my hardtop and front striker plate bolts for my car, but my Google skills are turning up $extortion prices. Almost 140 for a pair of latches is the best I'm finding. What's the best place to look for hardware for the miata?
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Nov 6, 2013 08:12
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Since you're probably only going to be taking the hard top off in a garage anyways you could just get a set of spec miata plates for about 30$ which will be stiffer and lighter too. The only downside is you need to unbolt them to remove the hard top.
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Nov 6, 2013 11:01
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:I need new front latches for my hardtop and front striker plate bolts for my car, but my Google skills are turning up $extortion prices. Almost 140 for a pair of latches is the best I'm finding. What's the best place to look for hardware for the miata? I have some take offs if you want to buy them. The latches aren't perfect, but they latch fine. Do you need the fronts or the sides? I have both.
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Nov 6, 2013 14:41
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I have some media-blasted NA latches that I will never use, they're yours for shipping. edit: oh hard top nevermind 
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Nov 7, 2013 02:03
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Previa_fun posted:The sloppy long throws are the best part of manual transmission trucks. Girlfriend's mom has a '96 Hardbody and on the rare occasions I borrow it you bet your rear end I'm playing big rig trucker. :cowboy: It's ironic, because Mazda yanked the 5-speed in the Miata straight out of the B2000 pickup.
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Nov 7, 2013 02:18
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craig588 posted:Since you're probably only going to be taking the hard top off in a garage anyways you could just get a set of spec miata plates for about 30$ which will be stiffer and lighter too. The only downside is you need to unbolt them to remove the hard top. Do they completely replace the latches? I only put it on for winter, so that's not a bad option.
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Nov 7, 2013 04:49
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Gonna be listing this @ 12.5 shortly. Freshly detailed    105k miles. Bone stock with a Flyin' Miata downpipe. Cloth top is about a year old.
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Nov 7, 2013 20:56
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Are you in Canada or something?
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Nov 8, 2013 01:19
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That's a nice MSM and it's probably worth it, but drat 12k seems like a lot of money for a NB, turbo or not.
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Nov 8, 2013 02:28
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That's list price, I'll (possibly) have to take less. Judging from previous MSM sales on ebay, maybe not.
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Nov 8, 2013 04:44
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It's starting to threaten snow here, so I had to find a ghetto solution to my hard top until I can get new latches. The problem is basically that the little bits of plastic the hold the latches shut have worn off, so they just pop back open when you close them. I have "solved" this by making shims out of some aluminum I had lying around and shoving them under the back of the latches so they can't open. I then covered it with duck tape (hot pink for style and class) to keep it from sliding out. It seems to work, but we might want to do an over/under on the number of days it takes for one to come rocketing out and embed in my face.
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Nov 8, 2013 17:26
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One of my latches does the same thing. I taped a small shim on with gorilla tape and it's been fine for around a month. Am I a fool for running without side latches? The roll bar necessitated their removal, but I have metal brackets I could use instead. I had them on last winter, and took them off when I took off the hard top, and just haven't put them back on yet.
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Nov 8, 2013 17:38
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TrueChaos posted:One of my latches does the same thing. I taped a small shim on with gorilla tape and it's been fine for around a month. The side latches saved my bacon on the freeway once. There was a huge bump caused by the concrete contracting in the cold and it popped both my front latches open. The side latches held the top in place while I came to a stop in the shoulder to fix it.
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Nov 8, 2013 17:40
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Finally found a set of decently priced wheels for the NA/Fit (15x7 rota gt3 with RT615s) but hellaflushness has corrupted my brain and I'm afraid the +40 (or 42) offset will ruin my street cred. Is it safe to run say 7mm spacers? 10mm is apparently too much for factory studs. Edit: Nvm 1/4" or 6.35mm will work. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 21:00
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:It's starting to threaten snow here, so I had to find a ghetto solution to my hard top until I can get new latches. The problem is basically that the little bits of plastic the hold the latches shut have worn off, so they just pop back open when you close them. I have "solved" this by making shims out of some aluminum I had lying around and shoving them under the back of the latches so they can't open. I then covered it with duck tape (hot pink for style and class) to keep it from sliding out. It seems to work, but we might want to do an over/under on the number of days it takes for one to come rocketing out and embed in my face. Just get the spec miata plates like craig588 said. They completely replace the latches.
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Nov 8, 2013 21:56
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Anybody catch the Miata song on China, IL? http://video.adultswim.com/china-il/its-a-miata.html
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Nov 9, 2013 03:57
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GD_American posted:Anybody catch the Miata song on China, IL? I saw it on FB, had to share it.
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Nov 9, 2013 06:25
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Hog Obituary posted:Just get the spec miata plates like craig588 said. They completely replace the latches. Plan to, but Wisconsin winters are not very nice to soft tops. Or body panels, for that matter, but nothing I can do about that one.
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Nov 9, 2013 07:42
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Quick question about brake pads. I have the Haynes repair manual and it says to put anti-squeal compound between the shims and caliper fingers so it's like this: caliper finger -> anti-squeal -> shim -> brake pad But the miata.net guide says to put the compound between the shim and pad, so it's like: caliper finger -> shim -> anti-squeal -> brake pad So which is it?
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Nov 11, 2013 09:03
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Hikaki posted:Quick question about brake pads. I have the Haynes repair manual and it says to put anti-squeal compound between the shims and caliper fingers so it's like this: Anywhere with metal to metal contact really. Back of the pad, back of the shim and sides of the pad that go into caliper bracket is what I usually do. Just a slim coating is enough.
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Nov 11, 2013 14:14
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Of course, my back left winter tire tore itself apart on the way to the gas station to top off air. I don't see any signs of dry rot and it was only down about 10 PSI. As far as I can tell it was a totally spontaneous failure. Now begins the game of calling around town and hoping someone will sell me a steelie with a tire on it for cheap on the quick.
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Nov 11, 2013 22:25
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Hey Guys my MK1 just passed its mot. But its much more worse for ware rust wise then I initially thought when I bought it. Im in the uk and was wondering if anyone has and advice on a place to take it for a quote to cut out and repair the crappy sills get the chassi rails coated, though replaced if possible might be better as they do not have a bad rust issue but have been battered and get the subframe blasted and coated. Or maybe im being foolish and it would be a better idea to sell up and buy a newer car? The last option was reccommended by the garage I took it to to get a exhaust mount replaced to pass the MOT but I fell in love with this car instantly and am probably being irrational
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Nov 13, 2013 13:59
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My girlfriend just bought a '93 and I've been spending a bunch of time going through all of the many things that were wrong with it. So far it's gotten a tire balance, alignment, new steering rack boots, rebuilt auto shifter (yeah it's an auto), brake fluid flush, SRS control unit rebuild, timing belt, valve cover gasket and front crank seal. Artsy shot of me lining it up at work  It drives a hell of a lot better than it used to. The alignment was screwed, the timing belt was off a tooth and the front crank seal was just kind of hanging out in the cover. Despite it being an auto it's actually pretty fun to drive. It's also noisy. I think it has more wind noise than my motorcycle at freeway speeds. I couldn't find any tool in particular for getting the drat timing belt sprocket off the crank so I got a buddy of mine to make me this  It's kind of loosely based on a print I found online except it actually works and I broached a half inch drive hole instead of trying to bolt it to the engine like the original called for. Here it is in action, note the inches of grime built up on everything!  I didn't take pics of the shifter but instead of the lovely plastic bushings I machined new brass ones. It should hopefully never fail again. I also modified slightly VW shift rod bushings to fit in the rest of the linkage since I was too lazy to go to Mazda for the proper ones. They are the same except the VW ones are a tiny bit wider. The biggest remaining problem is the drat top. It has a glass rear window that absolutely refuses to stay glued to the hole. I've tried a few different types of 3M adhesive, a weird German one that I found at work and finally 3M trim glue which worked the longest but is separated again. What do I need to use to keep the window sealed? It rains infrequently here but when it does the car gets soaked and smells like mildew for weeks afterward. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Nov 17, 2013 |
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Nov 17, 2013 06:26
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There is no glue that will work on that window, you need to take it to an upholstery shop to see what they can do with it, maybe they could stitch it in. But from my experience, it's cheaper just to put a new top on it unless the rest of the top is like new and you REALLY want to save it. If it's by chance a two piece (zipper window) Robbins top you can purchase a vinyl replacement and just zip it in. Otherwise there isn't a whole lot you can do, a shop is probably going to charge you the cost of a new top just to fix it. If the top is worn at all just replace the whole thing. And IMO two piece w/ vinyl window is the best for NA Miatas, glass is a PITA and you've seen what happens to them. Just for reference, glue/epoxy doesn't even work on vinyl windows which weigh nothing in comparison to glass. Every trick that I've seen done fails eventually, some sooner than others. http://topsonline.com/ has the best prices. If you can do a timing belt, you can replace the top. Also I need one of those tools! PM sent Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Nov 17, 2013 |
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Nov 17, 2013 06:56
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