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lazerwolf posted:What do you do if you can barely get one step in before the leash goes tight again? I'm not sure if I did it the right way, but what I did is carried a pocket (hoodie pocket?) full of treats on walks with Artemis and basically led her with them. She picks things up really well and it didn't take long before she started spending the majority of our walks at my side looking up at me. Occassionally (we live in the woods so rabbits, chipmunks, birds and deer are not uncommon sights) she'll get excited and run out to the end of her leash but I stop and get her to come to me and sit/stay until the exciting thing goes away - usually with a face full of treats. Otherwise when we're walking she'll trot out to the end of the leash and I'll put a little pressure on the leash and she'll come right back to me. She is not the same puppy on walks with both dogs though - they get SO EXCITED. At EVERYTHING. When I walk them together, Artemis is manageable but still pulls a bit and Jada just pulls constantly. Especially if there's something exciting in front of her. Like air. Again, Jada is pretty good on walks on her own - she still pulls a bit but she isn't nearly as food motivated as Artemis is so its a lot slower process for her. Still working on it. I'd take any suggestions to help with walking them together. I don't mind walking them separately but I try to go on decently long walks in the woods and a 20-minute each way walk with one dog at a time quickly turns into an hour and a half the cold UNY climate back and forth. Plus they love walking together so it'd be nice if I could let them without losing an arm.
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Nov 7, 2013 15:28
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lazerwolf posted:What do you do if you can barely get one step in before the leash goes tight again? You be patient! Sorry but a lot of dog training comes down to patience, consistency and repetition. If you need to take your dog out for exercise, practice lead walking down to the park or drive down, then put them on a long lead so they can run around, (if they don't have reliable recall). I find a lot of dogs don't get focused on pulling when they're on a long lead since they have space to go and sniff something if they want to without pulling you over, and qyute often they'll chill out and keep pace with you once they're settled, a little farther away than the short lead would allow. Then, when you're focusing on training, you put them back on the short lead. That way you don't have to worry about whether your dog is getting enough exercise, and it means that they're not practicing the unwanted behaviour of pulling on lead. When I'm talking about short vs long leads, I use a 180cm lead for regular walks, then I have a 5m long one for the dog with no recall. ETA The technique above with treating the dog for walking next to you is what I use to teach a formal heel. Usually we try to teach loose lead walking without food rewards since getting to start walking again is a pretty big reward for the dog. If you do teach it with food rewards, try and phase them out as soon as you can, (decreasing frequency of treats when the dog is reliably performing the behaviour), otherwise you'll end up having to take treats with you on walks foreeever in order to keep your dog's attention. 6-Ethyl Bearcat fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 15:29
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lazerwolf posted:What do you do if you can barely get one step in before the leash goes tight again? We've been training loose leash walking with treats. You get them next to you sitting with some treats. Let them smell your hand then bring it up to your waste. They should maintain eye contact. Just start walking and treat every few feet to start. Eventually just increase the amount of time between treats. If the dog loses interest prime them again by having them sniff your hand/treat them once. It'll be slow moving at first but after a week of this I can get my pup to follow by my side (with treats) simply when she see's the bag on my hip. If you reinforce the behavior enough times it'll sink. Also, starting indoors may be needed. Outside can offer many distractions.
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Nov 7, 2013 16:07
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mcswizzle posted:I'd take any suggestions to help with walking them together. I don't mind walking them separately but I try to go on decently long walks in the woods and a 20-minute each way walk with one dog at a time quickly turns into an hour and a half the cold UNY climate back and forth. Plus they love walking together so it'd be nice if I could let them without losing an arm. Introducing another element like another dog is basically going back to square one. So start over on training when walking both of them together. Get some carabiners and clip the leashes to your belt loops so you have some hands free.
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Nov 7, 2013 16:35
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lazerwolf posted:What do you do if you can barely get one step in before the leash goes tight again? There's a good exercise for this. This is assuming you've done some basic eye contact/doggie zen/"check-in" work. Stick a bunch of treats on the ground and let the dog see that the treats are on the floor but don't let them eat them yet. Walk away from the treats with your dog towards a starting point then start walking towards the treats. As soon as your dog starts any movement towards pulling out of your bubble walk backwards until you get eye contact from your dog and they're somewhere in your bubble and then start walking forward again. If the dog starts to pull towards the treats walk back again and get eye contact. Repeat repeat repeat until you get to the pile of treats without any pulling and be super strict about any movement to pull. I like to mark the eye contact with a YES! It helps to teach the dog that pulling doesn't get you anywhere and that checking in with you and walking nicely gets them what they want. You can do this exercise with anything that the dog wants, such as to go sniff something, see another dog or person, etc. Woops sorry double post. cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 16:46
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I'm a volunteer dog-walker at an animal shelter, and so many of the worst pullers are very underexercised and untrained. The stop when pulling method doesn't really work that well, because the dogs still need to get exercise, and it can be difficult for them to learn when they're so underexercised. There's no off-leash area or anything. That being said, I've had some success with turning around and walking in the other direction when the dog pulls – it doesn't reward them for pulling, but it does keep them walking, even if we're only walking in the same 10 foot stretch.
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Nov 7, 2013 17:01
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cheese eats mouse posted:Introducing another element like another dog is basically going back to square one. So start over on training when walking both of them together. Get some carabiners and clip the leashes to your belt loops so you have some hands free. Would you recommend just jumping in with both dogs? Or working with Jada on her own until she's better, and then starting them together? I was going to say I would wait, but then I realized that if I'm successful with teaching them together, that it should translate to her walking on her own better as well - taking away the extra dog as a distraction wouldn't cause her to regress as it would reversed. cheese eats mouse posted:Get some carabiners and clip the leashes to your belt loops so you have some hands free. Invalid Octopus posted:I'm a volunteer dog-walker at an animal shelter, and so many of the worst pullers are very underexercised and untrained. The stop when pulling method doesn't really work that well, because the dogs still need to get exercise, and it can be difficult for them to learn when they're so underexercised. There's no off-leash area or anything. That being said, I've had some success with turning around and walking in the other direction when the dog pulls – it doesn't reward them for pulling, but it does keep them walking, even if we're only walking in the same 10 foot stretch. The turning/walking thing hasn't worked very well for me, but I definitely try to exercise them as much as we can. Since it's dark and cold when we get home from work, rather than fighting the weather we go to the local dog-store that has a large room that they call a "gym" - some agility equipment, lots of toys and a lot of open space. We can rent it for  / 30 minutes which lets them get a lot of running out for 30-60 minutes. By the time we get home they're asleep on their feet, but it doesn't do much good for that initial walk when we get home and let them out of the crate 
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Nov 7, 2013 17:54
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Invalid Octopus posted:I'm a volunteer dog-walker at an animal shelter, and so many of the worst pullers are very underexercised and untrained. The stop when pulling method doesn't really work that well, because the dogs still need to get exercise, and it can be difficult for them to learn when they're so underexercised. There's no off-leash area or anything. That being said, I've had some success with turning around and walking in the other direction when the dog pulls – it doesn't reward them for pulling, but it does keep them walking, even if we're only walking in the same 10 foot stretch. This is why my shelter gets us to use easywalks on all the dogs when we're going for a walk. Now trying to get the pullers to and from the staging area on a slip lead is another thing entirely.
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Nov 7, 2013 19:36
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mcswizzle posted:Would you recommend just jumping in with both dogs? Or working with Jada on her own until she's better, and then starting them together? I was going to say I would wait, but then I realized that if I'm successful with teaching them together, that it should translate to her walking on her own better as well - taking away the extra dog as a distraction wouldn't cause her to regress as it would reversed. I'm sure others with more experience can give better help since this is stuff I learned in class last night! This what I do know. I would get them both pretty solid and then train them together since you'll have all their individual training to fall back on as a foundation. You're always going to need to have them both not pull so it's better to get a solid foundation first, plus training two dogs at once will be overwhelming if you're not that experienced (like me! I couldn't even get 1 dog to heel well until last night) I would give them both their own side of your body when walking together to start. They might even have a preference. Two of my dogs likes staying to my left and the other prefers being on the right. You can train them both to heel on both your right and left sides down the road. The carabiner suggestion was for when they're both competent at loose leash walking outside. 
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Nov 7, 2013 20:04
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cheese eats mouse posted:I'm sure others with more experience can give better help since this is stuff I learned in class last night! This what I do know. Yeah, my sister in law does has each of her dogs on one side. I'm not sure if they were trained or chose the preference though. Yeah now that I think of it I can see a good foundation is important; Artemis is still very excited when I walk them together, but is a lot easier to corral when she starts running off. It's like she says to herself, "Oh yeah, I'm on a leash! Maybe I should stick around!". We're still working on a good recall, and neither have a good heel. I think we need to start escalating the treats we're using for the recall. Artemis invariably comes when you call her and you have a treat, but I feel like she knows when I don't have treats - she'll look at me, put her nose in the air (maybe just putting it up?) and then saunters over (yes, she can saunter) like nothing is going on. Sometimes she doesn't actually come to me at all, just changes her direction. But with treats she's always great. My thinking is that if I use better (read:stinkier) treats that she'll continue to come for the treats, but she'll associate coming when called with better treats, and hopefully overcome the overwhelming 
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Nov 7, 2013 20:30
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I have just rescued a puppy and I have some questions. Here he is:  He is a 7 month old Labrador Retriever mix. The mix is currently unknown. Is there a way to DNA test the dog to find out his heritage? Here are the testing scores: Direct Stare: A Down Low: A Leash: C Sociable-Standing: A Sociable-Sitting: A Backstroking: C Hand Test: B Teeth Test: C Safe Hug: C Food Test: B I don't know a lot about this stuff, but was told those are very good scores. I'm not use what the Hand test is. Ok. I've been reading through the OP and here are my questions. I apologize if these were answered and I just missed them. Crate: Is there a recommended crate? I see there are various types. I was told it needs to be big enough for him to stand in but not so large that he can poo in the corner and sleep away from it. Once I have the crate, how do I prepare it? Blanket? Water bowl? A sheet to cover it? How much time should I keep doggy in the crate? Can I move the crate to different spot or keep in static? Food: How much and how often should I feed? Should I stick with kibble for the time being? Because he is 7 months, he is a puppy..when does that designation change? I'm guessing I should give him puppy food for the time being. Stuff to buy: Crate Food bowl, water bowl. Should I get a second water bowl for the crate? Toys. Chew toy. Kong? A collar with buckle. A six foot nylon leash. Poo bags? Missing anything? The first day: I pick him up tomorrow or Saturday. Likely Saturday so I can have an extra day to prep and he can have an extra day in a relatively familiar environment after he gets he nuts lopped off today. So I bring him home. What do I do first? This is where I start to feel a bit overwhelmed. Do I immediately start the crate training? Is the crate absolutely necessary? The OP is written as if the puppy is a young one but my guy is probably close to full grown already. So lost. So excited. Help please! Thanks so much!
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Nov 7, 2013 23:49
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Yeesh. Penny was really good about play biting, but it's obvious she's started getting some adult teeth in because she's become absolutely unbearable with the biting lately. She doesn't care for nylabones at all, and she just about ignores all her chew toys in favour of going after things she knows she's not supposed to. About the only thing that's calmed her down is chewing on ice cubes and carrot sticks, both of which are gone through at an alarming rate. I've tried soaking her rope toys in water and freezing them but she doesn't really go for those either for some reason. Man I have no idea how I went through this with my other dogs but I'm kind of hating life right now  No real question here, just venting.
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Nov 8, 2013 01:57
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Waltzing Along posted:Crate: Do you know if he's house-trained? Crates are really helpful for house-training, but they're also really helpful if you've got a dog who will destroy poo poo while you're out. There's not really a recommended crate, just your typical wire crate or Vari kennel will work fine. It should be big enough for him to stand and turn around, but that's mainly for house-training. If he's by any chance already really well house-trained feel free to get him a slightly larger one if you want. You can put whatever he likes in there. A bed or blanket, unless he's one of the many dogs who likes to rip those to shreds when bored. Water bowl is fine, but probably not necessary unless you'll be gone for several hours or it's really hot. Some dogs just end up tipping the water bowl over by accident (but you can get ones that affix to the bars). Ideally he shouldn't be left in the crate for more than 8 hours. Less is better, obviously. Look into crate games to teach him to enjoy being in his crate. Never use it for punishment/time-outs. It probably helps just for the sake of routine to keep the crate in one location but unless you have a particularly sensitive pup it shouldn't be a big deal if you move it. Waltzing Along posted:Food: Diet is a question better left to your vet. It will depend on how much exercise he gets as well. Most people consider dogs no longer a puppy around 1 year old, but eh. He'll be entering his boundary-testing rear end in a top hat teenager phase soon so don't be surprised if he turns out to be... well, an rear end in a top hat. For a while, at least. Some dogs are worse than others. Waltzing Along posted:Stuff to buy: Other than food, obviously, seems good enough. Water bowl for crate is up to you. Maybe a bed, unless you have an old pillow or something at home for him to use. Waltzing Along posted:The first day: I would personally give him time to settle in and just chill. The crate is only really necessary if he's still not quite house-trained or will destroy poo poo while you're out. Like I said earlier, look into crate games, maybe try doing a little bit of those after the first day or two. It depends on your pup really. Some are immediately comfortable no matter where they go, others take a while to settle in and feel secure. I'm really loving tired so this is probably a rambling mess.
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Nov 8, 2013 04:45
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Waltzing Along posted:Here he is: http://www.wisdompanel.com/ is the most popular iirc. They're not 100% accurate or anything, but they can provide some insight. IMHO your dog does not even look that labby.
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Nov 8, 2013 05:47
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How do I get my puppy to fetch? It's odd, because it was just natural in my other dog. This one will chase something I throw, but then just sit next to it when it stops moving, she won't pick it up or anything. She sometimes picks up random sticks, and goes bonkers for leaves blowing in the wind. How do I get this girl to chase a drat tennis ball and bring it back to me!
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Nov 8, 2013 18:10
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Sab0921 posted:How do I get my puppy to fetch? It's odd, because it was just natural in my other dog. This one will chase something I throw, but then just sit next to it when it stops moving, she won't pick it up or anything. Start with short distances (across a carpet) and roll the ball. When she reaches it, click and treat. Once "Go to ball, get treat" sinks in, change it to mouth the ball. Once that's in, change it to mouth the ball and bring it here. Then you can work on increasing distance but the important thing to establish is rolled/thrown ball = treats.
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Nov 8, 2013 19:11
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Thwomp posted:Start with short distances (across a carpet) and roll the ball. When she reaches it, click and treat. Once "Go to ball, get treat" sinks in, change it to mouth the ball. Once that's in, change it to mouth the ball and bring it here. Then you can work on increasing distance but the important thing to establish is rolled/thrown ball = treats. For my other dog, fetch was the reward itself. He was taught to be patient and sit and lay down and all basic obedience stuff with throwing a ball as a reward, and I thought all dogs were like that. She likes to chase things (we have a flirtpole and she goes nuts for it), but I guess I have to learn that all dogs aren't built the same!
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Nov 8, 2013 19:18
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Sab0921 posted:For my other dog, fetch was the reward itself. He was taught to be patient and sit and lay down and all basic obedience stuff with throwing a ball as a reward, and I thought all dogs were like that. Yeah don't feel bad. Some dogs get typical dog behavior/tricks right away. Others need encouragement.
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Nov 8, 2013 19:21
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Thwomp posted:Yeah don't feel bad. Some dogs get typical dog behavior/tricks right away. Others need encouragement. Our dog loves to play tug but sometimes I just want to run her out so she sleeps. What I end up doing is keep two different toys to throw. When she get's back I use the toy in my hand to bait her to drop the toy in her mouth, then repeat. After about 10 minutes of running back and forth she passes out.
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Nov 8, 2013 19:37
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Sab0921 posted:How do I get my puppy to fetch? It's odd, because it was just natural in my other dog. This one will chase something I throw, but then just sit next to it when it stops moving, she won't pick it up or anything. I like this link for teaching a retrieve. http://www.shirleychong.com/keepers/retrieve.html It's mostly aimed at shaping a formal, competition-level retrieve but can be used for anything. It's useful to first introduce the dog to the idea of putting an object in its mouth and then putting that object into your hands. It looks intimidating to start (so many steps) but you can blow through them really quickly with most dogs.
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Nov 8, 2013 20:00
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Jada is a very vocal dog, especially compared to Artemis. She doesn't seem to bark reactively, just more out of boredom or impatience. She'll see the other dog playing with a SUPER AWESOME TOY and decide that's the one she wants, so she'll bark at Artemis to get the toy. As soon as Artemis walks away? Jada grabs the toy and is A-OK. Except until she decides she wants whatever new toy is being played with. It's not usually a big deal - we'll redirect to another toy (doesn't always work) or I'll try to do some quick practice with her tricks (sit/stay/shake/rollover) to distract her, but that doesn't always work either. During the day this isn't the end of the world. Hell, I'm thrilled that it's just boredom barking and not some worse reactivity. But it's a huge pain in the rear end at night...I already get up at 5 AM most mornings for work, so when she is up until 2 barking it makes for a long night and next day. We try to wear the dogs out - we spend about an hour most nights at a local pet store that has a gym that can be rented out - we let them run and play, play fetch with them, play on some agility equipment, and in general do puppy-stuff. They close at 8 PM though, so after we go home and feed the dogs they'll nap (hard to stop them, this is when we get to clean the house/eat dinner) and they're rested and ready to go by bed time. Any thoughts on what we can do to curb the barking without crating them? That usually just leads to whining all night long which isn't a whole lot better. (I would try giving them peanut-butter filled kongs to go to sleep with, but they all take each others' constantly, and Artemis still gets aggressive if we don't supervise her with high-value toys so unless we crate them at night, which as I said is something we'd prefer to avoid)
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Nov 8, 2013 21:19
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I'd keep them separated at night, either via crate, x-pen, door or some other enclosure. Put something up that blocks line of sight. Whining may increase for a bit, but should fade once they get used to the new set up. And/or pick up all toys at night. Night is for sleeping, not playing, chewing, etc. You may be wearing your dogs out, but you also may be acclimatizing them to expect a high amount of exercise each day. If you offer exercise instead of requiring relaxation then they'll never learn to voluntarily relax when things get boring.
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Nov 8, 2013 22:00
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a life less posted:I'd keep them separated at night, either via crate, x-pen, door or some other enclosure. Put something up that blocks line of sight. Whining may increase for a bit, but should fade once they get used to the new set up. I'll try this and just power through it. Hopefully it won't last long. I did forget to mention that she isn't as bad after the TV is off. Usually we go to sleep with a TV on for background noise and she barks noticeably more when it's on. If I turn it off she'll still bark but seems to settle down after a while. Is the TV too stimulating?
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Nov 8, 2013 22:20
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I suspect it varies from dog to dog because our puppy loves to sleep to the sound of the TV.
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Nov 8, 2013 22:30
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I'm picking up my dog tomorrow and am kind of freaked out. Is this normal? I'm very excited, just ... nervous.
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Nov 9, 2013 00:45
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Waltzing Along posted:I'm picking up my dog tomorrow and am kind of freaked out. Is this normal? In less than 24 hours you'll have a new best friend. Don't worry about it. 
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Nov 9, 2013 01:00
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internet inc posted:In less than 24 hours you'll have a new best friend. Don't worry about it. 
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Nov 9, 2013 01:05
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I'm looking to get two mini-rat terriers but they never show up at rescues in my area. I've never gone through a breeder before so all I can get from the websites are that they get their shots and they are raised "WITH TLC!" Can someone help give me a QC check on some of these websites? http://www.gotratterriers.com/ http://imageevent.com/sundancekennels <---This one seems super creepy but maybe I'm just paranoid. http://imageevent.com/10kittyfarm None of them answer emails of course.
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Nov 10, 2013 03:57
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Waltzing Along posted:I'm picking up my dog tomorrow and am kind of freaked out. Is this normal? Totally normal. Just be sure to remember that excited feeling once you actually have your new dog! The first week or so can be strange and tiring. You may not sleep properly. Stick with it, dogs are great
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Nov 10, 2013 09:34
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Dirt5o8 posted:I'm looking to get two mini-rat terriers but they never show up at rescues in my area. I've never gone through a breeder before so all I can get from the websites are that they get their shots and they are raised "WITH TLC!" So, all of those websites are terrible. It's hard go glean any worthwhile information from them at all. gotrarterriers is designed simply to sell puppies. No information whatsoever on the parents. "AKC UKC & UKCI registered" means absolutely nothing. It's the sort of thing breeders say to capitalize on the ignorance of their customers. Or they're just really out of touch and believe it's a mark of quality themselves. E: Just saw that they breed merle rat terriers. This is ridiculous and the mark of an ignorant/greedy breeder. Sundance seems to have a Facebook page that was updated semi-recently. All I can see are photos of their dogs. Can't say I love the look of the dogs. They seem stocky and are kept quite fat. Maybe there's more information about the dogs posted privately. I see no evidence of showing or any other activities the breeder does with their dogs. Further internet detectivery suggests that they've sold their puppies on NextDayPets.com. Would not advise you support this breeder. They seem thoroughly mediocre. 10 Kitty Farm doesn't have much of an internet presence at all. They look like they're occasional breeders, but once again do nothing noteworthy with their dogs. I wouldn't get a dog from them. I'm not sure where you are, but a quick google brought up this breeder. They're not fantastic by any means, but they're worlds better than what you were looking at. http://www.lranchinratterriers.com/ourratdivas.htm You could try contacting the AKC club secretary here: http://www.akc.org/club_search/index_master.cfm?action=refresh_index&active_tab_row_A=1&active_tab_col_A=1&Fixed_ID=1 and asking for some recommendations for breeders in your area. You could also try searching here: http://www.akc.org/classified/search/ I'm not familiar enough with the breed to speak much on your desire to get a mini rat terrier, but often when breeders start focusing on breeding for size they opt not to focus on more important things like temperament and physical soundness. I've only known one mini rat terrier and she was a cool little dog, but was found to have pretty severe luxating patellas and was retired from an active life as a result. You mention you want 2 rat terriers. Littermates? I would definitely advise you to space out your dogs by at least ~2 years if you're positive you want to be a multi-dog household. Raising two puppies together is hell, and then there's littermate syndrome to deal with; http://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2012/03/30/littermate-syndrome/. a life less fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Nov 10, 2013 |
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Nov 10, 2013 13:36
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a life less posted:Good stuff Thanks for the info. My BS meter was tingling but the OP said that most breeder sites are garbage. My experience with Mini-Rat Terriers are all through my sisters'. She did space hers apart by a year. We shared a place in Flagstaff, Arizona for 4 years and the little guys grew on me. They're good jogging/hiking dogs and love to be active. My vet had told me about terrier "same-sex aggression" but she never said anything about problems with littermates. I wish I could use my sisters breeder but that's in NY. Once again, thanks. Ill definitely keep looking. I'm not super dead set on Rat Terriers but I've had so many good experiences with them that I'd love to get my own. Edit: Well, looked around. The nearest AKC breeders are in Texas. But I did find a rescue in Nevada! I think I'll go that route instead. Dawww... http://www.newrattitude.org/dogs.htm Dirt5o8 fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Nov 10, 2013 |
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Nov 10, 2013 14:11
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Dirt5o8 posted:Thanks for the info. My BS meter was tingling but the OP said that most breeder sites are garbage. If you're certain you know what you're looking for, you can speak to the New York breeder and try to arrange to have a puppy shipped. Or you can try to use your sister as a liaison. Spacing puppies out by a year is probably the bare minimum I would recommend. Good luck. Rat terriers can be very cool dogs, but definitely have their issues (like all breeds). Not rushing into it is important. Good luck!
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Nov 10, 2013 14:41
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I posted some new dog questions ages ago, and now it's finally happening! We're picking up Baillie, a 10 month old retriever/lab who failed guide dog boot camp due to having EIC syndrome on Wednesday. I'm excited to meet her, and see the look of horror on the cat's face when she arrives and he realises what that giant bed is for. Her condition isn't severe, and everyone's been made aware of it. Has anyone else had experience with Exercise Induced Collapse?
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Nov 10, 2013 15:07
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a life less posted:If you're certain you know what you're looking for, you can speak to the New York breeder and try to arrange to have a puppy shipped. Or you can try to use your sister as a liaison. Whoa, puppy shipping is a thing? I never even considered that.
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Nov 10, 2013 15:30
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Dirt5o8 posted:Whoa, puppy shipping is a thing? I never even considered that. Yep. It's not ideal, but it's definitely an option. Lots of people purchase puppies from overseas, or from the other side of the country. It can be pricey, but if you're looking for a very specific type of dog from a trustworthy breeder then it can be worth it.
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Nov 10, 2013 15:40
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It wouldn't be the price so much as possible trauma to the dog. I'd be a nervous wreck and feel terribly guilty about it. I think I'll stick to a rescue in the region. I drive a lot for my job so a 10 hour trip is peanuts to me. Thanks for all the advice though!
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Nov 10, 2013 16:56
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When I bought my first puppy it was from a puppy mill store (yeah, I didn't know any better) and his papers showed him as being born in Missouri. I always hated thinking what that poor little pup had to go through on a trip from Missouri to Florida at a young age  But in the end he was basically the perfect dog so everything worked out, thankfully.
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Nov 10, 2013 18:01
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My puppy has diarrhea and it's gross. Don't get a puppy.
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Nov 11, 2013 01:17
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My family got a puppy when it was a month and a half old (a beagle). Now it is about to be 5 months old and I'm wondering if it's too late to train her. She usually pees around the house and bites everything and everyone (if I had a camera I'll send a picture of all the bite marks I have in my arms). We usually carry her out of the room when she starts biting us too harshly, but I'm getting worried if she'll ever stop doing that. Is this just a stage due to her being a puppy? Also, she is very friendly with other humans, but other dogs (bigger or even smaller) scare her, to the point where she just stares at them or remains still while the other dog smells her. Can I do something to make her less scared?
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Nov 11, 2013 16:55
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| # ? May 28, 2024 04:21 |
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radlum posted:My family got a puppy when it was a month and a half old (a beagle). Now it is about to be 5 months old and I'm wondering if it's too late to train her. A Dog is never too old to be trained. You just have to be patient. Also 5 months is nothing. We just started class training at 6 months and she was fine.
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Nov 11, 2013 17:22
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