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Took my dad out and had him drive the STi on some windy roads just north of Vancouver, was so great to see a big smile on his otherwise quite serious face. Love this car.
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Nov 12, 2013 01:23
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/xpost from youtube videos. My first ever rally in a 2002 Impreza Wagon. WRX engine with 2006 STi 6spd. If you want any more details, lemme know! Ended up coming 4th out of 27, and winning the novice award. Made me feel pretty awesome, and I can't wait for the next rally. So much fun, so glad I did it with a Subaru. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Zqk_PSK_E
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Nov 12, 2013 03:27
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MrZig posted:/xpost from youtube videos. My first ever rally in a 2002 Impreza Wagon. WRX engine with 2006 STi 6spd. If you want any more details, lemme know! Ended up coming 4th out of 27, and winning the novice award. Made me feel pretty awesome, and I can't wait for the next rally. So much fun, so glad I did it with a Subaru. Now you need to follow KaptainBallisitk and do the WRC 
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Nov 12, 2013 03:32
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Bajaha posted:I wish my local market had these prices. Up here they're around 9k - 10k and most have suffered some form of molestation. If it's not loosing an appreciable amount of oil between changes and the axles aren't making noise and you're planning on full replacement axles anyway then I don't see why you couldn't just wait the winter out and do those things yourself in the spring/early summer when it gets nice enough to work on it, would save you some cash for sure. If you want to get some more excitement out of it, and spend the money you'd save by going the DIY route, it's fairly easy to do some basic mods and a AP tune and there's always some cheap used performance parts on NASIOC for just a little more oomph. Plus you've mentioned you like the car so might as well keep it and play around with it. Thanks. It's especially encouraging to hear these aren't super-pressing problems; the mechanic at the dealer made it sound urgent and I didn't quite get why, thought it might be a special Subaru thing. It is really tempting to take advantage of owning it outright to learn about modding and doing some more involved wrenching... So if my oil level stays within range (the light on the dash is too late right? heh) and I'm not hearing anything weird from the axles/suspension I should be good to go? What should I be listening for, clunks, squeaks, etc? I'm still going to have my mechanic look at it and quote it, but if so, that's good to know. On a side note, I'm really distressed how much of a mark I've become for dealers.
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Nov 12, 2013 03:52
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MrZig posted:/xpost from youtube videos. My first ever rally in a 2002 Impreza Wagon. WRX engine with 2006 STi 6spd. If you want any more details, lemme know! Ended up coming 4th out of 27, and winning the novice award. Made me feel pretty awesome, and I can't wait for the next rally. So much fun, so glad I did it with a Subaru. Wow, that is the straightest stage I've ever seen - but also absurdly long. Few sudden "ohshit" spots in the middle of long windy straights. Like an endurance test. How were you seeded? I've never seen anyone blow past people ahead like that.
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Nov 12, 2013 04:14
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si posted:Wow, that is the straightest stage I've ever seen - but also absurdly long. Few sudden "ohshit" spots in the middle of long windy straights. Like an endurance test. The next two stages on Saturday were on ice and snow covered roads, and each were 20 minutes long. I was very sweaty and parched and stressed. And yeah there were some oh poo poo spots, and definitely some Oh poo poo! moments the next time we drove that stage, which was at night. Also passed another car during that stage. I was seeded second from last being brand new and registering late. They didn't quite expect that from me, and I was moved up to like 7th overall in the next day's re-seed.
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Nov 12, 2013 04:28
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FogHelmut posted:I have a Yakima round bar setup, but it's noisy as hell, even with the fairing. And it kills my MPG's so I don't use it unless I have to. I need to clear out some closet space, and was thinking about getting something I could leave on all the time without the noise or MPG hit. The OEM aero bars look a bit flimsy. Maybe these Malones are what I need? I've never had just the bars up and no cargo basket so I don't really know how noisy they are alone. They're actually made out of really stiff plastic from what I can tell, but seem sturdy and I'd guess they're stronger overall than the aero bars. Not sure on gas mileage either as the basket is so useful I just leave it on all the time and don't worry about it.
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Nov 12, 2013 04:33
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the milk machine posted:So if my oil level stays within range (the light on the dash is too late right? heh) and I'm not hearing anything weird from the axles/suspension I should be good to go? What should I be listening for, clunks, squeaks, etc? I'm still going to have my mechanic look at it and quote it, but if so, that's good to know. Yeah, check oil level every fill up (it's good practice to do so anyway but I haven't seem many other people do so, sometimes get weird looks at the gas station but w/e) and top up as necessary, and as for what you're listening for, it'll sound like clicking. Just found this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0pEp3yVS4o should give you an idea of what it would sound like when it starts going bad. Axles are pretty easy to change out on them too, should be able to find a guide online to follow without much issue. If your mechanic gives you an agreeable price then could just get him to do it for convenience. Modding is loads of fun, especially on a turbo subie, just have a goal in mind before starting and stick to it. Lots of people end up with a poorly running car (and an empty wallet) by not researching how mods work together or just randomly throwing parts at their cars. NASIOC is filled with info and idiots, but it's not too hard to navigate through. Most people here would probably be able to help with wading through the bullshit and help you with getting into playing with mods.
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Nov 12, 2013 06:22
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Re: Overly stiff ride on my WRX. I had a quick eyeball under the arches, but nothing particularly stood out to me as looking modified, neither the springs nor the dampers are a zany "aftermarket" colour, or carrying any stickers/branding, it's all just slightly grubby black components. Of course, that doesn't mean anything for sure, but I'm guessing most non-standard suspension kit would err towards a less subtle appearance. I had a chat with a local Subaru specialist, and they agreed it sounds like it's not quite riding as well as it should, but of course I can't expect a diagnosis over the phone. When I get a chance (hopefully later this week) I'll pay them a visit and see what they say - I think at this stage, what I really need is someone who's been around the cars all day every day to just take a ride and give me an opinion.
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Nov 12, 2013 07:58
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At that mileage my first suggestion would be new struts. What's the ride height like? Pretty low or over an inch from the tire to the fender arch? Many stiffer and lower springs are bright colored but there are also some plain black ones out there. Or the stock springs could be cut. Or it could just be normal. A wrx, especially outside the US (we got softened down mush), comes with stiffer suspension. The stuff on an sti is fairly uncomfortable and some of the jdm/euro/aus cars come with suspension that is pretty similar.
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Nov 12, 2013 08:21
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Could be alignment as well. e: sorry if you mentioned this already but does it pull at all one way or the other while driving on the highway?
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Nov 12, 2013 08:49
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Ride height looks standard to me, and I had the place I bought it from take it for an alignment before I picked it up (it had a bit of a pull to the left originally), but I'm afraid I don't have any numbers in what it's running.
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Nov 12, 2013 10:11
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So, AWD is a new and exciting world for me. Do I need to be concerned about running 3 tires with 60-80% tread left alongside one almost-new tire for winter? I've got a line on two separate deals for winter tires, one awesomely cheap set of 3 and a single like-new Blizzak. Unrelated: Is mix and matching brands/tread patterns bad? The winters aren't terrible here, I've managed to survive every year in a 2WD Ranger, so I'm not concerned with traction so much as unusual mechanical wear and tear.
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Nov 12, 2013 14:37
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Short answer is that you don't want to run tires of different tread depth at all. Here is more on the subject by tirerack: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18
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Nov 12, 2013 14:51
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Yakattak posted:Does anyone know if a Turbo XS axle back will fit my 3" JNA/Gimmick catback? No one had a rough idea? I'm just not sure how mixing exhausts works.
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Nov 12, 2013 15:00
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Fifty Three posted:So, AWD is a new and exciting world for me. Do I need to be concerned about running 3 tires with 60-80% tread left alongside one almost-new tire for winter? I've got a line on two separate deals for winter tires, one awesomely cheap set of 3 and a single like-new Blizzak. Yes and yes. AWD has a center differential that lets the driveshaft to the front and the driveshaft to the rear spin at different speeds, and that's what makes it different from 4WD. However, it doesn't like to do large speed differences for a long time, which is what you would be doing if you put one larger tire on. The center diff is going to burn up, and that's inside the transmission assembly so it's not cheap to replace.
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Nov 12, 2013 15:04
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I have a question about the most newbie of "mods" possible. I ordered 2 fumoto valves for my 12 Impreza and my wife's 14 Outback, following the model # guidelines on the fumoto website. Beyond "replace drain plug with fumoto valve" during the oil change I have planned for Thursday, do I need to be concerned about X or do Y? Super basic I know but keeping oil in the engine is important 
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Nov 12, 2013 15:10
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I saw a guy use airplane lock wire to hold his Fumoto handle in place but I think that's overkill. You should be fine. Just make sure you use a fresh crush washer and tighten it enough.
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Nov 12, 2013 15:28
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Totally TWISTED posted:I have a question about the most newbie of "mods" possible. I ordered 2 fumoto valves for my 12 Impreza and my wife's 14 Outback, following the model # guidelines on the fumoto website. Beyond "replace drain plug with fumoto valve" during the oil change I have planned for Thursday, do I need to be concerned about X or do Y? I have a Fumoto valve on my '12 Impreza, the one with the tip for attaching a hose. It is nice because the oil pan design shoots the oil out at massive velocities. I have never made a mess changing oil on any other car, but removing the drain plug from my Impreza for the first time managed to be a disaster. I'm not even kidding, if you haven't done it before, be careful. It's almost comical.
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Nov 12, 2013 15:44
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Yakattak posted:No one had a rough idea? I'm just not sure how mixing exhausts works. It depends. A lot of the older TXS stuff was proprietary length and probably wouldn't fit. If it is newer, it might fit. In the worst case you could always have it cut and welded. Most exhaust shops would do it on the cheap, as it won't be very involved. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 15:45
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I have an 07 Impreza auto base model with 135k miles and I am going to change out the timing belt, tb tensioner/belts etc , when I get a chance at the end of the month. Should I change out the (original) waterpump too since I'm there?
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Nov 12, 2013 17:50
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Bajaha posted:I wish my local market had these prices. Up here they're around 9k - 10k and most have suffered some form of molestation. If it's not loosing an appreciable amount of oil between changes and the axles aren't making noise and you're planning on full replacement axles anyway then I don't see why you couldn't just wait the winter out and do those things yourself in the spring/early summer when it gets nice enough to work on it, would save you some cash for sure. If you want to get some more excitement out of it, and spend the money you'd save by going the DIY route, it's fairly easy to do some basic mods and a AP tune and there's always some cheap used performance parts on NASIOC for just a little more oomph. Plus you've mentioned you like the car so might as well keep it and play around with it.
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Nov 12, 2013 18:08
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In my 09 wrx the auto climate control acts weird in my opinion. Today while driving, it's 40f out and the temp setting to maintain is about 65f. Half the time the a/c is on. Why is the car not just using ambient air to cool? It does work well holding temp so I really can't complain.
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Nov 12, 2013 18:12
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My brother's 2002 Legacy Outback 2.5L shot the front passenger spark plug out and stripped the threads in the head. It has 150k miles on it and otherwise drives ok, minus needing brakes and a blown power steering pump. Is this a common issue? How expensive would this be for a mechanic to fix on a subie? I assume the engine has to come out to get to it?
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Nov 12, 2013 19:22
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I've heard of other kinds of cars getting a helicoil or timesert or similar for the spark plug hole. I assume any machine shop would be able to do it, or most mechanics. I'm guessing it would be easiest if the engine came out so the head could be removed easily. Might as well pop the engine out and do the head gaskets while it's out to avoid that problem in the future (see the OP).
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Nov 12, 2013 19:24
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An Alternative would be to buy a used set of heads off Craig's list. Most EJ25 engines (if not all) between 2000 and 2004 use the same SOHC heads.
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Nov 12, 2013 19:32
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On an SOHC you can pull the heads with the engine in the car if you want. That's probably how I would do it unless you want to give the engine a complete refresh- timing stuff, both headgaskets, new seals everywhere etc.
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Nov 12, 2013 19:32
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SafetySeatSwitch their website suggests hose clamps to hold it closed if you do spirited driving or somesuch but yeah I don't see a need for my uses.FogHelmut posted:I have a Fumoto valve on my '12 Impreza, the one with the tip for attaching a hose. It is nice because the oil pan design shoots the oil out at massive velocities. I have never made a mess changing oil on any other car, but removing the drain plug from my Impreza for the first time managed to be a disaster. I'm not even kidding, if you haven't done it before, be careful. It's almost comical. I have changed the oil before so I have experienced this myself, you aren't lying 
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Nov 12, 2013 19:44
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Thanks for the advice. His car has not been very well maintained over the years and has some body damage on the side from a deer. I think he wants to just get it running again and sell it for whatever he can get for it and buy something that hopefully has been better taken care of. He knows it's his fault for not maintaining it. I don't have time to rip into the engine myself and he's not as mechanically inclined, so I'll have him call up some shops and get quotes. I just wanted to make sure I know what the mechanic is getting into. I assumed they would have to pull the engine to repair the threads. Any idea how long that might take? At $80 per hour or whatever the current rate is, I assume it's going to be in the $1,200-$1,500 range at a mechanic for labor and parts, which would basically total the car.
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Nov 12, 2013 19:59
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I think the book to pull an EJ25 is around 7 hours, but that's just what I've heard second hand.
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Nov 12, 2013 20:04
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From AllData: 2002 Outback 2.5 Engine Replacement Complete Assembly Without Transfer Of Parts - 5.9 Hours With Auto Trans - Add 0.8 Hours That being said, it should be possible to do a thread insert without pulling the engine if he just wants it back on the road as cheaply as possible.
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Nov 12, 2013 20:11
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Alphius posted:From AllData: Don't bring it to the dealer then (or any shop that uses flat rate), because they will most likely charge the book rate to remove the engine and the heads regardless of how the tech actually does it.
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Nov 12, 2013 20:43
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Yeah, and book time to remove and replace a head in-car is 9.8 hours. Even worse.
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Nov 12, 2013 20:49
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Dr.Caligari posted:I have an 07 Impreza auto base model with 135k miles and I am going to change out the timing belt, tb tensioner/belts etc , when I get a chance at the end of the month. Should I change out the (original) waterpump too since I'm there? Yes, you would be crazy not to.
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Nov 12, 2013 21:09
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Dr.Caligari posted:I have an 07 Impreza auto base model with 135k miles and I am going to change out the timing belt, tb tensioner/belts etc , when I get a chance at the end of the month. Should I change out the (original) waterpump too since I'm there? Buy the kit from Function Auto (jamal). It has all the tensioners, idlers and water pump.
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Nov 13, 2013 06:14
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blindjoe posted:Buy the kit from Function Auto (jamal). It has all the tensioners, idlers and water pump. This is correct! Also Jamal I'll be buying those suspensions goodies we talked about waaaay back around the first of the year after my bank account recovers from fuel system purchases, Xmas, and moving.
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Nov 13, 2013 15:59
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Today is the first day under 40 degrees since I got my 13 WRX hatch. FOr whatever reason, the clutch pedal isn't as smooth on the let out as usual. It feels ( ableit slight ) that the slave cylinder is trying to stick little by little as I let it out. Does that set off any alarm bells to you guys?
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Nov 13, 2013 18:04
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Farking Bastage posted:Today is the first day under 40 degrees since I got my 13 WRX hatch. FOr whatever reason, the clutch pedal isn't as smooth on the let out as usual. It feels ( ableit slight ) that the slave cylinder is trying to stick little by little as I let it out. On my 99 Maxima when it was below 30 F the clutch pedal felt gummy. My Subaru is pretty tactile but the cold wreaks havoc on how these cars feel/sound to be honest. If it acts like that when warm I'd be a little more concerned. I drive a Bugeye though so I'm not sure what newer gen drivers feel.
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Nov 13, 2013 18:20
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Ok, I took the WRX to a local specialist for them to have a look over it, and they say that everything on it is A-ok, save for the tyre pressures indeed being about 10% high (my pressure gauge showed them as being right, so clearly the number of times I've dropped or otherwise battered it have take their toll on its accuracy). The slight drop has made a minor improvement in the choppiness, but other than that, it looks like I will prescribe myself a dose of man the gently caress up and get used to it. TBH I think a large chunk of the issue is phsychological, because of the car being quite noisy, so I'll go ahead with my plan to upgrade the sound deadening and insulation, and it'll probably be better once spring comes around and I put some decent summer tyres on (Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 is looking like my probable choice, but plenty of time to ruminate on that). Incidentally, the car's running zero front camber, which susprised me, I'd have thought there'd be at least a little bit of negative on it. Not really important for now, but I might get them to dial it in for me when I put some proper tyres on it.
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Nov 13, 2013 18:24
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| # ? May 21, 2024 18:27 |
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Someone who shall not be named (not me) backed my 2010 outback into the trash can the other night. It put a crack in the plastic panel on the rear hatch a on one of the flat regions below the window. It's a fairly clean crack and not near an edge or a contour, but it did pop one side of the crack under the other so I need to pop it back out, and then seal it up against water, I think it'll be pretty much invisible then. I'm assuming the right way to get at the back side of that crack is by taking the panels off the inside of the hatch? Where do I even start? I can post a picture of the location if needed.
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Nov 13, 2013 22:17
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