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BlitzBlast posted:MG Ex-S is famous for being a complicated build, not for being particularly good. There's a reason it comes with a base; it's almost incapable of standing on its own. Yeah I've got a huge love for the Katoki suits, and I'm still convinced the the MG Nu Ver Ka is one of the best suits. If I could ever justify it or find cheap like I did my SoC God Mars I'd get the HG Dendrobium Stamen in a heartbeat. I appreciate the feedback, chances are unless we find a good deal, looks like the Sazabi is it.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:28
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You know, despite the obvious flaws inherent in the Ex-S and the FAZZ, I still really really want both. I got an S Gundam about four years ago or so now and it's still probably one of my favorite builds ever, if just because the finished product is so huge and beautiful. I love those bulky-rear end post-Zeta suits, and I wish they'd make more of them instead of focusing on the smaller stuff all the time. As an aside, though, gently caress dry-rub application decals and the guy who invented them. I started decal work on my MG Epyon today, and holy poo poo, all the dry-apply decals on curved surfaces work that it expects me to do is infuriating. The Sinanju Stein that I've had sitting unbuilt for the longest time came with some nice waterslide decals, why can't everything else, Bandai? 
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Nov 13, 2013 02:36
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S-Alpha posted:You know, despite the obvious flaws inherent in the Ex-S and the FAZZ, I still really really want both. I got an S Gundam about four years ago or so now and it's still probably one of my favorite builds ever, if just because the finished product is so huge and beautiful. I love those bulky-rear end post-Zeta suits, and I wish they'd make more of them instead of focusing on the smaller stuff all the time. Yeah I had a few of those motherfuckers on my Destiny and the angles on the wings and sheild were a nightmare.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:39
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Bimmi posted:Absolutely incredible buildup of the MG Nu ver.Ka. That is a bad as poo poo build but it is waaaaaaay past the point at which it stops being fun to do.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:46
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Midjack posted:That is a bad as poo poo build but it is waaaaaaay past the point at which it stops being fun to do. I wish the rainbow accents on the funnels were standard equipment, though. Hell, any piece of rainbow accent on an MS would be nice.
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Nov 13, 2013 03:02
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S-Alpha posted:You know, despite the obvious flaws inherent in the Ex-S and the FAZZ, I still really really want both. I got an S Gundam about four years ago or so now and it's still probably one of my favorite builds ever, if just because the finished product is so huge and beautiful. I love those bulky-rear end post-Zeta suits, and I wish they'd make more of them instead of focusing on the smaller stuff all the time. What you don't like rub ons and your one shot of getting them on correctly, and if you gently caress up you've ruined the decal and the paint job on that part? They look nice if you get them right, but bandai, water slides are better in every way, give us those.
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Nov 13, 2013 03:57
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Water slides take more time and money to make. If you want em, you'll have to buy them separately. 
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Nov 13, 2013 04:01
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God drat it another piece of the Nu ver. Ka broke tonight. gently caress it, I need to shove it on a shelf and never touch the thing again, it's got tons of fragile little bits to break, especially with the transformation parts on the forearms. What's the best adhesive for these things? At this point I really can't recommend the Nu version Ka to anyone who likes to play around with their kits even a little bit. I'm probably cursed from the start, given my heavy hands coupled with hand tremors, but the trade-off for the articulation that this kit has is definitely that it's fragile as gently caress. I need to make my next kit a sturdy one without all this gimmicky poo poo to break.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:33
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Well it depends. Cement is good when you want to permanently join pieces together, but it isn't going to look nice. Neither is superglue, but such is how it goes.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:46
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Man I'm sorry to hear that.  To be honest the Nu vKa isn't that particularly fragile of a kit (especially compared to the Unicorn, which falls apart in your hands if you try to pose it in Destroy Mode), but considering your condition I apologize for recommending it to you in the first place. The Sazabi vKa will likely be more of the same, so you should probably pass on that too.And yeah, there's no easy repair tool. The best you can do is cement > prime > paint, but needless to say that is kind of a hassle. EDIT: If you want a sturdier kit, then definitely look for a MG with no gimmicks whatsoever. Anything from the recent Wing EW/Seed vRM sets should do just fine (though they're admittedly on the small side as far as MGs go), with MG Duel Assault and MG Tallgeese being the stand outs IMO. 00 Raiser/SS are another option (slightly gimmicky with the binders/swords all over, but nothing nearly as bad as a full body transformation), though if you get them be prepared to shell out extra for LED units. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 05:48
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I've cemented broken parts and sanded the join smooth before. It doesn't look too bad, really. I've got fat flippin' fingers and a shake myself, but I can still do the fiddly kits okay. It's more a matter of getting a feel for despruing and placing fragile parts than anything else, which is a skill best practiced on simpler kits (I don't buy the widespread notion that MGs are no harder to build than HGs… they ARE more difficult, and smaller more fragile pieces is a big reason why) What broke and how did it break, if I might ask? Bimmi fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 08:12
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I recently purchased the kotobukiya jehuty hd edition, and i was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to panel line it so that i can get the green glowing effect from the games.
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Nov 14, 2013 08:45
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Bimmi posted:(I don't buy the widespread notion that MGs are no harder to build than HGs… they ARE more difficult, and smaller more fragile pieces is a big reason why) If you're talking about RGs, sure, but "small" for a MG is usually about the size of the average HG piece. There's the occasional marvel of parts separation (like the Impulse's teensy tiny yellow piece in the knees), but those aren't particularly fragile; they're made out of the same plastic as everything else after all. There are exceptions to the rule, of course, but in the end the only difference between the average HG and the average MG is that the latter has more parts. Droyer posted:I recently purchased the kotobukiya jehuty hd edition, and i was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to panel line it so that i can get the green glowing effect from the games. Not really familiar with the design, but are you sure you want the panel lines to glow and not the whole thing? Anyways, panel wash some silver and then follow it up with some clear green. Alternatively panel wash gloss black and follow that with metallic green. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 09:20
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I still don't buy it. MGs absolutely do have more small parts than HGs that are sometimes quite easy to break if you don't know what you're doing, and they also as a rule have assembly sequences that are considerably more complex than anything you'll find in the lower grades. I've built enough of both to confidently say that yes, they are definitely harder to build, and no way would I recommend that someone brand new to the hobby start off with one, especially some nutso bleeding-edge thing like the Nu vK. And I wouldn't normally care what people thought was or wasn't harder, but telling newbies that MGs and HGs all require identical skill levels to tackle is just plain bad advice, and I've seen enough "I hosed up my MG" posts in the various versions of this thread to be quite clear on this. I mean, this guy is having problems with his Nu that he likely wouldn't face with something simpler so even implying that all MGs are identical in terms of challenge is pretty misleading, IMO. edit: just gonna leave these here – I'd say there's a difference that goes beyond "more parts," especially for someone who's never built one before:   (I almost went with HGUC Nu vs. Nu ver.Ka, because it would have been hilarious, but not exactly fair I suppose) edit x2: hah, this one is even better:  
Bimmi fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 11:43
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Bimmi posted:I've cemented broken parts and sanded the join smooth before. It doesn't look too bad, really. I25 on the right arm. The elbow side of the transforming armor on the forearm. The piece has sort of a Y shape, and one of the side pieces snapped off. Honestly, if I can fuse it back into place, it'll probably look fine, and I plan on keeping it with the psychoframe pieces exposed anyway. I vastly prefer the master grade kits, though. I think the extra detail and occasional gimmicky bits are definitely worth the complexity of building them, and the size agrees better with my own bulky design as well. But back to the broken bit- it's a tiny break, and on the internal side of the armor piece, so if I can find a way to fuse it, it's likely no one would notice. I suppose I'll have to clamp it, though.
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Nov 14, 2013 14:39
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Bimmi posted:I mean, this guy is having problems with his Nu that he likely wouldn't face with something simpler so even implying that all MGs are identical in terms of challenge is pretty misleading, IMO. I just said that there are exceptions though. If you're seriously going to consider the Nu vKa (a vKa kit with a full body transformation, a brand new intricate hand system, and a really fussy funnel connection mechanic) in any way the baseline for an average MG, you're being really disingenuous. quote:edit: just gonna leave these here – I'd say there's a difference that goes beyond "more parts," especially for someone who's never built one before: Not only are you comparing the Gundam 3.0 (which was explicitly an attempt to push things to the limit on the MG scale) to the HG G30th Gundam (which is infamous for being a very simple to build kit to the point it's even in a special beginner set), you're overlooking one major little detail:  This is the size of the completed HG.  This is the size of the completed MG. Those ridiculously small parts you're making an example of? Yeah on average they're about the size of those HG parts. You just can't tell because dalong does not exactly make a habit of comparing grades in his piece breakdowns. quote:edit x2: hah, this one is even better: No it's not because the MG Geara Doga is loving huge.  I mean in the end how "hard" a kit is to build is entirely subjective, and modern HGs and MGs continue to push the limits so the definition of an "average" kit is getting increasingly vaguer. But you can not seriously argue that there is a giant leap in difficulty between HGs and MGs when ultimately you do the exact same thing for both of them (cut pieces off of runner, denub, assemble) only the latter has more pieces to cut off and is x1.5 bigger. One of the main appeals of Gunpla is how ridiculously simple it is after all. Now RGs, gently caress them. Those are hard and legitimately have all the faults you're attributing to MGs. I know a guy who literally couldn't build his RG Gundam because the pieces were just too small, but won a set of MGs off that gundam info contest and is happily building away. The Muffinlord posted:But back to the broken bit- it's a tiny break, and on the internal side of the armor piece, so if I can find a way to fuse it, it's likely no one would notice. I suppose I'll have to clamp it, though. Oh if that's the case, plastic cement should work just fine. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 17:12
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HGs are deffinatly more noobie friendly. A lot simpler and easier to work on. MGs while technically require the same "skills" they are a lot more involved, but they give a much better product. I find the MGs to be easier to work on as the parts are bigger than HG parts most of the time. And RGs, im not a huge fan. They are just too small for how complex they are.
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Nov 14, 2013 17:57
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Let's put it this way: HGs are standardized and simple enough that I could (and have) put one together without ever looking at the manual. I wouldn't try the same thing with an MG. And it's not just size of the parts, but how they go together and the complexity of the assemblies they form. I''ve never had any particular problem getting an HG-class kit together but I could name a few MG kits which caused me no little frustration at certain points in their construction, and many more which required very careful attention to what I was doing. There IS a difficulty curve there, whether you choose to acknowledge it or not. Also, if you can look at that second set of pics and say that the only difference is the size of the model then I really don't know what to tell you. And if you really think the 3.0 is particularly complex compared to most other "average" MGs of recent years in construction or parts breakdown (it's not) then there are dozens more examples out there one could use to illustrate the point. Again, I don't really care whether you or any other Joe Gunplar believe that there's no real difference between grades, I care about the poor bastard upthread who's currently loving up a $100+ model because he wasn't ready for it yet. When I see (too many) people say "MGs are just as easy as HGs" and then see posts like his, it pisses me off. Don't give newbies lovely, biased, short-sighted advice is all I'm saying here.
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Nov 14, 2013 18:09
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Hey now, the only thing I wasn't ready for was the articulated hands, the funnels, and the transformation stuff. I like a lot of things about the kit, I just pressed too hard on one side of the forearm and a piece snapped. It's also been half a day so I'm a lot less mad. 
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Nov 14, 2013 18:31
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Uh, are you having another bad day? I apologized for recommending the Nu vKa, which again is pretty intricate as far as MGs go. I didn't know about Muffinlord's condition, or I never would have recommended it in the first place until he got more comfortable with the hobby. You're pretty much taking your personal experiences and assuming they apply to everyone. Which is fine, since I'm doing the same thing. We can keep this argument going forever and hope the other guy backs down at some point, but I get the feeling that neither of us want the thread to turn into that. Let's just agree to disagree. Just one thing: quote:And if you really think the 3.0 is particularly complex compared to most other "average" MGs of recent years in construction or parts breakdown (it's not) You can not actually be serious here. Compare the 3.0 to the Aile Strike vRM. Both are modern MGs, and if you think the 3.0 is in any way close to the Strike in complexity I don't know what to say. The 3.0 was explicitly an attempt to update the MG RX-78-2 with all of the recent advances in MG engineering, including RG color separation, RG parts separation, the Emotion Manipulators, LED units, and the Destiny kits' movable inner frames. There's a lot of stuff in that package (to the point they actually had to put some of the armor in the frame itself to get everything to fit), so I'd say it's pretty complex! EDIT: V Okay seriously dude, stop being so passive aggressive. It's really not winning you any favors. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 18:33
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The Muffinlord posted:Hey now, the only thing I wasn't ready for was the articulated hands, the funnels, and the transformation stuff. I like a lot of things about the kit, I just pressed too hard on one side of the forearm and a piece snapped. It's also been half a day so I'm a lot less mad. Glad to hear that, but as I said I've seen too many "I bought this MG and broke it and now I've had to glue its leg to its rear end" type posts over the years to have much patience for those who insist that a raw beginner should just jump into some of the most complex kits this hobby has to offer. I almost never hear of anyone having to glue their HG's leg to its rear end, you know? BlitzBlast posted:You can not actually be serious here. Yup. It's only "more parts" as you might say, from a user-end perspective it's not significantly more complicated than the general MG average of the last 10 years (and I'd say the Strike's breakdown is considerably simpler than average, for whatever reason) But, whatever. I've made my point, you're clearly not going to be swayed one way or another, and getting into dumb slapfights with you is easily my second-least favorite new activity of 2013. Just gonna leave it there. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 18:37
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In my youth I smashed the leg of my PG Zeta right at the hip joint and failed in every attempt to glue it back together. That's why I quit building before, and I'm promising myself that I won't let myself get that careless ever again. It's also why I'd like another PG Zeta, since I feel like I need to do right by the kit now that I'm hopefully a bit more responsible. The Nu ver. Ka has a lot going for it. The joints on it are articulated like nothing I've ever seen, and are all insanely sturdy. The legs are nice and sleek, the feet hold it well, it's got a ton of accessories, and the articulation lets you strike some really nice poses. Putting the mount for the stand so that it braces on both the back and the backpack was genius and holds it there with ease. But those hands are nuts and you are going to find yourself missing knuckles if you don't pose them with tweezers. I just ordered some future shine, plastic cement, and a brush kit. I won't be able to do much this weekend but once everything arrives I'll try to set aside an afternoon and coat the hands before I swallow a pinky or something.
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Nov 14, 2013 18:46
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The Muffinlord posted:God drat it another piece of the Nu ver. Ka broke tonight. gently caress it, I need to shove it on a shelf and never touch the thing again, it's got tons of fragile little bits to break, especially with the transformation parts on the forearms. What's the best adhesive for these things? I feel your pain brother.  - Woot, after four long days I have finally completed the RX-93-Nu2 Hi-Nu Gundam! Woot.*Trips standing up to move it*  - Motherfuck! The goddamned AB joint broke? That peg is thicker than my goddamned finger! YOU FUCKER!
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Nov 14, 2013 19:17
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It's amazing how easy it is to break joints on those larger models. Sometimes I'll pre-break and reinforce them just so I won't have to deal with it later. Sometimes that's easier said than done. The hips on my The-O are almost certainly going to crack apart at some point, but given their design I'm not real sure how to shore them up just yet. Not sure what to do about my Gundam ver.OYW either, which is already on its second set of hips. edit: vvv I'm of the opinion that one should keep at least two airbrushes - a simple, easily-cleaned one for priming and overall coverage and a fancy one for shading and detail work. Good airbrushes and their parts ain't cheap, and those parts WILL wear out over time. Also, listen to what this man says regarding spray masks: I once airbrushed a model in a closed garage and was literally snotting cyanine pthalo blue acrylic for the next three days. Did myself no favors with that smooth move, I'm sure. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 19:22
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jhorphear posted:i was thinking about getting this kit http://www.amazon.com/PAASCHE-AIRBRUSH-Quiet-BRUSH-COMPRESSOR/dp/B001CEEWX4/ref=sr_1_39?ie=UTF8&qid=1384199603&sr=8-39&keywords=airbrush+kit This is all based on my experience as an airbrush noob working on a resin kit. Beginner airbrushes are forgiving about settings, but in exchange have a fairly large minimum spray pattern. That can be a problem on something the size of a Gundam kit without extensive masking. The finer, detail-oriented brushes are much more finicky, particularly about regulator pressure and paint thinning. The needles are also more fragile. But you're going to end up wanting a detail brush eventually. Or not; I used mine mainly for shading and shadowing, which you might not need to do on gunpla. For Paasche, check out the V series or the Millennium. The internals are the same (aside from the VJR, which is the detail brush), they just differ on how the paint cup attaches. Another brush I've had good experience with is the Badger 100 series. I found it easier to disassemble and clean compared to the Paasches. For compressors, a reservoir tank is nice but not strictly necessary. A quick disconnect coupling on the hose is also nice. A pressure regulator and moisture trap is mandatory though. Those are frequently a single unit; you can see one mounted on the compressor in the link you posted. A cardboard box works to catch overspray. Whatever you're spraying, wear a respirator. It's not about acrylics being less toxic than lacquers. It's about your lungs not working after you coat them with paint.
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Nov 14, 2013 19:23
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Just my two cents, I have a Badger Patriot 105 and while it works fine and I'm happy with its performance, it has an annoying tendency to do... something that makes the paint in the tip dry out really fast and clog or something, which I usually can fix by triggering it several times so it hawks the dry paint loogie out of the tip. It's pretty annoying and I'm not sure what causes it. My paint is thinned properly and I'm using the correct pressure, so I dunno what the gently caress. This is all with acrylic paint, either Createx or Liquitex brand, does anyone know what causes this or how to fix it?
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Nov 14, 2013 19:33
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Acrylics tend to dry and clog airbrush tips, it's just the nature of the beast unfortunately. This can be offset to some extent by mixing a drop of dishwashing detergent into the paint or adding an acrylic retardant solution to inhibit drying (this may also help produce smoother coats) but I don't think there's a 100% fix for the issue. Keep an alcohol swab handy and clean the tip frequently. (acrylics suck in lots of ways, but given that lacquer is literally cancer in a jar it's not like we have great choices here)
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Nov 14, 2013 19:38
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Quote is not Edit, have this sweet Zugock instead:
Bimmi fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 19:39
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Bimmi posted:Acrylics tend to dry and clog airbrush tips, it's just the nature of the beast unfortunately. I kind of figured this was the case, but it doesn't hurt to ask, you know? I do have some retardant and tried it at one point but it didn't make much difference. I'll pick up some alcohol for the tip though, I never even thought about that. If I just had a more open workspace with some ventilation I'd basically only use enamels, but at the moment acrylics are the only real option I have. And that Zugock is pretty sweet. I've always liked the weirder grunt enemy suits but never really got around to picking up any kits. The weirdest I have right now is my Palace Athene, and that's not really all that odd anyways.
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Nov 14, 2013 19:50
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Are there any airbrush sets out there that come with a good brush and decent compressor for 100-120 bucks? The only things I see on Amazon are like these three brush MASTER PRO sets.
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Nov 14, 2013 21:37
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Bimmi posted:It's amazing how easy it is to break joints on those larger models. Sometimes I'll pre-break and reinforce them just so I won't have to deal with it later. Yeah, well, leaving it on my floor wasn't smart, and falling out of my chair was simply the straw. One day I'll build another, take the armor off half of it, and put it on a shelf. I also had to cement the leg of a Gouf kit together, and stripped the screw on one joint to boot. In fact, I think almost all my old kits suffered some sort of career-ending injury and got thrown away. Others got swallowed in the maelstrom that was my room at my parents house and disappeared. I've got a lot of sins to make up for, and a lot of kits to re-purchase.
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Nov 14, 2013 22:16
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Bimmi posted:Quote is not Edit, have this sweet Zugock instead: I always liked the Z'gok but this... this makes me appreciate the Z'gok's true beauty 
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Nov 14, 2013 22:31
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I really, really wish I knew how to make those little notched surface details you see a lot of now. It's right up there with "wish I could paint worth a gently caress."
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Nov 14, 2013 22:35
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muike posted:Are there any airbrush sets out there that come with a good brush and decent compressor for 100-120 bucks? The only things I see on Amazon are like these three brush MASTER PRO sets. If selection is the problem, cut out the middleman and look at TCPGlobal's website directly: http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/. They had google checkout the last time I used it, and they'll do free shipping on airbrush + compressor combos. e: That's what I get for never proofreading. TasogareNoKagi fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 22:48
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That's a great site, thanks. The issue for me is going to be figuring out which brush to get. As long as it's double action I should be fine, I suppose, but that's still a lot of choice.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:45
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Gravity feed, get one with a removable paint cup + a couple extra if you can afford it.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:52
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TasogareNoKagi posted:If selection is the problem, cut out the middleman and look at TCPGlobal's website directly: http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/. They had google checkout the last time I used it, and they'll do free shipping on airbrush + compressor combos. That site seems really overpriced on most items.
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Nov 15, 2013 00:23
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jhorphear posted:That site seems really overpriced on most items. Fine, I'll bite. Overpriced compared to what?
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Nov 15, 2013 17:35
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TasogareNoKagi posted:Fine, I'll bite. Overpriced compared to what? $180+ for a compressor and over $140 for most air brushes is a little pricey. Also over $300 for a spray booth. Maybe they only deal in quality, but fobeginneriner those prices are way too high.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:39
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jhorphear posted:$180+ for a compressor and over $140 for most air brushes is a little pricey. Also over $300 for a spray booth. Maybe they only deal in quality, but fobeginneriner those prices are way too high. Well sure, but why are you going straight to the high end stuff? You don't need a 4 cylinder air compressor or a spray booth the size of desk for painting gunpla. The Paasche VL-SET with all 3 tip sizes plus the starter compressor is $140 total. Which is admittedly a bit beyond muike's price range, but double action airbrushes are complex little bastards 
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Nov 15, 2013 18:33
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