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Summer is rapidly approaching and my old tyres are hosed. Quick tyre question: my rear tyre is 190/50r17. Would it be better or worse if I went to a 190/55r17? 04 ZX10r is the bike.
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Nov 11, 2013 19:57
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:48 |
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If there is clearance, go for it.
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Nov 11, 2013 19:59
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Clearance isn't a problem, I'm more asking how it would change the bike's handling. Wouldn't a 55 sidewall mean the tyre profile is less 'round' and less stretched over the rim?
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Nov 11, 2013 20:25
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Slavvy posted:Clearance isn't a problem, I'm more asking how it would change the bike's handling. Wouldn't a 55 sidewall mean the tyre profile is less 'round' and less stretched over the rim? Pretty noticeable quicker turn-in. Do it.
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Nov 11, 2013 21:41
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So what are the drawbacks if any?
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Nov 11, 2013 21:54
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Slavvy posted:So what are the drawbacks if any? Less straight-line stability, raises the rear (which shifts weight balance / reduces your rake etc), may throw your speedo / odo off, changes your effective gearing, etc etc etc I'm sure a million Ninja owners have tried it and more experienced answers are available on specific fora
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Nov 11, 2013 23:12
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Having gone from 190/50 to 190/55 myself I'm pretty sure just having new not-hosed tires will be a more drastic change than changing to the new profile. I remember thinking it helped the bike turn in quicker but honestly I think I'd need to try a new tire of each profile back to back to really judge the difference.
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Nov 12, 2013 00:10
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Righto. Quick googling indicates that it fucks with the ride height enough to make it a setup issue on the early models like mine so I should probably just stick with the factory profile.
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Nov 12, 2013 00:38
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Ninja 500 won't run past half choke. Carbs are spotless, new pilot screws set to what everyone recommends them be set to (Seat the screw then back out 2.5 turns.) If I give it gas off choke it stays running and revs well, but won't idle. The bike got a full service in 2011 then sat for two years, and wouldn't run off choke when I got it due to a seriously rusty tank and other junk. The only thing I didn't do in the carbs is check the float height. It really shouldn't have moved in two years un-ridden, right?
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Nov 12, 2013 01:28
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I had a similar issue. Bike wouldn't idle without the throttle open or a shitload of choke. Turned out 3 of my valves had <.002" clearance.
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Nov 12, 2013 01:37
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Ninja 500 won't run past half choke. Carbs are spotless, new pilot screws set to what everyone recommends them be set to (Seat the screw then back out 2.5 turns.) If I give it gas off choke it stays running and revs well, but won't idle. Did you ensure your pilot jets are clean? Minimum is you can see through them, ideally new jets. They are really freaking narrow and will clog at the drop of a hat. What happens when you adjust the idle? Black knob between the carbs.
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Nov 12, 2013 01:52
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It's SPOTLESS inside the carbs. Pulled everything, ran guitar string through pilot jets, blew out every nook and cranny. However, I totally spaced re: the presence of the idle knob.  Let's see what that does.edit: lol that totally was it. DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 02:10
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 Checked the valves on my buddy's ninja 250. Noticed some hissing and crappy compression... It was incredibly difficult to remove. What are my options? XYLOPAGUS fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 04:52
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XYLOPAGUS posted:
Helicoil it. Get a very thin ribbon of rag and stuff it into the cylinder bore. Use a tap with lots of grease. Apply helicoil; make sure you recover the tang after you snap it off! Put in the new plug, sell the bike. This method worked for me on a GSX-R250, which has much smaller and more constraining engine environs than an ex250. Or you can do it the hard way, taking the head off etc and keep the bike, I guess.
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Nov 12, 2013 06:20
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:It's SPOTLESS inside the carbs. Pulled everything, ran guitar string through pilot jets, blew out every nook and cranny. This is the poster story for goon carb cleaning. Who just said they cleaned them for the 4th time this month? lol.
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Nov 12, 2013 07:48
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If you're going to keep the bike, use a time-sert. Ten dollars more than Helicoil, but worth it.
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Nov 12, 2013 10:53
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Yeah don't helicoil that poo poo. Timesert it.
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Nov 12, 2013 11:52
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OK. That's what we thought. The bike was used as a mini endurance bike (for just two races) so they will go the fix it and sell it route. We were wondering why it was 6 seconds slower than other 250s....
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Nov 12, 2013 12:56
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Is there any way to fix sun bleached dirt bike plastics? I want to remove some stickers from my drz that lived outside for a while without buying new plastics (because I am so super cheap)
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Nov 12, 2013 16:30
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I had an interesting ride to work this morning. It snowed outside last night and was on the low 20's this morning, but the roads were pretty clear so I went ahead and rode my bike. The bike started up just fine and idled just fine, but about halfway to work I started hearing a high pitched grinding noise, kind of like a warped rotor. I don't think my brakes were frozen or anything, but I'll check that when I get off work. What was really wonky was my tachometer was swinging around madly, levelling off in the redline RPMs. I kept shifting up and hit my highest gear at really low speeds to try to ameliorate it, but that did nothing. I made it to work alright, but I still have to ride home today. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the really low temperatures or whether my clutch got stuck open, or if I have a leaky gasket somewhere. I did notice as I was warming up my bike that there's a small leak in my exhaust that needs patched, it's right before the muffler. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Nov 12, 2013 16:38
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Replace after winter? Sorry for the grime, took pic in the middle of cleaning
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Nov 12, 2013 17:00
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OSU_Matthew posted:I had an interesting ride to work this morning. It snowed outside last night and was on the low 20's this morning, but the roads were pretty clear so I went ahead and rode my bike. The bike started up just fine and idled just fine, but about halfway to work I started hearing a high pitched grinding noise, kind of like a warped rotor. I don't think my brakes were frozen or anything, but I'll check that when I get off work. What was really wonky was my tachometer was swinging around madly, levelling off in the redline RPMs. I kept shifting up and hit my highest gear at really low speeds to try to ameliorate it, but that did nothing. Did you do one long rolling burnout?  Was the engine RPM going up or the tach just going crazy? Could be a bad charging system or low voltage due to the cold causing electrical issues, or it could be something else. M42 posted:Replace after winter? It looks okish to me. Starting to hook a bit but nothing crazy.
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Nov 12, 2013 17:47
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Z3n posted:Did you do one long rolling burnout? Haha, I'm sure that's what the drivers behind me thought this morning. I don't think the tach was giving an accurate reading of the RPMs... if anything, I felt like the bike was running a bit lean and not giving me much power. Then again, I wasn't really pushing the throttle much for fear of an unknown cataclysmic bike failure. Fake Edit: I just went out and took a look at the bike. Starts up and idles just fine, the tach gives a good reading, the hoses all look good and are attached okey dokey as far as I can tell. I did notice an unusual high pitch to the idle, kinda like the a sustained trying to start without gas. According to my odometer I'm probably about to hit reserve, so I switched it over and I'll fill up after work. Otherwise, I took it for a quick spin around the parking lot and everything seems fine for now. The bike does live outside, and the cover had an inch or two of snow on it this morning... could that have possibly affected the temperature/performance of the electrical systems this morning? I can put a multimeter on it when I get home tonight.
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Nov 12, 2013 19:05
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axia posted:Is there any way to fix sun bleached dirt bike plastics? I want to remove some stickers from my drz that lived outside for a while without buying new plastics (because I am so super cheap) You could try a heat gun if it's abs plastic. Like that crazy Greek guy used to refresh his faded top box.
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Nov 12, 2013 21:21
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I used that heat gun trick on the old rear end givi top box I got with my transalp. Works really well, but getting the colour even without sharp heat-fade lines takes a little practice.
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Nov 12, 2013 21:36
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Is there any kind of opinion on continental sport attacks? Or conti tyres in general? I have a mate who can get contis of any model hilariously cheap, and now that my rear tyre has blown up my options are limited financially, but I don't exactly want to buy the European shinko, if that's what they are. The s1000r has sport attacks factory fitted so they can't be that bad. Am I being dumb or should I just get them?
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Nov 12, 2013 22:58
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Slavvy posted:Is there any kind of opinion on continental sport attacks? Or conti tyres in general? I have a mate who can get contis of any model hilariously cheap, and now that my rear tyre has blown up my options are limited financially, but I don't exactly want to buy the European shinko, if that's what they are. In my experience, they're meh tires but they're not dangerous or anything. They've also apparently improved a lot in the last few years cause they just release new compounds and build types rather than doing the "Let's release a new tire model!" thing. Agile development for tires. 
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Nov 12, 2013 23:19
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What are people's feelings on the efficacy of headlight modulators? The PO installed one on my bike but I haven't been using it. One of the issues I have is that it operates off of the high beam switch and has a light sensor so at night the switch turns on the high beams but in day light it's the modulator. I feel like at the times when the modulator should be used the most are also the times when it would be switching between functions (dawn/dusk or similar circumstances). While riding at those times I can't really tell which it's doing unless I'm right up behind somebody and can see the light's reflection. I have found at least one use - I was riding behind a super slow minivan on a windy road. After about 15 minutes I turned the modulator on and the driver immediately pulled over like I was some super unmarked cop.
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Nov 13, 2013 00:07
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Anybody got any spare 25mm valve shims they'd sell me? I need one each in 262, 265, 272, and 280. Could sub a 260 and 270 for the 262 and 272.
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Nov 13, 2013 00:39
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^^^^^ is that the GS500 size? I might have some I can send you... ^^^^Koruthaiolos posted:What are people's feelings on the efficacy of headlight modulators? The PO installed one on my bike but I haven't been using it. One of the issues I have is that it operates off of the high beam switch and has a light sensor so at night the switch turns on the high beams but in day light it's the modulator. I feel like at the times when the modulator should be used the most are also the times when it would be switching between functions (dawn/dusk or similar circumstances). While riding at those times I can't really tell which it's doing unless I'm right up behind somebody and can see the light's reflection. Statistically proven to be one of the most effective things you can do to make yourself more visible. Also sometimes gets bad cop attention, but whatever. I'd run it pretty much all the time if I had one (minus night time, of course).
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Nov 13, 2013 01:16
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OSU_Matthew posted:I had an interesting ride to work this morning. It snowed outside last night and was on the low 20's this morning, but the roads were pretty clear so I went ahead and rode my bike. The bike started up just fine and idled just fine, but about halfway to work I started hearing a high pitched grinding noise, kind of like a warped rotor. I don't think my brakes were frozen or anything, but I'll check that when I get off work. What was really wonky was my tachometer was swinging around madly, levelling off in the redline RPMs. I kept shifting up and hit my highest gear at really low speeds to try to ameliorate it, but that did nothing. Instinct tells me it's the wormgear in your speedo pickup, or the cable itself. My CX500 whined like a crying baby when the speedo was on it's way out. Oh, tachometer. Nevermind, unless it's some funky mechanical tach thing.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:32
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SaNChEzZ posted:Instinct tells me it's the wormgear in your speedo pickup, or the cable itself. My CX500 whined like a crying baby when the speedo was on it's way out. If you have a cable driven tach (I do), check the worm-drive, lube or replace the cable.
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Nov 13, 2013 03:21
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Tamir Lenk posted:If you have a cable driven tach (I do), check the worm-drive, lube or replace the cable. Hmm... I'm starting to suspect it's not just the tach. I ran into the same issue on my way home, where the high pitched grinding noise appears every time I shift past first gear. Simultaneously, the tach shoots up to 6k rpm, and starts swinging back and forth to 12k (redline at 9). Shifting up a gear drops rpms a bit, though they just climb back up. What's really weird is that the noise and high rpms disappear altogether when I brake to slow down, and don't reappear until I shift up or down a gear. When this happens, I feel like I don't get much torque from the engine. Clutch seems fine... does this sounds like a transmission issue? I'd rather not start tearing things apart blindly if anyone can help me narrow it down.
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Nov 13, 2013 03:43
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Got my replacement parts over the weekend and tore the carbs back open. After replacing the destroyed o-rings and float needles, fuel filter, and spark plugs she runs like a top! Quick starts, no stalls, seems to have improved mileage (gauge is just under full with 50 miles on the tank), and I have power under 4000rpm!  Of course, the idle still smells incredibly rich because I didn't remove the pilot mixture screw plugs and verify their settings. I'll deal with that later when it's too cold to ride for a while.Thanks for your advice CA!
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Nov 13, 2013 04:59
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So the eye on the bottom of the rear shock on my Yamaha TT350 started to creak pretty badly, it's the only link in the rear suspension without a grease nipple for some reason so I bombed it with some lithium grease spray. This 95% killed the creak but I noticed if I grab the bottom of the shock and give it a good wiggle there is a little bit of play, maybe about 1 mm. Is this a replace the bushing scenario?
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Nov 13, 2013 05:42
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OSU_Matthew posted:Hmm... I'm starting to suspect it's not just the tach. I ran into the same issue on my way home, where the high pitched grinding noise appears every time I shift past first gear. Simultaneously, the tach shoots up to 6k rpm, and starts swinging back and forth to 12k (redline at 9). Shifting up a gear drops rpms a bit, though they just climb back up. What's really weird is that the noise and high rpms disappear altogether when I brake to slow down, and don't reappear until I shift up or down a gear. When this happens, I feel like I don't get much torque from the engine. Just to be clear, is this just the tachometer dial running up that high and acting crazy, or is the engine racing along with it as well? If it's just the tach, no big deal probably. If the engine is racing up to redline as soon as you get out of first gear you have a serious engine problem and should stop riding until you figure it out. Where is your tachometer driven from, incidentally? And is it a direct cable drive or is there some electronic voodoo along the way?
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Nov 13, 2013 06:18
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Should I start a rebuild thread for an 83 Suzuki GS750 that has been sitting outside for >5 years that I picked up tonight? edit: (will likely be more questions of how to do it than anything else) ChewedFood fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 07:19
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Well yeah.
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Nov 13, 2013 07:42
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Please do, that way I won't have to skim over your posts in other threads. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Nov 13, 2013 07:55
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:48 |
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Sagebrush posted:
Good call... time to start taking the car to work until I can sort this out. The bike is an 85 Honda Nighthawk CB450 and the tach is cable driven so far as I can tell externally. I'll squirt some lube down there and check the worm gear this evening. I haven't disassembled it yet, so there could be some hidden electronic gadgetry in there... I've only owned the bike for a couple of months, so I'm still learning all this as I go. At the speeds which the noise pops up, it's difficult for me to hear what the engine is doing against the wind, but I don't believe the engine is really turning as fast as the tach claims. If anything, I'd say it's a bit lean, but maybe that's just be being afraid to push the bike. The more I think about it, the more the worm gear makes sense...
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Nov 13, 2013 13:10
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