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melon cat posted:I have a really basic question about drilling into drywall. Let's say I'm hanging up a a rack and you're drilling the holes so you can hang the thing up. Are you supposed to drill into the wooden studs behind the drywall, or avoid them? If you're hanging up anything heavier than a basic photograph in a frame, you want to drill and attach into the studs. You can use drywall anchors if you have to put a mounting point in a place with no stud, but attaching to a stud is going to be the strongest way to do it.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:11
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socketwrencher posted:Dumb question: I'm installing a range hood and need to cut a 6" hole in the roof. The roof is pitched, about 3/12. I have access from below as the drywall is not up yet. How would I go about cutting this? I can use a plumb bob to find the center of the hole on the underside of the roof, but I can't just cut the hole based on that center point because the pitch would throw it off, no? You should be able to just trace a circle and use a sawzall to put it the hole. You are going to have a collar around the pipe and need to splice into shingle pattern anyway. The pitch shouldn't screw anything up.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:16
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melon cat posted:I have a really basic question about drilling into drywall. Let's say I'm hanging up a a rack and you're drilling the holes so you can hang the thing up. Are you supposed to drill into the wooden studs behind the drywall, or avoid them? Depends on the thickness of your drywall, type of anchors and what you want to hang up. What kinda of rack is it and how heavy is the item to hang off it.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:18
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spwrozek posted:You should be able to just trace a circle and use a sawzall to put it the hole. You are going to have a collar around the pipe and need to splice into shingle pattern anyway. The pitch shouldn't screw anything up. That really depends on the roof pitch. It could be wildly off if you cut a circle rather than the actual elipse the pipe would pass through in that plane. The easiest way to get close enough is to simply hold the pipe up where you need it (level, so only one edge is touching) and shine a flashlight through the other side. Mark where the light is coming out. Yes, it will be a bit too big. It pretty much needs to be so you can seal and collar it.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:21
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socketwrencher posted:Dumb question: I'm installing a range hood and need to cut a 6" hole in the roof. The roof is pitched, about 3/12. I have access from below as the drywall is not up yet. How would I go about cutting this? I can use a plumb bob to find the center of the hole on the underside of the roof, but I can't just cut the hole based on that center point because the pitch would throw it off, no? 3/12 is not that steep, and you're cutting a hole six inches or less. A little gap is OK, less than an inch, depending on what kind of roof kit you get. When I ran my woodstove chimney, the pitch was a bit steeper than yours, just under 4/12. I plumbed to center it (as you will), then drilled straight up through the sheathing & roof, left the drillbit in place, went up on the roof, and marked off my opening with a Sharpie tied to the drillbit. Watch that your hole overlaps the shingles so that when you install the pipe jack/vent flashing that the shingles above it will overlap it sufficiently.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:52
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melon cat posted:I have a really basic question about drilling into drywall. Let's say I'm hanging up a a rack and you're drilling the holes so you can hang the thing up. Are you supposed to drill into the wooden studs behind the drywall, or avoid them? Drill into the studs; they can support weight far better than the drywall can. If you're just putting up a picture with a lightweight frame then it doesn't matter much, but I generally recommend going for the studs all the time anyway. You can get a stud finder at a hardware store, but my favorite method for finding studs is to use a rare-earth magnet. It'll be attracted to the screws used to secure the drywall to the studs, so you can just run it along the wall until it sticks. Then attack your rack slightly above or below that point (so you don't hit the screw).
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Nov 10, 2013 02:57
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I prefer to find the center of the hole and cut out a circle. Either the pipe will fit or you will have to cut the hole out a bit more. If you are really worried about the hole size and the collar covering it then just cut your pipe at the appropriate angle of the roof and trace around it. Also my favorite way to find studs in a wall is a tape measure. It is very easy.
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Nov 10, 2013 03:45
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spwrozek posted:It is very easy. And a recipe for exasperation in any home of moderate age.
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Nov 10, 2013 05:10
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Any tips for cutting in to plaster and lath for an electrical box? I have a Rotozip but it creates an ungodly amount of dust and even the carbide bits burn up and are expensive. I'd like to put a ceiling lamp in our closet and need to minimize the dust
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Nov 10, 2013 05:56
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Thanks very much to all for the feedback on the vent pipe. I'm going to try the flashlight method first- I'm curious how accurately I can cut that hole. It's true that it doesn't make that much difference since the collar/roof jack will take care of minor inaccuracy, but it's always interesting to hear other perspectives.
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Nov 10, 2013 06:16
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dwoloz posted:Any tips for cutting in to plaster and lath for an electrical box? If you're cutting a hole in the wall, you're gonna get dust. Maybe try cutting from above and taping a bag to the ceiling to catch the dust in? Or run the vacuum right behind your bit to catch the dust as you cut. Also, there are rotozip bits for drywall that are very inexpensive, I think I paid around $10 for a ten pack of bits. They admittedly don't last long, but I think they're much more cost effective than the more expensive one. Just accept that they're going to wear out quickly (they will), and replace as needed.
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Nov 10, 2013 08:18
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spwrozek posted:Also my favorite way to find studs in a wall is a tape measure. It is very easy. Consider yourself lucky. Just yesterday I was hanging something that spans a wall... 16" - 1st stud, 32" - 2nd stud, 48" - no stud, 47" no stud, 49" no stud, 64" no stud, etc. We never did find a stud after 32" until we hit the corner. We even tried measuring off the other corner and nothing. And the room has a double layer of drywall so the stud finder wouldn't detect them either, not even deep scan. We tried tapping with a hammer but that wasn't reliable either.
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Nov 10, 2013 09:37
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Nevermind, didn't realize there was another page.
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Nov 10, 2013 14:59
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dwoloz posted:Any tips for cutting in to plaster and lath for an electrical box? A rotozip is THE tool for this. There's gonna be dust, that's just how anything like that is gonna work. No matter what you do to minimize it the dust will extend throughout your entire house. There is no way around it. So cut all your holes now for any projects you have going on and throw a blanking plate of them if you don't intend to use them for a while. I second the idea of getting a vacuum near the rotozip, although it's not near the bit that you need to worry about - that stuff is mostly gonna fall to the floor. The stuff that really gets flung around comes out of the SIDE of the rotozip. It takes in air for cooling on one side (including plaster dust) and blows it out the other. If you've ever used that rotozip before you can identify this side easily because all manner of stuff is caked on the "vents". I'd be putting the vacuum cleaner hose there. I'd also be using a shop vac with a hose long enough on the output side to get out a window (or a water trap), because vacuum filters seem to do almost nothing for plaster dust.
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Nov 10, 2013 15:24
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socketwrencher posted:Thanks very much to all for the feedback on the vent pipe. I'm going to try the flashlight method first- I'm curious how accurately I can cut that hole. It's true that it doesn't make that much difference since the collar/roof jack will take care of minor inaccuracy, but it's always interesting to hear other perspectives. Oscillating multi-tool is ideal and extremely useful in general. They're available anywhere at lots of price points.
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Nov 10, 2013 16:30
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I recently bought a house. Roof deck looks like it is 1/2" CDX on 24" spans. Should I be worried about walking on the roof, considering I weight north of 300lbs?
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Nov 13, 2013 03:46
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Say you bought trailer with land for $20k and don't want to live there forever. No house payment, no tax, etc and just want it as nice as a apartment... https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=3A06C3429B0A315C!1851&authkey=!AG5jsuYGu1Vw3rQ&v=3 Pro stereo https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=3A06C3429B0A315C!1856&authkey=!AB0XebqxjLh-LEo&v=3 The bad...So I'm going to put 3/8" plywood before putting down vinyl plank throughout the place. There are soft spots in the corners of the osb floor by the tub. Should I care or will the 3/8 be enough? That is the only softer spots I've found. What would I do to repair it properly underneath the wall if I did replace it. https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=3A06C3429B0A315C!1852&authkey=!AO87bvTQ1KZ9LGY&v=3 For electrical plugs and switches. Should I replace the self contained boxes that seem pretty good just yellow and old or go to more a box and switch plate style? Thanks
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Nov 13, 2013 05:07
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sbyers77 posted:I recently bought a house. Roof deck looks like it is 1/2" CDX on 24" spans. Should I be worried about walking on the roof, considering I weight north of 300lbs? Yes. It'll feel like a boxing ring. I'm north of 300-lbs myself, and I beat the poo poo out of my shingles, just walking on them. I hope it's actually at least 5/8"; otherwise, you may hear some crackling, but you won't go through unless you go all Tigger on it. Code didn't permit 1/2" plywood on a 24" span when I was building my garage, unless I ran stringers every 3' between the joists. It was academic, because I went with 3/4" plywood. I tend to overbuild. I also hate the poo poo out of OSB. It should be illegal to use on roofs, kitchens or bathrooms; poo poo gets wet & it's done.
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Nov 13, 2013 06:32
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PainterofCrap posted:Yes. It'll feel like a boxing ring. I'm north of 300-lbs myself, and I beat the poo poo out of my shingles, just walking on them. I hope it's actually at least 5/8"; otherwise, you may hear some crackling, but you won't go through unless you go all Tigger on it. Awesome, thanks for the info. It's definitely 1/2" so I will avoid getting on the roof, or at the very least walk near the rafters if I have to get up there for any reason. (Or really I just need to lose weight!) I just happened to buy some 1/2" plywood for another project, so I tested it's weight bearing ability on the garage floor with some 2x4s 24" apart. Feels like a boxing ring is exactly correct, although it is amazing how resilient it really is.
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Nov 14, 2013 02:21
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I've got a concrete block wall at the back of a small addition. There's a hill of sorts that slopes down toward the addition, where it hits a retaining wall, and then there's a flat 3' wide dirt "walkway" between the retaining wall and the concrete wall. Under this walkway is a french drain that seems to work- water does not pond and the ground doesn't stay wet after rain. The paneling was removed from the back wall of the addition because my sister wanted drywall instead. So the studs are exposed and there's about a 2" gap between the studs and the block wall. Is there any value in coating the interior side of the block wall with Drylock or something similar? While there's no sign of water damage anywhere, we wouldn't mind coating it now while the walls are open even if it's overkill. Also, there's no insulation. The block wall was put together poorly so it's not flush- different courses jut out an inch or 2 here and there. So I don't how well foam board would adhere and it certainly wouldn't lay flat against the wall. Lastly, mastic or tar or something seems to have been applied to the exterior side of the block wall a while ago. It's peeling off. Should this be scraped and recoated? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated- thanks so much.
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Nov 14, 2013 08:01
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socketwrencher posted:The paneling was removed from the back wall of the addition because my sister wanted drywall instead. So the studs are exposed and there's about a 2" gap between the studs and the block wall. Is there any value in coating the interior side of the block wall with Drylock or something similar? While there's no sign of water damage anywhere, we wouldn't mind coating it now while the walls are open even if it's overkill. This wall is above ground? If so, there's little value in dryloc other than as a vapor barrier. socketwrencher posted:Also, there's no insulation. The block wall was put together poorly so it's not flush- different courses jut out an inch or 2 here and there. So I don't how well foam board would adhere and it certainly wouldn't lay flat against the wall. Add a vapor barrier of your choice (could be as simple as tyvec stapled/glued/whatever you need to do to get it) on the outside of the studs and put in R-13 fiberglass. It's the correct thickness for 2x4 bays and its very inexpensive as compared to 2" rigid foam board (which is what you would need to achieve R 13). socketwrencher posted:Lastly, mastic or tar or something seems to have been applied to the exterior side of the block wall a while ago. It's peeling off. Should this be scraped and recoated? If it's above the soil line it's a cosmetic issue. Was the wall parged or is it raw block?
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Nov 14, 2013 16:28
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Motronic posted:This wall is above ground? If so, there's little value in dryloc other than as a vapor barrier. Thanks for the feedback Motronic. We've been told that the block extends 3 feet below grade but the wall in question is above ground. The old paneling was slapped on haphazardly, with many gaps and cracks, so the concern is that perhaps the block does get wet but because the old paneling allowed so much air flow the moisture dissipated without causing issues. With the wall sealed up, maybe moisture would have no where to go. Motronic posted:Add a vapor barrier of your choice (could be as simple as tyvec stapled/glued/whatever you need to do to get it) on the outside of the studs and put in R-13 fiberglass. It's the correct thickness for 2x4 bays and its very inexpensive as compared to 2" rigid foam board (which is what you would need to achieve R 13). Sounds good. We've got a roll of 15 lb felt that we used to re-roof a small porch overhang and will pick up some R-13. Motronic posted:If it's above the soil line it's a cosmetic issue. Was the wall parged or is it raw block? It's raw. We need to scrape off the old peeling tar first anyway, so maybe we'll do that then reevaluate.
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Nov 14, 2013 17:01
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socketwrencher posted:The old paneling was slapped on haphazardly, with many gaps and cracks, so the concern is that perhaps the block does get wet but because the old paneling allowed so much air flow the moisture dissipated without causing issues. With the wall sealed up, maybe moisture would have no where to go. I would imagine you'd have efflorescence in a scenario like this, any sign of that?
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Nov 14, 2013 18:07
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stubblyhead posted:I would imagine you'd have efflorescence in a scenario like this, any sign of that? Nope. Maybe we're good to go then. Thanks.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:24
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I bought a foreclosure which needs all new floors. I want to put hard floors in the entire house. I hate carpet. I had been thinking about laminate floors which look like wood. My friend said Pergo is a good brand. I was looking around and Home Depot apparently will have Pergo 8mm floors for .94 a square foot on Black Friday. Does anyone have experience with these? I was considering the brand anyway and to get the floors for under 1200 for my house would be awesome. I understand I still need an underlayer (any suggestions?) and to get them installed. Are these good? I have an 80 pound dog if that matters. I do not want to buy really expensive hardwoods and have her tear it up.
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Nov 15, 2013 14:33
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Ribsauce posted:I bought a foreclosure which needs all new floors. I want to put hard floors in the entire house. I hate carpet. I had been thinking about laminate floors which look like wood. My friend said Pergo is a good brand. Prego floors are compressed particl/cardboard. They need to be installed on a flat level surface. Some have a built-in foam underlayment. Depending on the subfloor they may need 4(6?)mil underlayment. They are a floating floor and will have a bit of mush/spring. They cannot get wet. They are really really easy to install. You need to be able to rip and cut, so a tablesaw is really the only tool you need. Well hammer and nailset for trim. Buy real wood molding as the cardboard sticker poo poo pergo sells is, uh, poo poo. When buying prego finish the job with 3 or 4 complete boards so you can do repairs with matched "dye lots." Over the years I have installed them in basement family rooms or similar. I wouldn't install them in high traffic areas or kitchens/bathroom. Your dog will scratch the poo poo out of these. Unlike hardwood they can't be sanded. So if your house isn't wavy floored I would suggest: Vinyl in kitchen & bath. Also at any entry doors. Engineered hardwoods in hallways, family and dining rooms. The only place I would suggest prego on a main floor is bedrooms or office. You do not have to do everything at once, go room by room as you can afford it. Buy vinyl remnants, etc to save $.
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Nov 15, 2013 15:03
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Ribsauce posted:I bought a foreclosure which needs all new floors. I want to put hard floors in the entire house. I hate carpet. I had been thinking about laminate floors which look like wood. My friend said Pergo is a good brand. My parents had Pergo floors at one point and the dog scratched them so much that they pulled them out and went with another type of laminate. It was a very dark Pergo, so that might have had a lot to do with it.
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Nov 15, 2013 15:04
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Dragyn posted:My parents had Pergo floors at one point and the dog scratched them so much that they pulled them out and went with another type of laminate. It was a very dark Pergo, so that might have had a lot to do with it. Could be; my parents installed a lighter Pergo a few years ago and the 100+lb German Shepherd hasn't noticeably marked it at all.
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Nov 15, 2013 15:38
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oldskool posted:Could be; my parents installed a lighter Pergo a few years ago and the 100+lb German Shepherd hasn't noticeably marked it at all. All laminate floors are (as mentioned) reconstituted sawdust with a wood grain printed onto a piece of kraft paper or similar which is laminated to the top. The differences in quality are in the ink/pattern used and, more importantly, how think of a coating of what they put on top of the wood grain print. Cheap laminate is barely coated at all and will be quickly destroyed by dogs, desk chair wheels, and even direct sunlight. Better quality laminate can stand up to a bit more. If you're paying under $2/sq. ft. it's probably not quality stuff. Not to say I wouldn't use it: you just need to know where it's appropriate and what kind of life to expect out of it.
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Nov 15, 2013 16:36
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I wouldn't use pergo since it is cheap and is a floating floor (not a fan of that). Have you looked at bamboo? I put some in over the winter and it is pretty nice. I also recommend a noise reduction layer under any engineered or bamboo product. Cork is all the rage in bathrooms now as well but I have never used it. Put tile in your bathrooms and if you want the kitchen (it can be wood though if you want which o like better). If you put in tile don't forget the in floor heat. Also if you pull up the carpet inspect all the subfloor before installing. Smells never go away so replace it.
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Nov 15, 2013 19:49
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spwrozek posted:I wouldn't use pergo since it is cheap and is a floating floor (not a fan of that). Have you looked at bamboo? I put some in over the winter and it is pretty nice. I also recommend a noise reduction layer under any engineered or bamboo product. I put bamboo in about 5 years ago, and it hasn't held up well to cats. I think I paid ~$2.50/sq foot for the materials so it wasn't the most expensive bamboo but it also wasn't top-tier. It's also cracking pretty badly because we have low humidity (+/- 30% RH) in AZ so unless you live in a moister place, or control the interior humidity that's something to be aware of.
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Nov 15, 2013 23:39
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spwrozek posted:I wouldn't use pergo since it is cheap and is a floating floor (not a fan of that). Curious, what's wrong with floating floors? I replaced all of the carpeting in my house (which was a poo poo-ton, and it was all old, manky stuff) with floating engineered hardwood and it seems to be fine.
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Nov 16, 2013 01:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Curious, what's wrong with floating floors? I replaced all of the carpeting in my house (which was a poo poo-ton, and it was all old, manky stuff) with floating engineered hardwood and it seems to be fine. It is more a preference than anything else. I just don't like the movement and bounce of the floor. There is nothing wrong with it though. About the bamboo I can understand how claws could rip it up. We have a cat so we will see how it holds up. After 8 months no issues.
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Nov 16, 2013 03:23
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I used Armstrong laminate flooring in three rooms and have been very happy with it. The older stuff would readily absorb moisture but anything made in the last half dozen years or more is moisture resistant; meaning if you leave it in a puddle it will eventually swell but occasional moisture will do nothing. I have a piece that's been setting outside my shop in the sun and rain for over a year and it looks like I put there yesterday. Matter of fact I cut a piece off yesterday to use in my shop. We have a lab and are not obsessive over trimming her claws and have no scratches. The negative experiences may be people using cheap/poo poo/generic brands.
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Nov 16, 2013 03:43
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spwrozek posted:It is more a preference than anything else. I just don't like the movement and bounce of the floor. There is nothing wrong with it though.
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Nov 16, 2013 04:10
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Some laminate actually has a veneer of actual wood on top. If it's thick enough it can actually be sanded back to remove damage. E: actually.
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Nov 16, 2013 20:28
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What is the reason to install denim insulation? Sound damping? DIYers afraid of fiberglass?
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Nov 17, 2013 16:52
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:What is the reason to install denim insulation? Sound damping? DIYers afraid of fiberglass?
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Nov 17, 2013 17:54
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Most laminate flooring will have an indication of how hard wearing it is. The good stuff might say something like "suitable for commercial use" (as in suitable for use in a shop or store). Maybe that's just Europe, I don't know. The one that has wood on top instead of laquered paper can be very nice. Re: cork, I have cork tiles on the wall in my bathroom, installed by a previous owner, and they are starting to peel at the corners. So if anyone's considering something like that, make sure the stuff is glued down properly.
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Nov 17, 2013 21:34
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I bought a US made 1/3HP GE motor at a salvage yard and am trying to figure out how to wire it up. Model 5KH45DR92S 6.4A 115v 60hz. There is unfortunately no diagram on the housing. There are 6 blade terminals. Inside, this is how the terminals are wired: black goes to 2, red goes to 4, blue goes to 3, orange goes to 1 and yellow and orange go to 6 Any advice on what the hell goes where? No white wire?  Edit: Just tested with a meter and I get a very small amount of voltage from terminals 2 and 6 when turning the motor by hand dwoloz fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 02:19
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