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Jose Pointero posted:Read almost the entire thread over the course of a couple weeks, and just ordered my first new pair of tires for this bike: We've swapped out several tires for PR3s. Hearing nothing but good things from the people that are using them so far. I plan on getting them myself when the time comes.
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Nov 14, 2013 00:46
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I just put them on my 675. Will try and remember to post up a more in depth review once I ride around them a bit this weekend.
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Nov 14, 2013 00:50
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I wish I could get PR2's or PR3's for my Ninja 500. I loved the PR2's on my SV650. Complete confidence in the wet or dry. (I can get a PR2 or PR3 for my front tire (110/70/17) but they don't make them narrow enough in the back. Michelin makes the Pilot Aktiv for bikes with wee tires like mine...but their 2013 fitment chart doesn't show the front or the back size as being in production. Guess I'll have to go elsewhere.)
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Nov 14, 2013 01:05
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Phone posting so can't double check rim sizes easily but you can't squeeze a 140 on there?
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Nov 14, 2013 08:18
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I'm trying to find new tires for my DRZ-S. I didn't have any problems with the stock Bridgestones, but I was hoping to find something a little more suited to offroad. Realistically, I'll probably only offroad it 20 - 30% of the time. I keep seeing Shinkos recommended on Thumpertalk but I'm not quite sure I want to trust a $40 tire. Or should I just go all out and buy a second of 17" wheels for the road, and mount knobbies on the stock wheels?
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Nov 18, 2013 02:33
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Pirelli Scorpion MT90s are what I'm using at the moment and they're pretty decent on road and on grass. I've not taken them on anything more technical than a gravel road and even then I wasn't pushing it so I can't tell you how they'll handle but they seem to be a pretty decent compromise. MT60s have a slightly more aggressive tread pattern if you see yourself spending more time off road. Though if you can find a pair cheap you'll probably get better use out of two sets of wheels.
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Nov 18, 2013 03:35
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Deeters posted:I'm trying to find new tires for my DRZ-S. I didn't have any problems with the stock Bridgestones, but I was hoping to find something a little more suited to offroad. Realistically, I'll probably only offroad it 20 - 30% of the time. I keep seeing Shinkos recommended on Thumpertalk but I'm not quite sure I want to trust a $40 tire. I've heard decent things about the avon distanzia for mild offroading. Also seen Heidenau makes offroad capable tires (model K73?), but I haven't heard many reviews about it. The distanzia's seem to be the go-to offroad/supermoto tire. My local shop said they wouldn't even order Shinko's after I mentioned that was what had come on my bike, so that may tell you something.
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Nov 18, 2013 05:13
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Another vote for the Distanzia, they make dirt/gravel bearable and they're surprisingly good on the road. I've had three now.
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Nov 18, 2013 14:32
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I'm definitely leaning towards the Distanzias now, possibly the Gripsters. I passed over them at first since I only saw "tubeless" 
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Nov 18, 2013 17:39
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I've currently got knobbly tires on my KLR 650, and I was wondering would be optimal for a winter work commute, with ice and snow on the road. Would tire studs be a good investment?
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Nov 19, 2013 01:57
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OSU_Matthew posted:I've currently got knobbly tires on my KLR 650, and I was wondering would be optimal for a winter work commute, with ice and snow on the road. Would tire studs be a good investment? Not worth it. Take COTA. And this is your first year on a bike right?
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Nov 19, 2013 09:08
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astrollinthepork posted:Not worth it. Take COTA. Yeah, I'm still a rank newbie... I just don't wanna give up riding for several months  I do have a car though, so it's not like I plan on riding when the weather is too unbelievably awful. I'm just planning on going out when the streets are plowed. The only thing that gives me trepidation is the parking lot at my work--it's not very well maintained. I'd feel utterly foolish getting to work perfectly fine, and then crashing.
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Nov 19, 2013 13:03
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There's a huge difference between winter riding and trying to get through snow and ice. If there's snow or ice, taking a bike isn't worth the risk and cost. If it's just cold and dry? Layer up and go to town. Beyond traction issues, you should think about the affect salty water is going to have on your bike.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:33
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The fun part is when it gets around 0* your tires don't stick for the first couple of miles so you get off the gas and the rear will gracefully slide around on you. It's awesome.
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Nov 19, 2013 21:57
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Between Continental Milestones or Metezler 880, which is the preferred tire? From reviews online, it sounds like the Metezler is the way to go, but wasn't sure if anyone here had ridden one or the other and had thoughts.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:52
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BlackMK4 posted:The fun part is when it gets around 0* your tires don't stick for the first couple of miles so you get off the gas and the rear will gracefully slide around on you. It's awesome. That's exactly what I wanted to know... would tire studs help out with traction on winter roads, or are they more gimmicky than they're worth? Edit: vv Thanks! I had no idea they were illegal--though it makes perfect sense. Just trying to prepare as best as possible for the inevitable out-of-the-blue snowstorm while I'm at work. vv Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Nov 22, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 06:39
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OSU_Matthew posted:That's exactly what I wanted to know... would tire studs help out with traction on winter roads, or are they more gimmicky than they're worth? He just means when the tires are cold and hard there isn't a lot of traction. Studs are good for ice, but terrible for dry roads. Also illegal. If the roads are at the point where ice is a problem you really shouldn't be out on a bike anyhow, studs or not. Really, the winters aren't bad here, and you're only looking at maybe 2-3 bad storms in any given winter. Studs aren't worth it unless you're a lot further north and way out in the sticks, and even then the utility of taking a bike is questionable. Even with studded tires, taking a bike onto public roads in bad conditions is going to be a huge ordeal and super dangerous. If there's snow or ice on the roads, just stay off the bike. There won't be that many days where it becomes a problem.
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Nov 21, 2013 09:29
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Have anyone here run Anakee 3s? How do they compare to other dual sport tires? I've used mine for about 4k miles on my transalp this summer, and I thought they seemed fine but since my only frame of reference is some stone hard 6 year old back, 10 year old front Siracs so I'm not sure what I'll go for next. I drive mostly on sealed surface roads, but they where very nice on the few gravel roads I took. Any other new tire still gotta be ok on gravel/dirt roads. fake edit: I thought about how much gravel I rode. Only about 300 miles. seems like 90% road /10% gravel tires is what I need.
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Nov 21, 2013 12:44
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Wasn't someone going to put a ride report on a new set of Road Pilot 3s up, or did I imagine that whole thing?
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Nov 22, 2013 13:56
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Yeah I was going to do it. The tires were great but my charging system asploded
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Nov 22, 2013 22:27
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Z3n posted:Yeah I was going to do it. I'll call that an endorsment. I need a new set of tires for next season, I kind of want like... Trail Attacks or Anakee 2s, because it would be funny to put them on a Striple, but I'll probably end up with RP3s because in the end I'm too sensible for my own good.
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Nov 23, 2013 04:02
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Does anyone have an opinion on what the best (by which I mean grippyest) tires are for an old, awkward cruiser? I ride a Kawasaki EN450, with a 19/90 front and a 15/140 rear. All the popular choices I've seen seem to be outside of this range, so I got a Bridgestone Spitfire on the front, and a Pirelli Metric Cruise for the rear, neither of which I am happy with. I'm sure a lot of it comes from the cruiser geometry, and rider error (Just finished about a year since my MSF), but these tires just aren't confidence inspiring at all, especially in the rain. I'm mainly concerned with having more grip. Longevity is always nice, of course, but It's something I'm willing to sacrifice.
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Nov 23, 2013 17:42
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Z3n posted:The tires were great but my charging system asploded On the Triumph? There was a recall on regulator/rectifier. http://www.asphaltandrubber.com/recall/triumph-street-triple-r-daytona-675-recall/
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Nov 23, 2013 17:48
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Sarrisan posted:Does anyone have an opinion on what the best (by which I mean grippyest) tires are for an old, awkward cruiser? I ride a Kawasaki EN450, with a 19/90 front and a 15/140 rear. All the popular choices I've seen seem to be outside of this range, so I got a Bridgestone Spitfire on the front, and a Pirelli Metric Cruise for the rear, neither of which I am happy with. I'm sure a lot of it comes from the cruiser geometry, and rider error (Just finished about a year since my MSF), but these tires just aren't confidence inspiring at all, especially in the rain. A set of new, matched tires should do wonders for your confidence. I've used dual compound michelin touring tires the last few runs, pilot road 3s, and they're pretty good. More than enough grip for the street and good life. I went to Michelin's site to see what options they have for you but every time I search for a bike or tires I get this:  When I went around to some shops a lot tried to sell me Shinkos cause they're cheap. I'm not sure how the grip is but I heard they had poor life.
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Nov 23, 2013 17:54
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For the record, I did buy my tires new, they're mismatched because the shop did not have two matching tires that fit (I bought the bike with what looked like the original tires, there was so much dry rot). I wasn't really worrying about stuff like handling or whatever, I just wanted the bike ridable quick. Doing another search, I've noticed Michellin Commander 2s come in the right size for the rear, but they're a little off for the front (revzilla has a 90/90 19, the sticker on my bike lists 100/90 19). Assuming this is okay, does anyone have an opinion on these? They seem to have rave reviews, but so did my current tires, so I dunno. nsaP posted:When I went around to some shops a lot tried to sell me Shinkos cause they're cheap. I'm not sure how the grip is but I heard they had poor life. I haven't heard too many great things about them either, besides the price.
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Nov 24, 2013 03:22
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Would knobbly tires affect countersteering in any way? Perhaps it's just my relative inexperience or adjustment to a new bike, but for some reason my KLR 650 doesn't naturally seem to countersteer on turns like my nighthawk does. Maybe it's just my perception, but when I turn >15 mph, the front tire seems to want to turn into the direction I'm going instead of away, and I was wondering if that was related to the knobbly tires on the bike, the bike itself, or just plain user error?
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Nov 25, 2013 01:25
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OSU_Matthew posted:Would knobbly tires affect countersteering in any way? Perhaps it's just my relative inexperience or adjustment to a new bike, but for some reason my KLR 650 doesn't naturally seem to countersteer on turns like my nighthawk does. Maybe it's just my perception, but when I turn >15 mph, the front tire seems to want to turn into the direction I'm going instead of away, and I was wondering if that was related to the knobbly tires on the bike, the bike itself, or just plain user error? It's the riding position, fork rake, and wide bars. Manually countersteer and I guarantee it'll turn like it's supposed to.
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Nov 30, 2013 00:40
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At slow speeds countersteering just starts you leaning, it's normal for the wheel to follow the way you're going after you've leaned it over a bit. Do it some place where you can go from turning at 10mph to 30mph and you'll see the front tire gradually line up with the bike as you gain speed.
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Nov 30, 2013 17:10
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Oh, nice. Michelin has a new tire for small streetbikes, the Pilot Street Radial, in Ninja 500 sizes. Must be why they dropped those sizes from the Activ.
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Dec 2, 2013 07:06
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nsaP posted:At slow speeds countersteering just starts you leaning, it's normal for the wheel to follow the way you're going after you've leaned it over a bit. Do it some place where you can go from turning at 10mph to 30mph and you'll see the front tire gradually line up with the bike as you gain speed. Thanks! I'm definitely over-thinking this... I was particularly afraid of slipping into bad riding habits regarding turning. It would certainly behoove me to get in a parking lot and practice turning/emergency braking. This is probably a dumb question, and it's probably been addressed earlier in the thread, but is it necessary for tread pattern to match on both wheels? I've got a nice spare front tire that I was hoping to pair with a new (probably slightly different) rear to replace my knobblies when they wear out. Am I setting myself up for problems? Edit--derp, nevermind, reread OP. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 05:52
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I'm returning to riding after a year off and need to replace my '01 Hornet 600's tyres because the tread on the rear isn't going to be legal for much longer. Used to run Bridgestone BT021 for both front and rear as a decent all-round tyre covering everything from fast road riding in the heat to sub-zero commuting on icy roads. Looks like the BT021 has been replaced by BT023 - is this still a decent all round sport touring tyre or should I be looking elsewhere?
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Dec 8, 2013 13:47
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I much prefer the Michelin pilot road 3s to the bridgestones but you can't go wrong with an ST tire from any major brand right now.
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Dec 8, 2013 17:18
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Tell me about tubed tyres. What the gently caress do the numbers mean? I have little experience with lovely ancient bikes but I bought a GL145 honda. It has wirespoke wheels, the front is marked "2.75-18", the rear is marked "3.25-18" and the bike came with a brand new pirelli marked "3.50-18". I realise the 18 is the wheel diameter, because I'm a deductive genius, but what are the other numbers? More importantly, can that pirelli be fitted to either wheel of my bike or should I just get rid of it?
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Dec 19, 2013 07:26
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Width of the tire. Here's a link that explains and some stuff, plus a handy comparo table  https://www.denniskirk.com/help_center/tire-sizes.jsp#width_table
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Dec 19, 2013 08:07
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Ok sweet! And is there any difference front or rear? The tyre isn't marked either way but based on size I'd be sticking it on the back and I want to know if that's acceptable. FWIW the tread has no 'blocks' like the old tyres, it is just the plain old timey circumferential channels.
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Dec 19, 2013 09:57
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How much life so I have left in this tire? http://imgur.com/DpVf36t I'm going to order a new tire,but I'm wondering if I should replace it as soon as I get it, or let this one take some more wear first. It has about 6100 miles on it when I took that picture, at 6600 now.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:21
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It shouldn't matter which end it's mounted on if it's not marked as front or rear. That tire is done...You're at the wear bars already and it's always hard to tell where the limit is on those types of tires, cause there is no siping in the middle of them.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:28
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Ok. I think I'll be ordering the rear PR3, I believe my front tire is still good and I can't even afford both right now. Yay for no insurance medical bills.
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Dec 19, 2013 18:13
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Slavvy posted:Ok sweet! And is there any difference front or rear? The tyre isn't marked either way but based on size I'd be sticking it on the back and I want to know if that's acceptable. FWIW the tread has no 'blocks' like the old tyres, it is just the plain old timey circumferential channels. Vintage ribbed "speedmaster" tyres are for front mounting. Is this the kind you mean? You would typically pair a "Speedmaster" front with a "GP" rear, see these historic Avons: http://www.avonmotorsport.com/historic-tyres-range/motorcycle
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Dec 19, 2013 18:39
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Yeah it is a speedmaster type of thing. Bugger. Based on the profile chart, not only would it not fit my front rim but it would be larger than my rear tyre. Although the performance of the bike is so poor, and the condition of the current tyres so poo poo, it would probably improve things anyway. I just picture it wearing really quickly.
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Dec 19, 2013 20:16
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