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I lost my Subaru today. There was a big storm, and i was going to the shop, and I pulled out onto the main road as so idiot from interstate slammed her brakes infront of me, so I was forced to slam mine, and I hit her. According to her she was from interstate and driving her dads car and was unsure of herself and basically admitted fault to my dad, who was in his car behind me, but because I hit her rear end supposedly I'm technically at fault. The insurance company may side with me, they may not, I'll find out tomorrow. The cars probably a write off, and through no fault of my own. I've only had the thing for 3 loving months. If the insurance company does side with me and the cars a write off, between the payout and some money I have saved, I'll be able to get a WRX. I was going to sell it for one in a few months anyway, but I've just started thinking about how much I'll miss it when I do. 
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Nov 18, 2013 15:05
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:he insurance company may side with me, they may not, I'll find out tomorrow. Wouldn't hold out hope here. It's essentially always your fault in this case unless the person in front of you is actually trying to make you hit them, and sometimes even then. As the person following, you're required to keep a safe distance for yourself to react+stop. Plenty of fault of your own there.
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Nov 18, 2013 15:41
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si posted:Wouldn't hold out hope here. It's essentially always your fault in this case unless the person in front of you is actually trying to make you hit them, and sometimes even then. As the person following, you're required to keep a safe distance for yourself to react+stop. Plenty of fault of your own there. The other person said they slammed on the brakes as hard as they could, not intending for a crash but admitting they were driving dangerously for absolutely no reason other than that they were from interstate and were unsure of where they were. Not only to me, but to other people as well. She apologized for causing the crash, it's just a matter of her being honest with the insurance people. If the road was a little more level or dry (aquaplaning is the worst), I would definitely not have hit her. I would have stopped somewhere behind her. It wasn't like I was tailgating, I had literally just turned onto the main road behind her from the residential street, I wouldn't have even hit half the speedlimit yet. I'd understand if she had slammed her brakes to avoid something in front, but she did it for literally nothing.
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Nov 18, 2013 15:55
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The way the laws are written, if you can't stop in time to avoid re-ending somebody then 99% of the time you are at fault for following too closely.
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Nov 18, 2013 16:08
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I understand that, but she admitted fault which is why I'm hopeful. Sorry if I come across as being lovely, I'm missed sleep last night and I'm still pretty pissed about this and can't sleep so I'm pretty tired. E; Should mention this is Australia so the laws might be slightly different in America but people have told me that there's exceptions for things like this underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 16:14
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TheFargate posted:Is that the only one that snapped? I had all of them snap on my vw, I ended up pulling off the turbo then had a friend at a nearby machine shop remove the studs via a mill. Only one. But it's $75 to pull the original turbo and remove the stud. Or $150 for a lower mileage turbo and keep the original as a backup
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Nov 18, 2013 16:27
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Yakattak posted:Only one. But it's $75 to pull the original turbo and remove the stud. Or $150 for a lower mileage turbo and keep the original as a backup Well when it happened to me i pulled the turbo myself and was able to get the studs removed for free. Have you tried torching the stud?
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Nov 18, 2013 16:30
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Internet Explorer posted:So my question is... with them unveiling a new generation and the end of the year coming up, when will be the best time to buy a new 2014 WRX hatchback? Orders for the 2014 are closed according to my boss, and it's going to be a low-production year because Subaru is rolling out the 2015 early. Maybe you'll have better luck in your region, but we're having a tough time finding 2013s and 2014s for customers that want to buy them. And on the topic of the 2008-2013 durability...  I cracked a huge hole in my front bumper on a chunk of ice in a parking lot when the car was brand spanking new. Aside from that, they've held their value pretty well around here. The two '11 WRXes I've sold recently have sold for about $22k.
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Nov 18, 2013 16:38
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goatse guy posted:The two '11 WRXes I've sold recently have sold for about $22k. I got quoted for that on one of those dealer/factory buyback thingies a couple months ago on my '11. I was pretty surprised.
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Nov 18, 2013 18:18
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SoA is sending six Tribecas to my dealership. I guess someone has to sell them, so it might as well be me, right? 
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Nov 18, 2013 18:37
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goatse guy posted:SoA is sending six Tribecas to my dealership. I guess someone has to sell them, so it might as well be me, right? People buy those?
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Nov 18, 2013 19:55
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Friend who does sales at a local dealer actually discourages people from buying them.
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Nov 18, 2013 19:59
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Amandyke posted:People buy those? No. My dealership also sells Kias, and the Sorento is a way better buy for the money.
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Nov 18, 2013 20:14
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goatse guy posted:Orders for the 2014 are closed according to my boss, and it's going to be a low-production year because Subaru is rolling out the 2015 early. Maybe you'll have better luck in your region, but we're having a tough time finding 2013s and 2014s for customers that want to buy them. gently caress. This is exactly what I didn't want to hear. I didn't think any shortages would start so soon.
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Nov 18, 2013 20:49
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Internet Explorer posted:gently caress. This is exactly what I didn't want to hear. I didn't think any shortages would start so soon. If you tell me what you're looking for, I can see how many are out there and see if there's any close to you. edit: you can email me -- amy at gfsubaru dot com goatse guy fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 20:56
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Slow is Fast posted:Friend who does sales at a local dealer actually discourages people from buying them. The Tribeca is the only Subaru that Subaru Canada has offered 0% on, to the best of my knowledge. Even then...
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Nov 18, 2013 20:59
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Seat Safety Switch posted:07 has some cheaper parts, highway-friendlier (and faster 0-60) gearing, a worse factory tune (that's more likely to damage the engine from leaning out over time than the 06 tune), better turbo (VF43) and some other minor revisions. It adopted canbus and added a secondary emissions air pump that goes bad and is more difficult to remove than the already-awful one in the 06 WRX. Related: I want to repair or replace the front left fender of my OBP '07 WRX Limited, and it's looking like the cheapest option would be a pick-n-pull. Does anyone know if '06 fenders would be equivalent? What about WRXs vs STIs? I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to vehicle year differences. Are there different body widths or anything else I need to look out for?
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Nov 18, 2013 21:13
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Sedan and wagon are different widths. I think sti and wrx have the same parts, and 06 and 07 are definitely the same.
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Nov 18, 2013 21:27
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Control arm discussion, even though it's not relevant: 07 STI goes from aluminum front control arms to steel ones and loses some caster. The GC WRX/STI is the same track width as the GD/GG wagon so you can put GC aluminum control arms onto a GG wagon while retaining the same stock track. That's what I did on my WRX. Upgrading to multipiece aluminum control arms lets you flip over the pivot bracket to get additional caster. Fender discussion: The sedan and wagon fenders also have different flares and I think different bumper cover mounting points (as the cover itself is a totally different PN). WRX/STI fenders should be the same. I had heard that they dropped aluminum hoods at some point (I'm guessing 07 WRX) but I bet the STI held onto the aluminum hood the entire way through. Not sure about fenders, because I've heard both ways (that the 06 had/doesn't have aluminum fenders). Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 21:40
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What's the first year of the PZEV engine for each vehicle?
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Nov 18, 2013 21:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Control arm discussion, even though it's not relevant: 07 STI still has aluminum arms but less caster. 02-05 wrx has steel arms, 06 wrx has aluminum, 07 wrx goes back to steel. If you are shopping for aluminum arms you want the high-caster 04-06 parts. Most JDM arms, which are plentiful on ebay etc, are not this kind and I think only the spec-c got them. The front bushing is narrower on the old GC cars, so if were to put newer sti arms on an older car for example they would not fit in the subframe and you would have to change them out. 08 is when they dropped the aluminum hood, even on the STI. try opening one without the pneumatic props... Not sure on fender material. I'd assume they're all just steel. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 23:07
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While we're doing width chat. What width are 3rd gen legacy front control arms. GD wide or GC/wagon skinny. Need to know for if / when I smash into things in my wagon.
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Nov 19, 2013 00:00
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I think narrow, but I'm not sure. Going to the wider and high caster front arms is something I've been meaning to do. Axles supposedly can handle it and it improves handling balance and front end grip.
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Nov 19, 2013 00:07
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goatse guy posted:If you tell me what you're looking for, I can see how many are out there and see if there's any close to you. Thanks for the offer. Sent you an email!
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Nov 19, 2013 02:49
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goatse guy posted:If you tell me what you're looking for, I can see how many are out there and see if there's any close to you. I know it's a stupid question that no one probably knows the answer to yet, but any idea when they'll start taking orders for the 2015?
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Nov 19, 2013 06:33
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nutnmunch posted:I know it's a stupid question that no one probably knows the answer to yet, but any idea when they'll start taking orders for the 2015? No one knows yet. I'll keep you guys updated when I find out. IE, I got your email. I'll shoot you a response in a few hours when I get to work.
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Nov 19, 2013 13:15
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goatse guy posted:No one knows yet. I'll keep you guys updated when I find out. No rush at all. Thank you!
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Nov 19, 2013 13:52
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Wow I installed my A/C compressor before the belt tensioner for it. I immediately gave up after that, what a bitch that was to get on, can't believe I have to take it off now. But oh boy am I close to turning on the car.
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Nov 19, 2013 15:24
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IE, I emailed you. Enjoy your novella. If anyone else wants help finding a new Subaru, has any dealer-specific questions, or wants prices on genuine Subaru parts and services, please feel free to email me at amy at gfsubaru dot com.
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Nov 19, 2013 16:28
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I know this is from a page or 2 back but,Dr.Caligari posted:I've only driven a Dodge Caliber with CVT, so others maybe be different.... I went from a '11 Caliber to a '14 Legacy (2.5 Sport) and both have CVTs in them. My Legacy has the paddle shifters or whatever you wanna call them and when you pop it into manual mode it performs much closer to a true manual. You can notice a difference, but it doesn't totally suck. In automatic, the Caliber's CVT (and comparing with a '10 Kia Sportage) stands no chance to the Subaru one. No it doesn't make sense in the WRX, but it also doesn't suck total rear end either.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:11
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goatse guy posted:IE, I emailed you. Enjoy your novella. Do you have to buy through Subaru of New England (with the appropiate markup) or are the prices more inline with the SubaruGenuineParts.com prices?
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Nov 19, 2013 17:12
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Voltage posted:Wow I installed my A/C compressor before the belt tensioner for it. I immediately gave up after that, what a bitch that was to get on, can't believe I have to take it off now. How did you handle the refrigerant? I need to replace my compressor and I was hoping I could get someone to drain it and refill it the next day and if install the parts myself.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:16
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daslog posted:Do you have to buy through Subaru of New England (with the appropiate markup) or are the prices more inline with the SubaruGenuineParts.com prices? All of our prices are going to have the dealership markup, but we try to stay competitive. If you're looking for specific parts, I can look it up for you.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:57
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My girlfriend has a 2010 forester that has apparently only had four wheel studs in the rear for over a year. She's up for inspection so I've got to fix it. Two questions: 1: is this as simple as remove wheel, brakes, and tone ring, press out old snapped stud, pull in new stud with washers and lug nut? Or am I missing something in there? 2: Where is the best place to actually buy these parts (new stud and lug)? It's five bucks worth of stuff, which doesn't meet the genuinesubaruparts minimum order. Help!
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Nov 19, 2013 18:03
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TacoHavoc posted:My girlfriend has a 2010 forester that has apparently only had four wheel studs in the rear for over a year. She's up for inspection so I've got to fix it. Two questions: I haven't done this on a Subaru, but on another car - 1- Yes, but getting the old one out can be a pain, and might be annoying to maneuver the new one in. 2- Local auto parts store should carry these.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:26
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TacoHavoc posted:My girlfriend has a 2010 forester that has apparently only had four wheel studs in the rear for over a year. She's up for inspection so I've got to fix it. Two questions: I'm assuming that those hubs are the same that are on the rear of my WRX. You can't actually remove the tone ring, it is captured by the hub. The CORRECT procedure is to remove the ABS sensor, undo the tone ring and push it to the side so the stud clears it, and pop the stud out through the ABS sensor hole. In my case, the bolt holding the ABS sensor in snapped trying to remove it, but it doesn't matter because the ABS sensor was permanently fused to the knuckle by rust. Through much swearing, contorting, and use of a magnet on a stick, I was able to maneuver the old stud out and put the new stud in without using the ABS hole. Also don't forget that you have to pull the rotor which means undoing the rear caliper bracket. Just buy the stud at your local Autozone/Advanced Auto/Pep Boys/Napa for $3.50 and call it a day.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:28
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Be ready to hate yourself. I had to replace 2 on my old f-150, it took heating it with a torch and a full swing with a 20lb sledge.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:29
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Powershift posted:Be ready to hate yourself. I had to replace 2 on my old f-150, it took heating it with a torch and a full swing with a 20lb sledge. Oddly enough, actually loosening the stud wasn't too bad for me (I've done two in my rear wheels). Gentle, but continuous tapping with a regular hammer popped it out. That said, I've heard it's much better to press them out as tapping/hammering can ruin a wheel bearing.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:32
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Powershift posted:Be ready to hate yourself. I had to replace 2 on my old f-150, it took heating it with a torch and a full swing with a 20lb sledge. This is on an abused New England car so I'm seeing pain in my future. We will see how it goes. Thanks for the advice on the tone ring.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:03
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For what it's worth, on my abused rust-belt car with 110k miles I did a front stud with no effort. I know the rear is more involved, but I think the "major" stuck parts are the same F/R.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:46
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