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Direwolf posted:So you would recommend the "round" rather than the "series 7 miniatures"? "Round" is a style of brush. W&N Series 7 brushes come in Pointed Round and Miniature Round. You want the Pointed Round ones. The Miniature Rounds have less belly and bristle length which means you won't be able to carry as much paint and the paint is more likely to creep into the ferrule, which is bad. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 03:41
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berzerkmonkey posted:EDIT: Oh, and how much is the Liquitex spray paint? And it is flat or semi-gloss? They're flat but really vivid. The best thing about them is they're water based so they barely smell and they can't fuzz out on you. They will be runny if you spray too thick though but they've got good coverage and there are a ton of really nice colors. I'm using cadmium yellow deep hue 1 to basecoat all of my IG vehicles and it's pretty much an exact match for Desert Yellow/Tallarn Sand.
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Nov 19, 2013 03:49
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Rushed a Lord Commissar for a tournament this weekend. He's in sort of rough shape and I didn't put any time into fixing him up since I got him secondhand. I did some rudimentary greenstuffing and gave him a moustache though.   
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Nov 19, 2013 03:57
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VoodooXT posted:Some decent less expensive alternatives to W&N S7s are Creative Mark Rhapsody or Utrecht Series 221 kolinsky sable brushes. The Series 221s are probably the same or incredibly similar to the earlier mentioned Dick Blick sable brushes and they look incredibly similar to Raphael 8404s but I don't know if they're made by them (if they are, then they probably didn't pass the QA test). The only 'weird' thing I can think of for Creative Mark Rhapsodys are that they're longer than S7s or Series 221s (traditional English handle size). I fully endorse the Rhapsody, I've been using a size 0 Rhapsody as my go to workhorse since my Bretonnians all those years ago. Gone through about three of them, I'll keep on buying them.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:Have you tried green ink over the yellow? This guy had the nifty idea of doing a green wash over a yellow base for Orks. I think it looks pretty drat sweet and would save a lot of time. This makes perfect sense since the old GW way to paint Orks involved a 50/50 Goblin Green/Sunburst Yellow mix for the highlight.
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Nov 19, 2013 05:09
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MisterG posted:^^^Would you say the action on the Escoda is soft or firm? Comparable to a regular W&N Series 7? Finally, which line Optimo? You're looking for "Escoda Reserva Kolinsky-Tajmyr Sable Point" brushes. Here they are on Blick. The quality is superb. Compared to the W&Ns they are thinner, longer, cost less, but don't come to nearly as sharp a tip. The touch is soft, but I can't compare directly since I haven't used a W&N in years. Size 0 is my warhorse brush and I highly recommend it. If you like painting with smaller brushes you can't beat the extra staying power you get from the extra brush length. e: The brush handles are also made from this cool textured wood so they feel old school as hell BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 05:30
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BULBASAUR posted:You're looking for "Escoda Reserva Kolinsky-Tajmyr Sable Point" brushes. Here they are on Blick. Thank you. Comparing the measurements listed on Dick Blick I'll try the 1 and 2 size and go from there. The shorter handle might work for me; I'm a firm believer in experimenting a every once and a while to make sure I haven't gotten biased. I am a bit worried about the tip being an issue, but have generally had good luck keeping the point on brushes & Dick Blick has a good replacement policy. Aside: Is it me or does every brush site have an inventory problem right now?
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Nov 19, 2013 05:37
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dexefiend posted:I have taken multiple seminars from really good painters, and one thing all of them said is dont use ultra small brushes. Get a higher quality size 1 and 2 and the details will be easier than you expected. The higher quality brushes will hold a point better, and the larger brush size means the reservoir holds more liquid (which means the tip wont dry as fast.) Yeah I heard that a few years ago, and tried it but honestly found little difference in time it took to paint anything. At the point where I'm using the 00 I'm usually using the most watery of paint layers which one dip with the brush will normally do the whole area without multiple trips to the palette (cigarette pack). I've also found with larger brushes at this stage I end up suffering with the paint flooding the model, i.e. even the smallest amount pours off the brush at the slightest touch, I used to ruin so many paint jobs this way, hence the switch to smaller brushes  I'm also using Vallejo MC dropper bottles and the non-miniature W&N's (longer bristle length) and don't find the paint gets in the ferrule as the paint is dropped on the palette (cigarette packet). On the rare occasion I'm using GW paint (metallics) I'll use my old battered workhorse brush to drag some paint out of the pot first before dipping the S7 into it. richyp fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 07:51
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I use a 1, 0, 00 and 000 for my painting, and a horrific cheap rear end brush for mixing paint. The 000 only comes out for eyes and freehand work though. I'm a big proponent of using as big a brush as you can.
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Nov 19, 2013 09:05
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I use W&N Scepter II's usually. I'm also a pretty big fan of using the W&N Galeria range of paints.
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Nov 19, 2013 10:21
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I mainly stick to a Raphael 2 and 0. The #1 comes out sometimes, but not nearly as often as those two. I also have a bunch of hosed up old brushes that I use for stippling, drybrushing, etc.
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Nov 19, 2013 10:21
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I bought my S7s before they introduced the 'mini' range, but one of my grumbles about the S7 is that the bristles are just a bit too long for my liking. So I guess it's down to personal preference v vEither way, normal S7 or mini S7, if you're currently painting with dog poo poo brushes, you'll notice a big difference and you likely won't give a poo poo which of the two is better for you, you'll find out in time. Just enjoy the awesomeness. edit: oh hey it's a new page and I didn't see a bunch of replies 
enri fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 10:23
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Wraithguard arrived last night. Just finished messing with the first one. Really regret priming black with these guys 
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Nov 19, 2013 10:41
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Does anyone have pics of various brands of brushes of the same size? I use a W&N #0 for most of my painting, and I keep hearing that there are good alternatives, but I'm afraid to order brushes online since I know that there is no size standards and a #0 from another brand is likely to be completely different than my trusty W&N.
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Nov 19, 2013 10:52
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RE: Brush Chat... I love my W&Ns but Oath Thread Sponsor Springer-Pinsel do a big range of miniature/model painting brushes as well, from Kolinsky Sable on down. They make the GW and I think Army Painter brushes, which are firmly in the middle of their line-up in terms of quality. I've really liked the ones I've used but haven't moved over to them full-time, since I have a full set of W&Ns that still have plenty of life in them.
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Nov 19, 2013 10:57
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Hellbeard posted:Slow progress update. Hands are hard. Love it though, it looks like you are building a bionic hand from scratch  How well does procreate-on-greenstuff work for you? I had a lot of problems getting it to stick, so I've gone back to pure greenstuff (even with soap washes between each session).
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Nov 19, 2013 12:19
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I would like to add an alternative to the W&N 7 is the Raphael 8404. If you work with washes a lot like I do, the 8404's larger ferrule makes it a better choice for most stuff. The W&N 7 miniature are good, nonetheless. Just "dry."
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Nov 19, 2013 13:27
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Vulich the Subtle posted:I would like to add an alternative to the W&N 7 is the Raphael 8404. If you work with washes a lot like I do, the 8404's larger ferrule makes it a better choice for most stuff. I think it is better to compare the 8404 series to the WN Series 7 (not miniature). The miniature line has nothing to do with being made for use painting miniatures. The miniature line has significantly shorter bristles, which means it inherently carries less liquid. I would recommend people not use the Series 7 Miniature with acrlyics due to paint drying in the ferrule.
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Nov 19, 2013 14:30
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dexefiend posted:I think it is better to compare the 8404 series to the WN Series 7 (not miniature). The miniature line has nothing to do with being made for use painting miniatures. The miniature line has significantly shorter bristles, which means it inherently carries less liquid. I meant to say the W&N 7 and 8404 are comparable, I prefer the 8404, the miniature line is different and thus the W&N 7 miniature is the best (only) contender there. Two choices for normal brushes, only one for small. And yeah I prefer sloppy brushes so I would never suggest the miniature at all ever but some people apparently like them.
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Nov 19, 2013 14:44
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HardCoil posted:Love it though, it looks like you are building a bionic hand from scratch Thanks. ProCreate is tricky in adhering. I try to apply it as soon as I can after mixing. I push it so there's as much surface contact as I can at the early stage and try not to disturb it from its place. After a while it forms a good bond with the surface. You can use this technique even after a few minutes from mixing if you make sure to push it into place and let it sit for a short bit.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:08
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richyp posted:Wraithguard arrived last night. Just finished messing with the first one. Really regret priming black with these guys I like that cracked concrete base - is it resin or cork?
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Nov 19, 2013 18:25
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Thanks for all the brush advice! And I haven't used the yellow spray yet but I did pick up a can as well as a can of a purple, which you can see on display here: Speaking of, which do you guys think, the left brown or the right? I think the wash came out more evenly on the left but the right brown seems more vibrant.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:34
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I'm all about Zergling gaunts, all about em.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:Do you sleep? Yeah I sleep (recently anyway). I get 2hrs to paint a night, while the missus takes over baby duty before he goes bed, and about an hour in the morning while he naps. That's why it's hard to say how long it takes to paint 1. 5 were based and washed, then they usually get individually finished in 45min blocks, or several in the following evening's 2hr window. Except yesterday we decided to finally watch the Hobbit, so I didn't get to do all 5. I based and washed all 5 last night, and layered, highlighted and detailed one of them this morning. Here's a chaotic shot of my desk, where you can see the status of the other 4 next to him. Plus some Inquisitional Storm Trooper test schemes etc... Note the quality painting matt, the dessert pot water glass. cigarette pack palette and about 100 models in the background (mostly painted poo poo I plan on fielding in my annual game of 40k next friday against the Necrons I painted for a friend).  EDIT: The base is a resin one I found on ebay. I mix them in with the cut up sprue/movement tray bases and they blend in nicely. richyp fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 18:59
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MisterG posted:Thank you. Comparing the measurements listed on Dick Blick I'll try the 1 and 2 size and go from there. The shorter handle might work for me; I'm a firm believer in experimenting a every once and a while to make sure I haven't gotten biased. I am a bit worried about the tip being an issue, but have generally had good luck keeping the point on brushes & Dick Blick has a good replacement policy. No problem. Let me know what you think of them. I'd love somebody else to tell me what they think.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:18
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Raphael 8404 are what I've been using for the past year. I found them to be way better than W&N7's in quality but also in how well they hold point and how much paint they can hold. I've been using a 2 for most work, with a 3 and a 000 coming out for two brush blend work. Really recommend them.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:18
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richyp posted:Yeah I sleep (recently anyway). I get 2hrs to paint a night, while the missus takes over baby duty before he goes bed, and about an hour in the morning while he naps. That's why it's hard to say how long it takes to paint 1. 5 were based and washed, then they usually get individually finished in 45min blocks, or several in the following evening's 2hr window. Except yesterday we decided to finally watch the Hobbit, so I didn't get to do all 5.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:25
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Hellbeard posted:Thanks. ProCreate is tricky in adhering. I try to apply it as soon as I can after mixing. I push it so there's as much surface contact as I can at the early stage and try not to disturb it from its place. After a while it forms a good bond with the surface. You can use this technique even after a few minutes from mixing if you make sure to push it into place and let it sit for a short bit. Yeah. that's what I do too, it's just not optimal. Warming it between the fingers seems to work as well, but adding thing strips is a nightmare no matter what you do
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Nov 19, 2013 19:36
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Speaking of test schemes, I've settled on this one for the Storm Troopers (Acolytes), bit of a pain to paint, but fortunately there's only going to be 3 of them.
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Nov 19, 2013 20:18
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X-Post from the 40k thread:ijyt posted:These guys may not be up to the quality of most things posted around, but I'm quite pleased with how they're turning out considering the ease of the paint job. Whoever suggested painting Minotaurs instead of getting Necrons was so right. I did try finding a mix of non-metallics and metallics to dull the "sparkle", but nothing really popped or looked that good compared to just the metallic by itself.
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Nov 19, 2013 23:20
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ijyt posted:X-Post from the 40k thread: Paint rubbing off? Wouldn't you just seal them?
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Nov 20, 2013 02:59
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Thanks Indolent for the advice about the yellow, I picked up a can of Liquitex and also dunked my tanks in some Simple Green yesterday, persistent scrubbing revealed at least part of my problems: 16 year old me was either indecisive or trying to cover up his friend's terrible paint job (I got two of these tanks from a friend at the time) and put on not one but two different primers. My yellow paint wasn't doing me any favors but a major reason the tanks were splotchy is that they had two different coats of yellow, on top of white primer, on top of black primer. There were also persistent clumps of yellow that I had to scrape off with a hobby knife, no reason why it was more resilient than the primer, but I got most of the stuff off. Annnnd voila:  I had to do two coats to cover up the surviving paint but they look gorgeous, I can't wait to actually paint them correctly this time around.
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Nov 20, 2013 04:01
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A couple things I painted up Sunday/Monday: This Vampire Count must have been sitting around primed on my painting desk for 7+ years. I think this is the first thing I ever pinned, his right sword hand, which looks like it was put on upside down when you look at it from behind.     Carrowek, from Mierce Miniatures. Supposed to be a human, dude is built like Super Shredder.    
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Nov 20, 2013 04:25
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Direwolf posted:Thanks Indolent for the advice about the yellow, I picked up a can of Liquitex and also dunked my tanks in some Simple Green yesterday, persistent scrubbing revealed at least part of my problems: Way way better. Now you're in business.
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Nov 20, 2013 06:36
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Hahaha maybe not quite yet. Just spent like an hour trying to get this effect and now I don't even like it that much. Supposed to evoke a setting sun. Trying to tie into my army idea of being an Iyanden death/Ynnead cult.  I think it just looks like a blister. Edit: Sorta fixed it. My lighting setup doesn't really show but I basically calmed down the redder parts, now it's just a gradient from yellow to orange. 
Direwolf fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Nov 20, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 06:48
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Bachtere posted:A couple things I painted up Sunday/Monday: The Vampire king is great, but this dude just blew me away. Looking at your stuff makes me realize how large the skill gap can be - while I am dicking around with contrasting colours , you manage to make your models stand out with a very monochrome scheme and only a few subtle spots of blue. But despite the similar colour choices, thanks to the highlighting work the individual portions of the model stand out - you don't have to guess where the cape starts and the torso ends, for example. Stunning.
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Nov 20, 2013 06:51
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With all the talk of painting fast etc.. I decided to set a timer for 1hr and see what I'd end up with. Started with a grey primed model, at 8:10am, at 9:10 I stopped. You can tell I spent most time on the face, and ran out of time before smoothing the greys down with some in between greys and using a smaller brush for the finer highlights would probably have resulted in less contrast.
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Nov 20, 2013 10:18
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HardCoil posted:Yeah. that's what I do too, it's just not optimal. Warming it between the fingers seems to work as well, but adding thing strips is a nightmare no matter what you do One other thing is if you can apply the material as the previous layer is still "wet" or not completely cured it will also stick better.
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Nov 20, 2013 10:45
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w00tmonger posted:Paint rubbing off? Wouldn't you just seal them? Not when they're half painted, in the case of large models. Even when being handled from the base, the hard edges of battle suit armour loses paint. But my tau have a more pressing issue with them which has killed my enthusiasm for working on them, which is that the glue used was from a bad batch so didn't do too the paid what it was supposed to. All of the models (40+) will eventually disintegrate into their component parts.
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Nov 20, 2013 12:20
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  Some more progress shots after doing some edge highlights with Codex Grey and given the armor and boots an Agrax earthshade wash. What's left to do is to get some model putty to fill in the gaps on the three last baseplates I need and do the wash n highlight on the faces as well as glue on the arms and the rest of their kit and paint and wash that. For my first attempt at edge highlighting it didn't go half bad.
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Nov 20, 2013 14:40
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