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Martytoof posted:Any other hobby scopes I should be considering? I haven't really set any hard requirements. I mainly do AVR coding and small circuit design. I guess I'd love something with a logic analyzer built in but MSOs are typically way more expensive, and I can get a separate logic sniffer for like $50 and it'll do protocol decoding, etc. Go for a DS1074Z which has as much bandwidth as a 100MHz DS1102D and is hackable. The DS1000 series is obsolete.
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Nov 18, 2013 00:41
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If anyone's interested, I found this book on tubes! It seems like it'll answer all the questions I had.
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Nov 18, 2013 02:27
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Krenzo posted:Go for a DS1074Z which has as much bandwidth as a 100MHz DS1102D and is hackable. The DS1000 series is obsolete. Thanks! Do you happen to know what the "option" I2C and SPI decoding entails? Because that's pretty much what I need out of a logic analyzer, and if I can do it in-scope then that would be great. Is it a software option or a hardware option? Didn't see anything obvious on that page, unfortunately 
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Nov 18, 2013 02:45
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More capacitor questions! My LG TV released the magic blue smoke today, and upon dismantling it I see a clearly burned ceramic cap on the power supply board. Everything else around it looks completely fine. A bit of googling shows that I can replace the whole board for about $70, which isn't so bad, but I'd like to try fixing it first. I haven't been unable to find a schematic, but the burned up part is labeled C614 on the silkscreen. I can't read the markings on it because it's blackened a bit, but there are two identical looking caps next to it that read "HL 221k 1kV". The part number for the board itself is b12907270110 and there is a high res photo of it here. The blue cap in the upper left corner of that photo which is bent slightly down and to the left is the one that is burnt on my board. The image is a bit fuzzy, but it looks like it might also read "HL 221k 1kV". I take this to be a 221pF +/- 10% 1000V ceramic cap, and am thinking about trying to replace it with this 220pF +/-10% 1kV cap. Am I crazy, or does this seem like a reasonable thing to try? Edit: I can provide clear photos of the neighboring components if it would be helpful, and I am also toying with the idea of using an otherwise identical but 2kV rated cap instead. armorer fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 03:40
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armorer posted:More capacitor questions! It's probably a 220pF cap (there aren't any 221pF, think about what you typed with regard to tolerance...). Same voltage rating is fine, maybe check the temperature range / coefficient to make sure it is appropriate.
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Nov 18, 2013 04:53
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Martytoof posted:Thanks! It's a software option which goes off of the input channels. It needs a key to unlock the software, but it has been cracked. It works similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEmdHCXhrNk
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Nov 18, 2013 05:35
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Welp, that sounds absolutely ideal. Thanks for the heads up! I was about to buy some outdated model without all this nice stuff 
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Nov 18, 2013 12:24
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movax posted:It's probably a 220pF cap (there aren't any 221pF, think about what you typed with regard to tolerance...). Same voltage rating is fine, maybe check the temperature range / coefficient to make sure it is appropriate. Ooops, yeah that would be 22 x 10^1 wouldn't it. I had already thought about the +/- 10% bit and didn't really know why it could matter that it was 221 instead of 220, but it hadn't occurred to me that the last digit would be an exponent. Thanks! I will see if I can find the temperature range for the original, and if not then I'll go with whatever has replacement has the highest. These things are like 40 cents for singles so I can go overboard and it really doesn't matter.
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Nov 18, 2013 13:16
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armorer posted:Ooops, yeah that would be 22 x 10^1 wouldn't it. I had already thought about the +/- 10% bit and didn't really know why it could matter that it was 221 instead of 220, but it hadn't occurred to me that the last digit would be an exponent. Thanks! I will see if I can find the temperature range for the original, and if not then I'll go with whatever has replacement has the highest. These things are like 40 cents for singles so I can go overboard and it really doesn't matter. Yeah, a standard commercial range part should be fine for what you need; do you have any idea what caused that cap to go poof though? Simply replacing it may not help, as it may immediately go poof again (i.e. its a symptom, not the cause).
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Nov 18, 2013 18:40
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I really don't have a clue why it blew. I wasn't around when it happened but my housemate turned the TV on, says he saw a flash and bit of smoke, and immediately shut it off / unplugged it. All the neighboring components look fine, the caps aren't swollen, and there's no discoloration on anything. There was a bit of dust inside but nothing that seemed too excessive. Can a hair of fine, web-like dust bridge traces sufficiently to do something like this? If so that is the most likely explanation based on what I can see. I have since blown out the dust with canned air though, so I can't provide a picture. The pcb is single sided and all the traces look fine. Basically just that one cap shows damage. I looked the board over repeatedly looking for anything else, but I couldn't find any obvious damage. I suppose there could be a short in one of the inductors that doesn't show, or internal damage to one of the chips that didn't result in it burning up or anything, but I don't really know how to go about diagnosing that sort of thing.
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Nov 18, 2013 19:14
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armorer posted:I really don't have a clue why it blew. I wasn't around when it happened but my housemate turned the TV on, says he saw a flash and bit of smoke, and immediately shut it off / unplugged it. All the neighboring components look fine, the caps aren't swollen, and there's no discoloration on anything. There was a bit of dust inside but nothing that seemed too excessive. Can a hair of fine, web-like dust bridge traces sufficiently to do something like this? If so that is the most likely explanation based on what I can see. I have since blown out the dust with canned air though, so I can't provide a picture. It could very well be a popped cap. God knows electronics manufactures love to use cheap unreliable caps. It's not like they are expensive, I would swap it out and hope for the best - at least if that doesn't fix it, you can just replace the whole board.
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Nov 18, 2013 19:23
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I bought a US made 1/3HP GE motor at a salvage yard and am trying to figure out how to wire it up. Model 5KH45DR92S 6.4A 115v 60hz. There is unfortunately no diagram on the housing. There are 6 blade terminals. Inside, this is how the terminals are wired: black goes to 2, red goes to 4, blue goes to 3, orange goes to 1 and yellow and orange go to 6 Any advice on what the hell goes where? No white wire?  I don't really want to start trying random wires and have it go up in smoke Edit: Just tested with a meter and I get a very small amount of voltage from terminals 2 and 6 when turning the motor by hand dwoloz fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 20:58
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The wires are speed color codes. Check out: 
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Nov 18, 2013 21:14
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PDP-1 posted:One more Eagle CAD question - when making a custom library, how do you set it up to group like parts into a folding tab like in the image below? (the *555 and 1X4 groups) Those aren't separate parts, it's a single part with multiple footprints linked to one symbol (or one combination of multiple symbols). I don't think eagle allows any custom organization within libraries.
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Nov 19, 2013 05:59
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No one wanted to sleep tonight, right? http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/reference/tech_papers/2012-Panashchenko-IPC-Art-of-Metal-Whisker-Appreciation.pdf
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Nov 20, 2013 02:18
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movax posted:No one wanted to sleep tonight, right? I just read all of this. What have I become.  Also that's loving cool and I had no idea such a problem existed. Thanks for sharing I just put in the parts order for the creation of a channel b22 build with a sigma 22 power supply. Gonna be the best winter project ever!
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Nov 20, 2013 05:30
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Remember to dunk it into some glue once it is finished.
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Nov 20, 2013 11:21
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Glue?  Did somebody do something horrible that I am not aware of?
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Nov 20, 2013 17:29
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Xovaan posted:Glue? The real professionals coat their circuits in Uralan or something to prevent whiskers.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:25
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tonberrytoby posted:I thought you had read all of the presentation. Oh, you mean polyurethane, silicone, or parylene c? Each circuit component doubles as a rangefinding ohmmeter to burn out whiskering problems before they start. 
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Nov 20, 2013 19:11
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In my line of work, whiskers are handled with the near-universal "no cadmium, zinc or pure tin, also no silver" provision.
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Nov 21, 2013 00:17
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What would you guys recommend for soldering wattage and tips for PCB? I'm using a 40 watt Weller right now with a chisel tip with 63/37 solder and it oxidizes extremely quickly even with constant tinning. The melting point for this Kester solder is instant and low-- should I get an adjustable soldering iron or switch back to my vintage 35 watt Ungar with a chisel tip since I don't run into these issues?
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Nov 21, 2013 18:37
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Non-adjustable soldering irons are completely worthless and should never be used for something you care about.
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Nov 21, 2013 19:37
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If the tip is oxidizing instantly, it's way too hot. Irons that don't have temperature controls will often shoot up to like 500 degrees (celsius) when you should be at more like 270-300. This is good when you're soldering big fat wires in your car or whatever but it's terrible for microelectronics. I use a Hakko 936 for 95% of the stuff I do and it's just great. They don't make those any more but the FX-888 is basically the same thing if you can take the crazy colors. For the other 5% I use a Portasol butane iron that is also excellent.
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Nov 21, 2013 20:03
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Thanks guys. I was looking into the FX-888 since AMB on AMBlabs said he uses the same setup as you, Sage, but as you've mentioned it is no longer available. Which submodel of FX-888 is the one I should be getting? This looks really tempting: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888...rds=hakko+fx888
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Nov 21, 2013 20:51
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What EE-related blogs/publications/discussion groups/etc do you guys follow or participate in? I think reading hackaday almost exclusively is interesting, but limiting from an academic standpoint.
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Nov 21, 2013 20:57
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Dangerous Prototypes is similar to Hackaday and good sometimes. But yeah, still kinda on the level of "check out this sweet new 3D printer kickstarter - it comes with LED strips already hot-glued on!"
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Nov 21, 2013 22:04
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Delta-Wye posted:What EE-related blogs/publications/discussion groups/etc do you guys follow or participate in? I think reading hackaday almost exclusively is interesting, but limiting from an academic standpoint. EDN has some decent blogs; I also have a few from Mentor Graphics, Cadence that are really detailed and good, mostly because they're there to also sell you on their software. There are some IPC ones I like to follow too, but they are seldom updated.
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Nov 21, 2013 22:19
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This thread introduced me to the EEVBlog, which is a great source of both practical knowledge about electronics and theory behind things. Plus he takes apart old poo poo a lot and looks at it's sexy DIPs 
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Nov 22, 2013 00:13
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EEVBlog is hella fun to watch and I've learned a thing or two. Dave can be a bit annoying at times but he's Australian so that's par for the course 
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Nov 22, 2013 01:04
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I love EEVBlog. A lot of electronics videos on youtube are presented by people that know their stuff, but aren't great presenters. Sure, Dave is over the top enthusiastic, but I really like his "Steve Irwin-esque" delivery... The teardown videos are entertaining, seeing products critiqued like that teaches a ton of stuff about real world product design/manufacturing that just isn't in text books.
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Nov 22, 2013 14:05
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Xovaan posted:Thanks guys. I was looking into the FX-888 since AMB on AMBlabs said he uses the same setup as you, Sage, but as you've mentioned it is no longer available. Which submodel of FX-888 is the one I should be getting? This looks really tempting: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888...rds=hakko+fx888 The FX-888 rules. I've heard nothing but praise for the new digital models from people who have used both. I will never go back to a pencil iron. Suddenly SMD soldering is easy enough that I hate having to use through-hole components. Delta-Wye posted:What EE-related blogs/publications/discussion groups/etc do you guys follow or participate in? I think reading hackaday almost exclusively is interesting, but limiting from an academic standpoint. A little outside the box on this one, you can configure Google News to include news about specific topics you're interested in. I've been quite impressed with the results from adding "Linux" and "Amateur Radio" as feed items, so if there's something specific you're trying to keep abreast of, that might be worth a shot. Seconding EEVBlog, as well. That dude's fantastic.
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Nov 22, 2013 18:13
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Excellent! Put in an order and it will be here tomorrow. I'm stoked! I've always wanted a full electronics workstation and it's finally happening.  Friend gave me a fiber optic transmitter and amp kit he had lying around and after building that CMOY I'm finally getting the hang of conceptualizing circuitry. Here's a great link about audio grounding I'm trying to wrap my head around with my limited electronics knowledge if you guys wanna waste some time, as a thanks for the tin whiskering NASA slides: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diyaudio-com-articles/163575-audio-component-grounding-interconnection.html Oh yeah, I have MG Chemicals Rosin Flux and was wondering the best way to apply it to boards. Brush? Bottle with syringe tip? Q-Tip? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Nov 22, 2013 |
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Nov 22, 2013 18:46
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:This thread introduced me to the EEVBlog, which is a great source of both practical knowledge about electronics and theory behind things. Plus he takes apart old poo poo a lot and looks at it's sexy DIPs In a similar vein, Alan Wolke AKA W2AEW's channel on Youtube has some of the most engaging and well presented electronics tutorials I've ever seen. I've learned a ton by watching his videos, as they're essentially pure distilled knowledge in video form. I also like listening to the Amp Hour podcasts while I work. Dave from the EEVBlog and this electronics nerd from Ohio discuss happenings in the electronics industry, and they often have really interesting guests on the show. nobody- fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Nov 23, 2013 |
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Nov 23, 2013 05:59
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ante posted:Non-adjustable soldering irons are completely worthless and should never be used for something you care about. Metcal and I would like a word... if you're not induction heating your soldering iron you might as well be using a blowtorch. Speaking of soldering, I'm being sent to an IPC J STD-001 soldering course in a few months, anyone know what to expect?
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Nov 23, 2013 08:48
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Xovaan posted:Oh yeah, I have MG Chemicals Rosin Flux and was wondering the best way to apply it to boards. Brush? Bottle with syringe tip? Q-Tip? For liquid flux, I like to use a syringe with a needle. Look for "blunt tip" or "blunt fill" needles. I bought a 10 pack on Amazon thinking they'd rust up shortly, but the only issue I've had with the first one I used is that the needle eventually got clogged until I ran some rubbing alcohol through it. If you've got a big bottle of flux, I'd recommend pouring out a bit into a smaller, resealable container, then using that to fill the syringe. I've never used bottles or brushes, but some folks swear by them. Stay away from cotton swabs, except for when cleaning the pads. The tacky nature of the flux will leave cotton on your pads and parts, and that's just going to get nasty as soon as it gets the heat from the iron.
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Nov 23, 2013 20:33
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poeticoddity posted:For liquid flux, I like to use a syringe with a needle. Look for "blunt tip" or "blunt fill" needles. I bought a 10 pack on Amazon thinking they'd rust up shortly, but the only issue I've had with the first one I used is that the needle eventually got clogged until I ran some rubbing alcohol through it. If you've got a big bottle of flux, I'd recommend pouring out a bit into a smaller, resealable container, then using that to fill the syringe. My Dad uses tiny built-into-the-bottle type brushes (and consequently that's what I learned on since he taught me) and they work very well for all but the tiniest of components, assuming the brush is small and stiff.
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Nov 23, 2013 22:50
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wrong thread.
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Nov 23, 2013 22:53
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poeticoddity posted:For liquid flux, I like to use a syringe with a needle. Look for "blunt tip" or "blunt fill" needles. I bought a 10 pack on Amazon thinking they'd rust up shortly, but the only issue I've had with the first one I used is that the needle eventually got clogged until I ran some rubbing alcohol through it. If you've got a big bottle of flux, I'd recommend pouring out a bit into a smaller, resealable container, then using that to fill the syringe. I always used flux pens--they're basically markers with a depressable tip that dispenses the flux, which makes it really handy for applying it delicately
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Nov 24, 2013 00:56
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I'm working on a project where I need to control many LEDs... Like 192 of 'em. They must be individually addressable, so I will control them with a microcontroller, doing the row/column scan thing. The code I have written ensures that only 1 row of LEDs will be on at a time (row column scan or whatever it's called). Since they are just for indication I've chosen LEDs and resistors to give me enough brightness out of like 10ma per LED, but I want to build in some robustness. I've experimented with a TPIC6B595 high power shift register and a regular ol' 74HC595 so far, which both work OK. I was leaning in the high power shift register / transistor array config because it would be very cheap. However, I've also purchased some Maxim LED driver chips to experiment with (MAX6957ANI+ and MAX7219) The idea here is to make a relatively robust circuit so that in case I gently caress up in my code I don't burn something out... But I also don't want to spend a fortune on fancy LED drivers if I really don't need 'em. So, uh, what, generally speaking, is the industry standard way for manufacturers to implement a shitload of individually addressable indication LEDs? There's a lot of options 4 realz. a_pineapple fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 00:58
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