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Might just be me, but I like Ektar all the time (even some portraits), just err on overexposure and avoid super high contrast scenes.
Mightaswell fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Nov 20, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 00:08
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ZippySLC posted:I recently bought two rolls of Ektar. When is it appropriate to use? decently lit scenes where you know you want vivid color
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Nov 20, 2013 02:22
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Mightaswell posted:just err on overexposure and avoid super high contrast scenes. pshhhhhhhh  Wish You Were Here! by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr
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Nov 20, 2013 03:00
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gently caress yeah Ektar.
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Nov 20, 2013 03:54
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When photo labs scan negatives, is the process different for b/w and color? It's $15 for a CD of "high-res" (3000x2000) scans at my local photo shop, and just a couple of bucks at Costco, which is much higher quality, to boot. But Costco of course only handles the C-41 process, and I'm wondering if I could get b/w film developed for $4 at my shop and then take it to Costco for scanning. After thinking about what it would cost to do my own scanning setup, I think the above would be cheaper even after shooting film for a while, but I don't know if it works like that.
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Nov 20, 2013 22:05
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You'd break even buying a V500 after less than 10 rolls at that price
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Nov 20, 2013 23:00
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dukeku posted:You'd break even buying a V500 after less than 10 rolls at that price Well, yeah, which is why I'm wondering if I can do the scanning at Costco instead 
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Nov 20, 2013 23:10
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Usually the dev and scan is done all at once on the same machine
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Nov 20, 2013 23:12
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404notfound posted:When photo labs scan negatives, is the process different for b/w and color? It's $15 for a CD of "high-res" (3000x2000) scans at my local photo shop, and just a couple of bucks at Costco, which is much higher quality, to boot. But Costco of course only handles the C-41 process, and I'm wondering if I could get b/w film developed for $4 at my shop and then take it to Costco for scanning. Not developing your own B&W is a shameful thing. Get a V500 and chems/tank for developing your own B&W.
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Nov 20, 2013 23:39
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Or you could shoot either Ilford XP2 or Kodak C41 BW film, and have it done at Costco. Looks like KEH are selling film now, not overly cheap though.
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Nov 21, 2013 01:09
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Over the holidays I'm going to get a hand-me-down rangefinder, a Minolta Hi-Matic 7S, that I've been told is in pristine condition. It's my grandfather's, and I would love to fiddle around with it a bit, but I'm not into abandoning digital or anything. Aside from actually learning rangefinder function stuff, is using this camera as simple as replacing the battery, slapping some Portra 400 in it and going outside to find neat stuff? Then taking it to a place locally that still develops film? Or am I six different kinds of off-base? E: Also, if I'm not developing myself, am I better off finding a good local place to do it, or is there a mail-off service you recommend? Huxley fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Nov 21, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 01:57
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MrBlandAverage posted:Not developing your own B&W is a shameful thing. Get a V500 and chems/tank for developing your own B&W. I only just got an ME Super and a couple rolls of Tri-X (and ended up grabbing some Portra 400 shortly thereafter), mostly as an experiment. I'm trying not to invest too heavily into developing/scanning equipment until I think I'm actually gonna stick with it alongside digital. And yeah, if I had done more research beforehand, I probably would have gone with XP2 or BW400CN instead of Tri-X, but I didn't realize it would be so costly for a photo lab to process black and white. Well, if I end up liking this whole deal, I guess I'll drop the cash on a decent scanner and some development materials. I didn't think shooting film with a 30-year-old camera versus a modern, reasonably high-end DSLR would be such a costly investment. 
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Nov 21, 2013 02:12
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Huxley posted:Over the holidays I'm going to get a hand-me-down rangefinder, a Minolta Hi-Matic 7S, that I've been told is in pristine condition. It's my grandfather's, and I would love to fiddle around with it a bit, but I'm not into abandoning digital or anything. A lot of those old rangefinders use mercury batteries that aren't made any more, so may want to do a little research to see if you to do something special. The good news is there is usually a suitable replacement or some sort of adapter you can get for pretty cheap. 404notfound posted:I didn't realize it would be so costly for a photo lab to process black and white. What's nice, is if you use a high dilution developer like Rodinal or HC-110 your cost per roll on developing is down in the <$1 range. It's expensive for the lab because every kind of black and white film requires different development times, so it's a more hands on process for the developer. Color film uses standardized processes so it's the same every time. I imagine the volume on b&w is a lot lower too since so many people do it themselves. eggsovereasy fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Nov 21, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 02:18
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Huxley posted:Over the holidays I'm going to get a hand-me-down rangefinder, a Minolta Hi-Matic 7S, that I've been told is in pristine condition. It's my grandfather's, and I would love to fiddle around with it a bit, but I'm not into abandoning digital or anything. I've got a Hi-Matic 7sii, my first film camera too. It takes the usual easy to get button batteries, and is very easy to use, and even if you don't have batteries it should still fire anyway at 1/125th of a second. The only problem is that the rangefinder spot might be a little dim, but you can do a quick fix by putting a little square of tape over the spot on the input side of the viewfinder. Check out https://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html for the manual, very handy to have.
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Nov 21, 2013 02:54
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Meter velvia 50 at 32, yay/nay? I've been shooting at 32 with a few metered in foliage but sometimes exposures of 1 second doesn't seem right. Is it a good idea? Or is 40 a better idea? Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Nov 21, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 09:09
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Sludge Tank posted:Meter velvia 50 at 32, yay/nay? I wouldn't do it, personally, clipped highlights look like crap on slide (IMO). That said, in my experience Velvia does indeed get really weird color shifts when under-exposed. That's why I usually don't shoot slide except for some landscape experiments and night stuff. It's like being between a rock and a hard place, and I like being sloppy with my metering. (I don't meter, usually and just use my 'experience'.) That said: Actually, with all the film I shoot, even the much vaunted Portra 400, color balance goes to hell when the film is light starved enough. It gives some of my night stuff this otherworldly look.
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Nov 21, 2013 09:27
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Sludge Tank posted:Meter velvia 50 at 32, yay/nay? I've been shooting at 32 with a few metered in foliage but sometimes exposures of 1 second doesn't seem right. Maybe. Try it and see. It could be that your meter or shutter are a combined 2/3 stop off.
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Nov 21, 2013 16:13
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Anyone keen on shooting some real infrared colour film should check this out: http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/35mm-fpp-infra-chrome-color-infrared-film-1-roll Pitty its $22 a roll, but not totally crazy money for how much a 120 roll goes for.
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Nov 22, 2013 22:02
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Spedman posted:Anyone keen on shooting some real infrared colour film should check this out: This is big time. Shipping to my country is ridiculous 
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Nov 22, 2013 22:54
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Spedman posted:Anyone keen on shooting some real infrared colour film should check this out: Pretty awesome but I definitely would like to shoot some 120 of this. How do you even get this developed? What differences come out from standard E-6 and cross processing on c41?
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Nov 22, 2013 22:56
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E-6 usually, you can get it cross processed in C-41 afaik. You have to tell your lab to turn off all infrared lighting when developing for either process.
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Nov 22, 2013 22:58
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Scored a Yashica 12 and a Minolta SR-1S from my grandfather. The Minolta works like a champ, but the shutter doesn't actuate on the Yashica. 
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Nov 23, 2013 03:43
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GunForumMeme posted:Scored a Yashica 12 and a Minolta SR-1S from my grandfather. You can probably send the Yashica to Mark Hama to get repaired, I'm not sure what it costs though.
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Nov 23, 2013 07:06
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I think this question has been answered before, but I can't find it. I found an exposed mystery roll in a 70 year old eastern european camera. Whats the best way of seeing if I can salvage anything? 1:100 Rodinal stand development for 60 mins?
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Nov 23, 2013 07:07
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Putrid Grin posted:I think this question has been answered before, but I can't find it. That or Diafine.
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Nov 23, 2013 08:02
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Quantum of Phallus posted:E-6 usually, you can get it cross processed in C-41 afaik. You have to tell your lab to turn off all infrared lighting when developing for either process. I x-processed the roll I shot in C41 at home, that gave me the greenish skies and red trees. If you process in E6 and shoot with a red filter you'll get colours much like that photographer who shot a tone of the stuff in the Congo, blue skies, magenta trees. pootiebigwang posted:Pretty awesome but I definitely would like to shoot some 120 of this. If you can find a roll of Aerochrome in 120, you'll probably need to sell your camera to buy it.
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Nov 23, 2013 08:16
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Spedman posted:I x-processed the roll I shot in C41 at home, that gave me the greenish skies and red trees. If you process in E6 and shoot with a red filter you'll get colours much like that photographer who shot a tone of the stuff in the Congo, blue skies, magenta trees. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aerochrome-Color-Infrared-Film-25-rolls-120-format-EIR-Kodak-/121198537965?pt=US_Camera_Film&hash=item1c37feeced
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Nov 23, 2013 08:18
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Mr. Despair posted:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aerochrome-Color-Infrared-Film-25-rolls-120-format-EIR-Kodak-/121198537965?pt=US_Camera_Film&hash=item1c37feeced  "I originally bought them at $45 a roll". And I thought it was pricey at ~$20 when I bought mine.Fake edit: I just had a look through his ebay history, he apparently impulsed bought a $10k Leica M8 and recently off-loaded it.
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Nov 23, 2013 08:42
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10k for an M8 is a bad impulse. Speaking of which, I got one of the ME Supers I bid on and, despite being in immaculate condition, the light meter and associated electrical functions do not work at all. Yes, I used fresh batteries and even tested them. Is it a lost cause or can this be repaired?
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Nov 23, 2013 12:11
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RustedChrome posted:10k for an M8 is a bad impulse. Mrdespair probably has some weird trick to make it work.
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Nov 23, 2013 12:14
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eggsovereasy posted:You can probably send the Yashica to Mark Hama to get repaired, I'm not sure what it costs though. Yeah I threw it on x to test the self timer but it wouldn't even go. I'm thinking that's the issue. Of course, I've been wrong before.
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Nov 23, 2013 14:31
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8th-snype posted:Mrdespair probably has some weird trick to make it work. I had a camera that acted the same way, I wound up stripping it of parts to fix other me supers. Either that or your batteries are in backwards/contacts are too dirty. One thing to test though, if you stick teh camera in manual mode, and press the shutter speed indicators around, does it sound like the shutter speed change? That would tell you if either the led/meter is fried or if the electronics are completely hosed.
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Nov 23, 2013 19:00
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Mr. Despair posted:I had a camera that acted the same way, I wound up stripping it of parts to fix other me supers. Batteries are in right, contacts are clean and I used a multitester to make sure the connection was good all the way through. The shutter seems to randomly decide to fire or not, even in manual mode, sometimes exposing for as long as 20-30 seconds. I think it's just fried. I found out about a local guy who works on film cameras so I may let him take a look at it some time. My 2nd ME Super arrived today and it seems to work perfectly in all modes. It's also in nice condition except for chipping on the hinges. Figures that the better looking of the two is the one that doesn't work.
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Nov 23, 2013 22:58
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Have a question regarding long exposures and reciprocity; What do you do if you have started a long exposure from a metered scene (say from 1/125 which ends up being say 4:32 with filters and recip failure taken into account) and then the light changes from a cloud moving over the sun down 1-2 stops halfway through the exposure? What do i do? On some films this changes the time from 4:32 to 20+ minutes. But if i just add on the difference surely it will be over exposed. Any tips as im sure this is a common issue ran into withLE's
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Nov 24, 2013 00:48
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Sludge Tank posted:Have a question regarding long exposures and reciprocity; I usually just stick to my guns, mostly. I've gotten good results that way. I had a similar example except with clouds, it was a night photo and the light giving car drove away. It was meant to be a 3 minute exposure... I tacked on another 30 seconds (it was raining, I was wet and cold... ) and called it a day. Worked out fine. For example I also shot some Fomapan 400 and some Tri-x 400 in the same scenario. Whereas Tri-X still gave me a nice image, brightness with Fomapan just dropped off a cliff and there was little useable in the almost transparent neg. What I'm trying to say with my long-ish rant here is, that shooting film with long exposures is not that scientific. The best way to learn is just to experiment (And probably fail a couple of times, such is life.). Some films are also more forgiving than others. For example Fuji's T64 slide is super forgiving for long exposure stuff, more so than Portra. Which is really weird to me.
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Nov 25, 2013 04:28
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Has anyone here had any experience with Fujicolor C200? Given the price quoted, the lack of information online and the look of the boxes I expect it to be nearly worthless... but at 3$ a roll I'm actually tempted. Worst case scenario: Worth a laugh for my first try doing film for many years. And what is the cheapest film one can get anyway? Where does the barrel reach the bottom?
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Nov 25, 2013 06:24
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No Gravitas posted:And what is the cheapest film one can get anyway? Where does the barrel reach the bottom? Maybe expired 2nd hand Lucky film?
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Nov 25, 2013 06:40
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No Gravitas posted:Has anyone here had any experience with Fujicolor C200? I've seen Superia 200 and 400 under $3/roll. I've seen Kodak Gold/Max whatever they call it for about $2 per roll. (This is all new, unexpired) At those prices, the most expensive part is developing, so you might as well play around.
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Nov 25, 2013 07:23
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Well, I guess I should hunt for that then. Thanks!
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Nov 25, 2013 07:29
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No Gravitas posted:Has anyone here had any experience with Fujicolor C200? I have a great love for Fuji C200, I use it to shoot test rolls as I can get 15 rolls of it for like €24 if I shop around. I pretty much only shot on Fuji C200 for years until I started getting more into photography and have gotten some great results from it:  Welcome by Quantum of Phallus, on Flickr  Bikes by Quantum of Phallus, on Flickr And some shots that...uh... aren't of red neon...  
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Nov 25, 2013 09:43
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