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For 6mm, I use a similar way to paint as I do 28mm. Because I am retarded. But overall, here's how I do: Mount up a ton of minis of the same type. You can use popcicle sticks, but I also use longer wooden sticks that are roughly 20-40cm long. PVA on wood works fine, but be warned: you might bend stuff if you try to pry them off by hand afterwards. It's better to slide a blade in between the strip and the wood, and pry them off. Once you have 100-400 minis mounted up, I prime them black. That way I have the shadows for free, and my messy mistakes are not as easy to see. The other way is to go white, and then directly put on a wash or two to get the shadows. I think the second way works as well, but I haven't tried it yet. Then, do one colour at a time, for your entire batch. I usually do a quick coat of a "middle" colour, say Average Red, followed by a highlight, say Bright loving Orange. Now, here you want to forget about careful layering and all that poo poo that 28mm Daemon Sword winners use, because nothing but very bold highlights are visible at a hand's distance in 6mm. It's also not so important that you get the highlight in just the right place. When I paint, say, a hand, the hand gets a flesh coloured blob. Then, the highlight is a slightly smaller blob of mixed flesh colour and white, aimed roughly in the middle of the previous blob. Since each of my bases have 7-8 minis on them, getting that blob in the right place is not such a big deal. But the fact that the highlight IS there makes a difference for the overall feel of the base. As other's have already said, bold colour schemes and bright colours are a good choice, because you can actually see them. Don't be afraid to go a bit gaudier than you're used to, unless you paint up WW1 brits or whatever. After this you can put on a wash or something if you want, but 9 times out of 10 I think it's overkill. I then base the minis using Baccus basing kit. I thought it was silly to buy a separate basing kit, but after using it, I'm quite happy with it. Less talk, more 6mm goodies:    Shamefully not properly based yet:  
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Oct 31, 2013 16:08
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I just got three Command Decision 15mm M36B1 tanks in the mail today. My first of anything from Command Decision. Not sure why I bought them as FoW doesn't actually have rules for the M36B1, outside of just proxy for the regular M36 (which I'm sure will be fine). Also, could proxy as a Sherman 76mm, and the turrets from the Battlefront M4A1(76mm) fit reasonably well. Personally, I like the detail, and they're roughly the same size as a BF Sherman (though, admittedly I don't have any BF M4A3-late hulls to compare to). Also, picked up two boxes of BF's M51 Ishermans. FLGS is having a 25% off sale, so I grabbed them. Hopefully will be able to pick up some AMX 13s this weekend. The M51s are definitely beautifully cast, but the commanders are the standard WWII Sherman/American tank commanders. Also have two bits that I don't know what they're for.
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Nov 7, 2013 00:26
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Popsicle sticks are OK for smaller stuff (e.g., 6mm), but for 15mm+ I prefer old-school clothespins. I mount the figs onto the tops and then let set the pins around the edge of an open topped cardboard box (just pick whatever small shipping box you have from a figure order). With the clothespin, you can manipulate the figure easily for painting. You can sort of see the pins in these WIP pics from some L.Imp Romans I did a few years back:  The box works well for mass spraying (i.e., primer, clearcoat, dull coat). Since I paint for FoG, I tend to do 12 mounted or 24 foot at a time, as those numbers line up with the basing scheme (mounted are 2 or 3 per base, and foot are 2/3/4 per base).
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Nov 8, 2013 18:36
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Is anybody going to Fall In next weekend?
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Nov 8, 2013 18:55
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Has anyone tried Hail Caesar? If so, how is it?
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Nov 10, 2013 00:01
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If Serotonin isn't currently banned, he can tell you all about it. Maybe even more than he already did in the OP.
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Nov 10, 2013 00:33
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I played my first game of Ronin today... or rather, I GMed for two twelve-year-olds who played it. We were having an open day at the club, and they wanted to play a tabletop game. It's hard to say from that experience how it actually plays, and I'm still not sure if I prefer it to Mordheim or any other GW rules-based skirmish system. Shooting seemed quite strong, even with only a single archer per side, but it was also partly strong due to the players not using available cover or trying to attack ranged models. It is very brutal in close combat, and stronger models quite easily defeated weaker ones in 1-on-1 combat in a turn or two. Next step will be to get more familiar with the rules (I skipped a lot of them, given the audience) and see if there is a way to build a kind of campaign system around the basic rules. Should be fun, if I get around to it.
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Nov 10, 2013 21:48
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So apparently WWPD has a copy of the new Desperate Measures book. Lot of awesome stuff in there, including: -"Hero of the Soviet Union" Battalions, which represent the best of the best of Soviet forces in the ending stage of the war. They're smaller than normal Soviet armies, but in return they get three excellent special rules: CiC and 2iC teams need a 5+ to be destroyed, skill tests are taken on a 3+, and, most importantly, they get to ignore Hens and Chicks. -New German special rule entitled "Enjoy the War", which makes it so that instead of rolling a single Platoon morale check individual teams role a 3+ to avoid breaking. -New German lists that give them a huge number of options, including Confident Trained King Tigers, Hetzers with Tiger Ace skills, and a whole bunch of other stuff. I've only gotten into FoW this past year with Americans, and I'm already tempted to go Red when the new book comes out with the Hero lists. How do existing Soviet players feel about the changes?
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Nov 15, 2013 01:14
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Acebuckeye13 posted:they get to ignore Hens and Chicks. Sounds like I'll be buying this book.
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Nov 15, 2013 13:09
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Does anyone know if there's actually any difference between the regular Zvezda Panzer III and the flamethrower version? Looking at pictures on the box they seem identical.
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Nov 16, 2013 07:08
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I know this is a video game thing, but if any of you are playing GTA V, I found this:
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Nov 16, 2013 21:17
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Say I happen to come across (buy) a ton of Xyston Thebans and Spartans. any suggestions for a ruleset for ancient Greece? I have a copy of Hoplomachia printed out, but worried the terminology and such will turn off my regular opponent. I love the depth, but if he had just called things by their "modern" names it might go over easier. Also have Hail Caesar on my shelf. What else is out there that will give a good game?
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Nov 18, 2013 16:41
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DBA/DBMM? Nice and simple, and the basing scheme is the same as for Hail Caesar and some other stuff.
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Nov 18, 2013 17:34
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I'd say Hail Caesar. There's also War and Conquest which I hear very good things about.
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Nov 18, 2013 18:50
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Acebuckeye13 posted:I've only gotten into FoW this past year with Americans, and I'm already tempted to go Red when the new book comes out with the Hero lists. How do existing Soviet players feel about the changes? On the hero lists, mostly mixed. They don't get H&C but they are trained and have small platoon sizes (3-5 tanks). I would advise a wait and see approach before jumping on soviets if the only reason is the hero lists.
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Nov 18, 2013 19:40
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Numlock posted:On the hero lists, mostly mixed. Gonna second this. Trained tanks without smoke is going to be rough. T-34/85s are fine tanks, and not having H&C is great, but they don't have any cool tricks like US armor (stabs, Jumbos, Patton). That said, some of the Soviet lists in there have some potential. MSPAR could be pretty good. SU-85s, SU-85ms, and SU-100s could make for an interesting core. The other nice thing will be integral AT on Soviet infantry. Desperate measures is only going to have mech and armored lists, so I wonder if this will filter through to infantry when that book comes around.
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Nov 19, 2013 00:43
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So, a friend of mine apparently found a new picture taken from Desperate Measures. 
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Nov 19, 2013 06:15
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What do you mean Rudel can't kill tanks with no plane? BEST. PILOT. EVER.  I think it's time to abandon game.
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Nov 19, 2013 15:56
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I'm not up on FoW aircraft rules, but does charmed basically mean your can potentially not-shoot him down like three or four times in a game?
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Nov 19, 2013 16:27
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Yup, that's exactly what it means.
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Nov 19, 2013 16:44
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moths posted:I'm not up on FoW aircraft rules, but does charmed basically mean your can potentially not-shoot him down like three or four times in a game? Normally, raw, aircraft that are shot down are 'destroyed' for the purposes of determining how many aircraft make it through. This does not affect how many aircraft are available in subsequent turns. However, now you have a named character flying a single bird, without that rule you will get angry grogs fighting over whether or not shooting him down would kill him or otherwise remove him from the game. In practice this acts as any normal air support with special rules. Charmed just reads like a clarification that, no, you didn't just blow 175 points just to lose your air support on the first turn. Otherwise, if he is 'shot down' he just fails to make his attack run as though he were 'destroyed' and can still come back next turn.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:12
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Air support that you could utterly remove from the table with one lucky shot would be a terrible idea after all. I'm looking at you, first and second editions.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:26
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So I decided on Hail Caesar for my greek armies. Hoplomachia looks very sweet, and the campaign system is brilliant, but I think hail caesar will be easier to explain and learn for ex-fantasy players. Now to determine basing. I think I am going to go with 80mm wide unit bases, depth depending on unit type, and maybe 50mm bases for small units. With it being hoplite warfare there isn't much in the way of formation changing, so I don't see the need for mutli-based units. also lets me skimp abit on models making little diorama units. Does anyone know if the greek hoplite lists in the biblical and classical army list book is worth getting, does it include say peltasts and psoli and such, or it it not much different than the main book. I can figure out rules for such troops pretty easy, but for ease it might be nice to have a reference? with the 80mm "normal" sized units, would using centimeters work well instead of halving distances in inches? I have a decent sized table, but it would feel cramped I think at full value movements.
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Nov 21, 2013 19:55
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Mr.Booger posted:So I decided on Hail Caesar for my greek armies. Hoplomachia looks very sweet, and the campaign system is brilliant, but I think hail caesar will be easier to explain and learn for ex-fantasy players. You can do what you like with measurements in my experience, as long as you are consistent. Heres the list for Later Greek Hoplites, that they recommend for the Pelopponesian wars. 
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Nov 21, 2013 20:42
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thanks, that helps alot. Looks alot like I would have done it, was curious how they were going to interpret peltasts.
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Nov 21, 2013 22:10
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Do any of you guys play Flames of War in Washington State? I was wondering if there was any other places to play it then the Panzer Depot or Games Matrix.
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Nov 23, 2013 13:12
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ElBrak posted:Do any of you guys play Flames of War in Washington State? I was wondering if there was any other places to play it then the Panzer Depot or Games Matrix. If you are looking for other players you could try the offical FoW forums. They have a club forum where people try to connect with other local players. Also a long shot: http://network.wwpd.net/playerfinder.php
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Nov 23, 2013 16:41
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Well I know that the Panzer Depot has regular games on Thursday night, I was just hoping for something closer to Renton. I don't have a car at the moment and have to take the bus or get a ride. I used to play at the Gameforge in Auburn, but they closed down after only being open for 2 years or so.
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Nov 23, 2013 18:21
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Got out all my Flames of War stuff out from where i stashed it and went through it all. I had forgotten like half the stuff i had bought. And still got a ton of infantry and t-34s to put together. I gotta get around to buying the new books for MW and LW Soviets and never played with the new version of Hen and Chicken, though most times I never bothered with the old version, since I used KV-85s in Guards Heavy Tank Companies to get around it.
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Nov 26, 2013 16:03
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ElBrak posted:...new version of Hen and Chicken, though most times I never bothered with the old version, since I used KV-85s in Guards Heavy Tank Companies to get around it. Such is the story of Soviets in FoW. Crafting lists to minimize the impact of a rule that supposedly benefits. The good news is that your KV-85 list is now a lot better than it was, as the Guards Heavy Tankovy now have some decent support options including Recon.
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Nov 26, 2013 16:59
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Numlock posted:Such is the story of Soviets in FoW. Crafting lists to minimize the impact of a rule that supposedly benefits. Well what I usually did was run a straight infantry company with the guards heavy tank selected as a support option. The infantry would eventually dig in once I rolled high enough and become unkillable, and the tanks would help kill anything that tried to dig out the infantry. Throw some Artillery and Anti-Tank guns in and I did ok. Course i only got to play maybe 4-5 times before the store i played at closed it doors forever.
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Nov 26, 2013 17:09
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ElBrak posted:Well what I usually did was run a straight infantry company with the guards heavy tank selected as a support option. The infantry would eventually dig in once I rolled high enough and become unkillable, and the tanks would help kill anything that tried to dig out the infantry. Throw some Artillery and Anti-Tank guns in and I did ok. Course i only got to play maybe 4-5 times before the store i played at closed it doors forever. A Strelkovy with a full Strelk company and a short one, heavy tanks, heavy mortars, some AT guns and Flamethrowers is what I ran in mid-war and sounds similar to what you were running. It is a list that is hard to beat.
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Nov 26, 2013 18:38
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I've noticed that AT guns seem to be all kinds of hillariously powerful in FoW. There's obvious mobility problems, but when you get something with 32" range or deploy in Ambush then that is mitigated somewhat by the sheer volume of poo poo you can fling downrange.
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Nov 26, 2013 18:48
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Arquinsiel posted:I've noticed that AT guns seem to be all kinds of hillariously powerful in FoW. There's obvious mobility problems, but when you get something with 32" range or deploy in Ambush then that is mitigated somewhat by the sheer volume of poo poo you can fling downrange. I once won a tourney by deploying a platoon of four 3" guns in a corner, denying more than half the board (that was poorly set up, tbh) from my armored company opponent. The game went as expected.
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Nov 26, 2013 19:47
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ElBrak posted:Do any of you guys play Flames of War in Washington State? I was wondering if there was any other places to play it then the Panzer Depot or Games Matrix. I used to until I moved after graduation. Sorry I missed you! Games Matrix was my FLGS.
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Nov 26, 2013 21:25
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Arquinsiel posted:I've noticed that AT guns seem to be all kinds of hillariously powerful in FoW. There's obvious mobility problems, but when you get something with 32" range or deploy in Ambush then that is mitigated somewhat by the sheer volume of poo poo you can fling downrange. How powerful AT guns are depends almost entirely on table setup. It's common to see guys laying out terrain in a way that might be good for a 28mm skirmish game (usually 40k) but is absolutely terrible for FoW. This generally leads to weird games (often in big tournaments) where I'm across from a guy running an bizarre (to me) list who's complaining about the table layout. It's not always some guy running a ton of AT guns but there is common theme of them being AT gun heavy and complaining about how much LOS blocking terrain there is even though the tables roughly follow BF guidelines for table building. Edit: This is also not counting the guys who come from groups where their ideas on how terrain works differ radically from the what the Rule Book says and start huge loud arguments about how high trees are vs how high that hill is. "What do you mean my 88's on this hill can't shoot at every single thing on the table?" Numlock fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Nov 30, 2013 |
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Nov 30, 2013 04:08
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Numlock posted:How powerful AT guns are depends almost entirely on table setup. I think that is one of the hardest jumps to make, since most people coming into FoW are usually coming from 40k. I seem to recall setting up 40k tables to encourage shooting each other, and maximizing visibility between pieces of terrain. FoW seems to be the exact opposite, setting up terrain to deny the opportunity of sniping tanks from 48" away. But 40k is probably the worst example of terrain, because I think 90% of the games I played terrain was set up like some kind of futuristic WWI style trenches. Concealing terrain on either side, with a "no man's land" in the middle with the occasional piece of terrain. Otherwise, I've come up with a few ideas for some scenarios I may force upon you guys in the coming weeks to test drive. Also, the AMX 13 75 is a bitch and a half to build.
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Nov 30, 2013 19:02
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YF19pilot posted:I think that is one of the hardest jumps to make, since most people coming into FoW are usually coming from 40k. Yeah roughly speaking there shouldn't be able to draw a LOS from any table edge to the opposite table edge or from one corner to another. There are exceptions its it's not necessarily bad if you can, but they should be very limited. quote:I seem to recall setting up 40k tables to encourage shooting each other, and maximizing visibility between pieces of terrain. FoW seems to be the exact opposite, setting up terrain to deny the opportunity of sniping tanks from 48" away. But 40k is probably the worst example of terrain, because I think 90% of the games I played terrain was set up like some kind of futuristic WWI style trenches. Concealing terrain on either side, with a "no man's land" in the middle with the occasional piece of terrain. There have been more than a few times I've looked over at the tables 40k guys were playing on and found that there was no terrain at all. Just fortifications and mans rear end in a top hat to elbow from one table edge to the other. I don't know what they are doing but it seems very alien to me.
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Nov 30, 2013 19:52
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Numlock posted:There have been more than a few times I've looked over at the tables 40k guys were playing on and found that there was no terrain at all. Just fortifications and mans rear end in a top hat to elbow from one table edge to the other. I don't know what they are doing but it seems very alien to me. Ah, yes, Planet Bowling Ball. I've had to play on those a few times, too. Personally, I think it's a player mindset of not wanting to put too much terrain because then their Big Toys can't fit on the table. When I was in college playing 40k, I was bitched at a few times for having a terrain-dense table because it meant that tanks and people actually had to move through slow-going/difficult terrain. In FoW, it seems like experienced players just take it in stride (unless it's bocage). Also, more people willing to assault buildings with tanks in FoW than in 40k.
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Nov 30, 2013 19:59
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| # ? May 9, 2024 21:37 |
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The other driving force behind 40K terrain choice is where close combat stands against ranged in the current meta. A table free of or choked with terrain exasperates this problem. I don't imagine you get much of this in historicals, since nobody is annually trying to sell you a new $50 Persian army book to invalidate half your opponent's Greeks.
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Nov 30, 2013 20:22
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