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Hello I am looking for a External HDD, and I was wondering which one to get. I have been looking at the: WD My Passport. I'm a graphic designer and I go between PCs and Macs a lot, would I be better to have it just be FAT32 or have it have it have two partitions for each? Thanks for the help. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E83X9P8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2LVN4GXK0NL8J&coliid=I9YEW7YM3CV8G
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Nov 24, 2013 01:02
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Yip Yips posted:Are you trying to use the same Windows installation with the new hardware? You can sometimes get away with this, I upgraded the guts of my system in 2011 and my Win7 install handled it just fine. Had a massive driver install on the first boot and it hasn't had as much as a hiccup since - I haven't reinstalled since February 2010. I would guess there's a critical component somewhere that Windows doesn't have a driver for.
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Nov 24, 2013 01:16
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cmykjester posted:Hello I am looking for a External HDD, and I was wondering which one to get. I have been looking at the: WD My Passport. I'm a graphic designer and I go between PCs and Macs a lot, would I be better to have it just be FAT32 or have it have it have two partitions for each? Thanks for the help. I keep one of my thumbdrives formatted as exFAT just for OSX/Windows transitions, hasn't caused me any problems yet.
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Nov 24, 2013 01:30
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I am an idiot. I am playing Rocksmith 2014 on a 32 inch tv, and went to change the resolution in game. I chose 1324 x something something something, and now my tv just says not supported. I can't go back, or see anything on screen anymore, but I can hear the game. HELP!!!
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Nov 24, 2013 02:16
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OnlyJuanMon posted:I am an idiot. I am playing Rocksmith 2014 on a 32 inch tv, and went to change the resolution in game. I chose 1324 x something something something, and now my tv just says not supported. I can't go back, or see anything on screen anymore, but I can hear the game. HELP!!! Alt-F4 to quit the game, then you can probably muck around either settings files or windowed mode to get it displayable again and change the resolution.
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Nov 24, 2013 02:47
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I can get back to the desktop, but I can't find anywhere outside the game to fiddle with the resolution
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Nov 24, 2013 02:52
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OnlyJuanMon posted:I can get back to the desktop, but I can't find anywhere outside the game to fiddle with the resolution From: http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/716851-Rocksmith-PC-Configuration-and-FAQ-s-Forums quote:Although most video options are accessible through the Rocksmith menus, for complete control, locate the Rocksmith.INI file. It's located in the same folder as the Rocksmith application. Typically this is either C:\Program Files\Steam\SteamApps\Common\Rocksmith or C:\ProgramFiles\Steam\SteamApps\Common\Rocksmith Demo. If you happen to get your Rocksmith into a state where it won’t load correctly, we've provided access to these settings just in case.
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Nov 24, 2013 02:57
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Don't think this needs to be in the Haus since I'm fairly certain I know what's wrong. 3TB Seagate Barracuda - Only 10 months old - Has been making clunk noises occasionally ever since I installed it, possibly related to parking/power. - Recently I've been suffering random slow down/shut downs into a hard lock, no BSOD. Have to use power button to restart computer - SMART OK - Tried to run SeaTools on the drive, system hangs. - Tried flattening/reformatting, still occurring. Fresh Win7 install, new PSU, Motherboard (Asrock Z87M Extreme4), CPU (i7 4770K). Memtest86+ on my RAM with 3 passes came out OK. Would it be safe to say my Barracuda is toast? JayKay fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 03:28
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JayKay posted:Don't think this needs to be in the Haus since I'm fairly certain I know what's wrong. If the HDD is making clunking noises, that's usually a bad sign. If it's still running, back up your data ASAP before attempting any further troubleshooting if you haven't already done so. Abnormal noises typically mean a mechanical defect, so I'd check to see what the warranty is on your part and get in touch with the seller or the manufacturer. The slow load times and random hard locks are also probably related to the HDD if Memtest is saying your RAM is alright. e: A quick Google search turns up this thread with a similar issue still getting SMART = OK, but also suggests that it could be the result of a faulty power supply: quote:In the past years I had three drives making a clicking sound. In two cases a faulty power supply was causing the problem. I still think the HDD is the likely culprit, but if you have a spare PSU lying around (or a spare system you could throw the HDD in) you could test the system with a different PSU first (after backing up your data) before you try to exchange the HDD. Mo_Steel fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 03:43
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Well, I might have figured out what was causing the freezes, it was my PCI wireless card! Yanked that sucker out and bought a USB adapter, and the crashes are not only gone, but my Wifi speed has increased! It's good to be finally using Windows 7 and more than 4GB of RAM again.
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Nov 24, 2013 04:27
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I'm having a weird issue with my Logitech F710 wireless controller. I set up a new computer, and when I use the controller with it I get problems with the sticks. Sometimes either stick will act as if I'm tilting it, even though I'm not. I can't make it happen consistently, but when it does happen it obviously ruins my game I tried different USB ports, putting in fresh batteries, not sure what else to do.
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Nov 24, 2013 14:13
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Can anyone recommend a budget oriented multimedia hard drive? Basically something I can rip a non-technically gifted family member's DVDs onto which has a hdmi port for him to hook into a TV and just select what he wants to watch from it? It doesn't need much disk space either since it won't be running any HD data, just DVDs ripped to MP4 with handbrake.
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Nov 24, 2013 20:01
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Experto Crede posted:Can anyone recommend a budget oriented multimedia hard drive? Basically something I can rip a non-technically gifted family member's DVDs onto which has a hdmi port for him to hook into a TV and just select what he wants to watch from it? It doesn't need much disk space either since it won't be running any HD data, just DVDs ripped to MP4 with handbrake. I've never heard of such a thing and would be interested to see one. AFAIK, HDMI is a video + audio only interface, so I'm not sure how this would work. You connect the hd to the hdmi port and I suppose the hd cage could have hardware to query the hd and send the list of contents over hdmi, but how to tell the hd which file to play? Maybe if there's a drive with a USB and HDMI interface? But I'm not aware of such a thing. Of course, there's lots I'm not aware of. I think you need a two piece solution, like a Roku + a hard drive.
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Nov 24, 2013 20:14
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regulargonzalez posted:I've never heard of such a thing and would be interested to see one. AFAIK, HDMI is a video + audio only interface, so I'm not sure how this would work. You connect the hd to the hdmi port and I suppose the hd cage could have hardware to query the hd and send the list of contents over hdmi, but how to tell the hd which file to play? Maybe if there's a drive with a USB and HDMI interface? But I'm not aware of such a thing. Of course, there's lots I'm not aware of. Like 3 or 4 years ago, several hard drive manufacturers tried to bring out external hard drives that had a media player built in, so you'd have a simple on-TV interface for playing music and video files on the drive. They weren't too popular so that's why they didn't stuck around. Essentially, it was like sticking a Roku/Apple TV/WDTV type device in the same case as an external hard drive, and restricting it to just playing local content rather than any sort of streaming support. Experto Crede posted:Can anyone recommend a budget oriented multimedia hard drive? Basically something I can rip a non-technically gifted family member's DVDs onto which has a hdmi port for him to hook into a TV and just select what he wants to watch from it? It doesn't need much disk space either since it won't be running any HD data, just DVDs ripped to MP4 with handbrake. As far as I'm aware, those products bombed in the marketplace and the only place you can buy one is used on ebay. You might have better luck buying a WD TV Live or similar media player and simply hooking up a USB hard drive to it for local storage. Additionally, depending on how new their TV is, it might be able to simply play videos off a USB drive. And if they have an Xbox 360 or PS3 video files can usually be played straight off of removeable storage. Nintendo Kid fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 20:19
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Install Windows posted:Like 3 or 4 years ago, several hard drive manufacturers tried to bring out external hard drives that had a media player built in, so you'd have a simple on-TV interface for playing music and video files on the drive. They weren't too popular so that's why they didn't stuck around. Yeah, his TV does have a USB port but the drat thing barely works. After your post I did some research though, and found basically what I needed, but sans hard drive, using swappable SD Cards, which would be ideal for his purposes (watching films whilst working abroad for a week at a time, making the Xbox/PS3 idea impractical too), as he can just take a fresh SD each time.
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Nov 24, 2013 20:26
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You could even glue a raspberry pi to an external drive and achieve good results. Xbmc supports hdmi passthrough.
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Nov 24, 2013 21:03
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Install Windows posted:As far as I'm aware, those products bombed in the marketplace and the only place you can buy one is used on ebay. Well, maybe the popcorn hour qualifies as an almost complete htpc these days, I don't know. Install Windows posted:You might have better luck buying a WD TV Live or similar media player and simply hooking up a USB hard drive to it for local storage. EDIT Experto Crede posted:After your post I did some research though, and found basically what I needed, but sans hard drive, using swappable SD Cards, which would be ideal for his purposes (watching films whilst working abroad for a week at a time, making the Xbox/PS3 idea impractical too), as he can just take a fresh SD each time. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 22:30
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This is my PC: Asus Z87-A ATX motherboard Core i7 3.6GHz Haswell CPU Geforce 650 graphics card Enermax 700W PSU I plan to upgrade to a Geforce 770. Do I need a new PSU? Baron Bifford fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 13:33
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As long as your PSU is made by a good manufacturer it should be more than enough.
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Nov 25, 2013 13:38
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Baron Bifford posted:This is my PC: No.
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Nov 25, 2013 14:58
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Depends on how old it is since Enermax used to make some really lovely power supplies. If it's 5 years old or more, replace it. Their newer models are usually pretty good so if it's recent then it should be fine.
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Nov 25, 2013 22:36
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I wasn't sure if this should go here or IYG, but here goes: I'm looking for an SD card for my video camera (a Panasonic HDC-TM700, if that matters). It can take up to a 64GB SDXC card, but looking at prices (and user reviews) on Newegg, there seem to be some reliability issues with them across manufacturers (assuming the user reviews are themselves reliable). So, is it still worth my time to go with the largest card my camera can handle, or should I consider something smaller and possibly less prone to errors? Also, would it be better to get a microSD card with adapter, or look for the larger-sized cards?
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Nov 26, 2013 01:49
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Avoid Adata cards. You may want to avoid the larger Sandisk cards since there's a lot of unconfirmed IYG comments that they've had issues with them (although it was probably more problems with the S3 than anything else). If it takes the larger cards natively use that. I wouldn't try an adapter unless you can get confirmation that a micro card would work with a specific adapter. Make sure you buy from a reputable source since counterfeit cards exist - if you're buying on Amazon make sure the seller is 'fulfilled by Amazon'.
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Nov 26, 2013 08:44
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Meaty Ore posted:I wasn't sure if this should go here or IYG, but here goes: As a general rule, I try to stay one size smaller than the maximum size out on the market. There just always seems to be more issues for memory cards that are pushing the storage envelope. In this case I'd go with 32 gb, but that's me. It's still plenty of space -- 32 gb will give you ~3 hours of blu-ray or better quality video, and about twice that if you go to cable tv / satellite quality hd video quality. As far as micro w/ adapter vs native sized, I've never run into a problem with either. The micro sd will give you more flexibility if you want to use it in a phone or something.
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Nov 26, 2013 15:17
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Meaty Ore posted:I'm looking for an SD card for my video camera (a Panasonic HDC-TM700, if that matters). It can take up to a 64GB SDXC card, but looking at prices (and user reviews) on Newegg, there seem to be some reliability issues with them across manufacturers (assuming the user reviews are themselves reliable). So, is it still worth my time to go with the largest card my camera can handle, or should I consider something smaller and possibly less prone to errors? Also, would it be better to get a microSD card with adapter, or look for the larger-sized cards? The advice my photographer friends always follow is "more smaller cards is better than fewer big ones" - less likely that one failed card destroys your whole vacation, less likely that one forgotten card, etc. That, and like the poster above, I've always had more issues with "biggest on market" sizes.
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Nov 26, 2013 15:27
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I'm trying to update the BIOS (first time!) on my Gigabyte P55-USB3 rev2 using the Gigabyte @BIOS utility and everything seems to be going fine -- until I get to the model selection screen. I have a rev2 board (physically inspected the board) but the only option listed in the utility is rev1.1. I was going to chalk it up to translation weirdness or whatever but remembered this is a BIOS and I don't wanna mess it up. Anyone have experience with this utility? Should I just go with the traditional Q-Flash (or DOS)?
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Nov 26, 2013 17:42
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spider wisdom posted:I'm trying to update the BIOS (first time!) on my Gigabyte P55-USB3 rev2 using the Gigabyte @BIOS utility and everything seems to be going fine -- until I get to the model selection screen. I have a rev2 board (physically inspected the board) but the only option listed in the utility is rev1.1. http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3440#bios Drop the unzipped BIOS file on a USB drive and access it via Q-Flash at boot.
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Nov 26, 2013 19:17
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regulargonzalez posted:As a general rule, I try to stay one size smaller than the maximum size out on the market. There just always seems to be more issues for memory cards that are pushing the storage envelope. In this case I'd go with 32 gb, but that's me. It's still plenty of space -- 32 gb will give you ~3 hours of blu-ray or better quality video, and about twice that if you go to cable tv / satellite quality hd video quality. Siochain posted:The advice my photographer friends always follow is "more smaller cards is better than fewer big ones" - less likely that one failed card destroys your whole vacation, less likely that one forgotten card, etc. Thanks for the advice; I was starting to lean that way anyhow, so the validation is most helpful. 
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Nov 26, 2013 20:51
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The external wifi antenna on my home pc just broke. It was the stock antenna packaged with the Asrock Z87 E-ITX motherboard, a two-connector'd flimsy black square, and I'm out of the replacement period (also it was totally my fault). The motherboard has two antenna connectors. Is it okay if I just plug a single-connector antenna, like this one, into it? Or do I need to find a dual-connector antenna?
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Nov 26, 2013 21:29
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That won't work, as the board wants a 5 GHz-capable antenna. You need a dual-band antenna. Number of connectors is irrelevant - if you have a single-connector antenna, get two of 'em, one for each plug.
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Nov 26, 2013 21:34
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Thanks, that's good to know! Super Power Supply looks like the only game in town on US Amazon for this kind of thing. If anybody else is in a similar situation, this antenna kit is probably what I'm going to buy based on the convergence of price & having not-terrible reviews.
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Nov 26, 2013 21:59
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Modem and Router question / possible recommendation request. The last time I used Comcast as my ISP was from 2003-2011. Around 2008 or so I bought my own modem. This guy here. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16825122003 Motorola SB5101 cable modem. Specs on newegg state 38 Mbps down, and 30 Mbps up. For the past two and half years, I've had a fiber optic connection and have just been running a cat5 cable from the wall through a router and into my PC. The modem has been collecting dust in a box. I've recently moved, and it looks like I'm going to be returning to Comcast. Will likely be going with their 50 Mbps connection. Not that I expect to hit that speed all the time, but am I correct in assuming that my old modem would bottleneck me? If that's the case, any recommendations on a new modem to buy? Also, my girlfriend and I are currently using her older model Apple Time Capsule for a router. I think she bought it in 2009 or so. 1TB drive, model A1355. With our current set up the Time Capsule is connected to the wall, and my PC is hard wired to the Time Capsule. Speedtest runs indicate that I'm still getting the full 20 Mbps speed that we're paying for. The girlfriend connects wirelessly on her laptop, and we stream video to a WDTV box from my PC through the Time Capsule just fine. Assuming I need to buy a newer modem to handle the 50Mbps connection, would the Time Capsule act as a bottleneck if I'm on a PC connected to us directly? I've Googled a bit, but can't find any solid answer. Any help and or advice is appreciated.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:51
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Beatnik-Filmstar posted:Modem and Router question / possible recommendation request. That's exactly my connection -- Comcast, 50 down / 12 up. I usually hit 55 down / 12-13 up on speedtest. And yes, you have a docsis 2.0 modem that won't get full speed. Here's what I use: Modem - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16825122015 Router - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR4300-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B0088CJT4U/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385508395&sr=8-1-fkmr1 Both have been rock solid. Router is nice for the dual radio that will let your wireless n devices run at full speed; single radio routers will fall back to mixed mode if both g and n devices are connected, resulting in your n devices only getting g speeds. As to your specific question about the Apple Time Capsule, I don't know -- I'm not really familiar with them. regulargonzalez fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Nov 27, 2013 00:28
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regulargonzalez posted:That's exactly my connection -- Comcast, 50 down / 12 up. I usually hit 55 down / 12-13 up on speedtest. And yes, you have a docsis 2.0 modem that won't get full speed. Here's what I use: Thanks for the input. New modem time it is. Not nearly concerned about the Time Capsule question, I suppose. If it bottlenecks me I'll just connect my PC through the new modem and connect the Time Machine though the old modem at another outlet on the wall. Girlfriend won't care about any decrease in speed for what she uses her laptop for, and I can just add a little wireless card to stream video to the WDTV box straight from the PC. Alereon posted:You can only have one modem active on your account, so you would need a new router connected to your new modem (and all your devices connected to that router). Ahhhhh ha ha ha. That's right. Found that out the hard way years ago by adding a second modem to my Comcast account only to find my bill doubled the next month. Potentially dumb question. At this point I can't really dump the Time Capsule since my girlfriend uses it for backup purposes. If it were to act as a bottleneck for my PC when wired to it, would it be possible to wire the PC to the new modem, but split that cat5 cable and run half of it to the Time Capsule? There's no way in Hell that would work, right? Edit - the more I read, I don't think the Time Capsule will cause any issues if I'm connected directly to it. Will leave my prior absurd question in place anyway. Maybe someone can laugh at me. Tony Phillips fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Nov 27, 2013 00:42
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Beatnik-Filmstar posted:Not nearly concerned about the Time Capsule question, I suppose. If it bottlenecks me I'll just connect my PC through the new modem and connect the Time Machine though the old modem at another outlet on the wall. Girlfriend won't care about any decrease in speed for what she uses her laptop for, and I can just add a little wireless card to stream video to the WDTV box straight from the PC.
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Nov 27, 2013 01:09
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I have some stuff I want for safe keeping but don't know how to store it. I was thinking of an external HDD in a safe with some other paperwork. How's that sound? Should it be put in a static-free bag? Is there anything I should worry about in the future with it? How do you store your digital personal information, pictures, video, etc?
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Nov 27, 2013 11:28
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rizuhbull posted:I have some stuff I want for safe keeping but don't know how to store it. I was thinking of an external HDD in a safe with some other paperwork. How's that sound? Should it be put in a static-free bag? Is there anything I should worry about in the future with it? How do you store your digital personal information, pictures, video, etc? How long do you want to store it? http://www.mdisc.com/  I actually don't have any real knowledge on this subject, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity. I do remember reading that SSDs and (most?) other forms of flash memory start losing data if left unpowered long enough. So if you're going the hard drive route, make sure it's a mechanical one. And nowadays the
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Nov 27, 2013 12:19
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rizuhbull posted:I have some stuff I want for safe keeping but don't know how to store it. I was thinking of an external HDD in a safe with some other paperwork. How's that sound? Should it be put in a static-free bag? Is there anything I should worry about in the future with it? How do you store your digital personal information, pictures, video, etc? Best practice is to have onsite and offsite backups. It's not too difficult but it all depends on how much you want to spend and how backed up you want to be. I set up a PC as Network Attached Storage so that I could back up all the computers to it. It runs with some disk redundancy so I know my stuff is in two places. If the house caught fire I'd lose everything, so I'm looking into online backups. The prices are reasonable but they usually don't let you upload very fast so I'm mostly going to back up pictures and stuff once, my documents are mostly text and they can be synced more regularly since they're not so big. The NAS megathread is a good place to look if you're thinking of something more than an external disk (though that is a good start if you have no backups, hard disks can up and die at any time): http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2801557
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Nov 27, 2013 13:04
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rizuhbull posted:I have some stuff I want for safe keeping but don't know how to store it. I was thinking of an external HDD in a safe with some other paperwork. How's that sound? Should it be put in a static-free bag? Is there anything I should worry about in the future with it? How do you store your digital personal information, pictures, video, etc? I am not interested in building my own NAS at the moment, so I've been considering something like this: http://www.cnet.com/network-storage/wd-my-cloud-ex4/4505-3382_7-35831703.html . It is comparable to the Synology box but they come with HDDs already installed and end up being a bit cheaper and comparable feature-wise. I would like to get the 12 or 16TB box configured for RAID 1 for local backups and then probably go for Amazon's S3 glacier long-term data storage service for redundant backup of critical data.
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Nov 27, 2013 13:58
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rizuhbull posted:I have some stuff I want for safe keeping but don't know how to store it. I was thinking of an external HDD in a safe with some other paperwork. How's that sound? Should it be put in a static-free bag? Is there anything I should worry about in the future with it? How do you store your digital personal information, pictures, video, etc? How much data are we talking about here? If its only a few tens of gigabytes (or less) you could considering writing it to quality DVD-R media (ie, not the "spindle of 50 on sale for $10 at Best Buy" variety) at the lowest speed setting your burner supports (and run the verify afterwards.) Make multiple copies if the data is highly critical, and then store them in a safe deposit box, maybe in an airtight container with a few dessicant packs if you're really paranoid. Industry estimates put the archival lifespan of current DVD-R media at a minimum of 30 years, and 100 on the highly optimistic end (optimistic because there's really no way to know what condition recorded media will be in in 100 years from now.)
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Nov 27, 2013 21:10
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