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Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
Duel will be the most advanced/sophisticated of the three. Musha is based on the Gundam OYW type, which is a good kit but a bit on the fragile side. Wing Zero should be fine, as it came out well after MG had gotten through its problematic phase, but the pearl finish is definitely something to avoid.

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TasogareNoKagi
Jul 11, 2013

BizarroAzrael posted:

A SAL package from HLJ will take about 2-3 weeks to the UK, right? Trying to pin down what kits I want to get back into things, and with Christmas coming up I may be at my folks for a few weeks. just a pain I can't airbrush where I am.

East coast US here; my experience is that SAL slows to a crawl during the holiday season, and even EMS takes a bit longer. I've had RSAL orders that shipped in late November only show up after Christmas.

Babysitter Super Sleuth
Apr 26, 2012

my posts are as bad the Current Releases review of Gone Girl

Bimmi posted:

Duel will be the most advanced/sophisticated of the three. Musha is based on the Gundam OYW type, which is a good kit but a bit on the fragile side. Wing Zero should be fine, as it came out well after MG had gotten through its problematic phase, but the pearl finish is definitely something to avoid.

I'd hardly call the OYW gundam fragile, that was my first MG and something I've always disliked is how almost every other MG I've built since felt like a delicate flower in comparison. Things a goddamn tank.

I'd also recommend against a pearl finish, though the WZC master grade is a significant step up from the PG from what I hear.

Weissritter
Jun 14, 2012

mr. stefan posted:

It's kind of expensive, it's called the MG Full Armor Unicorn.

What are you talking ab- :stare:

That is a lot of weapons. :stare:

arhra
Jun 27, 2006

TasogareNoKagi posted:

East coast US here; my experience is that SAL slows to a crawl during the holiday season, and even EMS takes a bit longer. I've had RSAL orders that shipped in late November only show up after Christmas.

I've generally had fairly good experiences over the Christmas season with SAL to the UK for the past few years - a little slower than usual, but mostly still within the usual 2-3 week timeframe (just averaging a bit closer to the 3-week mark than the rest of the year). The only time I've had major delays is a few years back when a freak snowstorm shut down the Royal Mail entirely just as the holiday post rush started, leading to my RG Char's Zaku taking nearly 6 weeks to arrive (shipped at the end of November, didn't arrive until early January).

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today

mr. stefan posted:

I'd hardly call the OYW gundam fragile

The parts holding the ankle guards on as well as the hips definitely are, to kind of a ridiculous degree. I also think mine must have been a bad batch of plastic or something, because several other parts have cracked of their own accord, e.g: I used to keep it in a pose that required a significant amount of blue-tack on the one of the feet, and one day all the snap pegs on the sole gave way simultaneously. It's probably the most badly-broken MG I have, to the extent that I bought an extra just for spare parts.

On the other hand, it's survived several shelf plunges onto solid tile with no apparent damage, so

Bimmi fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Nov 25, 2013

TARDISman
Oct 28, 2011



Well, I guess the Build Support pack for the Sengoku Astray is going to be just a crapton of shiny weapons. Which I'm entirely ok with. Also

:allears:

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn

TARDISman posted:

Well, I guess the Build Support pack for the Sengoku Astray is going to be just a crapton of shiny weapons.



Haha, you weren't kidding. This is pretty much make your own Musha Gundam right here.

Caros
May 14, 2008

TARDISman posted:

Well, I guess the Build Support pack for the Sengoku Astray is going to be just a crapton of shiny weapons. Which I'm entirely ok with. Also

:allears:

I absolutely love Build fighters, but no. I refuse to acknowledge this is a thing that exists.

I'm sorry.

TaurusOxford
Feb 10, 2009

Dad of the Year 2021

Caros posted:

I absolutely love Build fighters, but no. I refuse to acknowledge this is a thing that exists.

I'm sorry.

Really? Everything we've seen so far in BF and you draw the line at the Meteor Hopper?

Caros
May 14, 2008

TaurusOxford posted:

Really? Everything we've seen so far in BF and you draw the line at the Meteor Hopper?

I... I have to.

The thing has a goddamened jet fighter mode... what possible use could it have for some weird rear end unicycle thing...

I just don't get it! :negative:

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
The Fenice is missing a wing, it can't use Bird Mode.

Droyer
Oct 9, 2012

BlitzBlast posted:

The Fenice is missing a wing, it can't use Bird Mode.

This only makes the whole thing seem even dumber.

Monaghan
Dec 29, 2006

If you guys aren't looking forward to the fenice gundam zipping around on that thing and blowing up gunpla, then I really don't know what to say to you people. :colbert:

Zedd
Jul 6, 2009

I mean, who would have noticed another madman around here?



Caros posted:

I just don't get it! :negative:

It's an Italian dude picking up chicks with gunpla, ofcourse he needs a vespa!

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Droyer posted:

This only makes the whole thing seem even dumber.

Wing zero EW could have done the "one winged angel" gimmick.

Triggerhappypilot
Nov 8, 2009

SVMS-01 UNION FLAG GREATEST MOBILE SUIT

ENACT = CHEAP EUROTRASH COPY






Built my Enact Custom. There are still some parts I'm not to happy about (I didn't have the right color for the gray parts so I left them unpainted for now, and the paint's a little uneven in some areas), but all things considered, I feel like it's a decent first attempt. The dark paint I used kind of makes it look a little weathered when mixed with the black gloss I used for the panel lines, so I used an off-white color for the cockpit sides and the rotor shield so that it wouldn't like only one part had been weathered. Leaving the gray unpainted does make it look a little disjointed, though.

I really like the Enact/Flag design, it's probably one of the best grunt design in the past decade. It's a shame they stopped making them, I can't find the Over-Flag anywhere and the places that have the regular Flag are charging twice as much. Also, the top set of wings is really fragile- I somehow managed to break both of the attachment hooks and had to glue the top set in place. It's no big deal since they don't move in the transformation sequence, but it's kind of strange.

One thing did bug me though. Looking at the pictures of it in the show:


The color of paint I used is much closer to the actual color of the machine in the show- the runners it came on were a pretty bright blue. Yet looking at the Runners for the regular Union Flag, it's clear that Bandai is capable of molding the plastic in a darker shade of blue. It sounds :tinfoil:, but it seems like Bandai intentionally makes the color schemes off a little in order to encourage people to paint the models/buy their paints? It's certainly a practice that European and American companies have taken to, but it seems odd to both use colored plastic and encourage people to paint at the same time. I guess it's done for the kids/people who don't have enough time or effort to paint these things.

TaurusOxford
Feb 10, 2009

Dad of the Year 2021

BlitzBlast posted:

The Fenice is missing a wing, it can't use Bird Mode.

It's not actually missing a wing, it just has both wings mounted on the left side of the back.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn

Triggerhappypilot posted:

The color of paint I used is much closer to the actual color of the machine in the show- the runners it came on were a pretty bright blue. Yet looking at the Runners for the regular Union Flag, it's clear that Bandai is capable of molding the plastic in a darker shade of blue. It sounds :tinfoil:, but it seems like Bandai intentionally makes the color schemes off a little in order to encourage people to paint the models/buy their paints?

It's more that Bandai makes the HGs bright and colorful to appeal to children.

As for your kit, I can't tell that well due to the photo quality but either you really need to practice thinning your paints more, or you forgot to wash off the plastic residue after you took a knife to it. The paint's pretty uneven. Either way I can see some nubs all over the place so you might want to work on those too.

Aside from those though, nice job for your first attempt! Consider grabbing a pencil, scribbling over the white sections, and smearing it with your thumb. It actually makes for a nice looking grime.

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
How do you guys paint parts like this:


(steps 2 and 7)

The most forward solution just seems like judicious masking but I want to make sure there's no cool pro tips for it. I wouldn't ask save for the fact I know I'm going to have to glue the seams along the shins and possible the arms.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
It's weird to see that sort of parts breakdown on anything produced after the Reagan administration.

As far as I know, the only solution is to finish and paint the trapped assemblies, and then finish and paint whatever goes around them. Does that suck? Yes, it does.

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Yeah I figured. It's not too big of a deal so long as I get that seam cleaned up nice. I'll probably just do a clear coat on the outer parts.

SethSeries
Sep 10, 2013



So I'm going back to finish my Lancelot here in a week and I bought some of the Tamiya gold spray paint for the gold bits. Is there a smart way to apply that, or just spray, allow dry, recoat, repeat? I saw some people held them up on sticks?

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
People hold pieces up with sticks both so they can dry without risk of the paint touching anything and so they don't have to hold the piece still while painting it.

General rule of thumb for spraycans is to spray from about a foot away. Usual painting tips (paint in multiple thin coats, let it dry before doing the next one, shake your paints, etc) still apply.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
I also like to let the cans steep in hot water just before using them, as this purportedly causes a finer breakdown in the spray mist and thus a smoother finish (far and away my greatest issue with spray paints is that drat rough/orange-peel surface you so often get – loving maddening)

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Yeah you could try using some skewers either in the female holes on the inside of the piece or if you can't jam it in, use some little clips you can get from places like michael's and sometimes wal-mart.

Bimmi posted:

I also like to let the cans steep in hot water just before using them, as this purportedly causes a finer breakdown in the spray mist and thus a smoother finish (far and away my greatest issue with spray paints is that drat rough/orange-peel surface you so often get – loving maddening)

I don't know if my instrument experience is anything to go by in this case, but orange peel is usually caused by that and moisture, so anyone worried about it, keep an eye on the humidity I guess

SethSeries
Sep 10, 2013



Alright excellent. I'll keep that in mind. We thought about hand painting each piece gold, but there's so much to paint.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
Oh yeah, if you can try and coat each piece in a rich brown before you put on gold. It'll make the end result look better, like putting on gloss black under silver/steel.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Bimmi posted:

I also like to let the cans steep in hot water just before using them, as this purportedly causes a finer breakdown in the spray mist and thus a smoother finish (far and away my greatest issue with spray paints is that drat rough/orange-peel surface you so often get – loving maddening)

It also keeps the can spraying smoothly for longer - go long enough and the temperature drop from the expanding gas will cause the nozzle to freeze up.

SethSeries
Sep 10, 2013



BlitzBlast posted:

Oh yeah, if you can try and coat each piece in a rich brown before you put on gold. It'll make the end result look better, like putting on gloss black under silver/steel.

There a recommended brand? I've learned that Gunpla pens will only get me so far.

Ignimbrite
Jan 5, 2010

BALLS BALLS BALLS
Dinosaur Gum
I love my vallejo paints.

Just wish I didn't have to replace the metallics after forgetting I have them for a year or two... though that's more my fault than the paints' :v:

TARDISman
Oct 28, 2011



So I've been looking at the K9 Sniper for the past week and I was trying to remember where I've seen this gimmick before. Then it hit me. Crying Wolf from MGS4. Now I want this guy even more!

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン

BlitzBlast posted:

If you're using laquer primers too, you'll have to "mist" it; just put on a very tiny amount for the first coat so the solvent evaporates before it can affect the plastic. Once you have that down you can be a bit more reckless.

I know car models have people sand after priming to get a smooth finish, but that's to be expected. You sand all the layers on those things.

You can put another coat between the panel line and the decals if you want, but it's unnecessary. It's just important to do panel lines first in case any of your decals go over a panel line. Because let me tell you, nothing like having to scrape off a waterslide because you didn't notice there was a panel line underneath it. :shepface:

Ah I just thought of something so I had to dredge this up from the past. What do you do when a decal will go over a panel line?

http://zgmfxg.web.fc2.com/MUV_LUV/TERMINATOR/1/TERMINATOR_2.html look at some of the detail shots on this for an example of something that doesn't look quite right. He just panel lined then applied the decals over top, making them look less like paint and more like...decals on the robot.

Kurui Reiten
Apr 24, 2010

Wow, that does not look right, does it?

I can think of a few options; maybe panel lining over them again, maybe just taking a nail or a toothpick and sliding it along the decal where the panel line is, forcing some of it into the gap and making it look more indented there.

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Maybe some setting solution or softener or whichever one I'm trying to think of would help for things like that? I guess you could put them down and then cut them along the panel line.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
Micro sol softener would help, yeah. You could also just straight up cut the decal in two along the panel line.

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
the sprue images for the titanium Nu gundam are out, I cant tell if they are undergated or what. This is going to be my first coated build and Im concerned my trimmers may be a little dull. It was never an issue before because I sand and prime usually.

What are the sharpest/best trimmers I can buy? I have heard the SPN-120 "God Hand" :3: Nippers are great but they are $30. Can anyone recommend something?

Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Nov 28, 2013

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
It doesn't look undergated from the sprues I've seen. I have a pair of the God Hands (the packaging is hilarious) but I haven't tried them yet. I can cut a few parts for you and let you know how they compare to my standard Xuron nippers.

TaurusOxford
Feb 10, 2009

Dad of the Year 2021
Why the hell are those Godhand cutters 100 dollars on ebay? :psyduck:

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muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Dude it's got gold foil on the packaging. It's loving HARDCORE.

haha oh my god i just looked at the website for them and other than the anime mascot girl it says something about being like the katana of nippers or something and shows a picture of a dude folding steel OVER 1000 TIMES masterwork nippers

muike fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Nov 28, 2013

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