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Yakattak posted:What year? I know on 08+ C Diff +/- lets you pick from less (-) traction and (+) more traction. But isn't full lock true 50/50? Actually, full open without a rearward bias is true 50:50. Without any lockup from the diff the torque split will always be 50:50 no matter what the traction. So if you have one side on ice and the other on pavement, the side with pavement will only the the amount of torque the side on ice can generate. So while that wheel on ice will spin really fast, it might only take 5 lb-ft to do. Therefore the wheel on pavement only gets 5 lb-ft and so you don't go anywhere. With any amount of lockup, the torque split is dependent on the traction and amount of lockup. So the easy example is a 100% locked diff where only one axle has traction. All of the torque will get sent to that end through the locked diff. With a partial amount of lockup the bias will be somewhere in the middle. The auto (+) and (-) shift the dccd map toward more or less lockup. So on an auto-x course for example you might use (-) to keep the center from locking up excessively and causing understeer, while on snow you would want to use (+) so the car has more traction and dccd reacts more quickly.
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Nov 26, 2013 21:44
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c355n4 posted:Sooo, the Outback threw a P2138 code. Car immediately cuts gas and requires a restart to get going again. Sounds like the TPS system has an issue something about mistmatched voltages from the pedal sensors. I plan on cleaning the contacts and connectors first. But, in the meantime I've been compiling part #s for things that might need to be replaced. I know the TPS by the throttle body is #22633AA151. I can't figure out what the part # for the pedal sensor is though. 36010AE041 seems to be the Accelerator Pedal Assembly.
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Nov 27, 2013 04:11
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I've had my new Impreza for only a few days but already I like it more than my last one (that got wrecked). It's just so spacious (Hatch vs Sedan), and the facelift 03 model looks so much nicer than the 90s design.
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Nov 27, 2013 08:39
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I have a 2002 Impreza TS hatch, with 139,XXX km (~86/87,000 miles). As far as I know, it has the original exhaust, and the catalytic converter is starting to go - I swear I'm even starting to get the odd whiff of mildly-rotten egg in the cabin. A local guy has a genuine (not replica) Borla unequal length header and high-flow cat, both with 20,000km (~12,000mi). The header has never been wrapped, and has no cracks. He also has a factory STI catback, to round out the system. So far, I know I'd need gaskets, and front/rear O2 sensors (which look fairly pricey). My biggest question is, he had it on a 2000 RS (sedan). From the digging I've done, it looks like the engine is the same, so would everything fit my car?
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Nov 27, 2013 09:21
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jamal posted:Actually, full open without a rearward bias is true 50:50. Without any lockup from the diff the torque split will always be 50:50 no matter what the traction. So if you have one side on ice and the other on pavement, the side with pavement will only the the amount of torque the side on ice can generate. So while that wheel on ice will spin really fast, it might only take 5 lb-ft to do. Therefore the wheel on pavement only gets 5 lb-ft and so you don't go anywhere. With any amount of lockup, the torque split is dependent on the traction and amount of lockup. So the easy example is a 100% locked diff where only one axle has traction. All of the torque will get sent to that end through the locked diff. With a partial amount of lockup the bias will be somewhere in the middle. I'm driving up to a snow rally in a couple weekends and can't wait to try out my DCCDpro in the snow, although I wish the gc8's had thrust vectoring.
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Nov 27, 2013 11:09
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Speaking of AC, mine just died on the trip to Miami. Any tips for troubleshooting?
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Nov 28, 2013 00:15
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Wrar posted:Speaking of AC, mine just died on the trip to Miami. Any tips for troubleshooting? Does the compressor kick on when toggled? So you have a way off testing the pressure in the lines?
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Nov 28, 2013 00:45
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I'm not sure. It feels colder for a second and then is air-temp again.
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Nov 28, 2013 02:29
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Wrar posted:I'm not sure. It feels colder for a second and then is air-temp again. Probably low pressure on the refrigerant.
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Nov 29, 2013 03:10
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So my car got written off, and I need to get a new one. Dude for 6,300 you can find a cheap 99 GT foz and have all the bolt on WRX wizzardry with somewhere to bone out your bird in the back. I 'm in the same boat atm, I'm after a cheap manual Gt Foz i only need it for 6 months then i'm going to sell it, so i want a clean straight manual. My Brumby is on it's last legs, loving E10 is killing it.
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Nov 29, 2013 06:00
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VelociBacon posted:I'm driving up to a snow rally in a couple weekends and can't wait to try out my DCCDpro in the snow, although I wish the gc8's had thrust vectoring. I'm racing in a snow rally next weekend and can't wait to try out my DCCDPro 
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Nov 29, 2013 06:07
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MrZig posted:I'm racing in a snow rally next weekend and can't wait to try out my DCCDPro Did you want that old axle?
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Nov 29, 2013 07:42
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MrZig posted:I'm racing in a snow rally next weekend and can't wait to try out my DCCDPro I really want to know how well the DCCDPro does. I do a bunch of ice/snow racing and want to know if it's worth it or not to buy the DCCDPro.
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Nov 29, 2013 15:28
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G-Mach posted:I really want to know how well the DCCDPro does. I do a bunch of ice/snow racing and want to know if it's worth it or not to buy the DCCDPro. If you already have a DCCD for ice racing you're better off just setting it to full 50:50 with the standard controller I believe. I think that's one of the times they say in the DCCDpro instructions to just adjust it all the way to lock anyways.
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Nov 29, 2013 15:32
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I put some Subaru-sized wheels and tires up on SA Mart and the selling thread, if anyone needs some new shoes (225/40/18 unmounted Blizzaks and same size Pilot Super Sports on 5x100 Enkei EKM3s): http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3589909
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Nov 29, 2013 20:48
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So I received my A/C belt and pulley. Anyone have a good guide on how to install them? I mainly just don't understand how to tighten the tensioner.
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Nov 30, 2013 02:42
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Yakattak posted:So I received my A/C belt and pulley. Anyone have a good guide on how to install them? I mainly just don't understand how to tighten the tensioner.   I don't know what Subaru you have, but these are the instructions for my EJ205 WRX, and it was similar on my EJ251 2.5RS. You loosen the lock bolt on the tensionser (the bolt that goes towards the block), and then you can turn the adjusting bolt (the long bolt that goes towards the ground) to set the tension on the A/C (rear) belt.
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Nov 30, 2013 04:19
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I accidently put a hole in the rad in my rally car  What's the best way to fix this? My race is in a week. Tig weld?  VelociBacon posted:Did you want that old axle? Nah, thanks though.
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Nov 30, 2013 04:29
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I recently took my 13 STI in because it was making a squealing noise when I turned and the car was under load (going slowly in reverse for example). They replaced the power steering pump under warranty even though I could barely get the car to reproduce the sound. Apparently it's a known issue on the STIs. It's been about three weeks and the sound is still there although slightly less prevalent, it still squeals and feels like the power steering gets really heavy. Do I need to bleed the lines or should I just take it back in? The problem is I'll need to reproduce the sound and it doesn't happen all the time. Any tips on what I could look at or tell them to look at?
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Nov 30, 2013 08:04
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I don't know what the failure mode is on the MY13 P-S pumps that's causing them to replace them, but when mine went out last year (05) I noticed bubbles in the power steering fluid after driving around a while (in addition to the symptoms you describe). If you've got air in the lines, I would expect to see that.
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Nov 30, 2013 15:43
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Accessport came in. Pants were shat. Why did I wait so long to get one.
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Nov 30, 2013 16:23
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Anyone know what a decent range would be for fuel pressure on my 98 STi? Been having what feels like fuel cuts on the occasional hard acceleration, hoping to check this first.
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Nov 30, 2013 22:31
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43 psi + the manifold pressure
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Dec 1, 2013 00:13
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VelociBacon posted:Anyone know what a decent range would be for fuel pressure on my 98 STi? Been having what feels like fuel cuts on the occasional hard acceleration, hoping to check this first. Sure you're not overboosting?
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Dec 1, 2013 04:15
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Thanks jamal.MrZig posted:Sure you're not overboosting? I haven't been looking at the gauge as it happened but I haven't had any issue with overboosting before, it's actually very well controlled, even on 2nd gear pulls it gets up to the targeted 16psi and stays rock steady - doesn't come over it for a split second and then settle back down like it did with the stock ECU. I thought maybe it was detecting knock but when it was being tuned it still detected it (initially) and didn't cut fuel. I did have my redline dropped from 8k to 7800 rpm as they were having issues with ignition timing on the last 200rpm. I wonder if it was a fuel availability/pressure issue. I'm getting the front axle swapped on Monday at my tuning shop, was going to get them to take a peek at the PFC to see if any codes or w/e are in storage. I should mention that the problems I was having before with the car occaisionally not starting when warm have gone away - a ground cable to the battery was a bit loose, tightened it and haven't had a problem since.
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Dec 1, 2013 04:34
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Sounds more like it's detecting knock, especially if it started to happen as the weather got colder. Don't know what capabilities those older ECUs had, but that'll happen if the IAT adjustment stuff isn't done right and the car is tuned in the summer. Again not sure on the older ECUs - but there's different levels of knock detection. It will definitely feel like a fuel cut if it goes into the "serious" knock detection stuff.
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Dec 1, 2013 19:50
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si posted:Sounds more like it's detecting knock, especially if it started to happen as the weather got colder. Don't know what capabilities those older ECUs had, but that'll happen if the IAT adjustment stuff isn't done right and the car is tuned in the summer. It's running a standalone ECU but that could still be the case.
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Dec 1, 2013 22:28
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Alright, my Volvo is being an utter poo poo and I'm not spending money on yet another automatic transmission to throw at it. Here I am with some questions: I've found a 1999 Outback "with a blown HG" that I'm going to inspect later today. Am I looking at the 2.2 or the 2.5? I know it's Legacy based for the 2nd gen, and a head gasket replacement with a water pump/timing belt is looking to run me about $250 (HG, head bolt set, timing belt/pulley set with WP). A known Subaru owner and greasemonkey buddy of mine says that an in-car head job is possible in four hour or so start-to-finish, and only requires about a pint of blood/sweat/tears instead of requiring me to pull the whole motor. However, a motor pull isn't really out of the question for me anyway, and I could do a lot more with the whole thing out (this may be a BAD thing, I kinda need a bigger car than my Miata quick). I'm thinking offer $500?
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Dec 2, 2013 17:51
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It's the 2.5L. Offer $500 and see what the seller says.
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Dec 2, 2013 18:07
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I would check the radiator out while you're at it. That era tended to blow the plastic endtanks apart from overheating from the HGs. Also, if it's an auto, make sure the trans isn't doing anything weird. That 4EAT era had some weird issues (though I think always from poor maintenance).
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Dec 2, 2013 18:14
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2.5L as said. There is no way in hell I'd do a dual cam HG job in car. The local guy who does these as his bread and butter pulls dual cams but does SOHC in car. If you want a 500 dollar project go for it, a 2.2 will also drop in and not be a terrible motor.
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Dec 2, 2013 18:21
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1999 was the year they transitioned to SOHC 2.5 engine, so there is a good chance it's SOHC and can be done without pulling it. That being said, it's still a full day job, and I pull SOHCs because I fined it easier even though it takes longer.
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Dec 2, 2013 18:27
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The bottom ends were phase 2 blocks, but the heads were still DOHC and terrible.
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Dec 2, 2013 20:24
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Slow is Fast posted:The bottom ends were phase 2 blocks, but the heads were still DOHC and terrible. The B11 is DOHC (produced through May 1999) and the B12 is SOHC (FEB 99 onwards). In conclusion, don't buy a 1999!
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Dec 2, 2013 21:12
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I REALLY got to begin rebuilding the 06. But to be hoenst, I have no real idea what to do with it. Tarmac rally car? Gravel? Fast road car? Psychopathic H6 turbo? Stick a 20B rotary in it? hosed if I know.
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Dec 2, 2013 23:23
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Cat Terrist posted:I REALLY got to begin rebuilding the 06. But to be hoenst, I have no real idea what to do with it. Tarmac rally car? Gravel? Fast road car? Psychopathic H6 turbo? Stick a 20B rotary in it? hosed if I know. Nice fun/reliable daily driver?
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Dec 3, 2013 00:52
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So a follow up to this:TacoHavoc posted:My girlfriend has a 2010 forester that has apparently only had four wheel studs in the rear for over a year. She's up for inspection so I've got to fix it. Two questions: 1: It was even easier than that. Just had to align the wheel flange with a gap in the drum parking brake, bang the old one out, and pull the new one in. Two minute operation. 2: Had to go to a dealer. Dorman has a part number for the wheel stud that subaru uses on literally everything made in the last ten years, but nobody (autozone, napa, etc.) seemed to carry it. Trip to the dealer and five bucks later I had a stud and lug. 3: BONUS ROUND: Driving the car to the garage, I noticed the front brakes were grinding like the world was ending. The rear end was shuddering when braking from highway down to offramp speeds. I pulled all four wheels and basically found this:  Good god. After I put a new set of rotors on the front and new pads all around, I let my girlfriend try it out. She about sent me through the windshield stopping at the first stop sign. Fun times.
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Dec 3, 2013 02:15
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Cat Terrist posted:I REALLY got to begin rebuilding the 06. But to be hoenst, I have no real idea what to do with it. Tarmac rally car? Gravel? Fast road car? Psychopathic H6 turbo? Stick a 20B rotary in it? hosed if I know. Autocross superstar. Do you guys have a national racing association that has an autocross rulebook or something? You call it gymkhana right?
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Dec 3, 2013 02:41
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Cat Terrist posted:I REALLY got to begin rebuilding the 06. But to be hoenst, I have no real idea what to do with it. Tarmac rally car? Gravel? Fast road car? Psychopathic H6 turbo? Stick a 20B rotary in it? hosed if I know. Go against your racing nature and get a lift kit. I bet you haven't done that one yet.
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Dec 3, 2013 02:45
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TacoHavoc posted:Good god. After I put a new set of rotors on the front and new pads all around, I let my girlfriend try it out. She about sent me through the windshield stopping at the first stop sign. Fun times. Non-car people don't understand when something is horribly hosed.
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Dec 3, 2013 03:09
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