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VomitOnLino posted:I usually just stick to my guns, mostly. I've gotten good results that way. Most of the fuji slide has very good reciprocity failure characteristics actually. Pretty good chart here: http://tsmalley.com/blog/reciprocity-failure-on-slide-films/
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Nov 25, 2013 11:31
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Foma has god awful reciprocity failure so I am not surprised that it didn't do as well as Tri-X. We are talking talking 3 minute exposures becoming 60 or 70 minute exposures with that stock. I can't find a chart for the 400 but here's the 100's compensation table: http://consumptive.org/technical/Fomapan_100_Schwarzchild_Effect.pdf
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Nov 25, 2013 12:32
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Sludge Tank posted:Have a question regarding long exposures and reciprocity;
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Nov 25, 2013 12:35
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evil_bunnY posted:Your base time changes with exposure, so yeah if it was 5mn and you lose 2 stops now it's 20. You also need to take into account the amount of time exposed before the light changed. So if the base is now 20 mins and you were half way through a 5 min exposure you only need 10 more mins. Also alway error on the side of overexposure with neg film.
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Nov 25, 2013 12:41
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8th-snype posted:You also need to take into account the amount of time exposed before the light changed. So if the base is now 20 mins and you were half way through a 5 min exposure you only need 10 more mins. Also alway error on the side of overexposure with neg film.
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Nov 25, 2013 14:42
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Daily reminder to get the Reciprocity Timer iPhone app. It kicks rear end. 
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Nov 26, 2013 08:01
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Kinda sucks until they let you have custom film types
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Nov 26, 2013 21:02
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Is there an app like that I can get for my Macbook? I have a piece of crap Nokia phone from like 2004 so I've no way of accessing decent film apps. Also if anyone knows of one for Macbook that lets you enter manual info for rolls of film (like shot 1 = F/2, 1/100s or whatever) please let me know  (something easier than just Notepad that is)
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Nov 26, 2013 21:12
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How do you guys keep the right temperature for C-41 development? Just make a big water bath and put the bottles in it? It's only got to stay at 38 for the 3 minutes it's in the dev, the other steps are more flexible, right?
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Nov 27, 2013 03:27
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Quantum of Phallus posted:
I know it sounds simple, but maybe some kind of spreadsheet with the top row set to stay on the page all the time? At any rate, it's going to be easier than having to manually separate values in notepad. I'll end up doing this (and add some extra things like scanning notes, final filename) when I start scanning film. You could probably get fancy with databases and a pretty GUI interface bundled into an application, but a formatted spreadsheet is going to be simple solution where you can add extra fields if you want (and not rely on a developer).
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Nov 27, 2013 03:51
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eggsovereasy posted:How do you guys keep the right temperature for C-41 development? Just make a big water bath and put the bottles in it? It's only got to stay at 38 for the 3 minutes it's in the dev, the other steps are more flexible, right? I just use a big deep laundry sink with hot/warm water to get the temps right, and when they settle at 38C I go for it, making sure I push the tank into the warm water between inversions to keep the temp as stable as possible. With a nice big volume of water it's going to take a while before the temp varies larger than the proceeding process steps limits.
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Nov 27, 2013 04:45
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eggsovereasy posted:How do you guys keep the right temperature for C-41 development? Just make a big water bath and put the bottles in it? It's only got to stay at 38 for the 3 minutes it's in the dev, the other steps are more flexible, right? If you have the technical skills, the low tech aquarium heaters are usually very hackable but also accurate enough to maintain 38C in conjunction with an aquarium pump to circulate the water. It has served me well and my own efforts are (two or three drying spot on my first roll aside) neigh indistinguishable from those i got from my lab. Using Rolleis Digibase for that matter, as Apug folks seemed to be of the opinion that bleach and fix steps are best kept separate for max longlivety.
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Nov 27, 2013 05:12
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VomitOnLino posted:If you have the technical skills, the low tech aquarium heaters are usually very hackable but also accurate enough to maintain 38C in conjunction with an aquarium pump to circulate the water. I looked at aquarium heaters, but none of them get hot enough. How do you go about modding one? Spedman posted:I just use a big deep laundry sink with hot/warm water to get the temps right, and when they settle at 38C I go for it, making sure I push the tank into the warm water between inversions to keep the temp as stable as possible. With a nice big volume of water it's going to take a while before the temp varies larger than the proceeding process steps limits. I'll probably just end up using this really big pot I have for now. edit: I just found this: http://www.aquacave.com/300W-Titanium-Heater-withD-58-Controller-by-Won-Brothers-P988.aspx which can get more than hot enough, kind of expensive though. eggsovereasy fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Nov 27, 2013 06:41
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eggsovereasy posted:I looked at aquarium heaters, but none of them get hot enough. How do you go about modding one? If it's a cheaper, regulated one, but not a super cheap one it likely has a "remote" section with a spinning dial, where you can dial in the temperature. The first thing you can attempt is to take the plastic dial off, usually there are indents molded into the dial or the case that prevent you from spinning it all the way. Remove those. Spin to the hottest temperature you can. Measure. It may already be enough. If it isn't you need a little bit of electronic skills, basically the dial is connected to a variable resistor that changes resistance as it turns. You can change the range by adding or removing (adding resistors in parallel, remember?) resistance. Do that until the dial spinning range includes your desired temperature range. Done. I did this for myself and for a friend who had a different heater, his only even required the first "hack", mine required soldering a single resistor and then marking the sweet spot on the dial with a sharpie pen.
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Nov 27, 2013 09:09
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I used a bathtub filled with water before (cumbersome if you're doing more than one roll though), but I'm working on making an arduino powered heater, using a relay to control a submersible heater and a waterproof temp probe to measure the water temp (probably with a simple PID loop to keep things stable). I've got a lot to do before I get that far though.
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Nov 27, 2013 20:05
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That sounds pretty neat though.
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Nov 27, 2013 20:59
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Mr. Despair posted:I used a bathtub filled with water before (cumbersome if you're doing more than one roll though), but I'm working on making an arduino powered heater, using a relay to control a submersible heater and a waterproof temp probe to measure the water temp (probably with a simple PID loop to keep things stable). I was actually considering using electric valves to control the temperature mix coming out of the faucet. Once I get a plumber in, the sink will be dedicated for darkroom purposes, so why not make it fancy.
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Nov 27, 2013 21:21
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When I first started colour processing I used one of these setups a friend lent me: http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/946/nova-fp-film-processor It worked quite well, but a new one is a little over priced. With all the chat about getting aquarium heaters and modifying them, Nova also do a ready to go temp probe/heater/controller that looks pretty nice and isn't too expensive: http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/785/nova-water-heater-protronic
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Nov 27, 2013 21:31
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I'm guessing since the prices are in GBP that it's all 220V, so you'd need an adapter too. But that's a lot cheaper than a JOBO processor.
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Nov 27, 2013 22:06
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Are the Patterson tanks light tight when the rubbery liquid tight cap is not installed? I've always kept the lights off when exchanging fluids for fear of light leaks into the tank.
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Nov 28, 2013 00:00
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Mr. Powers posted:Are the Patterson tanks light tight when the rubbery liquid tight cap is not installed? I've always kept the lights off when exchanging fluids for fear of light leaks into the tank. Yes they are.
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Nov 28, 2013 00:07
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8th-snype posted:Yes they are. I feel dumb.
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Nov 28, 2013 00:09
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Better safe (or dumb) than sorry.
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Nov 28, 2013 00:16
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Mr. Powers posted:I feel dumb. You shoot and develop your own film. You are superior. 
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Nov 28, 2013 00:17
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ExecuDork posted:First, that's an awesome find. Yipes, this was a while back. Better late than never. Unfortunately, it was a fresh roll. It seems like someone had loaded it and forgot about it before they put it up for sale. Kind of weird, but I'll take it. Free practice, right? Since then, I've run two rolls through it, and it performs admirably for a 15 dollar camera. You can't get a lot in photography for 15 bucks. These are a couple shots from it. I'm not great at shooting film, and the iffy Walgreens development doesn't help, but it's a proof of concept.  Pizza King by AmericanScumbag, on Flickr  Narrows by AmericanScumbag, on Flickr  The Catte by AmericanScumbag, on Flickr
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Nov 28, 2013 00:54
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eggsovereasy posted:How do you guys keep the right temperature for C-41 development? Just make a big water bath and put the bottles in it? It's only got to stay at 38 for the 3 minutes it's in the dev, the other steps are more flexible, right? Sous vide heater and pump in the laundry tub. Second thermometer in there too, just to be safe. Develop film while cooking delicious, delicious trout.
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Nov 28, 2013 05:18
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Any tips for shooting Provia 400x in the 120 format? I'm guessing there's not a lot of give so I just have to nail exposure but I've never shot slide film in 120 before or Provia at all.
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Nov 28, 2013 14:36
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eggsovereasy posted:How do you guys keep the right temperature for C-41 development? Just make a big water bath and put the bottles in it? It's only got to stay at 38 for the 3 minutes it's in the dev, the other steps are more flexible, right? I have dedicated heaters but with time I've found they bring little to nothing to the table. Just keep the developer inside a basin with hot water (I settled on 50 C) until it reaches the temp you need, then start processing. Keep the tank out of the basin between first and second inversion, then inside the basin between the second and third and so on and so forth. Everything else can be thrown inside the basin when you put the developer bottle in it and kept there the whole time.
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Nov 28, 2013 15:42
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Any tips for shooting Provia 400x in the 120 format? I'm guessing there's not a lot of give so I just have to nail exposure but I've never shot slide film in 120 before or Provia at all. If it's anything like Provia 100F, avoid contrasty scenes/lighting and err on the side of underexposure. Overcast days are magic.
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Nov 28, 2013 18:34
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voodoorootbeer posted:Overcast days are magic. Oh cool, I live in Ireland so it's pretty much overcast 10 months of the year.
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Nov 28, 2013 18:50
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Ehh, finally got done with my first roll of Portra and there's kind of this line running across the top of every picture. Did I do something wrong when loading it? Did Costco gently caress up the development? Cloning it out of every picture I took is gonna be a bitch...   Edit: Didn't see this problem on the roll of Tri-X I shot, so I don't think it's the camera... 404notfound fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Nov 30, 2013 |
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Nov 30, 2013 02:38
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404notfound posted:Ehh, finally got done with my first roll of Portra and there's kind of this line running across the top of every picture. Did I do something wrong when loading it? Did Costco gently caress up the development? Cloning it out of every picture I took is gonna be a bitch... Is it visible on the negatives? If so, they probably hosed development, if not it's bad scans.
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Nov 30, 2013 02:52
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I think the when Costco processes the film, the machine they use imparts that line when it goes through. It's there on a bunch of my shots, but $1.41 processing is too hard to turn down.
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Nov 30, 2013 02:53
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nielsm posted:Is it visible on the negatives? If so, they probably hosed development, if not it's bad scans. I don't think I can see it on the negatives. I got both prints and scans, though, and it's in both of those. So maybe whatever machine they use to scan/print is doing it? Chill Callahan posted:I think the when Costco processes the film, the machine they use imparts that line when it goes through. It's there on a bunch of my shots, but $1.41 processing is too hard to turn down. That's kinda balls, but yeah, it's super cheap. $9 total for development + prints + scans. Assuming you already have a membership, of course. And the scans are 3087x2048 jpegs, if anybody was curious.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:00
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404notfound posted:I don't think I can see it on the negatives. I got both prints and scans, though, and it's in both of those. So maybe whatever machine they use to scan/print is doing it? Minilab prints today are usually made from scans, so yes it sounds like their scanner might be dirty.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:19
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I don't know how those minilab scanners work, but on a flatbed there is a small 'calibration area' and I'll get a line like that if there is some dust in that area. I have to wipe it down then rescan. I guess theirs was dirty.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:42
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 70740033 by khyrre, on Flickr All right, I think I'm on board with this film thing. Time to buy a V600 
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Nov 30, 2013 07:30
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Anyone tried developing HP5+ at 1600? I've got a roll I decided to shoot at 1600 but having loaded it into the tank and pulled out my bottle of Ilfosol 3 I've found that the Massive Dev Chart only has times for 200, 400, 800 and 3200. I'm assuming that somewhere midway between the 13.5 for 800 and the 24.5 for 3200 should be about right but it would be good to be certain.
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Dec 1, 2013 20:01
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Holistic Detective posted:Anyone tried developing HP5+ at 1600? I've got a roll I decided to shoot at 1600 but having loaded it into the tank and pulled out my bottle of Ilfosol 3 I've found that the Massive Dev Chart only has times for 200, 400, 800 and 3200. I'm assuming that somewhere midway between the 13.5 for 800 and the 24.5 for 3200 should be about right but it would be good to be certain. 18-20 minutes will probably work okay, but looking at Ilford's own product pages it doesn't look like Ilfosol 3 is intended to be good for push processing. Consider getting some Microphen for that, one litre of mixed stock should be good for about 10 rolls of film and can keep a month or more if you store it carefully.
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Dec 1, 2013 20:16
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Another Ilford developer to try with pushing is DD-X, I rather like it.
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Dec 2, 2013 00:45
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