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Tanik's lights are quite expensive. I'm told DEPOs are worse quality than ZKWs. Which is made more confusing by people putting both DEPO and ZKW in the name. (Which one is it?) For almost 400$ you would hope the PnP harness would be included.  What's the catch here? http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-99-BMW-E...5949bfb&vxp=mtr
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Nov 29, 2013 06:51
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Chintsy plastics. DEPOs are Taiwanese made stuff specifically for eBay. ZKW is one of BMW's OEMs for that part.
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Nov 29, 2013 11:17
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Is there a legit path to hid on the e36? Obv it will never be DOT legal, but can it be done technically correct? My other e36 had hids in the stock housings and they were never an issue, but I wouldn't do it without knowing it was done fully right according to the technical requirements of the lamps.
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Nov 29, 2013 14:30
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revmoo posted:Is there a legit path to hid on the e36? Obv it will never be DOT legal, but can it be done technically correct? There are people retrofitting other HID projectors from other cars. In my ellipsoid research I came across a number of people fitting TSX projectors in there.
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Nov 29, 2013 16:02
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FX35 projectors are another go-to for doing it "right."
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Nov 29, 2013 16:18
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Motronic posted:That's a pretty terrible idea. Just have it done right. SOLD! I am not sure of the ins and outs of wheel balancing and how universal parts may or may not be.
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Nov 29, 2013 17:22
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E36 1992 318i Check engine light came on, flickered on and off for a day (it would just pop in and out randomly) and now it's on steady and now I'm idling at like 1100-1200 rpm instead of 900, any ideas? Idle control valve? Besides the higher idle I'm not noticing any changes in how the car's running, still starts and drives the same 
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Nov 29, 2013 19:53
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yyyyyy posted:E36 1992 318i Step 1: read the codes.
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Nov 29, 2013 19:56
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yyyyyy posted:E36 1992 318i Could be a vacuum leak, but yes, check the stomp codes. 5 stomps on the gas pedal with just acc on will get it to spit out the codes.
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Nov 29, 2013 20:16
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Update on my 1996 328is with the overheating and the stall-on-cold-start. I went to my mechanic and dropped of my new tires, courtesy of a good friend who was willing to drive all over town this afternoon and pretend to be me at the terrible, terrible UPS depot. While I was there we had a good chat about my car. The overheating was caused by the coolant system (GOD drat) being "severely air locked", issue marked as resolved after bleeding the system. New shoes for my parking brake to be priced out and maybe sorted out Monday. Tires to be sorted out Monday. Oil changed, blah blah blah, All good. The car didn't stall when he moved it into a bay (of course), but in looking for problems they suspected a vacuum leak and went in with the smoke test. That, and 2 of 10 codes that popped up  were vacuum related. One of my hoses is wrapped in tape (previous owner, I think) and is leaking. They also suspect my PCV valve. A replacement PCV valve is apparently $400, plus about $180 for another valve that looks like one of those "while you're in there" kind of things. The "in there" is the intake manifold, which they tell me must be completely disassembled to replace the PCV valve - a 3.8 hour job at shop rates (and their shop rates are not cheap). Fortunately, my mechanic seems to understand that I'm not made of money - he seems to know the difference between a glamourmobile and an aging Do you really need to take apart the intake manifold to replace the PCV valve? Rockauto is showing me "Crankcase Vent Valve (PCV Valve)" for about $45, or around 1/10 the quoted part cost at my mechanic. Did he make a mistake pricing out parts, is the dealership ripping us off, or did I look at the wrong thing on Rockauto? I have a friend who would likely be willing to help me on this, but I want to make sure I get the right parts, of course.
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Nov 30, 2013 02:25
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ExecuDork posted:Do you really need to take apart the intake manifold to replace the PCV valve? Rockauto is showing me "Crankcase Vent Valve (PCV Valve)" for about $45, or around 1/10 the quoted part cost at my mechanic. Did he make a mistake pricing out parts, is the dealership ripping us off, or did I look at the wrong thing on Rockauto? I have a friend who would likely be willing to help me on this, but I want to make sure I get the right parts, of course. Not really; but you do get to take apart just about everything connected to it!  There are what appear to be a good number of DIYs out there for the E36/M52 cars, just Google it and have a look for yourself. Replacing the crankcase ventilation system isn't a difficult job in either an E36 or E46; what can make it a monumental bitch is just how much stuff you have to take apart to get at everything.E: You can get a Genuine BMW oil separator service kit from ECS Tuning, including hoses and hardware, for $119. MrChips fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 30, 2013 |
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Nov 30, 2013 02:54
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GOD drat....belt system? Water pump pulley split in two on the 540 last night. Looks like it also cracked the idler/tensioner pulley between the waterpump and alt. Going to yank the belt in a sec, make sure that lower idler isn't hosed too. HOLIDAY WEEKEND! Thinking of putting a new water pump in while I'm in there. It's $100, but it's most likely worth it I think, especially if I find the pulley bent the shaft or the mounting poo poo when it fragged.
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Nov 30, 2013 18:04
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Goons, I've got the dreaded battery drain on my 98 M3. I put a multimeter inline between the negative battery cable and the negative terminal and I got a reading of .82 ma (IIRC). Despite pulling every fuse and every relay under the hood, the rate did not drop once during the procedure. It take the battery around 3-7 days to die down. Alternator checks out OK as does the battery (at least according to auto slum's tester). What am I doing wrong and how do I track down this infuriating problem? I already the removed both the bulb from the glove box and the trunk just to eliminate those two common variables. I think all of my battery shenanigans started when I found the glove box light staying on. I thought I had it fixed when I found that. But no. My neighbors are beginning to think I have an E3 it is plugged into a charger so often. TIA.
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Nov 30, 2013 19:12
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Double check your readings. .82 mA (820 uA) is a whole lot lower than .82 amps, which is what i suspect you're seeing. The former is probably totally nominal for maintaining computer memory, powering the ECUs in standby, etc; .82 amps indicates a pretty big drain. Check your grounds, check them again.
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Nov 30, 2013 21:21
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Ok here is my new fun issue. Service engine light popped on yesterday, so I ran the Torque app from my phone, and it came up with the following codes: P2419 - Evaporative Emission System Switching Valve Control Circuit Low P240A - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Heater Control Circuit/Open This is for my 2008 e90 335xi So I found This Guide from Pelican Parts and the DTML Pump From Here for 75 bucks. So before I jump into this, I just wanted to make sure what I'm doing sounds right. Should I be buying more than just the pump? Also, what's ironic I think, is last week or so I posted in the thread asking what the crazy noises my car makes when I unlock it or turn it off, and it turns out this pump is one of those things that goes off I guess. Before the light came on yesterday, I did here it make a squeeky kinda noise and thought it was odd.
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Nov 30, 2013 23:10
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Jonny 290 posted:Double check your readings. .82 mA (820 uA) is a whole lot lower than .82 amps, which is what i suspect you're seeing. The former is probably totally nominal for maintaining computer memory, powering the ECUs in standby, etc; .82 amps indicates a pretty big drain. Check your grounds, check them again. I just checked the drain again today and it read .22 ma. As I understand this is a smudge high but should not be giving me the problems I am having. I guess I need to seriously consider dropping the $150 bucks for a new battery.
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Dec 1, 2013 02:19
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ThirstyBuck posted:I just checked the drain again today and it read .22 ma. As I understand this is a smudge high but should not be giving me the problems I am having. I guess I need to seriously consider dropping the $150 bucks for a new battery. First you have the battery load tested before throwing money at what might not be the problem.
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Dec 1, 2013 02:26
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ExecuDork posted:Update on my 1996 328is with the overheating and the stall-on-cold-start. So I finally popped the hood and got to look at my cold start issue. Was going to clean the MAF again and as I was taking it out I noticed a lot of gaps and cracks in the accordian boot connecting the MAF and intake throttle. Luckily my dad had some silicone adhesive and I did my best to patch the cracks and leak spots. Went out later to start the car and no more (or at least minimal) cold start issues! I'll be ordering a new boot from Turner soon but I'm really glad I figured this one out on my own. For now I'll be taking the e30 back with me for the winter.
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Dec 1, 2013 06:53
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How much would a budget manual swap cost on an E46? Some dude at work has a facelift 325 with a blown auto and he offered me it for 1k.
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Dec 1, 2013 07:48
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200 miles into ownership of the M3 and it popped the o2 sensor code. SO IT BEGINS. Fortunately I had the safety and emissions testing completed before the CEL came on. 
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Dec 1, 2013 20:25
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BlackMK4 posted:How much would a budget manual swap cost on an E46? Some dude at work has a facelift 325 with a blown auto and he offered me it for 1k. If you have to piece all the parts together, at least 1000 if not 1500. And you NEED someone capable of programming e46 ECUs. For a 325 I wouldn't even bother. You could make more than 1k if you parted it out though.
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Dec 1, 2013 22:00
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BlackMK4 posted:How much would a budget manual swap cost on an E46? Some dude at work has a facelift 325 with a blown auto and he offered me it for 1k. My answer is in the general question thread. Part that poo poo out or find another used transmission and flip it.
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Dec 1, 2013 22:32
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Anyone wire in bluetooth/handsfree into a CD43 or C33? I like stock looking things. My OCD likes everything to look the same and uniform. There's like a million options, all with marginal success. DICE, GROM, Dension, Parot, etc. I just want simple A2DP and handsfree calling. Text and radio controls working (I have no steering controls) are bonuses.
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Dec 1, 2013 23:01
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Has anyone got their car Dinan certified? I looked around on their website and figured I could get some nice upgrades and certified for under $2000 in parts. Do you need an authorized dealer to install the parts? Or just check mark that you bought the parts legit and they send you a badge?
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Dec 2, 2013 01:21
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Popete posted:Has anyone got their car Dinan certified? I looked around on their website and figured I could get some nice upgrades and certified for under $2000 in parts. Do you need an authorized dealer to install the parts? Or just check mark that you bought the parts legit and they send you a badge? I did on my white E92, their performance parts added no power but the suspension was good. It seemed kind of pointless, although there's probably more to be gained with your car than with mine if you exclude de-catting.
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Dec 2, 2013 02:35
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Popete posted:Has anyone got their car Dinan certified? I looked around on their website and figured I could get some nice upgrades and certified for under $2000 in parts. Do you need an authorized dealer to install the parts? Or just check mark that you bought the parts legit and they send you a badge? Just buy a badge on ebay if you really want one.
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Dec 2, 2013 07:47
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*sighs* Can anybody help me find the right tensioner pulley for my 1997 540i? It is the upper idler pulley, the one right between the alternator and water pump. I've found everything else, i think. Some places sell a naked pulley, some say "oh its only sold as an assembly with the tensioner" but that sounds sketchy. car is really starting to frustrate me. E: I think is my poison, but I haven't pulled the tensioner off yet to check. http://www.amazon.com/Gates-38073-Idler-Pulley/dp/B000CHKJJI Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 16:31
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Crikey. Car: 2000 540i 6-speed, 171,000 miles Over the weekend, the car threw a P0011 code. The engine has also begun making a bad noise at idle and shaking as though it were misfiring. Doing some research, it seems as though my timing chain guide has broken. I replaced the tensioner last year as a precaution so I think I can rule that out. I have not yet checked my oil pan for plastic parts but based on the code it is throwing and the sound it is making, I think that is the most likely culprit. I’m fairly certain that this job is beyond my skill level, so I’m shopping around. The dealership was laughably high, quoting me $7k for a full timing chain job (though $5k for a used engine sourced and installed). A local BMW shop quoted me about $2,500 for the guide job and all necessary fluids and gaskets. This is again assuming that it is the guides. I might get lucky but I can’t imagine what else it could be. The car is otherwise in OK shape. The transmission shifts kind of poorly (despite new fluid) and there is some rust, but mechanically otherwise the car is fine. The problem is, money is tight at the moment. I just bought a house and with the holidays coming up, I’m stretched more thin than I’m comfortable with already. Thoughts?
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Dec 2, 2013 17:25
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Motronic posted:Sure, it's possible it might work for now when it's full.....but the damage has undoubtedly already been done. It's just a matter of how long it will last. Turns out it didn't change anything. Time to get my rear end in gear and swap the trans.
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Dec 2, 2013 17:26
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CornHolio posted:Crikey Sorry, but your pulling the pan. the timing chain guides are toast (most likely) and its an expensive job. Actually, if your up to the challenge, its nothing you can't do on your own. You will need a set of timing chain tools, you can find them easy enough on ebay here is a pretty extensive diy. https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=614654 Jonny 290 posted:*sighs* That one looks correct. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 17:34
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Thanks for the help. now I cant get the tensioner off. it appears as though it uses the axis bolt of the upper pulley as a mounting point. but there's just a flat plastic cap on the front of the idler and I have pried and pried the best my screwdrivers can, but I don't think it's a removable cap. any ideas? e: Cap is of German design, meaning, pry far past what you believe the yield strength of the plastic component to be. Cap is off, one 13mm out, good. Now time to buy idler pulleys. Thankfully the lower seems to be ok. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 00:52
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Hey goons...........How many labor hours do most indy shops charge to install a new E46 Final Stage Unit #64-11-6-920-365 ($62.25 from Pelican)? EDIT: found a E46fanatics thread that said the "Alldata" rate was 1.4 hrs............which means my Sacramento indy's will claim 3.5 hrs, of course since they are high as gently caress on everything else. Based on the DIY posts and pics I will have no patience for that poo poo after I remove the glovebox. Blah. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 01:10
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Keyser S0ze posted:Hey goons...........How many labor hours do most indy shops charge to install a new E46 Final Stage Unit #64-11-6-920-365 ($62.25 from Pelican)? That job isn't as bad as it looks. 2-4 beers, maybe an hour to an hour and a half if you take it slow. Just set aside a full Saturday morning for it. I'm probably a bit jaded though because that looks downright SPACIOUS compared to working on the CCV which I did a few weeks back.
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Dec 3, 2013 03:32
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Yeah it's really not bad. I'm 6'1", just shy of 200 lbs, and it took me about an hour total. I could probably do it in 20 minutes if I had to do it again. Just make sure you have sufficiently long Torx drivers to reach the screws holding the thing in.
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Dec 3, 2013 04:04
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Ordered the E46 Final Stage Unit as well as the drivers door actuator. These items actually came up regarding a PPI I had done for a possible buyer of my E46. I never noticed the fan speed variation as I most always kept it in AUTO but have noticed the drivers door lock sometimes not opening from the key fob on the first press. Even if I don't get to these or have them installed I'll just let the buyer have the parts and deal with it when they finally get annoying. It will be cheaper for them in the Bay Area anyway than out here (pickup truck land).
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Dec 3, 2013 17:23
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Did the final stage on mine not so long ago. I liked that when I was done, I wasn't all greasy like all the other jobs. I just had a kink in my back from laying on the floor of the passenger side, with my legs up on the seat. That's a hint for you guys that have to do it.
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Dec 3, 2013 20:57
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E34 535i, RHD. Driver's door won't unlock, so it's stuck closed and I can't get the door panel off (without wrecking it, anyway) and all the other doors unlock via central locking just fine. Checked the fuses under the rear seat, nothing blown, any thoughts?
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Dec 4, 2013 00:56
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hawaiian_robot posted:E34 535i, RHD. Driver's door won't unlock, so it's stuck closed and I can't get the door panel off (without wrecking it, anyway) and all the other doors unlock via central locking just fine. Checked the fuses under the rear seat, nothing blown, any thoughts? Is it just the central locking that's broken or will the key unlock it?
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Dec 4, 2013 00:59
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Viper_3000 posted:Is it just the central locking that's broken or will the key unlock it? The key will unlock all the other doors from the driver's side via the central locking, but won't unlock the driver's door itself. The manual override (pull handle, turn key) can only be done on the passenger's side. I've tried resynchronising it so many times and it does nothing. The button for the lock can't be opened from the inside either, it seems to be stuck in the double lock mode.
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Dec 4, 2013 01:59
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YAAAAY I finally got the god damned fan clutch off the water pump. I hope I didn't damage the pump in the process. Seriously had to use a huge crescent wrench and had to buy one of the big pulley wrenches that hooks onto the bolts. This was after literally smashing the water pump pulley I cracked in the first place off, piece by piece. Tomorrow I get the new idler pulley and WP pulley on, and i get my drat car back (hopefully!) Buy the big pulley wrench if you plan on cracking your fan clutch off and you aren't 100% sure it'll come off easily (you've cracked it before). I think mine has never been replaced and thus may be 175k old. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 05:07
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