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Kazy posted:Has there ever been a successful (not in funding, but in actual delivery) kickstarted 3D printer since Printrbot? Pretty sure form1 shipped too, at least the one guy I know locally that ordered one got his.
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Nov 18, 2013 20:50
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QU-BD delivered on their (old) Kickstarter, it just wasn't what everyone was expecting. The extruder that they made ended up being more of a pain to work with than it was worth. The lack of available carriages for it made it a dud for most people, and those who got around that flaw found extrusion issues. After a serious destruction of the assembly and replacement of most of the parts with known parts I got it to work, and concluded they sold me a pretty alright stepper motor for about triple what it costs in low volume orders. I probably wouldn't buy another extruder from them again, but they make really great nozzles. I've ordered from them time and time again because of how fast they deliver whenever I destroyed my old Replicator's nozzle.
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Nov 19, 2013 08:04
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UberVexer posted:I probably wouldn't buy another extruder from them again, but they make really great nozzles. I've ordered from them time and time again because of how fast they deliver whenever I destroyed my old Replicator's nozzle. Even the nozzle was screwed up until they changed it. They didn't make the nose flat so if you ever crashed the head, there was a good chance you would ruin it completely.
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Nov 19, 2013 13:37
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Kazy posted:Has there ever been a successful (not in funding, but in actual delivery) kickstarted 3D printer since Printrbot? Robo3D has shipped half their printers so far with the other half almost done being assembled for delivery. It's a great affordable printer with a huge build volume.
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Nov 19, 2013 17:47
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Has anyone heard anything about the mUVe 1? http://www.muve3d.net/press/product/muve-1-3d-printer/ I'm looking for something that will let me get some prototypes in my hands quickly before sending my 3D files off to a production house like Shapeways. I don't care about high resolution as much as I care about being able to just go "push button, make thing". It's my understanding that extruder type machines still require a bit of love and attention and that resin-based machines are a little more hands-off, if not more expensive? Am I wrong to assume this? Suggestions?
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Nov 21, 2013 01:38
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If you already have a printer and were told you can spend 3-4k on a second printer, which one would you get? I already have large build volume print. I just need something around 8" long or more from the second one. I'd like to have dual extruders but don't love the replicator 2x design.
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Nov 21, 2013 05:18
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Well, if it were me, I'd get a Form1, but that doesn't have an 8" bed. None of the $3-4k SLAs do. I currently have a MendelMax 2 and it's great but I'd like better resolution. If I had both the MendelMax and a Form1, I dunno what I'd get next. Probably a delta design of some kind but you could get five of those for $4k. If I had to spend $3-4k on a printer and it couldn't be a Form1 I'd probably go for an Aluminatus, I guess.
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Nov 21, 2013 05:26
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MickRaider posted:If you already have a printer and were told you can spend 3-4k on a second printer, which one would you get? I already have large build volume print. I just need something around 8" long or more from the second one. I'd like to have dual extruders but don't love the replicator 2x design. If you're comfortable with the delta style, I'd recommend a Rostock MAX. The one we built has a build envelope of a cylinder 11" in diameter and 14 3/4" tall. We bought our kit here: http://seemecnc.com/collections/3d-printers/products/rostock-max-complete-kit It's required quite a bit of fine-tuning and upgrading to turn out a quality print, but I think the latest editions (like the one linked) have been upgraded from when we purchased it.
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Nov 21, 2013 07:23
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Malacept posted:If you're comfortable with the delta style, I'd recommend a Rostock MAX. The one we built has a build envelope of a cylinder 11" in diameter and 14 3/4" tall. We bought our kit here: Does this include the auto-leveling feature?
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Nov 21, 2013 08:48
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Something else kind of neat that you might consider, too http://www.hyrel3d.com/ No idea how it performs, but the hot-swappable extruders sound cool.
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Nov 21, 2013 09:55
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Does this include the auto-leveling feature? As far as I know, it does not include any auto-leveling features. We had to do all calibration ourselves, but it wasn't too bad. I do want to caution that it's still more of a hobbyist printer than a true, production printer. It will take some tinkering before it will crank out decent parts.
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Nov 21, 2013 13:15
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After talking with them some more apparently they have a higher level of respect for the replicator 2 than I thought. We might go with the 2x, though I do really like that Form1. Need to look into how much more expensive per print it is... I guess I'm still confused by delta printers. Besides a static object I'm not sure what sort of benefits it has in terms of reliability and precision. Can it go faster than gantry/reprap? Having a smaller build volume kinda hurts printing multiple parts but if it's significantly faster that would make up for it Still got to show them a few potentials so we can choose the best one.
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Nov 21, 2013 17:52
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Print quality on stationary-part printers is almost universally higher for a given speed than moving-bed printers like the repraps. Deltas can move extremely fast vs. some gantry designs (the Ultimaker closes the gap though). Downsides are currently the firmware on them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z99Vtyr5rg4
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Nov 21, 2013 20:29
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I think that larger build volumes are also easier with a delta design because it scales easier/better mechanically compared to X/Y stuff.
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Nov 21, 2013 22:41
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Mister Sinewave posted:I think that larger build volumes are also easier with a delta design because it scales easier/better mechanically compared to X/Y stuff. You need more physical volume for the machine though. Your machine has to be at least twice as tall as the build volume height.
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Nov 21, 2013 22:47
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The footprint is roughly the size of your print area, though.
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Nov 21, 2013 22:48
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Obsurveyor posted:You need more physical volume for the machine though. Your machine has to be at least twice as tall as the build volume height. Not quite. It needs to a little taller than your build width, build height is determined by how much taller it is after that. If you specifically wanted a machine to build tall structures it would scale up very nicely. Even so, most people don't have a problem with the height of a machine (maybe if it has to fit under shelves or you have a particularly low ceiling?). The far more common concern is the footprint on the workbench which the Delta is very good for.
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Nov 22, 2013 16:07
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ReelBigLizard posted:Not quite. It needs to a little taller than your build width, build height is determined by how much taller it is after that. If you specifically wanted a machine to build tall structures it would scale up very nicely. Oh yeah, it is the width because the arms move up to move in the x-y, been awhile since I messed with delta stuff. However, it's just a little over 2:1 on tower height vs. circular build diameter for the Kossel, which was the one I was thinking of. edit: Not sure why I typed cartesian, fixed typo Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Nov 22, 2013 |
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Nov 22, 2013 16:16
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A gantry design can be extended in X to any length without compromising performance.
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Nov 22, 2013 21:09
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oxbrain posted:A gantry design can be extended in X to any length without compromising performance. Provided you use a thicker smooth rod, yes. 8mm rods tend to not like being 6' long with a stepper motor in the middle of them.
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Nov 22, 2013 22:12
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UberVexer posted:Provided you use a thicker smooth rod, yes. 8mm rods tend to not like being 6' long with a stepper motor in the middle of them. That's why that model uses an extruded aluminum cross-shaped riser with an insert in one track so the bearing surface doesn't wear down. If I had $1000 lying around I'd get it for sure.
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Nov 22, 2013 23:23
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Managed to break my new thermistor and my old thermistor trying to install my E3D. Anyone ever had success sourcing locally? I got some on order from amazon but would be nice to get today.
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Nov 22, 2013 23:43
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MickRaider posted:Robo3D has shipped half their printers so far with the other half almost done being assembled for delivery. I got my Robo3D from Kickstarter 1.5 weeks ago. Bargain at < $700.
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Nov 23, 2013 00:23
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alkaloid posted:I got my Robo3D from Kickstarter 1.5 weeks ago. Bargain at < $700. Nice man, how much have you been using yours?
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Nov 23, 2013 04:16
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UberVexer posted:Provided you use a thicker smooth rod, yes. 8mm rods tend to not like being 6' long with a stepper motor in the middle of them. I should have specified with a rack and pinion.
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Nov 23, 2013 04:48
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Sheeeeit, Stratasys (Makerbot's new daddy) just sued Afinia (which are re-badged UP! printers for retail sale, I think?) Sued them over a few patents Stratasys holds but which sound pretty generic: the process of using infill, something about the extruder, using a heated build platform, and so forth.
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Nov 27, 2013 23:27
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So, I'm seriously considering getting a Printrbot Jr. (http://printrbot.com/shop/assembled-printrbor-jr-v2/) and i'm looking for opinions. I do a lot of hobby models (planes,tanks,cars) and i'd like to be able to print out some miniatures (a certain line of grimdark figures that take place 40,000 years in the future...) as well as some other off-brand miniatures. As well as miniature WW2 planes so i can let loose my inner child. Is the Jr. the printer i want? It's right about in my price range.
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Nov 30, 2013 02:54
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How big of things are you looking to print? The printrbot jr seems pretty good to me, but honestly if you're printing little figurines it might be a good idea to change out your nozzle with something smaller, generally they're .45mm and if I wanted to make an intricate part below 1in^3 I'd get a .15mm nozzle. Besides that you're looking for structural integrity integrity in the printer. http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/3dprinters/ has a great list of comparisons. Were it me and had I not bought a robo I'd probably go with a 3rd or 2nd gen Solidoodle. Or a delta printer. MickRaider fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Nov 30, 2013 |
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Nov 30, 2013 03:03
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This is really neat: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:147055 Build looks very simple too. I wonder if a couple of heating elements would go a long way in making the print a lot more stable. My wife is a ceramicist and often uses a heatgun to speed up drying before trimming her work. Deltaprint will supposedly launch their kickstarter tomorrow and I'll probably buy into it...after which I'll build the above clay printer!
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Nov 30, 2013 03:03
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Well, the miniatures i was looking at are usually in the 28mm range, but that's that an "if it works" kind of thing. What i'm really looking for are the planes to paint, and they'd be a bit bigger than that. 2-3 inches wingspan maybe.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:26
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See my post from a couple of weeks ago, from someone asking the exact same question:Sagebrush posted:If that guy's an inch tall, the detail on that is getting into SLA territory. The only printer on the market in reach of a hobbyist that can reliably hit that resolution is the Form 1, and that's still $3200.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:29
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Thanks for the quick replies and info, I have to be honest, both the first and second pictures look fine for me. Considering that most things I create will be painted/won't matter about the detail (Imagination!) I'd be happy with either one. So long as the Jr will get me in the ballpark of the first or second picture, I'll be happy. I don't play much Grimdark, so I highly doubt that if my miniatures aren't "regulation" it will affect me much. Nerds can be Nerds, but if I don't play with them, their opinion doesn't much matter to me. That Form1 though, my god...
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Nov 30, 2013 03:41
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The Jr. will almost certainly get you in the region of the first picture, and if you get it dialed in well the second one isn't unreasonable. That looks like about 0.2mm layering to me and good temperature control. Basically, the overall shapes will be fine, but tiny details like scale-mail or the guys' faces will come out like crap if at all.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:58
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Yea, it's the fine details that i'm not overly concerned about. I don't need to see each and every wrinkle of the clothes that the figure is wearing. So long as it looks vaguely human, something I can put on the battlefield (against the less descriminating Nerds) I'll be more than pleased. Considering how expensive the figures are, if I can print out some half-detail figures, I'll be very happy.
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Nov 30, 2013 04:08
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I've been using a Printrbot + for a long time now. With a new nozzle and a lot of time tweaking you can get some pretty good small prints out of it. The JR looks like it can more than hold its own in that regard, it's more than stable enough if you're not looking to expand its size. The problem with very small prints is that it almost always requires adjusting various settings for every different model, but the repeat ability after that is pretty great. I also see a lot of people complaining about filament jams and extrusion problems with a lot of printers. I can say with the Printrbot the only time I ever have problems is when using very small nozzles like .1 or .15 mm. It can print things with a .3 nozzle and .2 layers all day without any special setup. If you're interested in trying it out there's a good thread on it here. http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=2755 And about the only place to get a wide range of Printrbot nozzles is here. http://www.jerrill.com/shop/printrbot-nozzle/
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Nov 30, 2013 05:31
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I was originally looking at the Shapeoko 2 but now I realize a 3D printer would be a better option for the projects I'd like to build. Using a CNC router I had planned on building most of my projects from ABS sheet. How does PLA filament compare to ABS filament with regard to strength and rigidity?
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Dec 3, 2013 00:01
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You can print with ABS, doesn't that make the question moot?
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Dec 3, 2013 00:19
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About what you'd expect. ABS will top PLA for strength while PLA will regularly be more rigid (more dimensionally stable when printing but also more likely to fracture under stress). You'll often see builds where structural pieces are printed with ABS while elements like drive gears are still made with PLA. There are more exotic 'soft' formulations of PLA & ABS available (ECOflex & Bendlay) and other extrudable materials with their own properties like Nylon, PETT, & Polycarbonate.
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Dec 3, 2013 00:25
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I saw some demos of prints with ColorFabb plastics that were some blend of PLA and something else - vibrant color, high detail, and if you hadn't told me otherwise, I would have thought it was ABS. Totally free of that "made out of hollow strands of glass" feeling PLA gives me.
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Dec 3, 2013 00:42
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FlashBewin posted:Thanks for the quick replies and info, There's a Massdrop going on right now for the Printrbot Jr/Plus v2, 15% less retail (if it gets 3 more buyers/committers): https://www.massdrop.com/buy/printrbot-jr-kit Mofabio fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 02:30
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