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Rhyno posted:One of the female clerks is middle aged and has a huge crush on me. I may have flirted my way into numerous cheaper tools in the past. Your doing it wrong.
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Nov 25, 2013 19:01
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SouthsideSaint posted:Well now I just need to wait for a good sale. Will 6013 rods be good for all the basics and learning. I'm not going to be doing any structural or life saving welds. Just exhaust maybe some super small fab work. I assume you know this already, but buy your rods from a reputable welding supplier. The rods from Harbor Freight and their equivalents are poo poo and will break your heart if you're trying to learn with them.
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Nov 26, 2013 00:20
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echomadman posted:I assume you know this already, but buy your rods from a reputable welding supplier. The rods from Harbor Freight and their equivalents are poo poo and will break your heart if you're trying to learn with them. I assumed as much. Where would I be able to find them is there a name brand store I could go to? Maybe google a welding store? Are those even a thing?
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Nov 26, 2013 01:25
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SouthsideSaint posted:I assumed as much. Where would I be able to find them is there a name brand store I could go to? Maybe google a welding store? Are those even a thing? Airgas is always super helpful considering my tiny orders. They're a chain, right?
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Nov 26, 2013 01:41
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I think so. I know where there is one I drive past all the time.
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Nov 26, 2013 02:07
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eddiewalker posted:Airgas is always super helpful considering my tiny orders. They're a chain, right? Yes, a huge, overpriced chain. I support my local welding supply store. Better pricing, better people, and better stuff. Of course, you may not have the option.
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Nov 26, 2013 02:59
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These guys are close but is this a good deal/brand?
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Nov 26, 2013 03:09
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Hi guys, I've been looking at getting a rolling toolbox. I've been doing some searching but I was wondering what you might recommend. I've got about $500 but could stretch it to $1000 (I'd really rather not). I was personally thinking about getting an 18" tool box bottom half from Sears on black Friday. That way I could grow into it and get the top half if I need it. Ideally, I'd like to get a brand from a company that doesn't look like it'll go under in the next year or so, though. Any suggestions?
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Nov 26, 2013 03:31
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rcman50166 posted:Hi guys, Harbor freight red box: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153445 Don't even need to go the full $500. 25% coupon until the end of november on the web site.
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Nov 26, 2013 03:33
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It was either in this thread or the other Tool thread in DIY but recently toolboxes came up and the consensus is that Craftsman toolboxes really aren't worth the money anymore. I have one that my mom got me as a gift a few years back (because she still equates Craftsman as quality, even though the modern stuff is a sad impersonation of the Craftsman tools her father bought 40+ years ago) and it doesn't hold a candle to the no-name box I got from Costco last year for about $300. drat you Motronic! IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 03:35
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There's a reason the HF 42" box has such a following. I've got one, and the top, big drawer has probably 200+# of sockets and ratchets. I slam it shut regularly, and it hasn't cared. My old Craftsman boxes have been relegated to house-tool duty in the basement.
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Nov 26, 2013 03:45
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I'm super surprised to see HF in the running for a good toolbox. That review is very detailed and it looks like they hit all the points that matter. I do own a 2.5 ton steel jack and jack stands from there, so far they seem to work as quality products. Could be because they are lawsuit machines if they were to fail under normal operating conditions.
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Nov 26, 2013 03:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:It was either in this thread or the other Tool thread in DIY but recently toolboxes came up and the consensus is that Craftsman toolboxes really aren't worth the money anymore. I have one that my mom got me as a gift a few years back (because she still equates Craftsman as quality, even though the modern stuff is a sad impersonation of the Craftsman tools her father bought 40+ years ago) and it doesn't hold a candle to the no-name box I got from Costco last year for about $300. The problem is that the quality is all over the place. They seem to farm production out to different factories, and they vary wildly model to model. There are a few out there that are good, a few that are utter poo poo. They look identical and are the same models, but the thickness of steel and quality of rollers are entirely different. In other tool news. I went into canadian tire to buy a battery charger.  Do you see a battery charger anywhere here?  For the canadians in the house. This was all under $300, including the sawhorses under it. 2 ton folding crane, 1500lb leveler, 1000lb engine stand, all on sale 40-55% off this week at canadian tire.
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Nov 26, 2013 03:49
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Anyone know of any good deals on a 1/2" and/or 3/8" cordless impact setup? I've tried to do a bit of looking but didn't find much, and reviews are all over the place. Would like both to be the same brand to use the same batteries obviously. Was hoping to get the 1/2" for wheels and big stuck poo poo and the 3/8" for taking out all the other smaller stuff as necessary.
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Nov 29, 2013 17:23
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Hollis Brown posted:Anyone know of any good deals on a 1/2" and/or 3/8" cordless impact setup? I've tried to do a bit of looking but didn't find much, and reviews are all over the place. Would like both to be the same brand to use the same batteries obviously. Was hoping to get the 1/2" for wheels and big stuck poo poo and the 3/8" for taking out all the other smaller stuff as necessary. I think you'd find the 1/2" would cover everything you need to take off. I'm down to just using 1/2" drive or wrenches. Do you have any other cordless tools? I've been eyeing the Milwaukee, looks like the most powerful cordless, and I have a drill and impact driver already.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:26
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StormDrain posted:I think you'd find the 1/2" would cover everything you need to take off. I'm down to just using 1/2" drive or wrenches. Do you have any other cordless tools? I've been eyeing the Milwaukee, looks like the most powerful cordless, and I have a drill and impact driver already. Is 210 ft-lbs enough for lug nuts? I was hoping to get a compact 1/2inch like this dude: http://tinyurl.com/pluz5tk That comes with 2 batteries a charger and another bare tool, was thinking circular saw.
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Nov 30, 2013 05:24
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Hollis Brown posted:Is 210 ft-lbs enough for lug nuts? I was hoping to get a compact 1/2inch like this dude: http://tinyurl.com/pluz5tk
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Nov 30, 2013 05:48
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For any Canuk that needs a jack, just picked this one up today: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/michelin-2-ton-low-profile-high-lift-service-jack-0091052p.html#.UplvAcSIDPp It's on sale for $150(50% off $300 usual price) right now, looks and feels pretty solid, haven't used it yet. Looked around online and it seems like it was a decent price.
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Nov 30, 2013 05:57
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Hollis Brown posted:Is 210 ft-lbs enough for lug nuts? I was hoping to get a compact 1/2inch like this dude: http://tinyurl.com/pluz5tk I got a Milwaukee 1/2" M18 Impact driver for Christmas last year. It takes lug nuts off all day long, and other rusty suspension bolts that are set to higher torque specs. I wouldn't doubt that the compact version is up to the job of removing lug nuts.
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Nov 30, 2013 06:11
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Krakkles posted:Yes, but you should really be tightening them on with a torque wrench. If you just mean to get them off, carry on! I think he means removing them, and no, 210ft/lbs isn't enough. I have a corded "digital" 1/2 inch impact that can only be turned up to 250 ft/lbs, and it strugges to remove some lugnuts. I would only consider a cordless impact if you had a breaker bar to go along side with it. I've never used a cordless impact that was any more useful than a drill with a 3/8"s socket adapter in it.
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Nov 30, 2013 06:55
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Massive tool deal alert! Zoro Tools is supposedly offering 30% on ANYTHING Cyber Monday. I'm planning on picking up a Miller 375 Extreme plastma cutter for $1k- just under $500 off.
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Nov 30, 2013 07:18
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Powershift posted:I would only consider a cordless impact if you had a breaker bar to go along side with it. You should try an 18v+ name-brand cordless impact sometime. If my 18v Makita won't break it loose, you're going to need a cheater bar on the breaker bar to break it loose.
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Nov 30, 2013 09:58
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I've had my Ryobi impact shear off a subframe bolt before. It has plenty of power. I find when its having trouble so will the 500 ft air impact (for a minute anyway). There are times I've had to use a cheater bar anyway because neither gun could fit.
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Nov 30, 2013 14:24
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Powershift posted:I think he means removing them, and no, 210ft/lbs isn't enough.
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Nov 30, 2013 15:42
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Bajaha posted:For any Canuk that needs a jack, just picked this one up today: Oh poo poo I've really been wanting one of these so I don't have to use ramps with my M3. I assume it weighs about a million pounds?
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Dec 1, 2013 01:12
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Looks somewhat similar to the orange low-profile jack HF sells. The orange one weighs an absolute ton.
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Dec 1, 2013 01:26
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Crustashio posted:I assume it weighs about a million pounds? Yeah, it's got some heft to it. When I looked up some reviews, people say it's easy to maneuver around a garage despite the weight. Probably won't play with it until after the holidays so won't be able to tell until then.
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Dec 1, 2013 02:11
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Krakkles posted:Yes, but you should really be tightening them on with a torque wrench. If you just mean to get them off, carry on! Are torque sticks for lazy dumb dumbs?  edit: I suppose one could use the stick to get 90% of the way there and finish with a torque wrench, wouldn't be too bad at all. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Dec 1, 2013 |
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Dec 1, 2013 04:51
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Hollis Brown posted:edit: I suppose one could use the stick to get 90% of the way there and finish with a torque wrench, wouldn't be too bad at all.
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Dec 1, 2013 05:45
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Truthfully, I gun them on at the low-medium setting in the (500ft-lb) gun, but take care to only go one-two clicks. Then I grab the torque wrench and finish them. (I've never exceeded the torque spec with the gun.) Torquing them with sticks is fine, it's just not fine to, say, buy a 210ft-lb gun and rail them on with that. Wheels should be torqued correctly, both for safety and for "oh gently caress, I have to change this tire on the side of the freeway" scenarios.
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Dec 1, 2013 20:08
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Yeah, airgun on low gives me a quarter or half turn left with the torque wrench to get to the right torque, I find it works well.
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Dec 1, 2013 21:16
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gently caress that, 100 pound torque stick works just fine.
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Dec 1, 2013 22:52
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Preoptopus posted:gently caress that, 100 pound torque stick works just fine. IMHO, a torque stick is good to avoid overtorquing, but the variability of electric torque wrenches is too big to trust it. If I had a proper airgun setup and could get consistent torque from my wrench every time, and had tested it confidently, I might feel differently. grover fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Dec 1, 2013 |
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Dec 1, 2013 22:57
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grover posted:but the variability of electric torque wrenches is too big to trust it. Well...yeah.... Read the instructions with the torque sticks. They specify exactly that. You need to have consistent torque from an air gun. Exactly how much varies based on which set, but it's usually between 375-400. In those (required by the manufacturer) conditions they are typically pretty drat accurate. No wonder they don't work when you're using 210 ft/lbs on a good day for who knows how long based on your battery.
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Dec 1, 2013 23:18
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Yea sorry I thought it was obvious I was talking about an air gun.
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Dec 1, 2013 23:28
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Any recommendations for gloves? I am doing a lot of auto and welding work and the stupid latex ones i am using shred when I even look at an awkward to remove bolt. Big bulky ones get on my tits so I don't wear them and end up with hands like a hookers underpants, soiled and horrible. So what do you all wear?
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Dec 2, 2013 00:24
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Go for the thicker nitrile gloves, they're a lot more wear resistant: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-mil-nitrile-gloves-powder-free-medium-50-pc-68510.html They're a little more annoying to get on and your hands will sweat like crazy, but they work well in my experience.
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Dec 2, 2013 00:33
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Can't remember the brand, but I usually use ones that are thin charcoal colored fabric and have the palm dipped in some sort of rubber. They're very flexible and easy to work in. I think they were a bit pricey but they last quite a while and stand up well to some abuse. I'll see if I can find an example online.
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Dec 2, 2013 00:37
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thegasman2000 posted:Any recommendations for gloves? I am doing a lot of auto and welding work and the stupid latex ones i am using shred when I even look at an awkward to remove bolt. Big bulky ones get on my tits so I don't wear them and end up with hands like a hookers underpants, soiled and horrible. So what do you all wear? Cheapo mountain biking gloves work well, too.
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Dec 2, 2013 00:44
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Bajaha posted:Can't remember the brand, but I usually use ones that are thin charcoal colored fabric and have the palm dipped in some sort of rubber. They're very flexible and easy to work in. I think they were a bit pricey but they last quite a while and stand up well to some abuse. I'll see if I can find an example online. These are decent ones, but a bit thick: Atlas rubber dipped gloves I find that they are pretty flexible, but you can get thinner ones that are even thinner like these ones: Grey Ghost Gloves. Don't buy the cheap ones, they don't last very long, the Atlas ones lasted for 2 weeks of daily work on the back deck of a supply boat in the North Atlantic, where we have to chain all the cargo, even in the summer. SpannerX fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 00:50
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