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Guy Axlerod posted:What voltage did your old transformer put out? I replaced the transformer with the same model, so 16V. Thanks for the advise will report back with my progress.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:54
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I have a new led Christmas tree. I have about ten "light and motion" ornaments from hallmark. They do not have any power rating sticker thingies. One has patented number 4.682.079 The light plug shape for the led is not the same for the ornaments. Is it safe to assume these ornaments run on 120ac and wire up a separate cord for all of the ornaments? Wire gauge? What size fuse should I place inline? And does the fuse go on hot, neutral, or doesn't matter?
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Dec 2, 2013 19:29
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tomapot posted:I replaced the transformer with the same model, so 16V. Thanks for the advise will report back with my progress. How about the most common multimeter test? Do a continuity test (you might need another set of hands for this). Unhook both of your buttons and set your multimeter to resistance. Touch the probes to both of the switch terminals (doesn't matter which) and test both the on and off states of the switch. It should be "open" or "infinite" resistance for off and zero or near-zero resistance for on. If one of those states doesn't work, then the switch is broken and needs to be replaced. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 19:43
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I have a new led Christmas tree. It looks like they just socket into where a mini bulb would. Regular mini bulbs run at ~2.5v (50 in series per leg) and the LEDs I dont think will guarantee you get you the same drop (different strands work differently based on which LEDs, rectification and whatnot), so you'll have to find a way to get them that voltage. The easiest solution would be to buy a single incandescent strand and use that, maybe find one with novelty covers or something. A pair of slightly dead AAs or an adjustable wall wart could be used to test the 2.5v theory safely, I don't know of any mini strands that used a smaller voltage.
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Dec 3, 2013 16:16
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Qwijib0 posted:It looks like they just socket into where a mini bulb would. Regular mini bulbs run at ~2.5v (50 in series per leg) and the LEDs I dont think will guarantee you get you the same drop (different strands work differently based on which LEDs, rectification and whatnot), so you'll have to find a way to get them that voltage. The easiest solution would be to buy a single incandescent strand and use that, maybe find one with novelty covers or something. A pair of slightly dead AAs or an adjustable wall wart could be used to test the 2.5v theory safely, I don't know of any mini strands that used a smaller voltage. Indulge me here. How do the incandescent run at 2.5v when it seems there is no transformer on the strand?
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Dec 3, 2013 16:50
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50 bulbs in series means each bulb gets 1/50th of the supply voltage. 120V / 50 Bulbs = 2.4V per bulb
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Dec 3, 2013 17:01
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The answer is in the second or third sentence of the post you quoted - the lamps are run in series. There's usually 100 per strand, so there are generally two series circuits with 50 bulbs each in them, with each circuit of 50 run in parallel with the other. So each bulb sees 2.4 volts or so. This is why any one bulb being removed from a strand of christmas lights makes half the bulbs go dark. With one bulb removed, there will be 120 volts across that one particular circuit (since it's an open circuit with no current flowing and thus no voltage drop across the other bulbs in the circuit) but with all the bulbs working, the 120 volts is shared equally across all 50 of them. e: f, b
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Dec 3, 2013 17:01
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Here's a picture ripped from a GIS to better explain You'll notice that there are 3 wires twisted for most of the length of a strand of Christmas lights, but at spots in the middle and at the ends there are only two. Long sets of tiny bulbs are run in series (125/50 = 2.5V as explained above) during most of the strand, and your ornament is designed to use the equivalent electricity of a single bulb in that circuit. You either need to simulate plugging it in to a regular Christmas light circuit by giving it ~2.5V directly, or by using a strand it was designed to plug in to. edit: and since these are 'motion' ornaments, they probably need AC to run the motion bit so batteries won't really work, the short answer is to buy a cheap set of mini lights. If you don't want them on the tree, you could go the creative route and stuff most of them into a glass block like the one below, then have the tail end of the strand go up the tree center as a feeder to your ornaments.  Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 18:01
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kastein posted:This is why any one bulb being removed from a strand of christmas lights makes half the bulbs go dark. The bane of Clark Griswolds everywhere. Actually, I shouldn't talk smack. My grandpa was the king of motion ornaments, god rest his soul. The best thing about them is that since they're only used maybe a month a year, they last forever. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 05:21
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While we're on the subject: my parents bought a new artificial tree pre-lit with strands of normal filament bulbs, but they appear to be wired in parallel because pulling a bulb doesn't make any of the others go dark. Their Hallmark talking ornaments fit in the bulb sockets and light up, but they talk reeeally slooowly. The light strands plug together with the normal green "stackable" 120v plugs and I don't see a transformer or anything. Any idea what kind of arrangement this is?
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Dec 4, 2013 14:16
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Some modern strands have a shunt in the socket, so when a bulb is dislodged, it bridges the connection to keep the rest of the strand lit up. When the bulb is in the socket, it pushes the shunt away from the contacts. If you pull a bulb while they're lit, you'll probably see that string flicker momentarily while the shunt takes the place of the bulb.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:10
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While we are on the subject of mini-lights, this year I bought one of these and it is amazing. http://lightkeeperpro.com/home/ It has a piezo ignition type thing that will jump-start any failed shunts in burnt-out bulbs and get the strand to re-illuminate. It also has a built-in voltage detector that I find to be an easier solution to finding the broken bulb. Just wave the detector along the strand until it stops beeping and that's where the broken bulb is. Another thing I learned this year is since the bulbs are run in series, a burnt-out bulb with an active shunt increases the voltage to the rest of the lamps. So if before the voltage was 120V / 50 bulbs = 2.4V/bulb, with four burned-out each bulbs sees 120V / 46 bulbs = 2.6V/bulb. So the voltage goes up with each burned out bulb. When the voltage goes up, the life expectancy for each bulb goes down. So if you have 1 or 2 burned-out mini bulbs its best to get them replaced so they don't take down the rest of the strand.
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Dec 4, 2013 18:17
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tomapot posted:I replaced the transformer with the same model, so 16V. Thanks for the advise will report back with my progress. Almost all doorbell transformers are 16V, that being said a 10 volt/amp transformer seems really low capacity for that many bells and presumably some long wiring runs. Typically I'd spec something like this if it were one of my projects. Samahiel fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 20:01
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Thanks grover and kastein for confirming my suspicion last page. With the amount of ads those guys are running, I know it's only a matter of time before I have to talk someone out of buying one. tomapot's door bell: I'd start checking resistance on everything through the system, and then check voltage at the chimes when a button is pressed. Bell wire isn't particularly robust, and pushing 16VAC over long runs to two chimes or bells in parallel is likely straining that transformer (which might have contributed to the demise of the last one). Disconnect the 16V taps at the transformer and check resistance across the circuit. It should be very high - either an open circuit, or a factor of high-resistance filaments in lighted buttons and the chime coils. Have a helper press and hold the front door button, and then the side door button - there shouldn't be a substantial difference between the two. Reconnect the transformer, and disconnect the chimes. Test for voltage at either chime when your helper presses either button - should be approximately 16VAC in each instance. Compare resistance of the chime coils or bell connections. If one is significantly different than the other three, replace that chime. If not, reconnect one chime at a time, repeat voltage checks. Check voltage again with both chimes connected. If all is well until two chimes are connected in parallel and voltage drops too low to operate them, hunt for a better spec transformer.
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Dec 5, 2013 04:16
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Since this time last year, I've been looking for a good way to make an extension cord with inline outlets along its length for optimal christmas light installation. I just found this product on mcmaster-carr, which is exactly what I want but not customized to my needs: I still can't find just the inline outlet portion anywhere. Does anyone know where I can source such a thing like I would a normal plug/receptacle end? I don't see why this is apparently such an exotic part.
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Dec 5, 2013 04:53
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Couldn't you just use an electrical box and install an outlet in it?
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Dec 5, 2013 14:33
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Bad Munki posted:Since this time last year, I've been looking for a good way to make an extension cord with inline outlets along its length for optimal christmas light installation. I just found this product on mcmaster-carr, which is exactly what I want but not customized to my needs: American De Rosa Item# D2383 does what you want, but is ungrounded and meant for indoor use. I think Satco makes something, when I get to the office and have all my catalogs I'll check.
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Dec 5, 2013 14:46
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Guy Axlerod posted:Couldn't you just use an electrical box and install an outlet in it? Too clunky. I want it to look nice, or at least as nice as an extension cord strung around my porch can. Samahiel posted:American De Rosa Item# D2383 does what you want, but is ungrounded and meant for indoor use. I think Satco makes something, when I get to the office and have all my catalogs I'll check. I'd appreciate that, thanks!
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Dec 5, 2013 15:08
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Bad Munki posted:I'd appreciate that, thanks! Satco's Item# 90-1404 has the same issue. They're all meant for 18/2 SPT-1 lamp wire. I've also checked Grainger, Hubbell, and Leviton. The only place I found anything close was a website in Chinese who I'm sure will happily sell you a few thousand. Guy Axlerod posted:Couldn't you just use an electrical box and install an outlet in it? I'm inclined to agree with this guy has the best solution. Or, buying one of the pre-made ones. Either would be a heck of a lot faster and safer.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:02
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But it won't look as legittttt 
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Dec 5, 2013 16:05
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Bad Munki posted:Too clunky. I want it to look nice, or at least as nice as an extension cord strung around my porch can. Can you mspaint what you want to do? I'm curious if double socket extension cords can solve your problem.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:06
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Samahiel posted:Satco's Item# 90-1404 has the same issue. They're all meant for 18/2 SPT-1 lamp wire. I've also checked Grainger, Hubbell, and Leviton. The only place I found anything close was a website in Chinese who I'm sure will happily sell you a few thousand. Are these "better" than the ones in your catalogs? http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-green-pack-12-plugs-100sptplug/
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Dec 5, 2013 16:12
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I can do better, here's a pic of one place I want the cord for, as an example: For that one, I've got those three columns with lights wrapped around them. There's an outlet on the wall of the house to the left. As you can see, right now I've got lovely lamp cords, that's a big no-no, but whatever, it was temporary last night and was only plugged in for about an hour after I got everything installed. Anyhow, what I want is to have a single cord plugged into the exterior outlet that just runs along the edge of the porch with an outlet at the bottom of each column. Yes, I could just make a series of appropriately-lengthed extension cords and put a 3-way at each column, and plug the next cord into that as well. But dammit, I like a graceful installation, and it would be cooler to have a single cord that is perfect for this and provides power to the base of each column. I'm just being persnickety, is all, and I find it hard to believe nobody makes the part I need. I feel like selling just the inline outlet would be more useful than the pre-made inline outlet extension cords they make, since those would almost never have the best spacing for a particular need. v  ve: forgot the actual pic herp derp ee: omg huge Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 16:16
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Can you mspaint what you want to do? I'm curious if double socket extension cords can solve your problem. The other thing you can do is splice a pigtail with a socket at the end off your cord. As long as you have some way to seal up the junction nice and water tight. Comedy option, get a light string with E-26 sockets and screw in those adaptors that changes it to a polarized plug (don't do this). Qwijib0 posted:Are these "better" than the ones in your catalogs? It's the same. I just don't trust ungrounded clips like that outdoors with 120 volts. If it was dry, or 12 volts I'd say go for it. Bad Munki posted:I'm just being persnickety, is all, and I find it hard to believe nobody makes the part I need. I feel like selling just the inline outlet would be more useful than the pre-made inline outlet extension cords they make, since those would almost never have the best spacing for a particular need. v Obviously someone makes it, it's just comes down to UL probably not listing them for retail sale when they know some chuckle gently caress (not you obviously ) is going to do something dumb like use them next to a pool without proper grounding, to power 20 amps of lawn decorations or something. Samahiel fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 16:38
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Well, at the very least, the outlet is properly gfci protected, so everything downstream is as well.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:43
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Bad Munki posted:Well, at the very least, the outlet is properly gfci protected, so everything downstream is as well. Well there's plenty of options that would work on your 18 gauge lamp cord. I just tend to be very paranoid about water and electricity. e: grammar Samahiel fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 16:46
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At least in that example, I could flip the lights over so the plug is at the top and then run the cord along under the eaves. It'd be as dry there as anywhere could be. Might even do that anyhow just to make the cord more hidden.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:48
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I've considered switching to commercial grade LED lights that use the coaxial connectors for many of the same reasons. http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/commercial-LED-Christmas-Lights-accessories--812.htm
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Dec 5, 2013 21:41
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Entangled posted:I've considered switching to commercial grade LED lights that use the coaxial connectors for many of the same reasons. Those connectors look like the old rope light connectors from when UL used to let us sell it off bulk reels. Oh hey that got me thinking about American Light. If anyone makes an inline socket for Christmass lights it'll be them. http://www.americanlighting.com/products.cfm?ID=66 e: once again it's for 18/2 spt-1 wire. I think you could make something work with that, but I definitely recommend running it up high and having it on a GFCI. In my minds eye I keep seeing daisy chained extension cords run through flower beds and across walk ways with standing puddles, but that's really not the case in your install. Samahiel fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 21:46
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Yeah, it looks like those vampire clips for zip cord are probably going to be my only answer if I want a single cord instead of a bunch of daisy-chained cords with splitters along the way. Which is probably okay, I'll just do like I was thinking and put the cord up along the eaves. Plus, then I can just leave the cord up all summer, it'll be basically invisible there.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 21:54
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, it looks like those vampire clips for zip cord are probably going to be my only answer if I want a single cord instead of a bunch of daisy-chained cords with splitters along the way. Which is probably okay, I'll just do like I was thinking and put the cord up along the eves. Plus, then I can just leave the cord up all summer, it'll be basically invisible there. I really need to stop going back and editing new info into my posts and get over being neat and tidy. so see above. But, yeah, I'm over engineering the solution. I blame my years as an installer/service tech. I've seen some dangerous poo poo. Samahiel fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 21:56
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This came up last Christmas here. The answer then was vampire/zip plugs too.
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Dec 6, 2013 00:27
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Yeah, I know, I think it was me, even. I was just hoping I might actually have better luck this year. Keep hope alive. 
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Dec 6, 2013 00:32
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I want to put some electrical outlets inside my bathroom cabinet, so that I don't have a big mess of chargers and cords on my counter. There's an outlet near where I want the electrical cable to exit the cabinet (about a foot away) that I intend to wire it to. I know the basics of how to wire it up correctly. What I don't know is how I'm supposed to get the cable into the outlet box with all that drywall in the way. It looks like the outlet box is attached to a stud, so I can't just pull it out of the wall. The countertop hasn't been installed yet, so I have a little bit of leeway to drill holes or whatever, but I don't want to totally tear things up. Any recommendations?
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Dec 6, 2013 20:43
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I guess I don't quite understand what you are trying to do-- are you wanting to hardwire an outlet in the cabinet, or put a box in the cabinet, then plug it in to an existing outlet? Regarding your box attached to the stud problem, you can just cut the nails attaching it, pull the box, then replace it at the end with an "old work" box that will just attach to the drywall.
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Dec 6, 2013 21:05
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I want to hardwire this: http://www.x1up.com/.sc/ms/dd/Hardwire%20Power%20Strip--24%20in/249/ And ah, cutting the nails hadn't occurred to me. That would definitely simplify things, thanks.
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Dec 6, 2013 22:23
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Last year the lights on my pre-lit Christmas tree started flickering and I ended up having to cut off one of the bulb sockets and solder the wires together. Assuming that I'm not crap at soldering, how dangerous is this? Should I get an AFCI for that room as a precaution?
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Dec 7, 2013 02:15
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Zhentar posted:I want to hardwire this: http://www.x1up.com/.sc/ms/dd/Hardwire%20Power%20Strip--24%20in/249/ If it's only a foot difference, then you may or may not be lucky. It depends on whether the box is attached to the same side of the stud as you want to run the new outlet or not. If not, then the easiest way is to bust out a reciprocating saw and cur the current box out. Use that space to drill through the stud and feed the wire to the new outlet through the hole you just cut. Replace the old box and be done with it.
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Dec 7, 2013 08:59
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Drywall work is easy and cheap. Open the wall, deal with the wiring, close the wall. Unless there is tile or texturing involved.
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Dec 7, 2013 17:37
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kastein posted:Drywall work is easy and cheap. Open the wall, deal with the wiring, close the wall. Unless there is tile or texturing involved. Or it is load-bearing.
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Dec 7, 2013 17:49
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