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Jade Mage posted:Hey, I'm extremely new to wargaming (first ever minis bought today) and was wondering about two things. Welcome to this hobby OR run while you can. It really depends on the individual model how you want to assemble it. I think Infinity are all metal models, so you'll want to use superglue (aka CA/Cyanoacrylate glue) to bond the two pieces. Depending on the join and the pieces, you may want to pin them for additional security. Here is a little pinning tutorial to get you started. I eventually got tired of my joints popping off, so I started pinning everything. Then again, I'm a little OCD... Painting order is up to personal preference. Some people do it after, because if it's a hard-to-access area, then it's probably also difficult to see, so it doesn't matter if you paint way down in there. Other people like to paint first, then assemble, but remember not to paint the surfaces that you'll be gluing together, or it'll be a weak bond. [edit] Fixed my link. 
Aranan fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 02:11
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That's a nice brush thrall write-up. I've got a few things to add: Pinning is effective for one or two reasons. First, it increases the surface area of the join. Ensure there is space between the pin and the hole. You want glue in that space. No or less glue = less bonding. Second, when you double pin you counter-act how easily superglue can be broken with a twist. Double pinning improves flush joins. Kicker: faster, but weaker bond. Someone once told me that a little bit of moisture and pressure will speed the bonding of superglue. It seemed to work. In fact, I've noticed that my superglue is less effective in the dry winter months.
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Dec 4, 2013 02:39
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Under 15 posted:On the topic of less is more, I want to share my rattlecan method because I've been spraying a lot of dudes lately. I used to piss through a lot of spray paint because I'd stand the models up (usually taping them down so they wouldn't tip over) on a box top and spray them like that. I've saved an awful lot of spray paint by laying them down in a circle, bases pointed inward. Doing that, you can spray in gentle arcs rather than off into space, and you can rotate the box top with your wrist and make sure that all the time you are spraying, you're getting a model, and not the bottom of a base or nothing. It's easy to piss through primer if you aren't thinking about it. I saw a really interesting priming tutorial where they used a paint stirrer which you can pick up for free from most home improvement places and some cheap double sided tape(though I bet blu tac would work too) and then started spraying. The thin stirrer is strong enough to hold the models and you can pick them up and move them around as you spray. I usually use a piece of cardboard but I'm going to try this out next time.
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Dec 4, 2013 03:09
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Jonny Nox posted:Hold on, you guys don't have game stores like this? Sentry box is the poo poo. Probably my favorite place in calgary
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Dec 4, 2013 03:10
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jodai posted:I saw a really interesting priming tutorial where they used a paint stirrer which you can pick up for free from most home improvement places and some cheap double sided tape(though I bet blu tac would work too) and then started spraying. The thin stirrer is strong enough to hold the models and you can pick them up and move them around as you spray. I usually use a piece of cardboard but I'm going to try this out next time. You can also just put on a rubber glove and hold the model in your hand.
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Dec 4, 2013 03:40
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If you're only priming a few models and not a giant batch, I've always found those kinds of methods to go so much farther when applying primer. One I use is a left over long piece of GW modular tray and those binder clips. Can fit 5 terminator size models on it an can hit the models from every angel you need while keeping your hand clean.
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Dec 4, 2013 03:54
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Finding this page really useful for some basic sculpting; http://www.steamforged.com/sculpting-101-chains-chainmail-and-belt-buckles/ http://www.steamforged.com/painting-and-modelling/ I'm trying to make my own broken swords, armour, belts etc to put on ruins and ruin bases. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 04:08
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JoshTheStampede posted:You can also just put on a rubber glove and hold the model in your hand. Oh yeah, the person was wearing a glove. I guess the idea was you can do several models at the same time. For some reason, just holding the model in my hand and priming it never really came to mind but that would work really well for models with flaring capes, wings or dramatic poses that make it hard to spray down otherwise. I usually just use brush on gesso but I'm getting into warhammer and speeding up the whole process would be nice.
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Dec 4, 2013 05:24
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MisterG posted:Someone once told me that a little bit of moisture and pressure will speed the bonding of superglue. It seemed to work. In fact, I've noticed that my superglue is less effective in the dry winter months. This is absolutely true, and you are not imagining the humidity effect either. Water (hydroxyl groups, technically) is the catalyst that makes cyanoacrylate begin to polymerize. That's why old bottles of cyanoacrylate eventually solidify, since the humidity in the air, inside the bottle, causes it to eventually turn into a block of plastic. It is also why thin layers are best - thick layers just cause a skin of polymerized glue to form while the rest stays relatively unpolymerized, greatly slowing down bonding speed and strength. It's also why super glue bonds instantly to skin...plenty of crevices for monomers to bond, and plenty of moisture to kick off the polymerization reaction. 
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Dec 4, 2013 05:53
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Does anyone else find that crisis suits are awful to paint? I love painting everything else in the tau army, but can't stand crisis suits for some reason.
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Dec 4, 2013 07:47
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Booley posted:Does anyone else find that crisis suits are awful to paint? I love painting everything else in the tau army, but can't stand crisis suits for some reason. No rivets, must be a dream 
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Dec 4, 2013 08:02
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Booley posted:Does anyone else find that crisis suits are awful to paint? I love painting everything else in the tau army, but can't stand crisis suits for some reason. Nope. They're gundams with large surface areas so you can put wizard van paintjobs on them. I treat them like ace fighter jockeys so put paintjobs like this one.
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Dec 4, 2013 08:06
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Fox of Stone posted:Nope. They're gundams with large surface areas so you can put wizard van paintjobs on them. I treat them like ace fighter jockeys so put paintjobs like this one. This just made me wonder why the hell I haven't made an ork trukk with a wizard painted on the side.
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Dec 4, 2013 08:21
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theironjef has some really awesome wizard van Dark Eldar. Here's a picture I dug out of the 40k thread:  There's a bunch more in this post: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3494017&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=682#post417157540 
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Dec 4, 2013 08:35
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Attention Krushgroove and/or richyp. It's cool that you guys added my blog to your Wargames Blog aggregator thingy, but for some reason no pictures or links to the blog show up in my posts. Why is this? Why? Why did you do this? I'm actually just wondering, because I see pictures in other blog posts on there, and I want my pictures on there too.
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Dec 4, 2013 14:37
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Booley posted:Does anyone else find that crisis suits are awful to paint? I love painting everything else in the tau army, but can't stand crisis suits for some reason. Yes, especially the legs, so many nooks and crannies to miss. My riptide was what pushed me to start painting marines instead for a while. Although in your case it might just be that you're painting white and yellow. v  v
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Dec 4, 2013 15:15
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ijyt posted:Yes, especially the legs, so many nooks and crannies to miss. My riptide was what pushed me to start painting marines instead for a while. Yeah but I loved painting my riptide and broadsides, which are basically the same thing only bigger. And I usually hate painting fire warriors, but they've been fun to paint. There's just something about crisis suits specifically that sucks.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:41
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Crisis suits are kind of lovely miniatures. I 'had to' get some Forge World crisis suits in order to bring myself to make them. I mixed the parts around and have a bunch of mix & match suits. Really happy with the result.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:54
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The broad, flat surfaces and lack of fiddly details makes Crisis Suits and Firewarriors easy to paint. The Crisis Suits are just plain bad models, though, what with the giant dumb ball socket joints, big dumb heads, stubby arms, and chicken ankles. Fire Warriors look great with a proper paint job, though. The right touch can cover up the blobby lack of detail on the hands or the awkward poses, which is more than can be said about the old DE Warriors (which are, oddly enough, still for sale).
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Dec 4, 2013 22:08
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TheBlobThing posted:Attention Krushgroove and/or richyp. It's cool that you guys added my blog to your Wargames Blog aggregator thingy, but for some reason no pictures or links to the blog show up in my posts. Why is this? Why? Why did you do this? To be honest I've no idea why they're not showing up, it just uses a 3rd party plugin to pull the content down in the same way it does the other blogs. The only thing I can think of is that either the host doesn't allow remote linking of the blog images or the feed only has snippets of the content.
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Dec 4, 2013 23:26
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Post 9-11 User posted:the old DE Warriors (which are, oddly enough, still for sale). They're not. Look at their availability.
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Dec 5, 2013 00:20
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richyp posted:To be honest I've no idea why they're not showing up, it just uses a 3rd party plugin to pull the content down in the same way it does the other blogs. The only thing I can think of is that either the host doesn't allow remote linking of the blog images or the feed only has snippets of the content. That's strange. It's just a Wordpress blog, and I'm just using Wordpress' own photo hosting. Maybe I should switch to using imgur instead.
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Dec 5, 2013 01:01
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Why did they repaint them to the new Black Heart color scheme just to replace them?
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Dec 5, 2013 01:19
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What's the best cheap alternative to the GW texture paints for basing? I think I'm finally ready to move on from glueing down sand.
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Dec 5, 2013 05:29
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dishwasherlove posted:What's the best cheap alternative to the GW texture paints for basing? I think I'm finally ready to move on from glueing down sand. You want flock and static grass. Stuff like this is normally generically called "basing material." I like Gale Force 9's products (especially their basing kits, that are just a bunch of their basing products for a bit of a discount), but you can probably get it cheaper from model railroad stores.
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Dec 5, 2013 05:35
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Post 9-11 User posted:The broad, flat surfaces and lack of fiddly details makes Crisis Suits and Firewarriors easy to paint. The Crisis Suits are just plain bad models, though, what with the giant dumb ball socket joints, big dumb heads, stubby arms, and chicken ankles. Fire Warriors look great with a proper paint job, though. The right touch can cover up the blobby lack of detail on the hands or the awkward poses, which is more than can be said about the old DE Warriors (which are, oddly enough, still for sale). Whoops, gotta amend my position and agree this post. I've been using and painting forgeworld crisis suits for so long that I forgot the normal ones exist and are terrible. Forgeworld suits also have way more surface area for wizards.
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Dec 5, 2013 06:01
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Sorry let me rephrase that. What is a textured paint for basing that isn't from GW but closely matches the Citadel Texture paints?
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Dec 5, 2013 06:31
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dishwasherlove posted:Sorry let me rephrase that. What is a textured paint for basing that isn't from GW but closely matches the Citadel Texture paints? I believe vallejo make texture paint
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Dec 5, 2013 10:33
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dishwasherlove posted:Sorry let me rephrase that. What is a textured paint for basing that isn't from GW but closely matches the Citadel Texture paints? Vallejo Water & Stone: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/water-_-stone/family/21
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Dec 5, 2013 11:10
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dishwasherlove posted:Sorry let me rephrase that. What is a textured paint for basing that isn't from GW but closely matches the Citadel Texture paints? Coat d'Arms make some that comes in a nice big pot and a variety of colours.
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Dec 5, 2013 13:17
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dishwasherlove posted:Sorry let me rephrase that. What is a textured paint for basing that isn't from GW but closely matches the Citadel Texture paints? I got a jar of Vallejo Black Lava not too long ago to base a bunch of Flames of War stuff and it's pretty fantastic. I slather that poo poo on pretty much everything now instead of using sand or fine gravel like I used to.
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Dec 5, 2013 14:15
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dishwasherlove posted:What's the best cheap alternative to the GW texture paints for basing? I think I'm finally ready to move on from glueing down sand. http://www.liquitex.com/EffectsMediums/ Black Lava or Natural Sand are good options. I got mine at Michaels (don't forget your 40% coupon). Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 16:00
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How the gently caress do you paint white because this is miserable
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Dec 5, 2013 16:17
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:How the gently caress do you paint white because this is miserable Only use the very best paint, many whites are poo poo. Paint white over a light grey base coat. Apply multiple coats of white, and brush each coat in a different direction as you layer the paint. If you are using lots of white on your model consider using a white primer and don't paint over it. If you are using small spots of white, tough it out.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:20
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Im doing my first ever miniature painting and I was hoping you guys could help me on the best way to tackle painting wheels like this. The wheels are perfectly round and dont have any detail separating the black tire, mid area metal, and the inside brown. Was this done pure free hand or can anyone think of a trick?
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Dec 5, 2013 16:36
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Get a brush with longer bristles, the point doesn't matter. Load the brush up so it's about half-way up to the ferrule, then get rid of some of it; you want more than say a drybrush, but you can't have any blobbing up. Then, take the bike and hold it sideways, and run the brush on the wheel's side along the rim of the wheel, so the bristles are pointing inwards like spokes, or a radial line. If you can keep the angle of the brush to the wheel steady and run the brush along, it should only paint the most raised portion, and keep a rather steady line between the tire and rim. Adjust the angle to get the right ratio of black to beige.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:43
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Takkaryx posted:Get a brush with longer bristles, the point doesn't matter. Load the brush up so it's about half-way up to the ferrule, then get rid of some of it; you want more than say a drybrush, but you can't have any blobbing up. Then, take the bike and hold it sideways, and run the brush on the wheel's side along the rim of the wheel, so the bristles are pointing inwards like spokes, or a radial line. If you can keep the angle of the brush to the wheel steady and run the brush along, it should only paint the most raised portion, and keep a rather steady line between the tire and rim. Adjust the angle to get the right ratio of black to beige. Oh that sounds good. I will try that. Thanks!
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Dec 5, 2013 16:48
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Indolent Bastard posted:http://www.liquitex.com/EffectsMediums/ Seconding this. It's especially great if you want to do big pieces like terrain. It also acts as a medium, so you can mix it with color (like the Liquitex basic paints, which are great) to give you a good base to paint on.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:58
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:How the gently caress do you paint white because this is miserable An airbrush.
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Dec 5, 2013 17:00
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:How the gently caress do you paint white because this is miserable And pray to god you don't spill any dark colour on your white areas.
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Dec 5, 2013 17:32
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