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Uncle Lina posted:When is the best time to put my puppys collar on? He is about 8 weeks old now and he gets depressed and lethargic whenever he wears a collar or harness. He will have to wear a collar permanently for his tags when we get them. Is it best to put it on and then tough it out and not give in? Put collar on, leave collar on. Bam, done.
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Dec 3, 2013 13:45
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Clandestine! posted:Speaking of purse dogs I tried the kibble with people food trick already. Dog just eats around the kibble. I've even tried soaking the kibble and tossing bacon in there with it, still eats the bacon out, avoids the softened food, in case it was a dental problem that we weren't aware of, still no go. Wet food, still no go, even with people food mixed in. The other thing that is annoying me, is the dog does the submissive roll whenever someone tries to leash him, so my bestie, who really is just a stopgap since he didn't want this dog to go to the shelter, and was happy as can be when my mom said she wants a cute little thing to have around the house, has just been letting him out. Now my best friend lives in a nice neighborhood, but there's still a fair bit of traffic, a few wild animals, and especially birds of prey that would be more than happy to snatch away a little chi. but he figures his neighbor lets her little norfolk/jack russel mix out to run, and that dog does just fine, he can let Carlos out without a problem. the norfolk/jrt mix is also about 6-7lbs heavier than the chi, and now the dog's getting the idea that he can just whine at the door and get let out and come whine at the door again to be let back in and have free roam of the neighborhoood. Which is definitely not going to fly in an apartment building. luckily he doesn't stay out real long right now since he's a chihuahua in south dakota winters, so he's out and back within 15 minutes, but if he gives up how good he was on a lead (no pulling or anything. Didn't heel, liked to be out front, but didn't pull) thanks to my idiot best friend who used to be able to let his GSD out without a problem thinking it applied the same to a dog an eigth of the size. As for "purses" every chi I've met is happy as can be in a big tote bag with a blanket for it to den into. Just get a cheap library/walmart/whatever tote and put a blanket in there since chis love to burrow/den, and they're happy.
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Dec 3, 2013 14:32
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Fraction posted:Put collar on, leave collar on. Bam, done. Yeah this. They sulk for a while and then they forget about it. Sometimes it takes a while if they decide to be a little bitch about it (my current puppy was sad about wearing a collar for like a month) but usually they get over it in a couple days.
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Dec 3, 2013 16:21
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ButWhatIf posted:I'd let the demand behaviors extinguish before trying to ask for an alternative one, personally - most people don't like going that route though because the extinction burst is an annoying process, but a behavior that has gone through that process is much less likely to resurface later.
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Dec 3, 2013 17:05
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Superconsndar posted:Yeah this. They sulk for a while and then they forget about it. Sometimes it takes a while if they decide to be a little bitch about it (my current puppy was sad about wearing a collar for like a month) but usually they get over it in a couple days. A highly relevant (and adorable [in my opinion because my dog is the cutest creature on earth]) video on puppies not liking their collars and what you should do about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBIW3dYDlbs You should take video and laugh at it.
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Dec 3, 2013 18:17
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an expert posted:I think the least obnoxious option would be to not sneak your dog into places where dogs aren't allowed. Ah, I don't really take him to places he isn't allowed. Used to when he was smaller and quieter but now he's so excited about people that that wouldn't fly. I always exaggerate, tending to forget that it doesn't translate well over the internet. Sorry. I've got him like a bazillion sweaters, but even the littlest boots slip off his feet and I end up having to carry him home so his toes don't freeze, so I might look for some wax. Thanks. (I don't think my own ego could handle a dog stroller, or god, those weird little baby kangaroo packs that they're marketing for dogs now, that poo poo is just the most furbabby thing imaginable) I didn't even think about big tote bags and a blanket! Thanks, AA.
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Dec 3, 2013 18:50
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I'm looking after my landlord's husky who is about a year old, so not really a puppy anymore. Everything's great, she's a super chill dog who likes to sleep on people's feet. The only question I had was that she likes to play tug of war with her toys. We had a couple of guests come visit and one guy, who is kind likes to pretend he knows everything about everything, said that tug-of-war was "bad." Didn't really explain himself, just started trying to get her to play fetch with her toys which she didn't really care for. Also are there any tricks to getting a dog to drop something out of their mouth? I assume it comes down to how they were trained. She's good about letting stuff go indoors, but outdoors when she's distracted it's almost impossible. She manage to get a squirrel tail (no squirrel attached) in her mouth when I was walking with her back to the house. She would just not let it go even though I kept telling her to "Drop it." and "Leave it." which usually works. Managed to pull it out minus a bit of hair which... she promptly ate, and chewed a couple of times on my finger to boot. Dammit dog!
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Dec 3, 2013 18:55
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Dreylad posted:Also are there any tricks to getting a dog to drop something out of their mouth? I assume it comes down to how they were trained. She's good about letting stuff go indoors, but outdoors when she's distracted it's almost impossible. She manage to get a squirrel tail (no squirrel attached) in her mouth when I was walking with her back to the house. She would just not let it go even though I kept telling her to "Drop it." and "Leave it." which usually works. Managed to pull it out minus a bit of hair which... she promptly ate, and chewed a couple of times on my finger to boot. Dammit dog! How I teach it likely wouldn't work in the squirrel scenario, unfortunately. It's vital to practice a behavior when it's more likely to happen so that you *can* reinforce it. What I do is use a tasty piece of food, say "Drop it," then put the food right in the dog's face. They can't hold onto the thing they've got in their mouth and take the food at the same time, so they basically have to let go of the thing. Repeat until dog is conditioned to immediately open mouth at the phrase. Slowly increase the value of the thing they are dropping until they're having to let go of stuff like garbage or roadkill (ugh). Keep in mind also that since you're dogsitting, odds are you won't get the time to really strengthen this behavior, so keeping a good and wary eye for objects she oughtn't have ahead of time is gonna be your bread and butter. Good luck!
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Dec 3, 2013 19:09
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Dreylad posted:I'm looking after my landlord's husky who is about a year old, so not really a puppy anymore. Everything's great, she's a super chill dog who likes to sleep on people's feet. The only question I had was that she likes to play tug of war with her toys. We had a couple of guests come visit and one guy, who is kind likes to pretend he knows everything about everything, said that tug-of-war was "bad." Didn't really explain himself, just started trying to get her to play fetch with her toys which she didn't really care for. In regards to Tug being bad that's complete bullshit. It's a great activity for your dog and prime at tiring them out. Just make sure they only tug on items you want (This can be helped with the before mentioned "Drop it")
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Dec 3, 2013 19:19
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Dreylad posted:I'm looking after my landlord's husky who is about a year old, so not really a puppy anymore. Everything's great, she's a super chill dog who likes to sleep on people's feet. The only question I had was that she likes to play tug of war with her toys. We had a couple of guests come visit and one guy, who is kind likes to pretend he knows everything about everything, said that tug-of-war was "bad." Didn't really explain himself, just started trying to get her to play fetch with her toys which she didn't really care for. If they have a collar on, you can usually get a drop it on a tug by doing a collar grab under the chin, then gently push the toy into the dog. They no longer have the leverage to create any tension on the toy, so it's 'dead' and not as interesting. When they eventually open their mouth, mark it and reward by telling them to get it and playing more tug. Lather, rinse repeat to teach the drop it with the tug, and it's a good management strategy if they get too worked up in a new situation. It does require you to handle whatever they've got, but it sounds like you were doing that anyway. Engineer Lenk fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 19:25
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It doesn't sound like you have enough time to actually work on it, but I like this video for teaching a dog to drop: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndTiVOCNY4M
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Dec 3, 2013 19:51
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Thanks for the responses everyone. Good to know that tug isn't bad for them (didn't make much sense to me! And yeah it's great for burning energy) and some tips on getting her to drop stuff that shouldn't be in her mouth. I'll certainly let her owner know and I'm sure she'll work on it some more with the dog. Gonna watch that youtube video and see if I can at least get her started this afternoon. All I can offer in thanks is a picture of her sleeping on a shoe: 
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Dec 3, 2013 21:32
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Thanks, I wasn't sure what it looked like when a puppy and a shoe were in the same room and the shoe wasn't in the puppy's mouth 
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Dec 3, 2013 21:33
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Dreylad posted:We had a couple of guests come visit and one guy, who is kind likes to pretend he knows everything about everything, said that tug-of-war was "bad." Didn't really explain himself, just started trying to get her to play fetch with her toys which she didn't really care for. The only place I've read about tug (and rough housing) being "bad" is in "Click to Calm" in reference to human aggressive dogs with a bite history, but then it's only elaborated for rough housing so yea for your normal dog it's a fun good game to play.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:00
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It's a popular myth amongst some people because dogs tend to get growly or over-excited during tug and can get mouthy with hands. So some people thought it causes dogs to become aggressive, which is of course bullshit. Tug is a fantastic game, but it should be played with boundaries/rules (drop it when I say, mostly).
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Dec 4, 2013 05:09
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Tug is my second favorite game with Tater, just under "slap the poo poo out of the dog with an oven mitt."
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Dec 4, 2013 06:38
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Eegah posted:Tug is my second favorite game with Tater, just under "slap the poo poo out of the dog with an oven mitt." No joke I'm going to do that with my puppy tonight. She loves to play directly with us and tries so hard to not bite but they show affection by nipping. Oven mitts solves that problem.
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Dec 4, 2013 15:02
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Eegah posted:Tug is my second favorite game with Tater, just under "slap the poo poo out of the dog with an oven mitt." Sometimes when I get Artemis going while we're playing tug I can get some speed and spin her around and get liftoff. I think she thinks she's flying because as soon as I stop she nearly rips the rope out of my hands. Every few minutes while we're playing I'll ask her to drop it, and she usually does pretty good with that. I haven't played as much as usual recently though (fetch instead, since we've been out of town a lot in big yards) so I need to get back in and reinforce the drop it.
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Dec 4, 2013 15:02
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Hi, my mum recently decided that she missed having a dog after something like eight years and as such we today got a puppy. We've got everything prepared and the OP has pretty much covered everything we've been unsure of (mostly some crating stuff), although I couldn't quite find information on what to do when she cries at night, and cursory Googling leads to conflicting answers. Which is it generally accepted to be better; leaving them or going to them? I'm inclined to think that reassuring her would be the better one, especially since she's only just left her litter and mother today, but I'm no dog professional. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Dec 7, 2013 08:47
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Captain Pissweak posted:Hi, my mum recently decided that she missed having a dog after something like eight years and as such we today got a puppy. We've got everything prepared and the OP has pretty much covered everything we've been unsure of (mostly some crating stuff), although I couldn't quite find information on what to do when she cries at night, and cursory Googling leads to conflicting answers. Which is it generally accepted to be better; leaving them or going to them? I'm inclined to think that reassuring her would be the better one, especially since she's only just left her litter and mother today, but I'm no dog professional. Start with the crate close to wherever you sleep at night like next to your bed. When the pup whines, put your hand in front of the crate so it can sniff and know you are there while doing it less and less as time goes by. After a week, move it to a spot further away from your bed, preferably where it can see you. Then the hallway, then perhaps a room next door, then wherever you wanted the crate to be originally. A friend place the crate at the foot of his bed (elevated on a stool) and then the pup whined, he stuck his toes out. Heh.
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Dec 7, 2013 11:28
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My 7 month old Dobe/Rott/AmStaff mix let us sleep in until almost 8AM today. I kind of panicked when I woke up without being prompted, he ALWAYS starts whining no later than 5:30ish.
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Dec 7, 2013 15:30
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Goonicus posted:My 7 month old Dobe/Rott/AmStaff mix let us sleep in until almost 8AM today. I kind of panicked when I woke up without being prompted, he ALWAYS starts whining no later than 5:30ish. I almost got 6AM today...I woke up and was like "where's the poop  " but all was well.
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Dec 7, 2013 23:39
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Goonicus posted:My 7 month old Dobe/Rott/AmStaff mix let us sleep in until almost 8AM today. I kind of panicked when I woke up without being prompted, he ALWAYS starts whining no later than 5:30ish. 8 AM here as well. She usually wakes up with the sun so we get a little bit of extra sleep with winter in effect.
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Dec 8, 2013 03:11
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Looking at getting a Great Dane puppy early in the new year and this is one of the places we've been looking at: http://www.cmsgreatdaneranch.com/ They're not great at websites, but is there any thing that I should be wary about?
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Dec 8, 2013 06:18
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I just glanced over the site real quick, but I don't like the fact they've had six litters since August. Seriously, am I reading that right?
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Dec 8, 2013 06:24
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Yeah, looks like it's aimed for the Xmas season...
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Dec 8, 2013 06:35
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They seem to be a typical BYB just be breeding to produce pet puppies without any health testing or outside evaluation. Some of their bitches look kind of rough in the puppy photos too. Be really careful where you get a dane because when they have problems they have really really big problems. If someone says their dogs don't have any genetic problems ask for proof. If they say their dogs love everybody and have rock steady temperaments go see them and find out for yourself. Take the time to really shop around and get an awesome puppy or you're going to have a lot of heartache.
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Dec 8, 2013 07:09
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Why do most Puppy sites seem to be Angelfire era awful in terms of webdesign.
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Dec 8, 2013 07:17
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Looking at getting a Great Dane puppy early in the new year and this is one of the places we've been looking at: Hi fellow WAgoon! I agree with the others, and also their danes aren't really that good looking TBH  . I looked up the GD club of WA, but they don't seem to have a list of breeders who are members, but the national GD club has many, so I think that that would be a good place to start. Link: http://www.gdca.org/great-dane-breeders.htmlDanes are REALLY prone to health issues (as are most giant breeds  ), so going to one who health tests a TON is really important. We just had a Dane at my work get cancer and pass, and he was only 8 . After only about 2 months of being diagnosed he started vomiting blood. Super sad. So be careful.Goonicus posted:Why do most Puppy sites seem to be Angelfire era awful in terms of webdesign. Because most breeders are old ladies, or at least they have been in my experience of talking to GSD and shiba breeders, and most havent updated their site in years so its unclear if they're even still breeding. Hell, the original shiba breeder I was going to didn't even have a website, she just got by on word of mouth (she didn't have a litter for me so she ended up referring us to a friend who has dogs from her breeding program). Tl; dr old people is why On to my question: I'm getting an 8 week old shiba pup at the beginning of january. I am familiar with no pull training methods (stop walking till the leash slackens, or start walking the other way, etc), but should I be starting this on day 1, or is it ever okay for a puppy to pull? I'm assuming I should do the former but I wanted the goon hivemind opinion. I'm just so happy . Have a 3.5 week old puppy pic They've still got that dark puppy coat  (shibas are born real dark and then lighten)
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Dec 8, 2013 09:35
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Psychobabble! posted:Hi fellow WAgoon! I agree with the others, and also their danes aren't really that good looking TBH Right. I think I got a little carried away and ignored all the warning signs. Thanks. Would I be right in thinking that most of the ones listed on puppyfind will be backyard breeders? I'm actually a BC-goon, but the abundance of reasonably priced puppies in WA made me look that way. This guy http://www.daynakingreatdanes.com/Other_Breeders.html runs a mailing list (and seems about as legit as you can get), so I signed up there. I suspect this will significantly increase the cost, but as you say, it'll most likely be worth it in the long run.
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Dec 8, 2013 10:45
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Psychobabble! posted:On to my question: I'm getting an 8 week old shiba pup at the beginning of january. I am familiar with no pull training methods (stop walking till the leash slackens, or start walking the other way, etc), but should I be starting this on day 1, or is it ever okay for a puppy to pull? I'm assuming I should do the former but I wanted the goon hivemind opinion. We started from day one but with treats. Naturally we didn't expect perfection from the get-go but I don't see why it would hurt to do so. Our pup is a little over 3 months old and walks like a champion so we must have done something right.  The Easy Walking harness basically worked its magic by itself. It doesn't shape the behavior but it helps keeping the dog closer to us since he isn't always pulling like he used to. The other thing that made a world of difference is using a peanut butter gun for treats. We don't need to stop and make sure he caught the kibble and we can keep our gloves on when it's freezing.
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Dec 8, 2013 15:32
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Some of their bitches look kind of rough in the puppy photos too. I noticed that too. Those spines. Especially with Danes who can be prone to some pretty severe health issues and really need healthy joints or they'll be miserable, I would absolutely not settle for any breeder who doesn't do some thorough genetic testing.
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Dec 8, 2013 17:08
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bimmian posted:This is Seb, he's a 9 week old Golden Retriever- Oh what 2 months will do... Now weighing in at over 30lbs (up from 9), he is quite a handsome bundle of energy. He's doing quite well overall. Hasn't had an accident in at least 3 weeks, running to the back door when he needs to go. Taking to clicker training quite well too, entering his rebel phase though so listening isn't always his biggest concern. He is still very timid around people though, more so with women it seems. He is totally fine after a minute or two, and I do think he is getting better. If it were warm out, the park I walk him at would be full of people, but it isn't, so it's not.    internet inc posted:We started from day one but with treats. Naturally we didn't expect perfection from the get-go but I don't see why it would hurt to do so. Our pup is a little over 3 months old and walks like a champion so we must have done something right. What is this magical peanut butter gun? So cold here it makes any sort of outdoor training quite miserable, sounds like a great solution.
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Dec 8, 2013 18:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Right. I think I got a little carried away and ignored all the warning signs. Thanks. "reasonably priced" doesn't necessarily mean anything. Sure, there's great pups that aren't expensive but there's also ones that are going to cost you a million dollars in vet bills, especially with danes. Is money a concern? Because if it is, you may wanna hold off on getting something that's going to cost you between $50 and $100 in dog food a month (maybe more), not to mention shots and supplements and training and everything is more expensive for danes because they're so much bigger. Toys, beds, bowls, etc, etc. Puppyfind is millers and byb as far as I know, yeah. And that first breeder kinda makes me grind my teeth a bit because it doesn't look like a decent place at all but I actually kind of want one of their pups becuase it's such a nice little blue. Ahem. Have you looked into bringing the dog from the US to Canada? I know it's only a hop across the border, but they may not allow young puppies or have random embargos, etc, that you should look into. Do you know what color you want? Most dane breeders tend to stick to a certain mix (harlequins and blacks, blues and blacks, fawns and brindles, that sort of thing) so depending on what you want, I can suggest some sites for you to look at too.
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Dec 8, 2013 18:38
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bimmian posted:What is this magical peanut butter gun? So cold here it makes any sort of outdoor training quite miserable, sounds like a great solution. A frosting dispenser.
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Dec 8, 2013 18:42
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:Is money a concern? Because if it is, you may wanna hold off on getting something that's going to cost you between $50 and $100 in dog food a month (maybe more), not to mention shots and supplements and training and everything is more expensive for danes because they're so much bigger. Toys, beds, bowls, etc, etc. No, money isn't a concern. But saving say, $1500 on a puppy would still be nice  .Bringing a puppy under 3 months into Canada is cost $35. Over 3 months, they'll need a rabies vaccination or you'll have to pay $55 and have to get the dog vaccinated within 2 weeks. In both cases, they'll need a health statement from a vet. Looking mostly at blues and blacks. It's not a major deciding factor.
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Dec 8, 2013 19:19
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Spoke to these guys: http://www.jonniedanes.com/ They do have 1 puppy available, but insists on meeting first. Only problem is that we're in deadline crunch mode at work and finding a day to go to Vancouver Island will be tricky. They are also holding back 2 from the litter to themselves of which they'll keep one,(To be decided in Feb March), but they will have their ears cropped .$2500 per puppy, which seems to be the standard 'show breeder' price.
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Dec 8, 2013 21:16
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Spoke to these guys: Well, you have less chance of an aural hematoma with cropped ears and you get dopey pictures of your pup in antennas. That breeder looks pretty good, except for the weird poo poo about the holistic medicine. I'd wanna know who the parents of the litter are, though if the bitch is Story I'd probably go for it.
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Dec 8, 2013 22:03
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:Well, you have less chance of an aural hematoma with cropped ears and you get dopey pictures of your pup in antennas. They sent me a 35 page manual!. The mother is Story, can't figure out who the dad is. (show names vs 'real names'). The holistic stuff is only as far as practical (supplements) and no homeopathy bullshit. The manual include a 'med kit' list and there's plenty of real world drugs in that. Trying to figure out if we can go there Sunday, but it'll be $160 round trip on the ferry alone, with no guarantee whatsoever that we'll actually get the puppy.
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Dec 9, 2013 09:43
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Question on house training: I've had my puppy for over a little month now. She is around 16 weeks at this point. I live in an apartment on the fourth floor with no elevator. She's a pug so I have to carry her down the stairs because she doesn't like going down stairs yet (although going up she is just fine doing.) What I decided to try was getting one of those potty patch fake-grass deals, which I have in the back room of my condo near the back door to the deck. The plan is to train her to get used to going on the patch which is by the door, then ultimately move the patch outside onto the deck and train her to go outside. I use the method where I treat and praise her every time she goes on the patch. If we catch her having an accident we just carry her to the patch as quick as we can and praise her there. The first week she wasn't really getting it, but eventually I think she started to figure out the patch is where she is supposed to go. Over the next week we had to always escort her back there and watch for accidents because she would go on the pad but would also just go wherever if we weren't paying attention and brought her back there specifically. Finally, we come to this week and she has been going all the way down the hall without us to go on the patch. I think she's making really good progress and hasn't had an accident in days. Then today, I let her out over lunch and she goes right to the pad and pees. Then, 20 minutes later, I get up to put my plate in the sink and she pees again in the living room. Approximately how long does it take for a puppy to get fully house-trained? Yeah I'm posting now out of frustration, but I am wondering if maybe she is getting confused by having the pad indoors. I read from someone that dogs eventually come to consider the entire house to be "their den" after a time with positively reinforcing outdoor elimination. Should I move the pad outdoors ASAP, or is progression training like what I am doing fine for now?
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Dec 9, 2013 19:23
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