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hawaiian_robot posted:The key will unlock all the other doors from the driver's side via the central locking, but won't unlock the driver's door itself. The manual override (pull handle, turn key) can only be done on the passenger's side. I've tried resynchronising it so many times and it does nothing. The button for the lock can't be opened from the inside either, it seems to be stuck in the double lock mode. You're probably going to have to pull the door card from the inside then or cut it. It sucks but hopefully you can finagle it enough to get your arm in there to work thru the top and not have to cut it. This looks most applicable to your situation as the e32 and e34 doors are extremely similar: http://www.davintosh.com/2010/02/27/stuck-door-locks-on-a-bmw-e32-fun/
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Dec 4, 2013 14:52
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When should you replace rotors? I ordered front and rear brake pads but I'm wondering if I should do the rotors as well. What exactly should I look for to tell if the rotors are worn? I know the OEM BMW brake pads on the e36 M3 create a ton of dust, and mine have been really dusty and squeaking lately. I haven't noticed any pulsing or vibration when breaking so I assume it just needs new pads.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:26
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Measure each rotor at a few different spots with a micrometer. Your rotors have a minimum runout for thickness (wear) at 18.4mm. http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36brakesystem/ You might need to have the rotors turned if they have uneven wear or are warped in any way and after turning the rotors you might have significantly less life from the rotors.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:45
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Ok, I know we've hashed this out before, but it didn't concern me because I didn't want one. Of course now my brother-in-law wants one. An e46 330xi. This is the one he's looking at now http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4226496784.html Sounds actually really good, aside from being 1k over book. He says he's spent 5k over the last 6 months, including brand new tires. I know all the usual e46 stuff, but can anyone tell me what to look for in the awd system? It looks really clean and buying from the first owner is really nice.
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Dec 4, 2013 20:02
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Speaking of brake rotors, what's the consensus on "track pads" for a 3500lb car? I feel like physics dictates that both wear faster, but I don't want to stump for a $1200 set of rotors because I put concrete brake pads on the car. Or is that a no-win situation and I should look at a BBK? Edit: realizing this is a slippery slope, first come the brakes and track tires and wheels, then a rollbar, then you need a race seat and harnesses, and all of a sudden you have a track car you paid 70 grand for... Das Volk fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 20:25
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Deceptor101 posted:Ok, I know we've hashed this out before, but it didn't concern me because I didn't want one. Of course now my brother-in-law wants one. An e46 330xi. This is the one he's looking at now I say eff book on 10+ year old cars at this point as most of the rat trap $6k E46's out there will need $3k to get up to speed pretty quickly. Did this seller keep a spreadsheet log along with all the receipts? Will it pass a PPI with a minimum of issues? If so than the $1k is meaningless. Das Volk posted:Speaking of brake rotors, what's the consensus on "track pads" for a 3500lb car? I feel like physics dictates that both wear faster, but I don't want to stump for a $1200 set of rotors because I put concrete brake pads on the car. Or is that a no-win situation and I should look at a BBK? I love the Pagid Reds from Bavauto. More bite than stock and last as long as OEM and a bit less dust as a bonus. How many track days are you planning with your E92 M3? Just a slight pad upgrade would probably fine for street/occasional track. Since my E46 330 will be turned over to the new owner in a few days, I am already starting to sniff at all the 2011 E90 M3's popping up off their 3 year leases.........and my F10 535 still sits in the garage, status undetermined. 
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 20:31
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Das Volk posted:Edit: realizing this is a slippery slope, first come the brakes and track tires and wheels, then a rollbar, then you need a race seat and harnesses, and all of a sudden you have a track car you paid 70 grand for...
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Dec 4, 2013 21:40
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Viper_3000 posted:You're probably going to have to pull the door card from the inside then or cut it. It sucks but hopefully you can finagle it enough to get your arm in there to work thru the top and not have to cut it. Thanks, all the googling didn't turn up with anything nearly as useful as that. The vinyl insert in the door panel is coming off anyway, might just remove that insert and cut away.
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Dec 4, 2013 22:00
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Keyser S0ze posted:I say eff book on 10+ year old cars at this point as most of the rat trap $6k E46's out there will need $3k to get up to speed pretty quickly. Did this seller keep a spreadsheet log along with all the receipts? Will it pass a PPI with a minimum of issues? If so than the $1k is meaningless.
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Dec 4, 2013 22:18
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KBB seems to be pretty useless for BMWs, when I was looking for an M3 the prices where drastically lower than what you would realistically find/pay. If you hunt around for a bit you'll get a good idea what the car goes for and what makes a specific car a good deal. (e.g. having the cooling system refreshed is a huge bonus)
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Dec 4, 2013 23:53
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KBB is pretty useless for any car that is "desirable" and has any sort of enthusiast following, especially once the car in question is more than 10ish years old. That's the point where the quality of care and maintenance really starts to differentiate a good specimen from a bad IMO, and where a well-maintained example can very easily fetch a lot more than KBB. And then there are pretty large regional variations as well.
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Dec 4, 2013 23:56
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Yesterday I bought an E34 1992 525i Touring for pretty cheap, knowing that it had some potential coolant system and electrical issues. My reasoning being that Tourings are uncommon, it has a clean title, and worse comes to worse I could make my money back easy reselling the car or parting it out. (It came with a stupid loud exhaust, Dinan intake, smiley headlights and rimzzz.) So far what I know is that the power steering won't work while i'm sitting at a stop unless I rev the engine, the battery drains, and I get the Coolant Level message and the temperature needle goes up while driving it. Also, there's a belt squeal at low speed. When I bought the car, I figured worst case it might have a head gasket problem. So far the oil and coolant look good. I get the Coolant Level message even when the reservoir is full which is weird because isn't the sensor supposed to be in the reservoir itself? What I'm thinking the main problem at this point is probably the accessory belt or pulleys or one of the attached accessories. I'm leaning towards water pump. Tonight the battery drained while driving it around town at slow speeds and wouldn't start even with a jump from another vehicle so I've got the battery charging. It read 11.75v when I took it out which I think tells me that it was drained enough to not start the car but it's still probably good as long as I charge it up and don't keep abusing it? I had the water pump go on my 530i a while back but it was a catastrophic failure where the pump seized to the point of stalling the engine while I was driving down the road. Could the pump fail in a gradual enough way as to be giving me the symptoms I'm having with this new car? TLDR: I bought an E34 525iT and think that the water pump or something along the accessory belt is causing PS, overheating, and battery issues all at once. Edmund Sparkler fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 04:47
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How can I diagnose warm start issues? My e30 (325e) when warm will either rev right up 2000rpm for a second before settling or it'll act like it won't start and as soon as I disengage the starter it fires and lugs it's way up from 0 to 700 or so. I'll have some time in the morning to screw around with this thing, I was going to start by cleaning out the idle control valve. Do you think I'm going in the right direction?
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Dec 5, 2013 05:49
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FIRST TIME posted:
Yep, thats exactly it.
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Dec 5, 2013 06:11
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Guinness posted:KBB is pretty useless for any car that is "desirable" and has any sort of enthusiast following, especially once the car in question is more than 10ish years old. That's the point where the quality of care and maintenance really starts to differentiate a good specimen from a bad IMO, and where a well-maintained example can very easily fetch a lot more than KBB. And then there are pretty large regional variations as well. kbb on my 540 is like $5500, i paid a grand, i doubt i could get more than 4k out of it. Also, pretty much everybody else here with a 540 needs to stop posting. I don't need to be worrying that any part of the car will blow up at any moment, I already own a subaru.
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Dec 5, 2013 08:04
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two_beer_bishes posted:How can I diagnose warm start issues? My e30 (325e) when warm will either rev right up 2000rpm for a second before settling or it'll act like it won't start and as soon as I disengage the starter it fires and lugs it's way up from 0 to 700 or so. Putting your foot on the accelerator a bit while starting it will do pretty much the same thing as the IACV, so try that. This could be a speed/ref sensor issue as well. Sometimes they start acting crappy when they are heat loaded as the slowly die. I've taken to slowly dumping a bottle of water over them when they're hot and exhibiting the problem. If the problem goes away you found the culprit.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:23
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Powershift posted:kbb on my 540 is like $5500, i paid a grand, i doubt i could get more than 4k out of it. 540i's are pretty sturdy cars (E39). They have their share of issues just like any car, but I wouldn't actively worry about it. Just keep up with the maintenance and it will be fine. M62s, when looked after, will run for loving ever. Better than the SOHC 2.5 Donkey Show knock box.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:37
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FIRST TIME posted:Yesterday I bought an E34 1992 525i Touring for pretty cheap, The first and easiest thing is to check the belt routing and make sure its correct. I missed getting the belt underneath the top idler pulley and that was enough where the car would drive fine for 20 miles then the temp would creep up and voltage would start dropping.
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Dec 5, 2013 16:41
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Motronic posted:Putting your foot on the accelerator a bit while starting it will do pretty much the same thing as the IACV, so try that. I'll try that, thanks. The speed/ref sensor you're talking about is the one near the crank pulley?
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Dec 5, 2013 16:49
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two_beer_bishes posted:The speed/ref sensor you're talking about is the one near the crank pulley? The speed sensor is on the bell housing under the starter. If it's 89-ish+ it's going to have a crank position sensor instead. This will be near the AC compressor on the exhaust side on the front of the motor.
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Dec 5, 2013 17:53
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Das Volk posted:Speaking of brake rotors, what's the consensus on "track pads" for a 3500lb car? I feel like physics dictates that both wear faster, but I don't want to stump for a $1200 set of rotors because I put concrete brake pads on the car. Or is that a no-win situation and I should look at a BBK? PFC06 if you can still find them in your size. I kow many BMW folks who moved on the 08 after they couldn't get 06 any more and they are not happy with it. Hawk or Pagid seems to be where they're ending up.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:17
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Powershift posted:kbb on my 540 is like $5500, i paid a grand, i doubt i could get more than 4k out of it. I'm not sure I would quite class a 540 as a KBB rule breaker. They're sweet cars (especially a 6-speed sport), but the enthusiast following for them is pretty niche compared to something like an M3, 1M, S2000, Miata, etc. that all have serious enthusiast communities. A really good condition 10+ year old M3 or Miata almost certainly can fetch more than KBB. I bought and sold my NA for more than KBB.
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Dec 5, 2013 19:04
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Gave up and took my e46 to the shop for the vacuum leak I couldn't find. Valve Cover Gasket. The one thing I was hoping it wasn't. Whatever. I'm happy to pay those dudes to fix it, so that I don't have to spend two weekends doing it. They're also gonna change the tensioners and belt for me while they are in there. It's nice having an honest shop to fall back on when the DIY route fails/gets past my skill set.
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Dec 5, 2013 19:41
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Guinness posted:I'm not sure I would quite class a 540 as a KBB rule breaker. They're sweet cars (especially a 6-speed sport), but the enthusiast following for them is pretty niche compared to something like an M3, 1M, S2000, Miata, etc. that all have serious enthusiast communities. A really good condition 10+ year old M3 or Miata almost certainly can fetch more than KBB. I bought and sold my NA for more than KBB. ...........and my E46 with 135k miles went for 35% over "blue book" since it was extremely well sorted and maintained like a show pony. A beater car sitting outside and getting thrashed with no no records and no maintenance beyond the bare minimum to get it to start and drive 10 feet will be valued accordingly.
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Dec 5, 2013 19:42
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Motronic posted:The speed sensor is on the bell housing under the starter. If it's a 325e it should be 86 or older since all the super etas are just 325 with no letter afterward.
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Dec 5, 2013 20:00
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Yeah it's an 85. I ran out of time before work today to try that, it's on the list for tomorrow now.
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Dec 5, 2013 20:10
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I've posted about this before but my 325e had all sorts of intermittent issues and it turned out to be related to the oxygen sensor.
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Dec 5, 2013 20:12
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E30 - also check your starting/main relay. When they start to fail you get some really strange intermittant issues with starting, running and idling. When you get a replacement MAKE SURE you get the right one or at least one that functions the same so you don't spend an entire day tracing wires only to discover the replacement relay was wrong.
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Dec 5, 2013 21:25
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Motronic posted:The speed sensor is on the bell housing under the starter. '01 330i here. If you try to replace this, please do not do what I did and strip the Torx head. There is no way to get anything in that space that will pull it out. Mine is still in there. I think I may have enough room to get something at it when I replace my vanos. If not, I may have to pull the rad to get at it. Or have my buddy come over with his welding kit. gently caress.
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Dec 5, 2013 21:31
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NitroSpazzz posted:E30 - also check your starting/main relay. When they start to fail you get some really strange intermittant issues with starting, running and idling. When you get a replacement MAKE SURE you get the right one or at least one that functions the same so you don't spend an entire day tracing wires only to discover the replacement relay was wrong. Seconding the general statement about making sure you have the correct relay when you replace one. My first E34 would drain the battery constantly and in the end it turned out that some chucklefuck put the wrong relay in for the fuel pump so it was always on. I ended up digging the correct replacement relay out of a pile of junk in the backseat of a junkyard car because forget paying the $20+ that O'Reilly's wanted for a new one, special ordered.
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Dec 5, 2013 22:18
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FIRST TIME posted:Seconding the general statement about making sure you have the correct relay when you replace one. My first E34 would drain the battery constantly and in the end it turned out that some chucklefuck put the wrong relay in for the fuel pump so it was always on. I ended up digging the correct replacement relay out of a pile of junk in the backseat of a junkyard car because forget paying the $20+ that O'Reilly's wanted for a new one, special ordered. That's the worst part, this was an Advance Autoparts $20 special order relay. Brother swore it was the right one and that couldn't be the issue until I made a couple jumpers and it started right up then I taught him how to read relay diagrams and popped the cover to show him how they work. I think a relay is causing the drain in the 928 but I haven't started digging yet, not looking forward to it.
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Dec 5, 2013 23:30
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SlapActionJackson posted:PFC06 if you can still find them in your size. I kow many BMW folks who moved on the 08 after they couldn't get 06 any more and they are not happy with it. Hawk or Pagid seems to be where they're ending up. I run DTC-60s which are a bit overkill for a 3200lb M3 on street tires, but they'd probably be good on a heavier car. PFCs are nice but they are so loving expensive.
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Dec 6, 2013 00:10
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Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on a 335i. I'm going to check this one out: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/4171772752.html Supposedly has 'everything but heated seats'. His asking price is way high according to KBB, Edmunds TMV, NADA. Those all put it around 20-23k valuation. If everything checks out, what do you guys think would be a fair price? Edit: Looks like autocheck shows a front end collision in Feb 2013. If its just a cosmetic fender bender, whatever. What should I look for? S.W.G. fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Dec 6, 2013 |
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Dec 6, 2013 00:20
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the ad posted:$25.9k S.W.G. posted:price is way high according to KBB, Edmunds TMV, NADA. Those all put it around 20-23k valuation. Another car.
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Dec 6, 2013 00:31
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S.W.G. posted:Hey guys, 2nd owner N54/55 vehicle in a collision? For 30? RUN.
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Dec 6, 2013 02:00
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Yep, it was in a front end collision:
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Dec 6, 2013 02:08
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Ask him for the carfax he has. It's probably from before the collision. Unless he has pictures proving that it was a 1mph collision into a bush and he got a new bumper, stay away. You don't know if it was a minor fender bender or if it was a major collision that could have tweaked the frame.
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Dec 6, 2013 02:11
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Yeah if that guy was upfront about that accident I would say "proceed with caution", but he lied about it so move on. On that note, you might be shocked to find out just how expensive accidents can be in a BMW. Around where I am, something as trivial as replacing a rear bumper skin is a $1500-2000 touch when you factor paint and whatnot. Even my minor parking lot accident a couple years ago cost my insurance company nearly $6000.
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Dec 6, 2013 02:12
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MrChips posted:On that note, you might be shocked to find out just how expensive accidents can be High quality bodywork on anything is expensive. BMWs obviously aren't going to be the cheapest to work on, but a Honda or Toyota tend to also be very expensive to fix properly even after a minor incident. People are always shocked that something like a new bumper cover, assorted bits, and a quality paint job is like $1000 minimum regardless of vehicle. Maybe the cheapest economy cars aren't as bad, but even regular old Accords, Camries, Legacies and whatnot will cost a pretty penny to fix. As far as premium brands go, from the couple people I know that own or work in body shops, BMWs are actually some of the better cars to work on.
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Dec 6, 2013 02:18
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S.W.G. posted:Hey guys, You should be looking at the fact that he has no pictures of the front bumper, and the car has a front end collision on record. That and the fact he's asking way too much for the car and isn't disclosing the front end damage. It's probably not even worth going to look at.
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Dec 6, 2013 04:29
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