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S-Alpha posted:Holy poo poo, how did I not hear that Bandai reissued that web-exclusive Banshee. I thought I missed the chance forever when I didn't order it back in early 2012. Sigh, too expensive, and too "in the US", though I'd really like one of the Unicorns with the green psychoframe. Maybe I'll paint the HG.
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Dec 3, 2013 16:08
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(Thank Christ for holiday bonuses.)
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| # ? May 25, 2024 19:59 |
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BizarroAzrael posted:Sigh, too expensive, and too "in the US", though I'd really like one of the Unicorns with the green psychoframe. Maybe I'll paint the HG. Next year they're releasing a HG Full Armor in Destroy Mode, so at the very least that'll have the green frame, from the looks of things there won't be a green frame Banshee, though.
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Dec 3, 2013 17:09
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So this is how I spent my Thanksgiving break.  I may want to redo the silver detailing on the inner frame as the clear coat dulled it a lot, but maybe it's for the best so they don't attract too much attention, I dunno. I wish I had a better camera than my lovely iphone, as the details I do never show up in photos. I actually tried panel lining this kit in red and brown instead of black and grey, so the effect is subtle and doesn't really show up well on camera. I'm glad I got that LED though, it looks pretty badass. And the monoeye is pretty much invisible without it turned on.
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Dec 4, 2013 03:32
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    Coming together now. Sucks that I won't be able to get a full hangar assembled until Spring, but between this and the partial hangar that comes with PG GP01, i'll have a satisfactory good start on this.
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Dec 4, 2013 13:46
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Wow, I've been looking for a Gunpla thread for a while. Didn't think I'd ever find it and these questions wouldn't fit in the warhams or DIY threads. Anyhow, I've been looking to get into doing gunpla kits for a while and I was looking at reviews of the BanDai Macross transforming kits. Unfortunately, the bad reviews I've seen were of the VF-1A red version, and while I'm here in Hong Kong I can acquire the new VF-1S roy fokker version. People complained about loose joints and sagging parts. Was the kit improved at all between the two versions? It doesn't look great for fighter or battroid mode but that's why there's Hasegawa. It looks decent in Gerwalk mode which is what I wanted from such a kit. Does anyone have any experience with either valkyries and if they hold up in Gerwalk mode? If it sucks, are there any companies that do decent Gerwalk mode valkyries? I've only ever seen battroid and fighters and wondered why the market didn't ask for gerwalk mode - that's pretty much what makes macross unique! Also, I'm glad there's a RG scale now. The HG kits always looked too simple for me as I grew up on doing warhammer and military models. PG/MG kits were too expensive and large so the new RG kits are perfect. I just got a strike freedom and can't wait to start painting it!
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Dec 4, 2013 17:07
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Welcome to the world of Gunpla. Feel free to ask any questions about good model kits to buy, etc.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:16
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I know the Roy Fokker custom added at least one piece to make the battroid mode a bit more stable, but I think pretty much everything else is the same. If you want to just display it in Gerwalk though, it's easy enough to fix any looseness. And have fun with that RG SF; it looks like a fiddly mess to me, especially those wings.
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Dec 4, 2013 17:23
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I'm grumpy that the TV color schemes for valkyries are so much less common than the DYRL schemes.
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Dec 4, 2013 18:07
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BlitzBlast posted:I know the Roy Fokker custom added at least one piece to make the battroid mode a bit more stable, but I think pretty much everything else is the same. If you want to just display it in Gerwalk though, it's easy enough to fix any looseness. If it's anything like the RG Freedom, the wings should be pretty stable and easy to adjust. They're a bugger to get everything single wing just  right while you're posing them, but they'll sit still once you've got them in place.
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Dec 5, 2013 01:17
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Thanks! Is the type of plastic used still fused with typical testor's plastic glue or will I have to use pins and CA glue? I don't plan on using them for anything besides display pieces so gluing them and losing future posing possibilities isn't a problem with me. Something I've always wondered is why the warhammer style of NMM, OSL, and exaggerated blending/fading isn't popular with the gunpla crowd. Something like this: http://www.coolminiornot.com/346480?browseid=7435403 or http://www.coolminiornot.com/335819?browseid=7435403 for comparison. Is it just a different taste in aesthetics? I thought maybe it wouldn't look good in that scale but the Tau riptide in that picture is about 15cm high. I plan on giving these models similar paintjobs. Is there a blog somewhere that specifically has this style of painting?
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Dec 5, 2013 04:13
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Yes, plastic cement still works with Gunpla. The pla stands for plastic after all. You're probably better off just topcoating them though, since that makes them more stable without sacrificing mobility. And there are people who do shading on their kit. Really, it's more that a lot of people just don't paint their kits at all. And those who do generally don't go for advanced techniques; in America, the general design aesthetic is nice, clean builds.
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Dec 5, 2013 04:22
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So anyone that's ordered from robot4less do they actually send you an email when they ship your poo poo or do they just go "hey we got your order, that's cool. we'll ship it soon"
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Dec 5, 2013 04:55
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You'll get an e-mail with shipping info. They're a bit behind due to order volume though. Or you could be like I've done in the past and forget to check to make sure the whole order is in stock and get stuck waiting for the one backordered item.
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Dec 5, 2013 05:04
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I kinda hope that they actually have some of my items in stock, I think I read somewhere that they listed all their items as in stock for this sale, and a couple of the sets I bought are usually out of stock elsewhere.
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Dec 5, 2013 05:07
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BlitzBlast posted:Yes, plastic cement still works with Gunpla. The pla stands for plastic after all. You're probably better off just topcoating them though, since that makes them more stable without sacrificing mobility. I'm looking at this GBWC site right now and it looks like you can still do weathering techniques and blending without any detriment to your score. However, looking at my country's GBWC , there's praise for kitbashing tons of crap on your models as well as criticism in the comments. I don't know anyone in the Filipino gunpla community and my cousins aren't hardcore about it, but is it different from country to country? I see the simple Zaku design won second in that NA region but the first place model looks like it has a ton of crap added to the model. I know entries and what's en vogue can change from year to year but is there a general trend to what's in for competition purposes? Would warhammer-style painting be acceptable? For example, entry two here is mostly freehand on a 28mm model. Now, I'm glad the ork won in that particular competition because sometimes it gets ridiculous in the warhams community with how much freehand design is considered popular when it obfuscates the subject a lot of times. But, if I were to try that in a gunpla competition, would it be discounted out of hand just for how busy it looks? Something like this which is ~50mm but is a good example of how the busy look of freehand gets out of hand in warhammer.
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Dec 5, 2013 05:20
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The Filipino Gunpla modeling community is infamous for throwing on as much poo poo as possibly they can on a model. Meanwhile, that model with "a ton of crap added to [it]" is actually just a repaint of this thing with parts taken from this guy and some flourishes (the "armor plates" on the shoulders, skirt armor, and ankles and I want to say the sword) taken from some chinese resin kit. Which sounds complex, but notice how the end result is still pretty clean looking and not a visual abomination like the Filipino champion's build. EDIT: Looked at some more pictures and looks like it has this guy's wings too. These aren't strict rules or anything; there are modelers in the Phillipines who like clean builds as much as there are modelers in America who like crazy abominations. It's just a general aesthetic thing people have noticed. So don't worry so much about going for points and just build. Judging model kits is hard anyways so most judges just look for flaws. As long as all your nubs are clean and the paintjob is good, you'll probably be fine. Oh, and pose your kit! One time a friend of mine won what would have otherwise been a tie because his opponent didn't bother to pose his kit and just had it stand there like a doofus. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 06:25
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Fox of Stone posted:
Jesus Christ those kits are heinous. Now I want to see what their cars/scooters look like. A kits with no visible nubs or mold lines, fully painted and properly scaled shading gets you far in the US. A unique paint scheme and one or two custom parts is enough to place. Shading is very easy for gundams and usually unnecessary. They are big enough to cast their own shadows and dont need to fake it like miniatures.  
Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 06:46
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BlitzBlast posted:Compared to the average vKa kit, your decals are fine. I dunno about your panel lining though; it could just be the shadow, but the lines on the torso look dalong thick. Though if that's your preference then that's fine too. Thank you, I was trying to get a good combination between panel line depth and width. I agree, It didn't look very dark before painting but after putting some ink in it, it looks quite deep. Bimmi posted:Can't help but notice the V Gundam Shai-Tarn in the background. This man has good taste in bad model kits.  Got the purdy pics up and running. I noticed with painted kits, joints get tighter with the layers on paint on top, so the Delta Kai now can hold up that big rear end shield with just one arm instead of it slowly dropping down 1 millimeter a minute.   Delta_Gundam_Kai1 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai2 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai6 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai23 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai28 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai15 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai35 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai37 by df0084, on Flickr  Delta_Gundam_Kai33 by df0084, on Flickr
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Dec 5, 2013 09:22
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Yeah those are some thick panel lines. Next time you might want to try using gray instead of black; the contrast is much less significant, even if you make the lines too thick.
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Dec 5, 2013 09:39
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So is there a recommended brand of glue? This testors rubber cement for plastic model kits just isn't saving my precious red frame.
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Dec 5, 2013 20:15
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Same Stuff Professional Plastic Welder
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Dec 5, 2013 23:33
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I ordered a bottle, but until then I was able to at least get it standing with rubber cement and I don't think it looks super terrible.
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Dec 6, 2013 05:30
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I'm a big fan of the Tamiya extra thin cement since it has a brush applicator, but I normally just use a Testors bottle of non-toxic cement that has the long pointed nozzle. Stay away from the crap in the toothpaste-looking container.
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Dec 6, 2013 11:25
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Dragon Momoko MG Tallgeese III:  
TaurusOxford fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Dec 6, 2013 |
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Dec 6, 2013 17:08
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Talgeese III didn't come out official, right? God drat, that looks great
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Dec 6, 2013 18:34
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To anyone who pre-ordered MG Sazabi vKa: I hope you like shipping fees. 
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Dec 6, 2013 19:07
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Holy hell that thing's massive... drat shame my neurosis demands that I get the HGUC of the Sazabi.
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Dec 6, 2013 20:04
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BlitzBlast posted:I hope you like shipping fees. Bring it on, I say. I am so amped for this kit it's insane, my first MG back after years of not building models at all (having a disposable income again is awesome) was the Nu v. Ka, so having this to match up is going to be great. (Not for my wallet  )
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Dec 7, 2013 00:42
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BlitzBlast posted:To anyone who pre-ordered MG Sazabi vKa: Surely it's just a tiny woman?
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Dec 7, 2013 02:38
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Whew. I think I got that tiny plastic shaving glued back into place. That was frustrating, but a good lesson in how sharp the GOD HAND 大CUTTERS are, and to be careful with them. need to get new cement though gently caress opening this testors it's a pain muike fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Dec 7, 2013 |
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Dec 7, 2013 02:54
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I swear by Tamiya's plastic cement just because it's so convenient to use. Screw on cap with an attached brush? Sign me up.
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Dec 7, 2013 04:26
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Do they use a narrower brush than the testors? I want something with more precision.
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Dec 7, 2013 04:37
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muike posted:Do they use a narrower brush than the testors? I want something with more precision. The Testors I had was the one with the really small metal nozzle that looked like an injection needle.
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Dec 7, 2013 04:40
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That's the plastic bottle stuff yeah? I have a glass jar of the stuff.
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Dec 7, 2013 04:57
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The tamiya thin cements' brush is about 1mm wide and made of (some fibre) that flicks back to its original shape quite well. It's quite accurate. Better than a nozzle style applicator, anyway. A single bottle will also last you years. BlitzBlast posted:I hope you like shipping fees. I live to pay shipping fees. Gunpla models that come afterwards are just a bonus
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Dec 7, 2013 05:03
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muike posted:That's the plastic bottle stuff yeah? I have a glass jar of the stuff. Yeah, I dunno if I just had too high of expectations but when my red frame broke it wouldn't keep it held together. The slightest touch would shoot that leg off. I had to coat it with ludicrous amounts to make it stick. I'm ordering a bottle of what was recommended above in hopes I can make it a bit more solid. I don't expect movement, just not for it to fall off.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:13
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What were you using exactly?
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Dec 7, 2013 05:22
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Bimmi posted:What were you using exactly? Testors rubber cement for plastic model kits. I left it to dry for an hour after the first coating and it was wobbly as all get out.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:25
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First rule of fixing broken joints with glue (without a pin) in models: Do not gently caress with it for 24 hours. Second rule of fixing broken joints in models: Do not gently caress with it for 24 hours.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:27
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| # ? May 25, 2024 19:59 |
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Ignimbrite posted:First rule of fixing broken joints with glue (without a pin) in models: You learn something new every day.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:30
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