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I should be buying a 2006+ S40 in January if my bonus comes through. I'm aware of the issues but the one I'm most concerned about is the teves ABS pump fault with the fix being £1200 (apparently). Is the ABS pump easy to find if I were to bring a torch and look in the engine bay? If its not a Bosch unit should I try and get a sizeable discount off of the car or just walk away?
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Dec 5, 2013 22:10
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Cancelbot posted:I should be buying a 2006+ S40 in January if my bonus comes through. I'm aware of the issues but the one I'm most concerned about is the teves ABS pump fault with the fix being £1200 (apparently). Is the ABS pump easy to find if I were to bring a torch and look in the engine bay? The Bosch units poo poo themselves too. Mine did. EDIT: And the ABS still works when the fault appears, it's the stability and traction control that dies. I've driven my V50 for three years now with non-working DSTC.
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Dec 6, 2013 00:10
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Cancelbot posted:Is the ABS pump easy to find if I were to bring a torch and look in the engine bay? There are some instructions for how to do this replacement full with pictures. The pump:  Location: 
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Dec 6, 2013 00:21
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Terrible Robot posted:Well the AC compressor pulley on the 240 seized this morning. Since it never worked anyway it wouldn't be a big deal except it took out the power steering in the process since the pump is only driven by the compressor. I drove a lumina for a year without power steering and it wasn't too bad but this car is a drat workout once you get past 20degrees off center. You should be able to run a belt from the crank pulley to the PS pump. Tensioning it is kinda a bear and requires a belt of a very specific length but I've seen people do it.
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Dec 6, 2013 01:55
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Nidhg00670000 posted:The Bosch units poo poo themselves too. Mine did. Thanks! I think I'll buy one and a used car/extended warranty then, hopefully from Volvo themselves. Some car dealers are apparently removing the DSTC light anyway.
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Dec 6, 2013 09:43
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mafoose posted:You should be able to run a belt from the crank pulley to the PS pump. Tensioning it is kinda a bear and requires a belt of a very specific length but I've seen people do it. Confirming my 1983 245gl had the A/C condenser and compressor removed and rebelted in the garage. Measure it with string.
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Dec 6, 2013 23:15
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Cool, I wasn't sure if I would have to do something about the pulleys being a little offset from each other or not, good to know it'll work. Did some googling and found a belt size (Bosch 253 11A1055) that the guy claims worked on his 240 when he bypassed the A/C so I'm gonna give that a shot tomorrow.
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Dec 7, 2013 07:13
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7NKwDBGSBI
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Dec 9, 2013 03:38
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Terrible Robot posted:Well the AC compressor pulley on the 240 seized this morning. Since it never worked anyway it wouldn't be a big deal except it took out the power steering in the process since the pump is only driven by the compressor. I drove a lumina for a year without power steering and it wasn't too bad but this car is a drat workout once you get past 20degrees off center. I got one that you can have for the price of shipping since I feel bad that your quads didn't work out.
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Dec 9, 2013 06:01
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Gents, I have been eyeing this car for a few months now: What do I need to know about these? I'm considering taking it out for a spin. The plastic doorguards/bumper guards are a little grayed but otherwise it looks great on the outside. Interior has a couple rough-looking spots. I've done a little research, and the only thing that really scares me is the cost to replace shocks. Anything else I should be concerned about with this? The seller is a highly-reputable local independent shop that specializes in Volvos and Subarus.
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Dec 15, 2013 22:52
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angryhampster posted:Gents, I have been eyeing this car for a few months now: I'd keep looking. $10k for a TWICE OVER salvage is in TT territory. VinCheck posted:VIN: YV1SJ52Y542398784 has been identified as a vehicle listed in the VINCheck Salvage Records.
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Dec 15, 2013 23:02
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OUCH THANK YOU for saving me that headache. There's another dealer in town that has an '06 S60R for $13,900. It's an auto though so I'll probably pass.
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Dec 15, 2013 23:47
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Leroy Diplowski posted:I got one that you can have for the price of shipping since I feel bad that your quads didn't work out. Thanks for the offer, but I'm just going to run a longer belt and bypass the compressor entirely. And I said before, it was entirely my gently caress-up on the quads, I didn't research it. Still happy I got them.
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Dec 16, 2013 00:07
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So, Ive got a maybe dumb question.. Ive got a 97 850R wagon. The heater core was leaking, so, I replaced it. Ive done it before on other cars, and am pretty comfortable with the job. I used a cheaper, non OEM core, thinking it wouldnt much matter. Well. It all went fine, or so it seemed. Its not leaking any more from what i can tell. I havent opened it up yet, but thats my next step. Ive looked under it, where it was leaking before, and its still dry. Im getting a nasty, greasy filmy fog collecting on the windshield. It looks like what Id expect from a bad heater core, but since I just replaced it, Id really like that to be not true. Is there anything else that could cause the fog im getting? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 03:41
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My girlfriend drives a 97 850glt that had a heater core at 110k or so (it's in the 130s now) and I suspect her window fogginess is just film and grease. FWIW it sounds exactly like you just described. I just have to get out and elbow grease it with some foremost and paper towels to confirm. i will report back tonight.
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Dec 16, 2013 17:48
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angryhampster posted:Gents, I have been eyeing this car for a few months now: That R has been going around for well over a year now, nobody's buying it. They repaired it with the wrong front bumper (regular S60 bumper) so it immediately puts off anyone who looks at it.
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Dec 16, 2013 18:10
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skylineboy08 posted:My girlfriend drives a 97 850glt that had a heater core at 110k or so (it's in the 130s now) and I suspect her window fogginess is just film and grease. FWIW it sounds exactly like you just described. I just have to get out and elbow grease it with some foremost and paper towels to confirm. i will report back tonight. Yeah, i clean it all the time, but it just comes right back. It diddnt do this with the old heater core, even when it leaked.. could it just be a cheap core does that sometimes? It smelled for a while, too, right after i put it in. Like, new heater burning smell. Took weeks to go away..
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Dec 16, 2013 19:52
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hedgegnome posted:Yeah, i clean it all the time, but it just comes right back. It diddnt do this with the old heater core, even when it leaked.. could it just be a cheap core does that sometimes? It smelled for a while, too, right after i put it in. Like, new heater burning smell. Took weeks to go away.. I'm going out on a limb as I've never done a heater core in an 850 but how close is it to any sort of wiring/duct work. Is everything properly secured or is 190 degree heater core laying against plastic bundles and pieces or improperly secured (please don't take this critically, I'm not calling you stupid I promise  ). I'm in the camp with Volvo parts of if it's not Volvo or Volvo OEM (Sachs, Bosch or other OE manufacturers) I don't use it. As much as Volvo tends to switch and tweak in intermediate years I found it problematic to try and get JAGA parts for any of the 240s we owned and I am continuing the trend with her 850. Yes it can be more expensive but I don't minds the higher cost on something we plan on keeping.
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Dec 17, 2013 21:34
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Further to my previous questions. I've spotted this; http://www.penninemotorhouse.co.uk/used-cars/volvo-s40-t5-sport-4dr-bradford-201309148793574 or http://www.sussexspecialistcars.co.uk/used-cars/volvo-s40-t5-se-sport-4dr-geartronic-east-grinstead-201311069714057 I'm aware of the vast distances between them, but for a T5 I'd be willing to travel. The first one seems too cheap and it's tickling the cambelt interval so I'm a bit wary of that. The second one seems more reasonable and has a few more toys (automatic!) and is probably the one I'll go for but; am I making a mistake thinking these cheaper cars are a good deal? I don't have any issues towards mileage as Volvos wear them well and their typical owner seems to not be a total nutcase with them. My logic with all of this is that people in the UK are losing interest in saloon (sedan) shapes and thirsty petrols are being replaced with tiny displacement econoboxes which reduces desirability and therefore, price. Cancelbot fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 23, 2013 23:54
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My 1992 940 Turbo somehow managed to lose some or most of its coolant without overheating. Pouring more coolant into the overflow tank doesn't cause the level to change, it just levels out somewhere in the hose beneath the overflow tank. There are no immediately obvious places where it's leaking (no puddles or streams come out when I pour more in.) The only place I see any coolant is on top of the water pump, which to me indicates that something isn't sealing or that the pump itself is going bad, which would be weird since I put a new HEPU pump in within the last 10,000 miles. I've checked the radiator hoses, heater hoses, and the oil cooler water hoses for leaks and I haven't found anything. The heat was working fine throughout the last major drive I had the car on (~2 hours.) There is no milkshake on the dipstick or in the overflow tank. The interior carpeting is dry and there is no coolant smell in the interior. My current inclinations are water pump or head gasket, but I would appreciate any ideas.
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Dec 31, 2013 22:13
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Redblock. Coolant and Oil are Optional.
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Dec 31, 2013 23:08
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Got my giant-wheeled 960 back on the road:  Gotta paint it and put a bigass V8 in it.
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Jan 1, 2014 06:22
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Good looking 960, there. Might be going to look at a 96 850R wagon in a couple of days. I know all of the normal stuff to look for on a used car, but is there anything special to look at with an 850R? 164k miles, recent timing belt and water pump, from photos the engine bay appears to show some modification (different intercooler piping). I'm very familiar with the 700/900 cars, but I've never worked on a FWD Volvo before. Is this thing going to be a money pit and send me to the poor house?
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Jan 1, 2014 13:59
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bandman posted:Good looking 960, there. The modified intercooler piping is probably a (pointless) reverse flow kit. If you're familiar with the costs associated with the 7/9 cars, it won't be much more expensive to own, but if a lot of maintenance was deferred by the PO it might need a sizable investment up front to get it back on its feet. Make sure it doesn't smoke at idle after being driven for a while and that there isn't smoke being blown out the dipstick tube. If you notice the former the valve stem seals need replaced, which is a really involved repair and expensive if you don't DIY. If you notice the latter, the PCV system is probably clogged and in need of replacement; the parts are about $150 and it'll take an afternoon to install them if you DIY. To be safe I'd budget about $1K for new suspension parts, ignition components, and other basic maintenance stuff.
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Jan 1, 2014 18:34
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this fucker this fucker 
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Jan 3, 2014 04:14
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must be the time of year for fucker failure
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Jan 3, 2014 |
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Jan 3, 2014 05:45
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poo poo, I should check my fuckers.
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Jan 3, 2014 06:12
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Is "Fucker" the generally accepted term for that hose, like the Hose From Hell on SW20 MR2 turbos?
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Jan 3, 2014 13:34
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It's kind of lovely out right now (blizzard warning on the highway) so I'm not really tempted to drive and look at this car right now, but it seems tempting for the price if the weather settles down.quote:Currently not running. Coolant leak from the intercooler to the engine body after -30's. Good for parts. Heated seats, stereo, tires & rims (Brand new full spare on rim) no body rust. New starter, battery, Mass Airflow Sensor. $500 OBO. My impression is that these things have a water to air intercooler and a coolant line has burst which keeps the car from running because it will overheat. Is that correct, or am I setting myself up for a future of changing out fuckers after a very expensive tow back home? I also thought these were strictly air-air intercoolers. Is it like the Subarus where a coolant line just kind of runs alongside the intercooler because it was a convenient place to put it? 
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jan 3, 2014 |
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Jan 3, 2014 18:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's kind of lovely out right now (blizzard warning on the highway) so I'm not really tempted to drive and look at this car right now, but it seems tempting for the price if the weather settles down. I have no idea what they're referring to, honestly. The intercooler is an air-to-air unit, so there's no way for it to leak anything except pressure. The turbo itself is water-cooled, so maybe there's a leak at one of the fittings on the turbo or at the block. If you can get a clear idea of what's actually wrong and there's nothing else that's catastrophically messed up about it, $500 is probably a steal if you're willing to put some work in.
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Jan 3, 2014 19:08
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There's also an oil-to-water heat exchanger that cools the turbo oil. Maybe they know less than they think they do, and it's just a radiator leak? Edit: that is assuming late-model 740s are set up like my 940 (which is the car with the burst fucker). atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 01:02
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I'm 95% done with my engine swap and auto -> manual swap on my 92 740. It's an absolutely riot to drive now. I've got some bigger injectors I'm going to install tomorrow so I can finally up the boost on the 15g. It's already tail happy and incredibly peppy. Can't wait for more power! Just need to put the underdash back together and finish up wiring the OD to work like stock.
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Jan 4, 2014 05:15
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Cancelbot posted:Further to my previous questions. I've spotted this; This was a while ago, but I'd avoid the '05 simply because it's an '05 (plus it's an auto, but thats up to you really). Newer is better with the C/S/V 30/40/50. The early cars had lots and lots of electrical gremlins. I've got an '06 and it likes to randomly lose all electrical power in both left doors about two or three times per year. Comes back after a couple of days every time.
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Jan 4, 2014 05:39
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bandman posted:Is "Fucker" the generally accepted term for that hose, like the Hose From Hell on SW20 MR2 turbos? Not really, but it's certainly what I called it after finding out that it caused my 940 to overheat badly enough to do this:  That style of heater hose seems to be failure-prone. I had a similar part fail in the exact same way in one of my 240s.
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Jan 4, 2014 20:28
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zundfolge posted:Not really, but it's certainly what I called it after finding out that it caused my 940 to overheat badly enough to do this: Did it still work afterwards? I can't assume it didn't, knowing Volvos.
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Jan 4, 2014 21:35
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That's a single-cam redblock, so probably.  Non-interference, so timing loss wouldn't bend valves. No idea how hot it had to be to do that, though; maybe some head warpage?
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Jan 5, 2014 02:55
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The head warped badly enough that it wouldn't run, but one junkyard replacement later and it fired up on the first crank. The timing belt was fine-I removed the belt and cam gear for that picture to better show the damage. I have some doubts about the health of the bottom end but it runs quietly and makes good power, so I'm not going to obsess about it too much. I bought it to be a winter beater and it should be great for that.
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jan 5, 2014 |
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Jan 5, 2014 03:12
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the poi posted:Got my giant-wheeled 960 back on the road: Quoting just to make sure you get some more credit for this car, it's truly insane. Glad to see you back into it again.
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Jan 5, 2014 08:50
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LloydDobler posted:Quoting just to make sure you get some more credit for this car, it's truly insane. Glad to see you back into it again. New pic, now with a grill!  It was basically sitting around for 3 years while I whittled away on the bodywork and stuff. It's kind of weird to actually be driving it again. Other than a bad bulb in the dash and a discharged AC, it seems to have survived just fine. First time I've driven it with the new front suspension too: 
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Jan 5, 2014 10:12
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So I have a 92 volvo 740 nonturbo that doesn't want to start. I drove it to work with no issues but then it didn't want to start. It cranks and sometimes starts to catch but then nothing. I've got spark, I think I have fuel (popped off the return line and when cranking it dribbles a bit. I've checked the fuel pump relay, the radio suppression relay and now I'm lost. One thing is that my harmonic balancer is shot, the rubber is still there but it doesn't catch easily. I was reading that the car needs the alternator output while starting to energize the injectors? Is there anyway to test this or bypass it? If that's my issue I should be able to heat the balancer with a torch a bit to make it grab while starting. Also yes it does have gas, 1/3rd to 1/2 of a tank but it is parked where the front is a bit higher than the rear if that matters.
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Jan 8, 2014 16:27
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