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thegasman2000 posted:Any recommendations for gloves? I am doing a lot of auto and welding work and the stupid latex ones i am using shred when I even look at an awkward to remove bolt. Big bulky ones get on my tits so I don't wear them and end up with hands like a hookers underpants, soiled and horrible. So what do you all wear? These completely own. http://www.amazon.com/G-Tek-MaxiFlex-34-874-Seamless-Gloves/dp/B000QOF2WG They come in other dip versions, but they're some kind of foam dip instead of the not-breathable nitrile type. I wear them daily but only go through about 1 pair every month and a half. They make cutproof and lighter weight versions too.
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Dec 2, 2013 01:15
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mod sassinator posted:Go for the thicker nitrile gloves, they're a lot more wear resistant: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-mil-nitrile-gloves-powder-free-medium-50-pc-68510.html They're a little more annoying to get on and your hands will sweat like crazy, but they work well in my experience. I love when I reach up and a 1/4 cup of sweat pours down my forearm. Also I think I get increased grip from having wrinkly fingertips. I hate when I do tear them and have to thoroughly dry off my hand before I can put a new one on. I go through about 5 per job it seems like. Either I really have to get something from inside which means take off greasy glove, or I get that sweet feeling of cool relief when the palm tears.
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Dec 2, 2013 02:53
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So the one thing I got on black friday was a dremel lowes had marked down to fifty bucks. I'm exicted to have one at last as I've been wanting one for a while now just haven't been able to justify the cost when I need other tools more. Anyway I was wondering if there are any attachments I should really get (other then the plastic shield thing, a cutting disk breaking apart at high rpms just sounds bad) and where is a good place to get decent priced accessories?
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Dec 2, 2013 04:43
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The Dremel flex shaft attachment is really cool for detail work or getting into tight spaces. I rarely take mine off. http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8
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Dec 2, 2013 04:50
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As I have worked in the environmental field for nearly a decade, I actually have a strong opinion on nitrile gloves. Thin, lovely quality gloves make every job a pain in the rear end, so don't cheap out. For nitrile gloves, I always go with Microflex Supreno SE or EC. I think the only difference is the the EC has a slightly longer cuff. They are tough enough to last through a whole job, but they don't hinder feel or dexterity at all. I love 'em. For reusable shop gloves, the Gorilla Grip gloves InitialDave mentioned are pretty great.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:33
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StormDrain posted:I love when I reach up and a 1/4 cup of sweat pours down my forearm. Also I think I get increased grip from having wrinkly fingertips. I always get to a point where I need to check something on my phone and then need to decide is it worth the trouble to take the glove off and get a new one, or just get grease and dirt on the phone. Usually I just dirty up the phone.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:37
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Grease keeps water out of the phone, so you're doing the right thing and I won't hear any comments to the contrary 
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Dec 2, 2013 05:38
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bandman posted:As I have worked in the environmental field for nearly a decade, I actually have a strong opinion on nitrile gloves. Thin, lovely quality gloves make every job a pain in the rear end, so don't cheap out. For nitrile gloves, I always go with Microflex Supreno SE or EC. I think the only difference is the the EC has a slightly longer cuff. They are tough enough to last through a whole job, but they don't hinder feel or dexterity at all. I love 'em. For reusable shop gloves, the Gorilla Grip gloves InitialDave mentioned are pretty great. Looking at Microflex website, I currently use the Black Dragon Zeros which is the thinnest they offer. However these look interesting http://www.microflex.com/Products/DFK-608.aspx they've got a flocked liner to keep hands dry. They're also double the cost since there's less per box. I think I'll try the Supreno on the next buy.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:47
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So thanks to the help in this thread I got the 26" HF toolbox. So far I love it. Holy poo poo my driveway is crooked.
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Dec 2, 2013 21:41
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StormDrain posted:Looking at Microflex website, I currently use the Black Dragon Zeros which is the thinnest they offer. However these look interesting http://www.microflex.com/Products/DFK-608.aspx they've got a flocked liner to keep hands dry. They're also double the cost since there's less per box. I think I'll try the Supreno on the next buy. I have been through a couple boxes of these. They are the greatest gloves I have ever used, hands down.
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Dec 3, 2013 04:29
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InitialDave posted:Paddocks, the Land Rover place, sell "Gorilla Grip" gloves for about £3.50 which are quite good. My technique is to still wear a pair of latex gloves underneath them, to stop the oil which soaks through the fabric sections. Thanks for the suggestion, i'm going to try some of these too. I've been using doubled up latex gloves recently as one pair just seems to make my hands colder, wheres I can still feel my fingers with 2 pairs. John Richards Landrovers seems to be the cheapest place to buy latex gloves.
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Dec 3, 2013 11:12
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Bajaha posted:For any Canuk that needs a jack, just picked this one up today: Crustashio posted:Oh poo poo I've really been wanting one of these so I don't have to use ramps with my M3. I assume it weighs about a million pounds? A friend has one of these, and it's on my Christmas list. I've used it, very easy to move around. Heavy as all gently caress, but I *think* it can get to the front subframe lifting point on a miata with no need for ramps.
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Dec 3, 2013 18:55
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I need a new shop light, any suggestions? I have a corded "trouble light" right now and it works great in the summer, but my garage is unheated and when it's cold if I even slightly bump the housing it blows the light bulb. I thought about going with the rough service bulbs but with incandescent light bulbs being phased out they're going to get harder to find and more expensive. I'd like a corded LED solution but there are a ton to choose from and the reviews on Amazon are pretty hit or miss. Any suggestions for an LED shoplight that approximates the output of what I have now?
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Dec 3, 2013 22:34
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I'm 28 and have been working on cars since I was around 17. Today was the first time I dropped a bolt into the briney depths of my engine compartment and was unable to retrieve it with pliers or the like. I had a magnet taped to the end of a spare battery tie down rod and that didn't reach. Basically what I learnt is that I should have bought one of these powerbuilt flexy magnet-on-a-stick items a very long time ago. I didn't know they made them bendy or I would have grabbed one earlier.
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Dec 4, 2013 01:04
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VelociBacon posted:I'm 28 and have been working on cars since I was around 17. Today was the first time I dropped a bolt into the briney depths of my engine compartment and was unable to retrieve it with pliers or the like. I had a magnet taped to the end of a spare battery tie down rod and that didn't reach. I refuse to believe that you have never dropped a bolt into the engine and lost it. It was maybe the first thing I ever did to my car, and just happened to me on my pickup last month. I was never very good at Where's Waldo for what it's worth. I like the claw grabber, prefer with a light. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools...tool+with+light
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Dec 4, 2013 05:40
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StormDrain posted:I refuse to believe that you have never dropped a bolt into the engine and lost it. It was maybe the first thing I ever did to my car, and just happened to me on my pickup last month. I was never very good at Where's Waldo for what it's worth. I've actually just always had physically smaller engines in my cars, or at least the cars I've been working on, so it wasn't that hard to get fallen bolts. I've also never before still had the undercarraige piece underneath the engine that catches stuff so whenever I dropped something I was able to knock it down onto the garage floor or just pick it up with needlenose pliers.
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Dec 4, 2013 05:44
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LordOfThePants posted:I need a new shop light, any suggestions? I have a corded "trouble light" right now and it works great in the summer, but my garage is unheated and when it's cold if I even slightly bump the housing it blows the light bulb. I thought about going with the rough service bulbs but with incandescent light bulbs being phased out they're going to get harder to find and more expensive. I dunno if it's rugged enough for all day shop use, but some goon pointed me to this light at Home Depot a while ago. It was cheap and runs on rechargeable batteries. It comes with a long cord you can plug into the wall, plus a car charger. The charge lasts a few months in the car between top ups and has served me well when working in the garage. No problems in the cold. Also, the hex shaped end caps let you either stand it on end of lay it on the side without worrying that it will roll away.
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Dec 4, 2013 08:10
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I think that was me that recommended it, and thank you for posting it. They don't have them in my local store anymore, just some pile of crap made by Defiant. Never buy Defiant lights, they are all cheesy crap. Word of warning, gasoline will make the rubber grip swell (it shrinks back down over the course of a few weeks, though) and acetone/brakleen will cloud the lens badly. Oh, and put a dab of loctite on the nut that holds the charging port into the base, they like to come loose if you aren't gentle with the light.
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Dec 4, 2013 18:28
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If you buy $100 of Bosch, Makita, or Dewalt tools on Amazon, you can get $25 off. Same with Porter Cable, but only $20 off.
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Dec 4, 2013 22:05
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Spurge-time on some bigger tools - after 20 years of using the same £25 trolley jack, I finally got round to buying a better one, a Sealey 3000CXD. It's a bit of a beast - weighs in at 38KG, and it feels like I could lift a tank with it - although it'll cope with my cars and Land Rovers just fine!  Also bought a Makita 8391DWPE 18v cordless drill - as I've borked the second cheap cordless drill in 6 months. Moral of the story is buy it once, and buy it well... 
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Dec 4, 2013 23:58
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Any recommendations on garage heaters? Currently I use a 50-80k BTU propane torpedo heater whenever I'm planning on working, but running out of gas in the middle of a job sucks, plus the fumes from running it indoors can be an issue if I'm working all day. I have a little electric space heater, but that can't maintain temp during most of the winter, and it eats up valuable wattage for power tools. I've got a 22x20, 10' ceilings, one wall and half the ceiling is finished. I've got 40A of 120V service on 2 20A sets of outlets, and the easy option of running a natural gas line before I insulate and sheetrock the rest of the garage. I've been browsing hanging vented heaters, as well as some ventless wall units, but I wa nted to see if anyone has any firsthand experience. I'm in MN, so the winters can be cold, but being able to bring the garage up to 50* and keep it there is more than sufficient.
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Dec 5, 2013 04:57
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reddeathdrinker posted:Also bought a Makita 8391DWPE 18v cordless drill - as I've borked the second cheap cordless drill in 6 months. Moral of the story is buy it once, and buy it well... They still make NiCD cordless?
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Dec 5, 2013 04:59
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PitViper posted:Any recommendations on garage heaters? Currently I use a 50-80k BTU propane torpedo heater whenever I'm planning on working, but running out of gas in the middle of a job sucks, plus the fumes from running it indoors can be an issue if I'm working all day. I have a little electric space heater, but that can't maintain temp during most of the winter, and it eats up valuable wattage for power tools. You just missed the best deal in a while. I bought a Dayton garage heater from zoro tools during the cyber Monday sale. It's 45k btu , and I bought the concentric vent kit so it will use outside air for combustion. Another popular option is the modine hot dawg, very similar to mine. If you make a lot of dust or use solvents, get a separated combustion model, it won't suck the dust into the burners. My heater and the venting was around $625 with free shipping.
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Dec 5, 2013 13:08
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PitViper posted:Any recommendations on garage heaters? Currently I use a 50-80k BTU propane torpedo heater whenever I'm planning on working, but running out of gas in the middle of a job sucks, plus the fumes from running it indoors can be an issue if I'm working all day. I have a little electric space heater, but that can't maintain temp during most of the winter, and it eats up valuable wattage for power tools. If it's going to be air tight (and better yet insulated) you could easily pick up any old "take out" natural gas forced air furnace. I'm heating my 20x30 barn with a 65k unit, and it's not even insulated nor does it have a finished ceiling (meaning the heat is going up and out the eaves). Yeah, it runs constantly but it would be just fine if I put something on the ceiling. You can find them for under $100 if you're lucky and know someone who knows someone in the HVAC trade. Sure, it's not gonna be the most efficient thing but if this is just occasional heat who cares? All you'll need is an NG line and a 120v supply to run the ignitor and fan and a thermostat (or just a switch that bridges red+white on the control board). Don't even both with ducting. Just slap a filter on the intake with some foil tape and let it spew out of the top. If you really want to get fancy with ducting it's easy to do later.
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Dec 5, 2013 17:47
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Ideally I'd run it all winter, at least to keep the garage above freezing. I'd only turn it up to 50-60* when I'm actually out there, which is at least a couple days a week. I've looked at some ceiling-hanging 45k BTU units like sharkytm mentioned, I'd like to preserve as much of my floor space as I can. The garage will be insulated and finished, but I'd like to figure out my heat options before I start that. My furnace/water heater and all utilities hookups are in an interior room right next to the garage, which is why I'd really like something NG-powered. Minimal electrical draw, plenty of heat output. The only downsides to the heater I have now are the fumes and the lack of 24/7 usability. I saw some of the panel-type heaters (like a gas-fired baseboard heater) that were less expensive, but lower BTUs, plus I'd sacrifice floor space in front of it. Since I own the home, and plan to stay at least 8-10 years, I'd like to make it as comfortable as possible.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:38
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Yeah, then go with a hanging unit. It's likely to be a bunch more expensive, but should fit your criteria just fine. If you are going to run it all winter, go with something newer so it's efficient. I'd guess that 45k BTU would do you just fine with reasonable insulation.
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Dec 5, 2013 19:18
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PitViper posted:Ideally I'd run it all winter, at least to keep the garage above freezing. I'd only turn it up to 50-60* when I'm actually out there, which is at least a couple days a week. I've looked at some ceiling-hanging 45k BTU units like sharkytm mentioned, I'd like to preserve as much of my floor space as I can. Furnaces are great if you have room, don't make dust, and don't care about insurance. Your other option is a system that works off your existing boiler or furnace. If my boiler was accessible from the garage, I'd install a hydronic heater instead of a separate unit.
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Dec 7, 2013 03:20
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sharkytm posted:Furnaces are great if you have room, don't make dust, and don't care about insurance. I'm confused - I get the "if you have room part." Can you explain the rest? Because I actually turn the air handler ON when I'm making dust so the filter pulls it out of the air, and why would your insurance care about a furnace in your garage unless you've installed it improperly?
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Dec 7, 2013 15:39
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Motronic posted:I'm confused - I get the "if you have room part." Can you explain the rest? Because I actually turn the air handler ON when I'm making dust so the filter pulls it out of the air, and why would your insurance care about a furnace in your garage unless you've installed it improperly? Very few furnaces are rated for installation in garages, or anywhere with flammables or excessive flammable dust. Your insurance will care if you are using a furnace as a dust collection system.
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Dec 7, 2013 17:22
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sharkytm posted:Very few furnaces are rated for installation in garages, or anywhere with flammables or excessive flammable dust. Your insurance will care if you are using a furnace as a dust collection system. I'm not sure if you're operating a grain silo in your garage or a paint booth, but there is no code requirement for an intrinsically safe heater in a residential garage being used for typical residential purposes. A gas home heater, properly installed (again, we go back to this properly installed thing) has little to no air mixing with the conditioned space and the combustion chamber. This is definitely not the case for hanging heaters, which use room air for combustion makeup.
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Dec 7, 2013 17:51
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Sharky, how difficult was the install on yours? As cheap as a used home furnace would be, I'm definitely thinking a hanging one is the way I'll end up going. I'll be doing the garage finishing myself, but I'm wondering if I want to get an HVAC guy to hook the heater up.
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Dec 7, 2013 18:34
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Cakefool posted:This is what I've got: I've got a few of those.  Just wish they came with some kind of torque indicator. It's way too easy to over-tighten your tractor wheels with those nasty fuckers.
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Dec 7, 2013 18:36
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Older, non high-efficiency furnaces do pull make up air from the room they're installed in. My furnace from 1982 has open burners right behind the maintenance cover/grate. That being said, it is also installed in my garage because code allows for furnaces and water heaters so long as minimum height of combustion sources (the burner) are maintained. My builder accomplished this by building a platform for the water heater and putting a few cinder blocks under the furnace.
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Dec 7, 2013 21:57
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Cat Hatter posted:Older, non high-efficiency furnaces do pull make up air from the room they're installed in. Yes. And most hanging heaters that weren't made in the last 15 years still have standing pilot lights, long after home heaters went to electronic ignition. My point is that one isn't significantly more safe than the other unless you are purchasing a $10k+ intrinsically safe unit that is required for high hazard environments, which a garage is not. And SHOULD not be, especially one that is attached to your HOUSE as the originator of this question has. Even counting on what I mentioned previously for a high hazard environment would be ludicrous. But if you want to argue minutiae, I'm here to help. In more practical matters, he wants more floor space, which means a hanging unit or if he has the space putting a residential forced air unit in the attic above. A hanging heater is certainly an easier solution for those not familiar with HVAC (chains + and outlet + a gas line), which is the primary reason you'll find most "warm garage conversions" done this way.
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Dec 7, 2013 23:24
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Motronic posted:Yes. And most hanging heaters that weren't made in the last 15 years still have standing pilot lights, long after home heaters went to electronic ignition. What are you getting all worked up about? I was agreeing with you in principle that, unlike what other people were saying, a furnace is safe and legal to install in a garage so long as you mount it high enough (usually a few inches off the ground) that the open combustion chamber on the used $100 unit you suggested isn't going to set heavier than air gas fumes on fire. Building codes aren't minutiae. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 01:27
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I have just spent an hour playing with my mates TIG welder and now I want one badly! I was looking at a SIP http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-05266-weldmate-p178hf-tig-arc-inverter-welder.html but it looks like the R-tech stuff is highly regarded (but is 25% more expensive) http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/Tig_Welder/Tig_Welders_R-Tech_Tig160PDC His is an R-tech and he rated their support and warranty support highly. has anybody used SIP stuff or dealt with them or have any other suggestions? I'm in the UK and this is only for light home workshop use. I don't really want to risk a cheap ebay Chinese noname one. I want one that does HF start and just DC (since I can't afford an AC one)
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Dec 8, 2013 16:28
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PitViper posted:Sharky, how difficult was the install on yours? As cheap as a used home furnace would be, I'm definitely thinking a hanging one is the way I'll end up going. I'll be doing the garage finishing myself, but I'm wondering if I want to get an HVAC guy to hook the heater up. Mine only got delivered on Friday. I'll do the hanging and wiring, but I'll have a plumber/gas fitter do the gas lines. Mine is NOT a standing pilot, all electronic ignition. If you install a modern high efficiency furnace, fine. Old, used units are often using inside air for combustion, and can be very sensitive to dust. Plus, exhausting inside air outside will suck in cold outside air, further reducing efficiency. I do a lot of painting, solvent work, and woodworking in my small two car garage. There's no way a floor mounted furnace would be a good idea. My insurance explicitly states no furnaces in areas with flammable vapors or excessive dust.
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Dec 8, 2013 19:22
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sharkytm posted:Old, used units are often using inside air for combustion, and can be very sensitive to dust. Plus, exhausting inside air outside will suck in cold outside air, further reducing efficiency. You found a hanging unit with makeup air? I've not seen that before.
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Dec 8, 2013 20:12
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Speaking of sucking air, any of you guys used an portable electric ventilator for airing out your garage and/or paint booth? Maybe one of these? Or a better option? http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/ventilation-blowers/8-inch-portable-ventilator-97762.html http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/fans/blower/portable-ventilation-fan-8-inch-with-16-feet-flexible-ducting I'd like to be able to paint in my garage, but the ceilings are now closed up so I'd rather not rip into them to install an exhaust fan and my windows aren't big enough to support installation of a permanent in wall unit. I think with one of these I could dump the exhaust out a window (and rig up a mount) and get good airflow.
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Dec 8, 2013 23:57
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Mat_Drinks posted:Speaking of sucking air, any of you guys used an portable electric ventilator for airing out your garage and/or paint booth? Maybe one of these? Or a better option?
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Dec 9, 2013 01:29
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