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jamal posted:24" breaker bar, 6-point 1/2" socket. And make sure you are trying to loosen the nut and not the bolt. Whoops, meant to clarify that it's the nut that's starting to round. Yea, I've got the breaker bar + cheater pipe and proper socket covered, but it's not moving. If the nut finally rounds, what are my options? Drill it out?
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Dec 9, 2013 02:43
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McSpatula posted:Whoops, meant to clarify that it's the nut that's starting to round. Yea, I've got the breaker bar + cheater pipe and proper socket covered, but it's not moving. If the nut finally rounds, what are my options? Drill it out? Cut it off and get a new bolt/nut OR try and grind/shave down the nut and get a different size socket on and keep cranking OR get a nut splitter and see if that will break the nut.
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Dec 9, 2013 02:50
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If that's the one that goes through the metal sleeve in the trailing arm bushing, it often rusts to the sleeve and becomes impossible to remove even when you get the nut off. Most people torch the bushing out at that point.
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Dec 9, 2013 02:53
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So I picked up the Cobb AP this weekend from a local shop doing a really good deal on the V2 SUB 003. They said to pull the injen out and put the stock intake back in and flash to stage 1 until I get my downpipe. Or to order the Cobb Intake. Anyone using the Cobb or AEM intake?
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Dec 9, 2013 03:36
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I have always had good results with the AEM intakes. They are well made and fit right and don't futz up the AFR too badly, unlike a lot of the stuff out there. If you are going straight to dyno tune it doesn't really matter what intake is on the car but with reflashes like this it's best to stick with what works. I'm not a cobb dealer so I do have some motivation to suggest the aem, but I used to carry them and have always made the same suggestion. The downside is that if you start straying too far from the cobb recommendation you will want to get a tune anyway. Going with a catless downpipe for example because they are so much cheaper than the catted parts will usually result in boost control issues using their stage 2 maps.
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Dec 9, 2013 03:51
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With the recent weather, everyone is posting pictures of their subaru's in the snow. It was 84 in the florid Panhandle today.. best I can do 
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Dec 9, 2013 04:04
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MasterOfDemons posted:So I picked up the Cobb AP this weekend from a local shop doing a really good deal on the V2 SUB 003. They said to pull the injen out and put the stock intake back in and flash to stage 1 until I get my downpipe. Or to order the Cobb Intake. I've got the Cobb SF intake, although it's not a normal application of it in my case. If you're buying brand new, it seems really expensive. It's apparently one of the loudest intakes available (youtube for examples of the sound, you may or may not like it) and apparently the heat shield is kinda BS and some people report higher intake temps than stock. I'm happy with mine though.
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Dec 9, 2013 04:27
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So I went Dirt Fish Rally School over the weekend: https://www.dirtfish.com/ I was given a gift certificate for the half-day class for my birthday. It was a ton of fun and I learned a lot about handling a car in low traction conditions. Unfortunately, the conditions weren't the best--it's been insanely cold up here and the ground was frozen solid under some loose gravel on top. It was easy to initiate slides, but the conditions weren't forgiving and it was very easy to over-rotate. I think I've mastered the 180. It felt great to nail a perfect corner, though, and I can see how this could get addicting. I'd recommend it, and I'd like to go back some day and take one of the longer courses (if I ever have the money). Riding along with the instructor on the course was exhilarating and humbling.
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Dec 9, 2013 04:37
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Holy crap! I got my Impreza started and it it makes no funny noises and has no misfires. I removed the engine completely to replace the headgasket, my first engine remove and re install ever and it works! Also my first clutch job. Thanks everyone in the thread for help, wouldn't have done it without this forum. I just need to slap on the front brake, some mud guards, couple intake bolts, and get it registered and insured! I'll drive it about ~500 miles and get it inspected and sell it. ...or cage it for rally? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzEwrwPC7GY
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Dec 9, 2013 05:42
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Can anyone confirm or deny that a turbo legacy radiator (91-94) fits into an EJ20k setup (98 STI)? Thanks.
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Dec 9, 2013 05:46
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Some quick searching around rs25 seems to indicate that it does, but you may or may not have clearance issues between the fans and accessories. rsd even has a koyo in stock.
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Dec 9, 2013 06:10
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jamal posted:Get the stoptech pads. Whatever is cheap for rotors. Don't bother with a big brake kit unless you are tracking the car frequently. You have the 4/2-pot brakes with subaru written across them, right? The part numbers you have are not the right ones: Yes, I have the red 4/2 callipers - but Rockauto seems to think that my front pad should be 30911820, and the rear 30904611? Is this a US/Euro difference? I thought they were the same.
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Dec 9, 2013 08:13
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Same thing. 1182, 647, and one or two others are the same pad backing plate shape. 647 is the old Nissan 4-pot part number. In other markets I think 1182 got started for Subarus since so many more cars have those brakes and there might be some slight differences in how the pad material goes on. The difference between 04610 and 04611 is a wear indicator clip.
jamal fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Dec 9, 2013 |
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Dec 9, 2013 08:41
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Brilliant, thanks! I ordered the Stoptech front pads from Rockauto, even with shipping and tax they're less than half the price of "good" pads here. Euro Car Parts have a 30% discount on brakes at the moment, so I ordered a pair of Pagid discs from them. Next question, not really a major thing: Exactly where is "normal" for the temperature needle? Mine hovers a millimeter or two above the 1/3rd mark, so it's not quite slap bang in the middle, but not obviously "overcooling" either.
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Dec 9, 2013 13:30
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InitialDave posted:Next question, not really a major thing: Exactly where is "normal" for the temperature needle? Mine hovers a millimeter or two above the 1/3rd mark, so it's not quite slap bang in the middle, but not obviously "overcooling" either. The dash gauge is really a dummy light disguised as a gauge. Your best bet would be to pick up a cheap BT ELM OBD2 scanner or similar and see what the actual water temp is being reported as. Normal range for being fully warmed up is around 85*C-95*C.
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Dec 9, 2013 13:39
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Farking Bastage is a jerk and his post made me buy the Accessport I have been trying to ignore until tax return money blowing time. I'll get it sometime this week from RSD. Jamal, I still haven't gotten the sway bars installed on my car  It seems the older infants get, the more work they require. WHO KNEW?! I also got sent overseas for work at the last minute so I lost a few weekends there too. Any recommendations on holes to use for the endlinks since they are adjustable?On the mention of the 4/2 pot brakes from the 06-07 WRX. Is that something people still swap onto their cars? I saw there is a company that sells bracket adapters for the rear caliper and my car. Is it really a performance upgrade or just a cosmetic one really. I was under the impression my brakes were limited by the pads in use and the rubber on the wheel. I don't track the car yet, and can't see it becoming something that I abuse weekly. They are purty lookin though.
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Dec 9, 2013 13:53
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Bajaha posted:The dash gauge is really a dummy light disguised as a gauge.
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Dec 9, 2013 14:48
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, that's kind of what triggered my question - if I were designing such a system, I'd make the normal condition be to read right in the centre, but if that's not how Subaru did it, then that's fair enough. The needle stays in the center on my '02. Actual temps are between 185-200*F.
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Dec 9, 2013 15:16
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So I finally decided to get some dedicated winter tires for my '06 Impreza since my commute is a fair bit longer now, went with some 15" Generals, no studs. I got a call from Tire Rack and they said that PA law just changed in October -- they said you can be failed on inspection if wheels and tires don't match the door jamb sticker. I upsized to OEM (no problem there, it let me put on some steel wheels anyway) but for the life of me I can't find online reference to this supposed new law. Anyone have any experience or knowledge here?
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Dec 9, 2013 15:45
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I'd have just printed a new door jamb sticker to suit. If they base it on what the sticker says, rather than what factory fitment was, that's their own problem.
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Dec 9, 2013 15:56
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If you're running dedicated winters, does it matter? Just throw the OEMs on come inspection time, and then run whatever you want for the other 364 days. That is an absolutely retarded law though, and I thought Missouri was bad.
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Dec 9, 2013 15:58
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jamal posted:I have always had good results with the AEM intakes. They are well made and fit right and don't futz up the AFR too badly, unlike a lot of the stuff out there. If you are going straight to dyno tune it doesn't really matter what intake is on the car but with reflashes like this it's best to stick with what works. I'm not a cobb dealer so I do have some motivation to suggest the aem, but I used to carry them and have always made the same suggestion. Yeah, I'll be getting a tune once I change the downpipe anyway. This is a in the meantime kind of thing. Anyone interested in possibly purchasing an injen wrinkle red intake? 
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Dec 9, 2013 16:40
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si posted:If you're running dedicated winters, does it matter? Just throw the OEMs on come inspection time, and then run whatever you want for the other 364 days. InitialDave posted:I'd have just printed a new door jamb sticker to suit. If they base it on what the sticker says, rather than what factory fitment was, that's their own problem.
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Dec 9, 2013 16:47
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I got a call from Tire Rack and they said that PA law just changed in October -- they said you can be failed on inspection if wheels and tires don't match the door jamb sticker.
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Dec 9, 2013 17:03
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Aflicted posted:Jamal, I still haven't gotten the sway bars installed on my car 4/2 pots don't offer a whole lot of benefit. Bias shifts rearward a touch and the caliper is stiffer. You would maybe notice a little less pedal travel for the same amount of braking. My suggestion is always just to get good pads and a master cylinder brace and bleed the brakes.
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Dec 9, 2013 18:17
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So I'm waiting for a call... My car is in a Canadian tire in kelowna having the radiator switched to a turbo legacy radiator (thanks Jamal for checking that for me). I'm hoping no news is good news. Cost of tow from Big White to Kelowna? $412.50, the exact amount I pay in rent as it happens. Hoping I didn't damage anything when it was overheated for a little bit before I noticed.
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Dec 9, 2013 18:38
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How bad was the overheat?
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Dec 9, 2013 19:01
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Speaking of winter tires, I've got a quote from Tires Plus (we get Buy 3 get 1 free from work) for a set of 4 Blizzaks in 205/55/16 for $692 installed. The slightly cheaper option would be Firestone Winterforces for $525. The weather here in Wichita is usually cold as poo poo, with some ice, maybe a snow or two a year. Any reason not to get the blizzaks or reasons to get the winterforces instead?
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Dec 9, 2013 23:03
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Blizzak whats? Some Blizzaks are better than others. I ran the WS70s on my WRX for awhile and they were OK but I prefer the cheapo General Altimax Arctics with studs.
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Dec 9, 2013 23:06
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toplitzin posted:Speaking of winter tires, I've got a quote from Tires Plus (we get Buy 3 get 1 free from work) for a set of 4 Blizzaks in 205/55/16 for $692 installed. tirerack.com http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?skipOver=true&width=205%2F&ratio=55&diameter=16 Buy 3 Get 1 free = we price our 3 so high that it easily covers the cost of the 4th. Blizzaks Set of 4: $476.00 After mail-in rebate: $426.00 Winterforces Set of 4: $356.00 Personally I really like the Continental ExtremeWinterContacts over others I've had (Blizzak WS60 and Firestone Winterforce 3Ds). They don't have 205/55R16s available, but you could do a 205/60R16 without too much ill effect I'd imagine. si fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Dec 9, 2013 |
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Dec 9, 2013 23:08
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si posted:tirerack.com Thank you. This reminded me to send in my paperwork for a $60 MIR on my Wintersport 4Ds.
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Dec 9, 2013 23:32
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Seat Safety Switch posted:How bad was the overheat? Not sure how you score this but the stock water temp gauge was almost at max, probably for a minute or so before I was able to turn the car off. I made it back with a 4hr trip on the highways with no issues so I don't think there was any damage. I didn't notice anything untoward.
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Dec 9, 2013 23:40
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si posted:tirerack.com Ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha TireRack has a guaranteed install price for the Tires Plus store I got the quote from, so if I did the whole purchase including install through tirerack it would still be under $500 for the ws70's installed after rebate.
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Dec 10, 2013 00:37
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WHY am I looking at prices for Tribeca motors?
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Dec 10, 2013 00:54
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Cat Terrist posted:WHY am I looking at prices for Tribeca motors? Because you want a lightly boosted 3.0/3.6 H6?
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Dec 10, 2013 00:57
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Cat Terrist posted:WHY am I looking at prices for Tribeca motors? Because that's the only way anyone will ever drive a Tribeca -- by putting the motor in something else.
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Dec 10, 2013 01:15
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goatse guy posted:Because that's the only way anyone will ever drive a Tribeca -- by putting the motor in something else. To be fair, you can also get a sweet 25mm FSB for nonturbo cars out of them.
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Dec 10, 2013 02:30
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2001 OBW with 113k miles. Right front outer CV boot has pinholes / tears. Mechanic recommended that I replace the entire axle with an OEM Subaru axle. Total cost of axle at $379.99 + $99 labor for a total of $524.49 after tax. Thoughts on this? I assume just replace the right front outer CV boot is simple enough and can be done without replacing the entire axle, correct?
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Dec 10, 2013 02:51
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Just put the stock intake back in and flashed to Stage 1 93 OCT. Seeing a bit of a different, I kind of miss the sound of my intake so I'll proably be ordering the Cobb. Still either need to take off or fix my BOV issue though.
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Dec 10, 2013 02:54
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Busy Bee posted:2001 OBW with 113k miles. Right front outer CV boot has pinholes / tears. Mechanic recommended that I replace the entire axle with an OEM Subaru axle. Total cost of axle at $379.99 + $99 labor for a total of $524.49 after tax. Thoughts on this? I assume just replace the right front outer CV boot is simple enough and can be done without replacing the entire axle, correct? $525 for an axle replacement is a complete rip off. The labor charge is OK, but that is about 6x too much for the axle itself. Rock auto has a right front half shaft assembly for $45. http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=667259&p=rock
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Dec 10, 2013 02:55
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