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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I can't quite tell how much room you have. Have you tried squeezing in a cheater bar? Sometimes that first 1/4 is all that matters. Its maybe 20inches wall to wall and by the valve I maybe have 6-8 inches of room to work. I ended buying a sharkbite endcap (needs 1 inch) and a brass compression fitting (needs 1/2 - 3/4 inches) on the off chance I dont have enough pipe after cutting. Its 1.5 inches between the valve and tee fitting and even with the smallest tube cutter I figure ill lose 1/4 - 1/2 inch. To avoid that I may be able to cut the pipe flush to the valve with a hacksaw and then use the tube cutter on the very end.
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Nov 18, 2013 01:49
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Apologies if this is the wrong thread but I'm a DIY retard who has no business owning a house and since a toilet is attached to plumbing I figured why not. The tank on the back of my toilet is somehow coming away from the wall. It's weird because other than the weight of the tank itself pulling on it, it isn'. In any position for anything external to have moved it out of place. We don't put anything on the tank and there's no reason for anyone to touch it except hit the flush button on the tank lid. I took the lid off and took the below pictures http://imgur.com/r1iicMd http://imgur.com/uvpAG3N http://imgur.com/MjcUg71 http://imgur.com/7TErcHW http://imgur.com/3hOpAD7 So far as I can tell, it's supposed to be hanging from those screws. I've tried shifting it back into place but it won't move back far enough, particularly on the left hand side I'm also concerned about the plug coming out of the wall on the right hand screw. I'm not worried about it falling off the wall since the whole toilet sits on the floor and a little raised portion, but there's every chance the tank might just topple forwards and demolish itself along with the toilet and totally ruin my day. How do I fix this poo poo(ter)?
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Nov 20, 2013 08:26
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Grab Meatcastle posted:Apologies if this is the wrong thread but I'm a DIY retard who has no business owning a house and since a toilet is attached to plumbing I figured why not. What is the brand of that toilet? I've never see a tank with bolts that attach to a wall.
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Nov 20, 2013 15:45
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Grab Meatcastle posted:Apologies if this is the wrong thread but I'm a DIY retard who has no business owning a house and since a toilet is attached to plumbing I figured why not. Is the tank securely attached to the bowl-- when you shift the tank does the whole toilet move or just the tank? There should be a big 'ol nut directly underneath where the tank attaches to the bowl underneath where the water exits the tank, is that tight?
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Nov 20, 2013 16:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:What is the brand of that toilet? I've never see a tank with bolts that attach to a wall. It's an Ideal Standard E7514 Qwijib0 posted:Is the tank securely attached to the bowl-- when you shift the tank does the whole toilet move or just the tank? There should be a big 'ol nut directly underneath where the tank attaches to the bowl underneath where the water exits the tank, is that tight? So far as I can tell when I shift the tank it's just the tank, certainly doesn't feel like I'm shifting the whole thing by the weight of it. Unfortunately due to the design of the bathroom there's like a tiled shelf sitting under the tank behind the toilet and its been cut to fit exactly, so the only way I'm going to get to that nut to tighten it or anything looks like its going to be to drain the toilet and pull the whole unit out.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:09
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I am going to assume your house is at least 50 years old. If so replacing the entire toilet is a smart money saving move. And easy enough to do. Just watch a video then print out an instruction list.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:22
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I am going to assume your house is at least 50 years old. If so replacing the entire toilet is a smart money saving move. My house is 2 years old. I'm currently pursuing the developer to see if they can do anything considering I'm pretty sure things shouldn't be falling off the wall in a 2 year old house, since it seems like it isn't going to be something straightforward I can just get on and do. We have other bathrooms so it isn't the end of the world right now, thanks for the advice thus far though
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Nov 20, 2013 18:59
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I found installation instructions for a toilet that seems very similar to yours, the ideal website was not letting me d/l installation instructions. Your toilet seems to couple like every other, with two bolts (not the one big nut I mentioned earlier, I was thinking of another bit). They are hereish, one on each side  you should be able to see the tops of them in the tank, and feel the bottoms below it. If you've got rocking, they are probably not tight enough. The screws holding it to the wall appear to be a UK thing, and are just wood screws from the manual I saw. Here in  our toilets don't get screwed to the wall, so as long as it's not rocking on the floor, and appears secure there, I'd just tighten the tank to the bowl, then use plastic washers to adjust the spacing of those tank-to-wall-screws before you tighten 'em up and call it a day.
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Nov 20, 2013 22:04
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Qwijib0 posted:I found installation instructions for a toilet that seems very similar to yours, the ideal website was not letting me d/l installation instructions. I did a little exploring and managed to get to the bolts, they seem to be as tight as they can be. I'm starting to think maybe the base of the toilet isn't secure and that's what's shifted. I'm gonna bite the bullet and drain it this weekend and see if I can reposition it, so long as it sits sturdy I'll probably just add those washers too like you've suggested.
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Nov 21, 2013 19:15
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I need a 4 x 2 PVC reducer coupling but, I can't find any at the major hardware stores. Anyone have an idea where I can find one of these?
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Nov 23, 2013 05:36
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Azuth0667 posted:I need a 4 x 2 PVC reducer coupling but, I can't find any at the major hardware stores. Anyone have an idea where I can find one of these? Can you go to a 4x3 then add a 3x2 into it? Try local plumbing supply houses. Some of them sell to the public.
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Nov 23, 2013 07:22
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Grab Meatcastle posted:I did a little exploring and managed to get to the bolts, they seem to be as tight as they can be. I'm starting to think maybe the base of the toilet isn't secure and that's what's shifted. I'm gonna bite the bullet and drain it this weekend and see if I can reposition it, so long as it sits sturdy I'll probably just add those washers too like you've suggested. Go buy a new wax ring and some extra long flange bolts. Make a marker line on the bolt so you know how the t faces so as you tighten you don't rotate the bolt.
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Nov 23, 2013 14:59
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Can you go to a 4x3 then add a 3x2 into it? Try local plumbing supply houses. Some of them sell to the public. No its an odd fit it has to be a 4x2, I'll see if I can find a plumbing supply house.
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Nov 24, 2013 03:57
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Speaking of toilets, I'm replacing one soon and I'm kind of baffled at toilet design and how little it strays from tradition. Like, you know that grossest thing in your house that you poop and pee in and sometimes on? Let's make it super convoluted, it needs more nooks and crannies and places where you have to get your face right down in there to clean. I guess the one piece ones are an improvement but in an ideal world I would really just like a cube "flush" (little plumbing humor there) to the wall and the floor. I guess that makes it more dependent on the rough plumbing locations, but are there any industrial/modern/outhouse designs that fit the bill? edit: McMaster has a 4 -> 2 adapter, here. King of Gulps fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 18:16
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King of Gulps posted:Speaking of toilets, I'm replacing one soon and I'm kind of baffled at toilet design and how little it strays from tradition. Like, you know that grossest thing in your house that you poop and pee in and sometimes on? Let's make it super convoluted, it needs more nooks and crannies and places where you have to get your face right down in there to clean. I guess the one piece ones are an improvement but in an ideal world I would really just like a cube "flush" (little plumbing humor there) to the wall and the floor. I guess that makes it more dependent on the rough plumbing locations, but are there any industrial/modern/outhouse designs that fit the bill? this is the crannies-less toilet I know about, my wife's parents have them. Perform as well as any other new toilet I've seen. http://www.caromausa.com/products/index/cu_products/30.php
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Dec 4, 2013 19:46
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Qwijib0 posted:this is the crannies-less toilet I know about, my wife's parents have them. Perform as well as any other new toilet I've seen. Bowl height of 14.75"? What is this, a toilet for ants?!
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Dec 4, 2013 22:12
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pseudonordic posted:Bowl height of 14.75"? What is this, a toilet for ants?! Ha, Australians  they make a taller one, too: http://www.caromausa.com/products/index/cu_products/29.php
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Dec 5, 2013 00:42
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E: problem fixed! Gotta love it when your shower spits out a giant chunk of rusty minerals and you don't have to call a plumber 
Pardalis fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Dec 10, 2013 |
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Dec 9, 2013 21:27
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So I'm sure the answer is no, but does there exist a water heater I can attach to my showerhead to heat the water as it comes of the shower? My apartment doesn't seem to have enough hot water during the winter so I'm frequently left with the choice of not warm enough shower or just going without for the day. And since it's apartment I can't install a tankless water heater thing for the shower.
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Dec 10, 2013 17:57
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You can get an electric water heater that heats ay the shower head, but they do require some connection that your apartment won't be cool with. They seem to be pretty popular in south America.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:23
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FISHMANPET posted:So I'm sure the answer is no, but does there exist a water heater I can attach to my showerhead to heat the water as it comes of the shower? My apartment doesn't seem to have enough hot water during the winter so I'm frequently left with the choice of not warm enough shower or just going without for the day. And since it's apartment I can't install a tankless water heater thing for the shower. Absolutely. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHOWER-HEAD-INSTANT-HOT-WATER-HEATER-ELECTRIC-120V-/300630039919 I've seen them in other countries, and they look terrifying.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:56
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I'm sure for $34 that will be safe and UL listed.
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Dec 10, 2013 19:10
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm sure for $34 that will be safe and UL listed. I have to wonder if it's even possible to get one of them UL listed at any price.
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Dec 10, 2013 19:18
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Motronic posted:Absolutely. My wife was watching house hunters international one day and I saw it and It terrified me to see through the TV.. wirenuts in the shower No thanks. I'm sure it's all pretty safe and you won't get electrocuted because water is broken up a bit when falling... but still I wouldn't enter that shower. edit: they are hunting for houses not hungry tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 10, 2013 |
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Dec 10, 2013 20:59
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29.2 amps @ 120 volts... on "summer" mode You may want to check your local/state laws - oftentimes hot water is required for a place to be considered habitable.
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Dec 11, 2013 08:25
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some texas redneck posted:29.2 amps @ 120 volts... on "summer" mode That's def not getting plugged in to anything. BZZT
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Dec 11, 2013 16:43
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Motronic posted:Absolutely. I know someone who bought one of these. His breaker kept tripping "for some reason". He finally wised up and hired an electrician to run a 60 amp circuit directly to his showerhead.
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Dec 11, 2013 20:56
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slap me silly posted:run a 60 amp circuit directly to his showerhead. A phrase that should never need to be used, ever.
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Dec 11, 2013 21:14
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Motronic posted:A phrase that should never need to be used, ever. Heh, I used something similar in Vietnam a few weeks ago. The only hot water in the house was in the shower. There was a on-demand heater box mounted on the wall with a cold line going into it and a shower wand coming off of it. That heater pictured is a little safer in that the water outlet is fixed pointing away from the heater. But with a shower wand with a 2 meter hose... 
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Dec 13, 2013 20:50
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I will just go ahead and show you what my friend has. Just like this: Except his outlet is not GFCI, har har.
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Dec 14, 2013 08:00
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Well, of course not! You wouldn't want your hot water going out in the middle of a shower, would you?!
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Dec 14, 2013 16:32
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Ok, I'm trying to get the p-trap flange loose from the drain pipe into the wall underneath my bathroom sink. Here's a picture.  I got under the sink for a closer look, and it's possible the previous owners might have cross-threaded the loving thing. I can't get it to budge with a pipe wrench. Any suggestions?
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Dec 18, 2013 04:15
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kizudarake posted:Ok, I'm trying to get the p-trap flange loose from the drain pipe into the wall underneath my bathroom sink. Here's a picture. Have you tried channel lock pliers? Vice grips? Strap wrench? If you got a steady enough hand to not damage the threads underneath, you could maybe cut it off with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel. Do the cut at the top of the threads, just in case you do damage them.
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Dec 18, 2013 17:57
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kid sinister posted:Have you tried channel lock pliers? Vice grips? Strap wrench? If you got a steady enough hand to not damage the threads underneath, you could maybe cut it off with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel. Do the cut at the top of the threads, just in case you do damage them. I ended up removing the shelf at the left of the picture, and put the pipe wrench so that I could pull downward on the handle to unscrew it. Turns out, whoever did the work previously made do with a shitton of sealant and no rubber washer, which is what caused the issue. Best part of the whole job is that I bought a pair of ratcheting PVC pipe cutters, rather than hacksawing the pipes. I'm gonna use them in the future for cool projects. Anil Dikshit fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Dec 20, 2013 |
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Dec 20, 2013 18:18
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Mid-day yesterday we lost hot water flow/pressure at every faucet, appliance, etc. in the house. Yesterday was also the coldest day we've had in years, so my first thought was "frozen pipe", but we were able to take hot showers normally in the morning and I ran a load of laundry with hot water around lunchtime, so I wouldn't expect a pipe to freeze in the middle of the afternoon after just having hot water running through it. I hooked up a hose to the drain valve on the bottom of the hot water heater and it was running clear, I didn't see any sediment or anything in there. The hot water outlet pipe on top of the heater is still hot to the touch, as far as I can follow it out of our utility room. But every time I turn on a hot water tap at any faucet in the house, it sputters and the flow quickly slows to a trickle. The water that does come out is warm, but not hot. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix this other than "wait until Monday and call a plumber"? edit: Ended up having a plumber out to fix it today, there was sediment/rust/etc. clogging up a valve on the cold water intake of the hot water heater. They cut that off, soldered some new pipe in its place, and I'm back in business. Took them around ~45 minutes for the repair. Parker Lewis fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 18:28
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This will be a speck out of character for the thread, but where does one pick up cheap black pipe and nipples? I have a dream of building a ski lift chair replica out of black pipe but the cost is quite prohibitive using the stuff from the usual big box places.
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Jan 6, 2014 20:09
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Tim Thomas posted:This will be a speck out of character for the thread, but where does one pick up cheap black pipe and nipples? I have a dream of building a ski lift chair replica out of black pipe but the cost is quite prohibitive using the stuff from the usual big box places. White PVC + black spray paint?
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Jan 6, 2014 20:21
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pseudonordic posted:White PVC + black spray paint? Well that would look like rear end in no time flat. Your best bet for 'cheap' black iron pipe is probably a pipe supplier. It'll come in something like 25' lengths and you will have to cut and thread it yourself.
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Jan 6, 2014 23:10
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Tim Thomas posted:This will be a speck out of character for the thread, but where does one pick up cheap black pipe and nipples? I have a dream of building a ski lift chair replica out of black pipe but the cost is quite prohibitive using the stuff from the usual big box places. Try your local plumbing wholesale. They should have 12' lengths available for much cheaper than the big box, then I would rent an electric pipe threader when it came time to assemble.
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Jan 7, 2014 02:57
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thelightguy posted:Well that would look like rear end in no time flat. Little sanding and 2 coats of matte black would be spot on.
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Jan 7, 2014 03:28
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