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Obsurveyor posted:Have you tightened the nozzle while it's cold? If filament has gotten between the nozzle and the heater block, it would melt and turn black after awhile, I imagine. You may want to make sure your resistor isn't shorted to the block either(this is unlikely, this would be more catastrophic and not layer based). After partially talking apart the nozzle, there's definitely plastic where there shouldn't be plastic (on top of the heater block). Maybe the thing overheated at one point. My thermistor had been acting up (jumpy temperatures) a few weeks ago, but I added some kapton tape around the heater block and thought I had resolved the issue. Perhaps it's time to spend some money on the non Chinese knock-off version of this hot-end DBlue135 fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 20:45
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Obsurveyor posted:I meant that specific printer, not in general. This is hobby level stuff we're talking here. RepRapPro first blogged about it 6 days ago I believe. You're going to have to do a better job of talking me out of it here 
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Dec 8, 2013 21:03
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Cakefool posted:You're going to have to do a better job of talking me out of it here I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just letting you know what you're in for.  If you want to learn a lot about your printer and 3d printing in general, picking a new design is a great way to do it.
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Dec 8, 2013 22:01
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Delamore posted:Other than here, are there any good locations for general printer discussion that isn't all praise of printers and ~~post scarcity~~ discussion? The dedicated forms for various printers generally are focused on people printing, and projects they are working on. I've used the SoliForum for reference a ton http://www.soliforum.com/
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Dec 8, 2013 23:38
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1 day sale on Makerbot Digitizer at inventables.com ($949) today. Now what I want is not to scan small objects into 3D models. I want a handheld scanner that can model whatever I wave it at. Vengeance would then be mine you funky curved or angled surfaces that I want to make a piece to drop-in mate on/into 
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Dec 10, 2013 18:36
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Mister Sinewave posted:1 day sale on Makerbot Digitizer at inventables.com ($949) today. At the hobbyist level, the current best options for that are to use a Kinect with something like ReconstructMe or go the photogrammetry route with ReCap or 123D Catch. Cosmo Wenmen just released a new scan he did of the Venus de Milo using ReCap: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196037 
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Dec 10, 2013 18:49
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Thanks for the tips!
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Dec 10, 2013 19:18
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Some scans I've seen on thingiverse from the digitizer look really awful
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Dec 10, 2013 21:05
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If I've got about 1k to spend on a printer, is there any reason I shouldn't go with a Printrbot Plus?
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Dec 10, 2013 21:14
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Because I have a Minimax with interchangable toolheads, 5lbs of filament included, a 3W laser, and 2 sheets of borosilicate for $700 + S/H?
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Dec 10, 2013 21:32
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What is a minimax? A lulzbot? I thought those were like $2k.
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Dec 10, 2013 22:34
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rt4 posted:If I've got about 1k to spend on a printer, is there any reason I shouldn't go with a Printrbot Plus? If you're going with a reprap style why not the robo 3d? $300 cheaper and has ABS
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Dec 10, 2013 22:53
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techknight posted:At the hobbyist level, the current best options for that are to use a Kinect with something like ReconstructMe or go the photogrammetry route with ReCap or 123D Catch. Wait, you can make a mold out of that. Wait, you can make your own gummi candy. I know what needs to be done know... 
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Dec 10, 2013 23:24
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Geirskogul posted:What is a minimax? A lulzbot? I thought those were like $2k. It started life as a Lulzbot Minimax, which was the precursor to the AO-100. It's been retrofitted with most of the AO-100 parts and several of my own design. I can't actually call it an AO-100.
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Dec 11, 2013 00:28
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MickRaider posted:Some scans I've seen on thingiverse from the digitizer look really awful The digitizer isn't really for high fidelity parts. Much like old photocopying machines you lose a good deal of quality when you use it. Aside from the quality of the scan overall, the software uses an algorithm to fill in things that it can't see, and I would argue that that is worse than leaving a void and going in to fill it in with whatever features you want there.
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Dec 11, 2013 02:41
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What's to stop you from going back and correcting those spots anyhow? I mean, it's just a model, replacing something isn't any harder than filling something in. The difference being that one gives you a model you can immediately print, the other doesn't.
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Dec 11, 2013 02:44
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Bad Munki posted:What's to stop you from going back and correcting those spots anyhow? I mean, it's just a model, replacing something isn't any harder than filling something in. The difference being that one gives you a model you can immediately print, the other doesn't. If you're doing that, then what's stopping you from taking a lot of reference pictures and making the model in Blender? Of course, there's stuff like sculptures that would benefit from this more than just components and the like that would be beyond most people's ability to create a mesh for.
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Dec 11, 2013 04:32
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My point is, if you have the skills to fill holes in a model, you have the skills to replace parts of a model. However, if you don't have those skills, it's far more useful to have a scanner that fills the holes automatically, even if it does a lovely job. Lowest common denominator and all that.
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Dec 11, 2013 04:44
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The banding problem on my printer is getting worse. I had been printing at 0.1, which was helping a lot, but now I'm seeing some major delamination between layers in addition to the banding. The most successful fix seems to be replacing the rod in the back, but that seems pretty complicated. I'm going to try this, I think, next: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2341/poor-mans-antibacklash-nut-no-assembly-required/. Unfortunately, I don't have a weekend free to tinker on this until January.
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Dec 11, 2013 05:27
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http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hephaestus-slm-3d-printer Some high school kids think they can build a desktop laser sintering 3D printer (one which can handle steel) for about $5000. Such a device would obviously be a major leap forward for 3D printing, but I fail to see how they could possibly make it work with the laser parts available today. You'd probably need about 100W or so of laser to work with metal at any practical speed, and their budget would limit them to Chinese CO2 tubes. Any such tube with that kind of power would be way to long (around 1500-1600mm, from what I've seen) for a desktop machine. Does anyone know of anything that could make their project work?
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Dec 12, 2013 03:37
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Cockmaster posted:Does anyone know of anything that could make their project work? You mean besides flexible funding? 
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Dec 12, 2013 03:47
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Cockmaster posted:http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hephaestus-slm-3d-printer Their SolidWorks model appears to be a single solid block with vague ideas of where several unidentifiable pieces are going to be positioned. I'm not especially confident about this one.
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Dec 12, 2013 05:55
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Cockmaster posted:http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hephaestus-slm-3d-printer NdYAG laser would be more efficient since the wavelength emitted is more readily absorbed by metal (I have no idea how much a capable NdYAG module might cost). I think they are a lot more compact than CO2 also. I think a 100W CO2 barely cut thin metal foil, since most is reflected, i'm not sure how that translates to sintering though.
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Dec 12, 2013 07:41
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peepsalot posted:I think a 100W CO2 barely cut thin metal foil, since most is reflected, i'm not sure how that translates to sintering though. I doubt powder has the same reflective properties as sheet metal.
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Dec 12, 2013 09:44
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Well if I had to guess based on this quote theyre planning to use a 60w laser. Which means it's probably not going to work very well.Hephaestus SLM 3D Printer posted:If you happen to have any of the following items and are willing to donate them, please contact us at HephaestusSLM@gmail.com
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Dec 12, 2013 10:31
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Maybe if the printbed is inside a kiln, then the laser only has to raise the temp a couple hundred degrees or so. Might wanna make your linear slides out of tungsten or something then haha.
peepsalot fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Dec 12, 2013 |
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Dec 12, 2013 12:19
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UberVexer posted:I doubt powder has the same reflective properties as sheet metal. Likewise, isn't the conductivity of powder completely different? I doubt individual grains can transfer the heat nearly as effectively as a homogeneous block of metal. Stainless isn't known for it's thermal conductivity either.
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Dec 12, 2013 17:19
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Sagebrush posted:Their SolidWorks model appears to be a single solid block with vague ideas of where several unidentifiable pieces are going to be positioned. I'm not especially confident about this one. Lol that model is so bad.
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Dec 12, 2013 17:23
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I have a simple question that I hope has a simple answer  I have an old Makerbot Cupcake. The extruder/hot end part has always been the weak point and after I tried to fix/improve it it's worse than ever - actually useless now. Is there any reasonable replacement hot end I can put into this thing, or am I really just dealing with an obsolete platform, here?
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Dec 12, 2013 17:30
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Mister Sinewave posted:I have a simple question that I hope has a simple answer I replaced the stock hot end on my Cupcake with one from MakerGear back in April 2010. I doubt it would be listed on their website, but email Rick to see if they have any left around the shop. At the time it was called "1x Plastruders (formerly Nozzle Assemblies) - 0.50mm BigHead Plastruder for $120.00 each"
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Dec 12, 2013 17:46
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peepsalot posted:I think a 100W CO2 barely cut thin metal foil, since most is reflected, i'm not sure how that translates to sintering though. Yeah, the metal-capable laser cutters I've seen run 400 watts and up, and on top of that, the laser doesn't actually do the cutting. Like a cutting torch, the flame/laser energy is just used to heat the metal, and then a very finely directed oxygen blast (I think I saw one that used nitrous oxide, too) pointed into the hot metal oxidizes it into rust and blows the kerf away. That isn't applicable to laser sintering. There are SLS machines that use low-power lasers to produce metal parts, but they use a metallic powder that's pre-coated with a plastic binder, and the binder is what melts and glues it all together. Then you basically have a fragile "green-sand" version of the part that you dip into molten bronze to strengthen and fill the gaps.
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Dec 12, 2013 20:16
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I literally ordered a replicator 2x for my company 2 days ago, now it's $400 cheaper. They'd better let me cancel and get that price point.
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Dec 12, 2013 20:18
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I wonder if instead of laser, you could do some kind of induction heating head, not sure how tightly you could focus something like that though. This actually got me thinking maybe you could do a LOM style printer with laminations of Al foil and weld them together with induction.
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Dec 12, 2013 21:40
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Chickenbisket posted:Well if I had to guess based on this quote theyre planning to use a 60w laser. Which means it's probably not going to work very well. They're planning on using a diode? That would let them keep the machine at a reasonable size, but I'm pretty sure a new 60W diode would cost more that they're planning on spending on their entire machine. I've seen a couple used specimens come up on eBay from time to time, but if this is to catch on in the 3D printer community, they'd need to stick with readily available parts. peepsalot posted:I wonder if instead of laser, you could do some kind of induction heating head, not sure how tightly you could focus something like that though. This actually got me thinking maybe you could do a LOM style printer with laminations of Al foil and weld them together with induction. I've heard of machines using an electron beam in place of a laser, though I'm not so sure that would be any more practical for a hobbyist level printer.
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Dec 13, 2013 01:30
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Maybe they'll just use more lasers.
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Dec 13, 2013 01:42
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That just makes me wonder how much progress the Solar Sintering machine has made. http://www.markuskayser.com/work/solarsinter/ His news page is sadly pretty old.
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Dec 13, 2013 01:54
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techknight posted:I replaced the stock hot end on my Cupcake with one from MakerGear back in April 2010. I doubt it would be listed on their website, but email Rick to see if they have any left around the shop. Thanks for the tip, I'll see about that option.
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Dec 13, 2013 07:40
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Cockmaster posted:I've heard of machines using an electron beam in place of a laser, though I'm not so sure that would be any more practical for a hobbyist level printer. As far as I know EBDM is an extension of regular old electron beam deposition welding, and requires a build area in hard vacuum, so I'm not sure if it will ever be hobbyist-level. Well, maybe when we all live in space.
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Dec 13, 2013 13:01
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ReelBigLizard posted:Well, maybe when we all live in space. "Just put it on the porch!"
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Dec 13, 2013 14:59
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I have a 1 - 1 1/2 Kg spool of silver 1.75 PLA. If anyone wants it I can ship it to them. Just pay shipping and send me a review of it after using it a few times. It's a new supplier and I want to get an honest review from someone. I'd like it to be from someone that has been a regular poster in this thread. Just send me a PM or reply here if interested.
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Dec 17, 2013 02:16
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