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Bad Munki posted:Okay, sounds good, just wanted to make sure there wasn't a misunderstanding of intent or anything. My compressor came with a 20 dollar crappy airbrush that I use for priming and varnishing and I use the Sotar for everything else. If you're going to buy a Master compressor from Amazon look around the site and you can usually find the same model compressor bundled with different stuff, sometimes with one or even 3 airbrushes.
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Dec 12, 2013 19:52
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How about this one? I like that it has two gravity feed dual action brushes, and one bottom feed external mix that would probably be for priming and such?
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Dec 12, 2013 20:04
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berzerkmonkey posted:How so? I've got Citadel paints that were purchased in 1987 that have had a touch of water added to them once in that time and they are fine. You thin your paints with water to apply them to the model, how is water "poo poo" otherwise? VVV: Nope, I check for those. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Dec 12, 2013 |
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Dec 12, 2013 20:11
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Are the paint pots poo poo? If paint is caked on the lip you won't get a good seal. Pierzak posted:Thanks for the packing tips, that should help. I didn't think of a smaller box packed with paper/foam peanuts inside a larger one. Yeah, double-boxing can be difficult, a major bother and expensive (if you're buying the boxes and peanuts) but it is very safe. If you work at a place with a warehouse and/or IT or shipping/receiving department you're golden, you might be able to score air bag packaging, which is super light.
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Dec 12, 2013 20:12
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Does anyone recall where to find a good tiny-icicle tutorial? I've got a pot of Vallejo Gel Denso and a crippling fear of misusing it--didn't someone suggest pre-making hot-glue-gunsicles and gluing them onto the piece, or was that some other material? (I'm working on a last-minute secret Santa gift.) Get yourself some fishing line and click this lovely link 
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Dec 12, 2013 22:10
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krushgroove posted:Are the paint pots poo poo? If paint is caked on the lip you won't get a good seal. Bad Munki posted:How about this one? Speaking of airbrush stuff, I picked up a set of squeeze bottles at Harbor Freight for making Les' airbrush recipe. They were much cheaper than the wash bottles he recommended. I was a little worried that the caps would fit loosely, but they are actually the opposite - super tight and it actually takes a little strength to get off.
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Dec 12, 2013 22:41
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Iris of Ether posted:I'm participating in the Games forum's annual Steam holiday contest thread, and today's challenge is to make a video-game-themed stocking stuffer. Since I've been OD'ing on Final Fantasy lately, I thought it'd be a great opportunity to break out the Sculpey and make the most adorably ugly thing in the game: a goobbue. Cool sculpt! Looks dope. ... Progress update. Progress update never changes.      Some primed dudes: 
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Dec 13, 2013 00:42
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Oh man, I am loving that bat face so much.
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Dec 13, 2013 00:54
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I knew fishing line was involved somehow...thanks!
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Dec 13, 2013 00:55
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Hellbeard posted:Cool sculpt! Looks dope. Thanks! Now is probably a good time to add that I also think your bat sculpt is pretty sweet. I finished painting the goobbue a few days ago, because I enjoy playing with basing flock far more than completing my Oath, apparently.    
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Dec 13, 2013 01:25
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As a followup to my earlier question about assembly, how in the heck do you get tiny joints to stick? I'm gluing some of my DeadZone boxed set and while the arms/legs/guns are fine I tried to superglue some of these tiny rear end shallow ball-and-socket joint heads and they are not bonding.
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Dec 13, 2013 03:50
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Adam Kensai posted:As a followup to my earlier question about assembly, how in the heck do you get tiny joints to stick? I'm gluing some of my DeadZone boxed set and while the arms/legs/guns are fine I tried to superglue some of these tiny rear end shallow ball-and-socket joint heads and they are not bonding. Did you try washing the models in warm soapy water first? Mold release can stick to models, which can muck up glue and paint due to its oiliness.
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Dec 13, 2013 04:04
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Slimnoid posted:Did you try washing the models in warm soapy water first? Mold release can stick to models, which can muck up glue and paint due to its oiliness. Yeah, there were some flash lines so I xacto'd and sanded a little and then did the soapy rinse. Edit: There is a possibility that my inability to realize that very little superglue is enough superglue is the issue. Edit2: I'm actually having a bit of trouble with all ball and socket joints, anything that has play in it before it sets. The angular slots/sockets are easy as pie. Adam Kensai fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Dec 13, 2013 |
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Dec 13, 2013 04:08
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Adam Kensai posted:Yeah, there were some flash lines so I xacto'd and sanded a little and then did the soapy rinse. I found the best way to get CA glue to set is to use less glue (tons of CA glue does not equal better bond), then, while your holding the parts together breathe on the joint like you were going to fog up a window. Moisture (and porous surfaces) helps CA glue set, it also makes the CA fumes turn the area around the joint all white eventually but you can clean that stuff off with a Q-tip. Then just hold the two parts together while occasionally fog breathing on it. It's annoying but it beats having a gluey arm fall out of it's socket while you weren't looking.
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Dec 13, 2013 05:46
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Who wants to help me figure out a cool color scheme for my Khorne WHFB army? I was thinking either bone white, retro-as-hell stark red, or super-dark red-purple-crimson.
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Dec 13, 2013 07:22
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Iris of Ether posted:Thanks! Now is probably a good time to add that I also think your bat sculpt is pretty sweet. When you first mentioned the project, I was half-hoping you'd be doing a galka since I loved playing one in XI. Now just add some saplings and various crystals about him so I can have the complete flashback experience! How'd you get the rows of teeth done?
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Dec 13, 2013 08:47
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Iris of Ether posted:Thanks! Now is probably a good time to add that I also think your bat sculpt is pretty sweet. Thank you. I think the painting needs some more gradation. Maybe dust some pigments around there. It looks cool with the flock. Keep going a little and I think it'll be loving awesome. Jonny Nox posted:Oh man, I am loving that bat face so much. Thank you. I think it has a muppet quality about it, maybe. I like it too, surprisingly.
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Dec 13, 2013 12:34
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Lethemonster posted:Anyone got any good links to painting fleshy, bloody, muscley things? Or any well painted miniatures featuring the aforementioned. Everything I can find is either all intact or just the skeleton. Someone out there has to have kept some bits in between! Tamiya Clear Red Edit: I assume this is the style you want: http://wyrd-games.net/shop/Doppelganger.html Because I garuntee that flayed back skin is some variation of the following: White Primer -> Red ink -> Tamiya clear red blood (tutorials abound, don't use black paint use black ink or black wash) -> Some kind of dark brown wash/ink (Devlan Mud or Oil) brushed into the cracks -> Final touch up using the highlight color from the skin mixed with a little red. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Dec 13, 2013 |
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Dec 13, 2013 13:04
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Iris of Ether posted:Thanks! Now is probably a good time to add that I also think your bat sculpt is pretty sweet. Well that's adorable.
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Dec 13, 2013 13:21
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Lorgar is a much MUCH nicer model thant he paint job suggests.
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Dec 13, 2013 13:34
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  I'm going for a moldy/spore look with the white areas... Too much so far? I'm thinking of cleaning it up a bit by thinning it out. Otherwise I'm happy with it!
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Dec 13, 2013 14:06
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LordAba posted:
It looks a little too much like snow to me, also a little too diffuse. I might suggest something in yellow or black with larger patches in addition to the fine particles look you have going on. If you can stomach it, GIS "mold spore" and select "Black Mold" or "House" to see what I'm talking about.
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Dec 13, 2013 14:11
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Who wants to help me figure out a cool color scheme for my Khorne WHFB army? Bone white would be awesome - it's completely different from what you expect a Khorne army to be.
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Dec 13, 2013 14:59
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I've seen a lot of WHFB Khorne stuff done in white. It's good for showing all the guts n gore.
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Dec 13, 2013 15:08
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First non-40k model in years. (base needs finishing but the rest is done)
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Dec 13, 2013 16:05
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Pyrolocutus posted:It looks a little too much like snow to me, also a little too diffuse. I might suggest something in yellow or black with larger patches in addition to the fine particles look you have going on. If you can stomach it, GIS "mold spore" and select "Black Mold" or "House" to see what I'm talking about. I thought it was frost/snow which looks great.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:38
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richyp posted:First non-40k model in years. That hair is gorgeous. Wash + picked out some strands by brush, or all wash?
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Dec 13, 2013 17:38
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I've seen a lot of WHFB Khorne stuff done in white. It's good for showing all the guts n gore. I was thinking a perfectly clean bone white - not covered in blood and gore.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:44
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Post 9-11 User posted:That hair is gorgeous. Wash + picked out some strands by brush, or all wash? Thanks. The hair was lots of very thin colours: a very thin layer of Averland Sunset over white primer, Agrax wash, Averland, Ungor flesh, VMC Iraqi Sand and finally VMC Pale Sand. The whole model was painted in watercolor consistency paint over white. It gives a lot of nice wash like shadows with little effort.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:47
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thiswayliesmadness posted:When you first mentioned the project, I was half-hoping you'd be doing a galka since I loved playing one in XI. Now just add some saplings and various crystals about him so I can have the complete flashback experience! I first tried cutting up little bits of metal or toothpick tips, but they looked uneven and weren't sticking particularly well in the clay. I ended up having to murder a parchment paper box for its serrated edge. Hellbeard posted:Thank you. I think the painting needs some more gradation. Maybe dust some pigments around there. It looks cool with the flock. Keep going a little and I think it'll be loving awesome. Do you have pigment recommendations? I don't think I own any, actually.
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Dec 13, 2013 18:28
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Iris of Ether posted:Do you have pigment recommendations? I don't think I own any, actually. I have almost the complete set of Vallejo pigments, they're great. I think all the pigments you can get are roughly the same or equivalent, so whatever has the cheapest price and best range is probably what to go for. The AK Interactive stuff is going to be impossible to get but the same stuff is now available as Mig Jimenez's new 'Ammo' range.
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Dec 13, 2013 19:04
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Iris of Ether posted:I first tried cutting up little bits of metal or toothpick tips, but they looked uneven and weren't sticking particularly well in the clay. I ended up having to murder a parchment paper box for its serrated edge. I have some Tamyia ones which are nice but I'm hardly an expert. I think you can also grind artist pastels into powder and use that or maybe even straight up lady's makeup 
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Dec 13, 2013 19:23
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I've seen a lot of WHFB Khorne stuff done in white. It's good for showing all the guts n gore. Pre heresy World Eaters work well for this too-- splashing them with gore stands out quite nicely.
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Dec 13, 2013 19:43
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It sounds like I should hit up some tutorials to get a better feel of how pigments should be used, then run from there. Thanks for the input!
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Dec 13, 2013 20:36
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Of course I think my Agrellan Earth is broken.  How long should it take for the effect to happen?
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Dec 13, 2013 21:37
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Of course I think my Agrellan Earth is broken. There was a bad batch in the UK, I cant remember the number but if its not working after an hour take it back.
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Dec 13, 2013 21:56
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Who wants to help me figure out a cool color scheme for my Khorne WHFB army?  A box of Bloodletters was the first thing I bought after painting Blood Angels just for a break from power armor. I was against painting more red I ended up painting them with Krylon Ivory spray paint and then dipping them in Tudor Satin Minwax Polyshades. The Bloodcrusher came much later after the Bloodletters. The colors are bad in this picture but their tongues are Stegadon Scale Green. Now all of my Khorne daemons share colors from Dirty Ivory White/Copper/Gray/Minitaire Fresh Blood. Unfortunately, other than the Bloodcrusher Herald and his Fleshhounds, they never really see the table. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Dec 13, 2013 |
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Dec 13, 2013 22:29
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X-post from the 40k. Finished up my Nightspinner, unfortunately it's magic hour right now so the light is considerably more yellowish - tried a cold filter but didn't really help. Also, unfortunately the turret of the Fire Prism/Nightspinner doesn't fit the canopy so I had to cut it up a bit and in the process I snapped it in half. It doesn't look nearly as bad as it does in the photos but it still irritates me.   
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Dec 13, 2013 22:48
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I'm really digging that fade on the spinner's port flank. Is that all brushwork?
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Dec 13, 2013 23:27
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Of course I think my Agrellan Earth is broken. If you put it on thick and it isn't cracking, you get the bad batch. My local GW store has now been waiting nearly a month for replacements because they couldn't manufacture replacements fast enough, and the rest of the stock had already been allocated to the online store.
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Dec 13, 2013 23:28
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