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Ishamael posted:Oh man, I didn't know that you had to jumpstart your truck! Also, send me your email (or add me on FB) and I will send you the pic of you and Roy. Check your "other" folder on FB.
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Dec 2, 2013 17:33
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wormil posted:You might be surprised once you get your hands on a properly sharpened, quality, western style saw. From waaaay back, but I'd like to say that the first saw I was handed for this class was coarse and difficult to use, and the nicer one I wound up using was better than the first, but the japanese dovetail saw I have at home is much much easier to start a cut with. Once I was going, however, I think the english saw I used for the course felt like it would keep a line better in particularly tough or irregular wood. Don't listen to anything I say though, I've cut three sets of dovetails in my life now.  Speaking of which, here's the goods from my day at Roy's. The second set of through-dovetails I've ever cut; the tails are sloppy because I suck or due to the coarse saw I started with. You decide:   The  paparazzi shot, complete with a goon knee (not mine): My half-blind dovetails. Most of the gappiness is actually from a bit of twist in the tail board, but I chewed up the pin board trying to strike the lines with my saw:  The inside of the joint. The method Roy had us using involved overcutting the inside of the pins, but according to him it doesn't matter because "a gentleman should never stick his head into his ladyship's drawers."   To reiterate: Ishamael posted:If you get a chance, the class was a lot of fun and Roy was exactly like you expect him to be. Lots of great classes on offer: http://www.woodwrightschool.com/
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Dec 2, 2013 20:38
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This looks really great. I would be a little concerned about the baseboard heater being right behind the storage bench, but I'm sure you've given that some thought. Tim Thomas posted:Next time I have a free weekend I'm planning on building a wardrobe to the left of the window; any ideas as to whether I should keep the cabinet flat against the wall or bring it out at a 45 degree angle? The 45 would give more room but I'm afraid it would look janky given the lines of the room. If you can get the corners of the wardrobe to divide the square of the ceiling tile evenly (i.e. corner to corner) then it might look fine at 45 degrees. That's a weird ceiling for sure though. If you want better advice, you should probably share a couple more pictures of the room. All we can really see is the corner with the door.
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Dec 2, 2013 21:15
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dobbymoodge posted:This looks really great. I would be a little concerned about the baseboard heater being right behind the storage bench, but I'm sure you've given that some thought. quote:If you can get the corners of the wardrobe to divide the square of the ceiling tile evenly (i.e. corner to corner) then it might look fine at 45 degrees. That's a weird ceiling for sure though. If you want better advice, you should probably share a couple more pictures of the room. All we can really see is the corner with the door.
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Dec 2, 2013 21:59
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Anyone else watching this guy's videos? Wooden Tool Man http://www.youtube.com/user/Woodentoolcompany2/videos At first he comes off as a bit of goofball but he's actually pretty clever. I really like the height adjustment on his drum sander.
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Dec 4, 2013 20:45
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Have any of you guys tried selling any of your stuff over the internet - specifically etsy? I know there is an etsy thread already in DIY, but I'm curious from woodworkers what your experience has been? I'm thinking about trying to selling some stuff over this winter while I'm in the slow season with my regular job.
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Dec 6, 2013 06:23
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Seems like a lot of competition but doesn't hurt to give it a shot On an Etsy aside, you can sometimes find useful woodworking tools at ok prices in the vintage section
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Dec 6, 2013 06:58
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Ive sold a couple things on etsy but it is a very flooded market. Its cheap to list things though, and I dont care if they sit on there for a few months.
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Dec 6, 2013 14:26
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Like was mentioned, Etsy is cheap to list on, but there is a lot of competition, especially for reasonably priced items. The woodworking stuff being sold there I find seems to fall into one of two polar-opposite categories. A. Cheap stuff with razor thin profit margins that you have to move hundreds of units a year to make shipping worth it. (most people want fast shipping and if you don't have a USPS/Purolator/UPS/Fedex account, it's not worth it). B. Insanely expensive stuff that sits for years on the slim hope that someone is willing to Pay $1200 for a nightstand and another $500 to have it shipped. A friend used to have an Etsy shop that he sold bowls, rolling pins, picture frames, jewelery boxes, etc. and had to give it up because he couldn't make it work. He could either list at prices that would move items and lose money in shipping, or charge enough to make more than a buck an hour (time invested to make the item) but it wouldn't move. This stuff was also quality work as he had nice tools and the skills to make them shine.
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Dec 6, 2013 17:10
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Hi guys. I'm looking to build a bookshelf. I have a circular saw, drill, and random hand tools. Just looking online and in this thread, a 3/4" plywood would be a good starting point for consideration right? My circ saw came with a 24T blade, I probably need something finer? I'm obviously still in the planning stages here, if anyone wants to chime in. Also looking to get these HF sawhorses: http://www.harborfreight.com/two-piece-foldable-saw-horse-set-41577.html. I'm guessing most of the bad reviews are dumb shits that can't drill holes.
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Dec 9, 2013 04:01
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When cutting plywood with your circular saw, have the side you want to be nice facing AWAY from the saw, so for typical circa saw use, you want the nice face DOWN when you cut through it. Similarly, on a table saw, you want the nice side UP. The side closest to the center of the blade will be more prone to splintering, and that might make you sad. Don't waste money on a sawhorse, just get a couple 2x4s and some of these or similar: http://www.amazon.com/Fulton-400shb-Steel-Sawhorse-Bracket/dp/B000GATHUS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386558396&sr=8-1&keywords=saw+horse+bracket As far as the material itself is concerned, plywood is fine, just be sure not to have spans that are too long. Here's the sagulator, which helps you calculate sag based on material, length, and load: http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
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Dec 9, 2013 04:07
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You can get table saw quality cuts from a skill saw by using a straight edge to run the saw guide along so your cuts are perfectly straight. Also as was mentioned, put the good side down and tape the other side with 2 layers of masking or painter's tape where your blade will cut. This will help eliminate tearing and if done properly, you'll have to look carefully to be able to tell which side is the actual factory cut. This straight edge can be a level, a length of MDF, another sheet of plywood, or a particularly straight board you happen to own. Personally I would have cut in the other direction with the other side of the saw against the straight edge, but whatever floats your boat.
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Dec 9, 2013 14:18
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As always with woodworking, blade selection/sharpness is key. The Freud D0760X is a great circular saw blade that you can pick up for about $20 at Home Depot, and it does a pretty great job on sheet goods without splintering. You might also want to dink around with adding a hardboard plate to the sole plate of your saw and making it into a zero clearance insert for sheet goods.
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Dec 9, 2013 14:35
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Tim Thomas posted:As always with woodworking, blade selection/sharpness is key. The Freud D0760X is a great circular saw blade that you can pick up for about $20 at Home Depot, and it does a pretty great job on sheet goods without splintering. You might also want to dink around with adding a hardboard plate to the sole plate of your saw and making it into a zero clearance insert for sheet goods. Thanks for the tips Tim Thomas, Blistex, Bad Munki. I have a 6 1/2" circular saw, but freud makes a 40 tooth blade with the same kerf with good reviews. Someone also suggested scoring the line where I will cut, which cuts the fibers of the top of the wood. I am hesitant to start with the zero clearance insert only because that will mean there is no blade guard. I think I may just get some 1/4" hardboard if I want to give it a shot though. I think I will probably grab the freud blade and see how it does with the scoring method, then decide if I want to try a zero clearance insert. Also someone suggested getting a 4'x8' piece of insulation with the circular saw depth set to one tooth below the workpiece rather than dealing with sawhorses. Regarding sag, my initial thought is a shelf span around 32", with 1/4" plywood backing so I can put one screw in the middle of each shelf. I know another option is edge trim with solid wood, but I think I want this to be very simple in design. I think my next step is to try to get a design going, I want to try to get that cutlist program/sketchup plugin working to get it within 2 sheets of plywood.
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Dec 9, 2013 16:50
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So my mother asked me to refinish an old dresser that she picked up at an auction. I was expecting it to be crap like most of her furniture. It's actually much higher quality than I expected. I don't know too much about dating furniture, but it's definitely antique and handmade. The problem is that someone in the past decided to be crafty and "renovate" it. Some of the stuff that they did is cringeworthy. "Oh this cherry hardwood is so boring, I will just glob thick brown paint over every single surface."... "Hmm I don't have the keys to these original brass warded locks. I should cover them completely with paint too."... "Hmm some pieces are loose, I should recklessly nail and screw them into place, i will just cover them in paint so nobody will see." The drawers are badly damaged. I think he DIY renovator nailed some blocks to shelf underneath of them to catch the back side and keep them from pulling out and naturally all that shock and force has torn the poo poo out of them. I got some work ahead of me, but it should be fun.
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Dec 10, 2013 00:23
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pageerror404 posted:So my mother asked me to refinish an old dresser that she picked up at an auction. I was expecting it to be crap like most of her furniture. It's actually much higher quality than I expected. I don't know too much about dating furniture, but it's definitely antique and handmade. This sounds like it'll be interesting. Take some pictures throughout, please.
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Dec 10, 2013 01:27
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Hollis Brown posted:Thanks for the tips Tim Thomas, Blistex, Bad Munki. I have a 6 1/2" circular saw, but freud makes a 40 tooth blade with the same kerf with good reviews. Someone also suggested scoring the line where I will cut, which cuts the fibers of the top of the wood. I am hesitant to start with the zero clearance insert only because that will mean there is no blade guard. I think I may just get some 1/4" hardboard if I want to give it a shot though. I think I will probably grab the freud blade and see how it does with the scoring method, then decide if I want to try a zero clearance insert. I recommend the Freud 40 tooth, I've had one for about 6 months and it still works great. I've never taped or scored my cuts ever and I haven't had any tearout at all on maple or oak veneer plywood. I've used it to cut a lot of solid cherry, oak and maple. It's still plenty sharp and cuts with no tearout.
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Dec 10, 2013 02:14
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I've gone a bit woodworking crazy. I grew up watching the new yankee workshop and this old house- combine this with just finding the wood whisper, I'm hooked again. I have a ton of tools, but I'm trying to find the following to complete my small shop. 6-8" Jointer Dust collector Lathe Spindle sander Mortise machine Deep scrollsaw Anyone have some recommendations? I just missed a 8" Rockwell jointer for $400. There's a plethra of Sears/Jet jointers for $150-350 but I would prefer a older USA made piece of iron. I did email on a Powermatic 6" for $150 that needs some TLC but is in good shape. As for the rest, I'm looking at Powermatic, Jet, Delta, Rockwell. I already have a Atlas cabinet saw, Dewalt planer, Rockwell drill press, Jet 14" bandsaw, belt/disc sander, and porter cable router/sanders/jigsaws/ect. I do have a track saw on my wish list- with the Makita 6000 sitting at $375 shipped right now, I am having a hard time imaging spending the bucks on a Festool- I do love that system though. If I were a professional, I would run the entire Festool/Powermatic lineup. Maybe some day .
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Dec 10, 2013 06:33
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I'm looking to start making some gifts for the holidays and was wondering what would be the best way to create a spiral in a block of wood (4"x8"). The cut would be around 1/4" deep and I'm looking to put some stone in it as an inlay. If possible I'd like it to be a pretty tight spiral that has ~2.5" diameter. Have a pretty complete workshop, would the easiest way be to create a jig and attach a piece of string to a screw in the middle and use a router?
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Dec 10, 2013 06:58
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Lord_Xar posted:what would be the best way to create a spiral in a block of wood You mean like this: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/29458 Or more barley twist?
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Dec 10, 2013 09:34
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wormil posted:You mean like this: I was thinking more of a 2D spiral cut. Something that could be cut into a blank and filled in and polished (using azurite & malachite)
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Dec 10, 2013 16:14
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Lord_Xar posted:I was thinking more of a 2D spiral cut. Something that could be cut into a blank and filled in and polished (using azurite & malachite) You'll need something like the link I posted. Basically it's the same as cutting big wide threads. Unfortunately I don't know any more about it.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:41
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Think he means more like a snail shell. A router and a template is going to be the easiest way to do it. Cut the template out of some ply wood with a jigsaw or something. It'll be more accurate and safer than trying to rig up something with a string or whatever.
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Dec 10, 2013 20:09
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The last few weeks I've been working on building a rocking horse for my niece. I've been using scrap ends of 2x8 and 2x4 pine, which has been working out pretty well so far except that I didn't do my due diligence in checking for warped pieces, and as a result, there's some pretty significant gaps in between a body piece that I glued up (up to 1/8" in some places). Is there any kind of filler I could put in between the panels? Or would there be a way I could dissolve the glue between the boards (Titebond II) so as to hand plane it down for a better fit?
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Dec 10, 2013 20:15
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Thumposaurus posted:Think he means more like a snail shell. Ah, that makes more sense. Yeah the template route is the ticket. OSU_Matthew posted:...significant gaps in between a body piece that I glued up (up to 1/8" in some places). Simplest way would be to fill it with colored epoxy. Don't bother trying to blend it because it will be obvious, just go with obvious and make it red or black. Food coloring works to color the epoxy. You can also mix in sawdust to give the epoxy more body. wormil fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 10, 2013 22:42
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I need some ideas for father-in-law gift. Been putting it off hoping something would come to me but ... nothing. He likes cheap whiskey, hunting & woodworking (but can't do either anymore because of hip operations), ships and airplanes, and socializing/entertaining. He pretty much has everything he wants. Maybe a conversation piece, like a simple machine or automata? Can't be too complicated though because I'm running out of time.
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Dec 12, 2013 21:35
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wormil posted:I need some ideas for father-in-law gift. Been putting it off hoping something would come to me but ... nothing. He likes cheap whiskey, hunting & woodworking (but can't do either anymore because of hip operations), ships and airplanes, and socializing/entertaining. He pretty much has everything he wants. Maybe a conversation piece, like a simple machine or automata? Can't be too complicated though because I'm running out of time. Build him a box, put a bottle of whiskey in the box?
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Dec 12, 2013 21:40
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wormil posted:I need some ideas for father-in-law gift. Been putting it off hoping something would come to me but ... nothing. He likes cheap whiskey, hunting & woodworking (but can't do either anymore because of hip operations), ships and airplanes, and socializing/entertaining. He pretty much has everything he wants. Maybe a conversation piece, like a simple machine or automata? Can't be too complicated though because I'm running out of time. Why not something like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z86V_ICUCD4
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Dec 13, 2013 00:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Build him a box, put a bottle of whiskey in the box? I can't ship him whiskey but he might like a nice box. MrPete posted:Why not something like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z86V_ICUCD4 Actually he would probably get a kick out of something like that and it's definitely a conversation piece.
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Dec 13, 2013 03:26
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wormil posted:I can't ship him whiskey but he might like a nice box. Build him a box, put a gift certificate to BevMo (or something classier, I'unno) in it.
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Dec 13, 2013 04:01
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bought a clutch of handplanes for cheapsies off ebay. they're in decent shape, but one has some big chips out of the japanning and has a decent bit of rust where it was. I can get rid of the rust, but what do i use to patch the japanning?
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Dec 13, 2013 07:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Build him a box, put a gift certificate to BevMo (or something classier, I'unno) in it. He wouldn't use it. He lives on an island and buys cheap whiskey at the local market. One year I brought him a bottle of Crown Royal (because he prefers Canadian) and he wouldn't drink it. And he's really old school, I think the box would baffle him. Probably the only kind of box he would appreciate would be a pistol case ... which is actually a terrific idea. Why didn't I think of that a month ago? The useless machine might work because he loves to show off and entertain but he doesn't like whimsy so it's risky. The pistol case though, he would like that. rotor posted:bought a clutch of handplanes for cheapsies off ebay. they're in decent shape, but one has some big chips out of the japanning and has a decent bit of rust where it was. I can get rid of the rust, but what do i use to patch the japanning? I have no idea but obviously you're lying because there is no picture to prove it! 
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Dec 13, 2013 09:06
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What about a nice handmade serving tray for a bottle of cheap whiskey and a couple glasses? Or a pistol box, that does sound pretty awesome as well.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:24
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rotor posted:bought a clutch of handplanes for cheapsies off ebay. they're in decent shape, but one has some big chips out of the japanning and has a decent bit of rust where it was. I can get rid of the rust, but what do i use to patch the japanning? If you don't care about preserving antique value (you shouldn't because most hand planes are valuable for their usability not rarity) then soak it in paint stripper, clean it with a wire brush, mask it, and repaint with semi-gloss black rustoleum or auto paint. I have done this a dozen times and it works fantastic. Edit: Before you do this, make sure you don't have something really rare like a no 51, 1, 2, or any bedrock other than a 604/605. pageerror404 fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Dec 13, 2013 |
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Dec 13, 2013 18:55
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Do I need a dovetail saw to make box joints? I dont have a problem with buying one but I've never done them before. I am going to make several of these as Xmas presents - http://beer.wonderhowto.com/how-to/carry-your-beer-style-with-these-diy-wooden-six-pack-holders-0140286/ But I want the bottom to be a proper joint instead of just nailed/screwed on or whatever is going on there. Nothing complicated, just a simple joint like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxJ6qINNgmU. Not many fingers to deal with. The only tools I have right now are a jigsaw and a circular saw and a lovely basic saw for cutting. I need a new circular saw blade but otherwise it works good.
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Dec 15, 2013 05:34
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Sylink posted:Do I need a dovetail saw to make box joints? I dont have a problem with buying one but I've never done them before. No, any rip saw will do but the finer the teeth the nicer the joint.
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Dec 15, 2013 09:36
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You may want a coping saw to cut the bottom of the joints. You could also use a chisel - either because you want to or if the throat of the coping saw isn't wide enough to reach all of the joints. If the circular saw has a depth adjustment and you can figure out a way to clamp it up so that you have the support to make a straight cut safely across the end of the boards, you could use that to make the side cuts. And, nailing the bottom on is a perfectly acceptable way to go. A lot of old boxes or chests had a nailed on bottom so that it could be easily replaced when it got wet / wore out / started to rot.
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Dec 15, 2013 15:14
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Is there a go-to place to get plans (either free or for sale)? And/or anyone have a nice plan for a jewelry box? I'm a beginner and would like to build a jewelry box for my girlfriend for Christmas. I figure a box shouldn't be too difficult, but still make a nice gift. I have the basic "weekend warrior" power tools (drill, router, hand saw, sander, etc). I'd like try some basic joinery like dovetails instead of just gluing/screwing the thing together. Edit: Just read the last few pages, sorry for piling on the "oh god halp with gifts" rush 
polyfractal fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 16:24
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captainblastum posted:You may want a coping saw to cut the bottom of the joints. You could also use a chisel - either because you want to or if the throat of the coping saw isn't wide enough to reach all of the joints. You can argue that the nails in this case sort of add to the utilitarian image. Like you point out, legit old work boxes and things were just nailed together quick. Anyway I'm going to convince myself of that because I want to go downstairs and bang one out for a friend right now and it would be nice to save the time.
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Dec 15, 2013 17:33
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I dont have a problem with the nails, I made a prototype that way already but my circular saw blade is an old piece of poo poo and ripped the ends to shreds so it looks like rear end. I saw a good chance to practice some joinery so I thought I would give it a whirl, thanks for the tips I will post some pictures this week when I build them.
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Dec 15, 2013 19:20
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