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It is unseasonably cold here today. I'm going to take another "sample" on my way home. Preferably out of the way since winding out 4'th gets you about 110 MPH 
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Dec 16, 2013 19:49
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Thanks again thread for giving me more to chew on. Tires and pressures seem like a good place to start. FWIW, car is just a commuter, no track plans or anything.
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Dec 16, 2013 19:56
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Yeah there have been a few durability issues with Cobb and other hollow swaybars in the past. Plus $300 for used stuff is a little excessive. New whiteline bars would be under $400 for most sizes and you get to choose the size you want front and rear. The rear bars also come with reinforcement braces for the mounts. I think I've mentioned this a few times before, but there are a few things on the 08+ chassis that I think got taken too far in the name of comfort. The rear end has A LOT of soft bushings in it, especially the subframe to chassis mounts. There are inserts that you can install that firm things up and they are not very expensive. The next things are the bushings in the front control arms. An ALK, which is a stiffer bushing that changes the alignment slightly, goes a long way towards making the car a little more connected toward the road. Installation is a little more difficult on those though. An easy first step would be something like the 22mm rear bar set to soft. And then you can add a front bar, rear subframe bushings, and the ALK depending on how much you want to spend. The ALK requires an alignment and you should probably do one with the bushings too. A better alignment is going to improve how the car handles so I would suggest you do that anyway. You don't need to change much to make things better, really just add some camber up front and you end up with more grip and less understeer. The maximum of what the stock adjustment gets you is a good start. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 21:54
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Yakattak posted:WVK-21 does not cover the 2004 models. It is under the intake manifold and requires that to be removed. Which I've heard is a bitch but not impossible. I have the TSB that describes the repair if you want it just PM me. Also with the intake manifold off you way wanna take the time to install a turbo inlet. Yeah I talked to Subaru of America today and they said it wasn't covered but that if I take it to the dealer SoA could potentially cover some of the costs. Apparently there is another possible culprit of loose hose clamps on the full lines running up the driver's side of the engine which would be a super quick and easy fix - I'm going to investigate further today. Looking at some guides online I think I could remove the intake if I had a warm garage, but it's not something I'd want to tackle in this weather. Does $200 in labor and $50 in parts sound about right for the repair at the dealer assuming I don't get any compensation from Subaru? I'm amazed at how widespread this problem is even in 04/05 models from reading online and that Subaru only covers it for the bugeyes. If you could email me the TSB I'm internethoward at the google mail service. Many thanks.
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Dec 16, 2013 22:00
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I pulled one more datalog. Dead stop to about 6k in 4th. I have the flat foot shift set on about 4800, which I may tweak again since I felt a bit of shock loading. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B60Om3XZ9SdJd29BQWM0NjE3bFE/edit?usp=sharing Anything look glaringly bad in there? Ambient air temp was around 55F
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Dec 16, 2013 23:49
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amenenema posted:Apparently there is another possible culprit of loose hose clamps on the full lines running up the driver's side of the engine which would be a super quick and easy fix - I'm going to investigate further today. I tightened the clamps shown here and the smell seems to have gone away. They weren't super loose, but they certainly weren't tight either. I'll have to watch it on cold starts going forward, but if anyone else with a blobeye/hawkeye runs into this problem maybe this is a realistic fix?
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Dec 17, 2013 01:48
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For what it's worth, I never touched the sway bars in my 2006 Impreza wagon and everyone who has driven it has never complained. Koni yellows, STI springs, Com-C upper mounts, ALK, and a decent alignment with some camber. On the exact same winter tires as last year (probably worse this year since wear and all that), the car handles hands down better in any weather. It used to understeer like a pig in winter and now I can hang my rear end out with a good boot of throttle on the slippery stuff. In other words, thanks Jamal 
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Dec 17, 2013 03:02
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Farking Bastage posted:I pulled one more datalog. Dead stop to about 6k in 4th. I have the flat foot shift set on about 4800, which I may tweak again since I felt a bit of shock loading. Everything looks reasonably minor on there. It would be more useful though if you pulled a log from a 3rd gear run from about 2000 rpm and up. On a private closed road of course... Here's a fancy chart I whipped up. You can see it's only pulling timing when you're off throttle. From my understanding that's normal and nothing to concern yourself about. 
Amandyke fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 03:31
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Yeah, it is really easy to go too stiff. My car is basically perfect for driving on pavement but still a little too soft for track or auto-x use. On the otherhand, it is a little bit too stiff for winter. It's very well balanced due to my springs, swaybars, and alignment but gets twitchy on slippery surfaces and I get a little bouncing due to the tall, soft sidewalls on my snow tires. Still, it is a blast and very easy to control in a slide. So my recommendations are always based on the type of driving you're doing, the tires, and what you want the car to be like. Some people like things to be a little stiffer because you get a more responsive car, sometimes at the expense of ultimate grip. About the farthest I would go on a car that doesn't see frequent track time would be something like what I have on my own car- smallish swaybars, a little more spring, dampers to go with them, an assortment of bushings, good tires, and a good alignment. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 03:37
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Sockington posted:For what it's worth, I never touched the sway bars in my 2006 Impreza wagon and everyone who has driven it has never complained. Koni yellows, STI springs, Com-C upper mounts, ALK, and a decent alignment with some camber. I had a lot of trouble on my '06 with the ALK, Konis, an aggressive alignment and Racecomp wagon springs. Way too much roll to drive the car the way the dampers and springs told you it could be. You'd load it up, it would slop over on the RS3s and then you'd start wondering how long it will take before the door handles are dragging on the pavement. You had to plan ahead a lot more than on similar 06s that I'd driven with a decent swaybar setup and even then you didn't really have the confidence to get on the throttle as early as you wanted; you'd be more pinning it to force understeer when it comes time to pull the car straight. It was really neutral if you were on a low-traction surface and already sliding, but so was my stock 97 with Monroes and an alignment-by-curbs setup. I eventually bumped that one to a rear 17mm swaybar to aid turn-in on the dry and didn't really destroy the snow control. Bumping up the rear sway would have helped a ton. If I were building it for autocross I probably would have ditched the ALK for caster bushings and run beefier sways. The 03 is getting a pretty vicious handling diet this spring because the dead rear struts are pissing me off with their sharp throttle-steer transition and general lack of recoverability. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 04:09
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How painful is a clutch job on our cars using jack stands? I need to replace the stock clutch on my wrx due to bad slipping asap. Are there any tips/tricks for diy garage wrenching? Should I look at doing anything else while the block's split from the tranny? Also, assuming that the flywheel isn't pitted to no repair, how many resurfacings can it take before a replacement is due; should I just save the guesswork and grab another oem one? I'll throw on a new rear main seal while I'm down there; all of the bushings have been replaced, and it's already on the group n mount. Info: 08 wrx, 31k mi, dozens of track days for wear
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Dec 17, 2013 07:10
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I changed my clutch fork in the garage on jackstands with hand tools. Kind of sucked but I took my time which aided the frustration. Hardest part is getting the trans balanced on the jack properly to go back in. Make sure you support the front of the engine because otherwise it flops around and you can't get things aligned properly. A second jack or even a block of wood wedged between the subframe and oil pan will do it. And drain the transmission first. I have stub axles and figured I could get away with not doing it and made a huge mess. Flywheel is probably ok to resurface and that new I wouldn't touch the rear main. They last a long time and are a huge pain in the rear end to install. One extra thing I would consider is a TSK sleeve kit for the trans snout. Throwout bearing rides on steel instead of aluminum and really lightens and smooths out the pedal feel. Did you decide on a clutch? Need a price on them? jamal fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 07:29
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jamal posted:
I did. I pulled the trigger on an exedy kit through one of the vendors we have at work, supposedly at cost. I haven't noticed any harshness in the engagement, is the TSK a huge difference, or is it one of those things that helps with later wear and tear?
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Dec 17, 2013 08:42
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Kind of both. The snout on the trans gets mangled up over time, but it's pretty gradual. With a push type clutch you will need one eventually. My transmission looked like this when I got it:  I got the kit because my tob was making noise and needed replacement anyway. I didn't know what I was missing until the new one went in.
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Dec 17, 2013 08:52
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jamal posted:Yeah there have been a few durability issues with Cobb and other hollow swaybars in the past. Plus $300 for used stuff is a little excessive. New whiteline bars would be under $400 for most sizes and you get to choose the size you want front and rear. The rear bars also come with reinforcement braces for the mounts. My dealership originally quoted like 4 hours of labor which was $400 so sounds like a amenenema posted:Yeah I talked to Subaru of America today and they said it wasn't covered but that if I take it to the dealer SoA could potentially cover some of the costs. Apparently there is another possible culprit of loose hose clamps on the full lines running up the driver's side of the engine which would be a super quick and easy fix - I'm going to investigate further today. My dealership quoted me about 4 hours of labor at $99 so it was about $400 originally. Then I called SOA and they fixed that for me. It took them a day and a half to do it... Emailed you WVK-21. Yay I get to cold start my car in 8 degrees. Can't wait for all the noises 
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Dec 17, 2013 14:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I had a lot of trouble on my '06 with the ALK, Konis, an aggressive alignment and Racecomp wagon springs. Way too much roll to drive the car the way the dampers and springs told you it could be. You'd load it up, it would slop over on the RS3s and then you'd start wondering how long it will take before the door handles are dragging on the pavement. You had to plan ahead a lot more than on similar 06s that I'd driven with a decent swaybar setup and even then you didn't really have the confidence to get on the throttle as early as you wanted; you'd be more pinning it to force understeer when it comes time to pull the car straight. Your problem here was more one of expectation. There's no way this should ever be an issue on the street. If you're on a track with a setup like that, it's not shocking you'd have a gob of body roll. You're not talking about 650lb/in springs. I have a hard time believing the major difference was just a swaybar in that setup. If you're running light dampers and light springs and doing heavy track duty, the bars might make you roll less, but you're ultimately not going to get much more cornering ability from it.
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Dec 17, 2013 14:34
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si posted:Your problem here was more one of expectation. There's no way this should ever be an issue on the street. If you're on a track with a setup like that, it's not shocking you'd have a gob of body roll. You're not talking about 650lb/in springs. I have a hard time believing the major difference was just a swaybar in that setup. If you're running light dampers and light springs and doing heavy track duty, the bars might make you roll less, but you're ultimately not going to get much more cornering ability from it. Right, it was more of a confidence thing. You could feel it sort of 'pogo' on the suspension on the street if you were really pushing it, but tuning the sways would have made initial turn-in and the steady state much more pleasant to start feeding power in. Either way, sways are a cheap place to start that won't affect the ride comfort as much as springs and dampers. I also didn't cut the bumpstops when the Konis went in, so it's possible I lost some suspension travel as well. It also would have been nice to have the extended ball joints to compensate for the lowering too. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 15:15
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Sockington posted:For what it's worth, I never touched the sway bars in my 2006 Impreza wagon and everyone who has driven it has never complained. Koni yellows, STI springs, Com-C upper mounts, ALK, and a decent alignment with some camber. My wife and I have an 04 and an 09, as of now both are stock suspension. There is a complete difference in the way the two handle. I imagine that your 06 is more similar to an 04 than a 09, or at least was until you made the changes you mention. My only goal is to make the 09 handle more like the 04. As someone already suggested, I will mess with tire pressures and maybe an alignment before making any other changes. The tires are some generic all seasons on the 09, I'd imagine that some better tires will help a lot as well, but as they are only a little over a year old, I don't want to change them yet.
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Dec 17, 2013 15:22
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Farking Bastage posted:I pulled one more datalog. Dead stop to about 6k in 4th. I have the flat foot shift set on about 4800, which I may tweak again since I felt a bit of shock loading. I did some testing last night and I think the target boost reaching 26-27 is only when I am starting out from a stop in first gear. I reset the counters while at a stop light and then drove normally to the next light and looked down and saw it had already registered a max target of 26psi. The distance between lights is little more than a city block and I never got passed third gear and 4k rpm in any gear. I logged my entire drive to work today which is about 24 miles in intermittent traffic that takes approximately 40 minutes to complete. I had 5-6 instances of FBKC action over the entire drive. It never went above -1.4 and it looks like the event it responded to happened at low loads and below 3k rpm. Some digging on the Romraider forums turned up a few indepth articles stating that this kind of activity was normal even on the stock tune. I am going to cut some of the sensors I'm logging out and see if it increases the polling rate in the log.
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Dec 17, 2013 17:38
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Uhh, what in the world turbo and setup are you running that you're boosting in the mid-high 20s? I only see before that you mention an Accessport. You shouldn't be anywhere near 26psi on a stock turbo. If you are, you need to stop driving immediately as your boost control isn't functional.
si fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Dec 17, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 18:06
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si posted:Uhh, what in the world turbo and setup are you running that you're boosting in the mid-high 20s? I only see before that you mention an Accessport. You shouldn't be anywhere near 26psi on a stock turbo. It isn't actually boosting to 26psi. FB and I were noticing that when we look at boost and boost error, that the numbers were a bit crazy. I could actually be at ~4psi of boost and the boost error would be in the neighborhood of 22-23psi. So an equivalent 26-27psi target. I went and created a 2 monitor gauge display with actual boost being one and target boost being the other. The MAX target boost reading I was seeing after a drive was 26-27 which follows the previous data, but actual boost had a MAX of ~16.5psi. The boost being seen is accurate from what I can gather about the Cobb OTS map that he and I are running, the target boost was just something that seemed comically off and I was trying to determine when it was doing this and possibly understand why. I'm really spending more time learning about the knock control system and how to read the logs to interpret the health of the motor and tune.
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Dec 17, 2013 18:16
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Aflicted posted:It isn't actually boosting to 26psi. FB and I were noticing that when we look at boost and boost error, that the numbers were a bit crazy. I could actually be at ~4psi of boost and the boost error would be in the neighborhood of 22-23psi. So an equivalent 26-27psi target. I went and created a 2 monitor gauge display with actual boost being one and target boost being the other. The MAX target boost reading I was seeing after a drive was 26-27 which follows the previous data, but actual boost had a MAX of ~16.5psi. The boost being seen is accurate from what I can gather about the Cobb OTS map that he and I are running, the target boost was just something that seemed comically off and I was trying to determine when it was doing this and possibly understand why. Are you sure you aren't looking at absolute pressure? If so you need to subtract atmosphere from that, which would lead to low numbers instead of high. I've definitely not run into situations where my relative pressures were off by more than like 1psi from my boost gauge.
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Dec 17, 2013 18:20
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A log of what I am looking at is linked on the previous page. I was assuming (yes bad choice potentially) that they were corrected since the numbers are sane for all other lines really. The log has a solid pull in 3rd gear at WOT, it is the 12 or so lines with throttle at 100%. Feel free to take a look and tell me what you think. I'm learning here so anything is helpful. I've spent far too much time today on the romraider forums reading and playing with Airboy's spreadsheet while at work so I'm going to have to go provide value for my pay check. I'm not making any changes to the maps, but I did pull down accesstuner race so that I could look at all the tables when I get to learning more about those. I'm just running the Cobb OTS STG1 93 octane for a 2013 WRX.
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Dec 17, 2013 18:36
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Here's another one WOT 3rd gear starting from about 2k. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B60Om3XZ9SdJWXJZZ1N3YklCNVk/edit It's hitting target boost for that map ( 16.5 ) but at times it is calculating a boost target that is comically high.
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Dec 17, 2013 19:24
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From NASIOCCobb Tuning posted:The TD Boost Error values in that log look fine. It is common to target the desired boost level before the car can mechanically hit it. It will cause turbo dynamics to add in some wastegate duty cycle during spool. That coupled with very high wastegate duty cycles before and during spool will cause the car to keep the wastegate closed to the best of its ability. The off-the-shelf COBB maps and the stock map both do this. So that is all perfectly normal.
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Dec 17, 2013 22:27
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si posted:Except, the guy who did it estimated it to be like 50lbs heavier than the dressed EJ255 from the GT originally, and mated it to the stock AWD trans. You "knifed" the LS1 both because they don't fit and because they end up being a 2WD swap. This was neither. HAHAHAHA you believe a BUICK motor is only 20kgs heavier than a already ridiculously light boxer motor? An engine that is so light that putting a rotary in a Subaru would make it heavier???? I have a bridge for ya. Interested? I'm discussing it with people that understand what I'm after. You on the other hand clearly dont understand. Luckily for me those that do understand have put me in contact with someone with a custom wiring loom to make it work. That was going to be my biggest problem given I suck at woring..... Now I wonder if they import Tribeca long blocks or I need to find a wreck?
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Dec 17, 2013 22:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I had a lot of trouble on my '06 with the ALK, Konis, an aggressive alignment and Racecomp wagon springs. Way too much roll to drive the car the way the dampers and springs told you it could be. You'd load it up, it would slop over on the RS3s and then you'd start wondering how long it will take before the door handles are dragging on the pavement. You had to plan ahead a lot more than on similar 06s that I'd driven with a decent swaybar setup and even then you didn't really have the confidence to get on the throttle as early as you wanted; you'd be more pinning it to force understeer when it comes time to pull the car straight. A set of bigger swaybars would have helped that setup a lot. The RS3 is A LOT of tire and just those springs are not enough rate to deal with them. Taking out the bumpstops would have actually made it worse since the suspension was spending a lot of time on them and they provided extra rate. To give you an idea of what it takes to fully utilize a set of those on a track, I would be using kw clubsport dampers or better, about 500 lb/in springs all around, 24mm swaybars, and over -3 degrees of front camber. And that's erring on the soft side.
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Dec 17, 2013 23:46
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jamal posted:A set of bigger swaybars would have helped that setup a lot. The RS3 is A LOT of tire and just those springs are not enough rate to deal with them. Taking out the bumpstops would have actually made it worse since the suspension was spending a lot of time on them and they provided extra rate. Yeah, I was definitely under-utilizing the tire. If you were brave you could get a lot out of it but I know other guys with worse tires had cars that were a lot more fun and easy to drive fast with just sways and STI takeoff suspension. I'm a little surprised you think the RS3s are that capable; I thought they were great but they were really my first true 'summer' tire so I sort of assumed they were all of a similar quality.
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Dec 18, 2013 00:08
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They are the fastest, stickiest street tire there is, and don't give up much to r-comps like the R888 and NT01. In time attack, street class means you need to be on street tires with a treadwear rating of 140 or better (RS3s are 200). All the winning cars and record setting times for the last two years were on them.
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Dec 18, 2013 00:20
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The Rival sounds like it's going to be taking the RS3's crown for autocross duty within the next couple of years but yeah I sure can't complain about the RS3. Loved those tires. Cranking the Konis up to really firm (like beyond where I thought they should be going for the stiffness of the springs) seemed to make an improvement in my times but I didn't get enough data to confirm. It made the car a lot twitchier, which makes sense if you're telling me that the springs were too soft to deal with what was going on. I was basically having the dampers step in and cut out the springs' fun before they got a chance to be effective. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Dec 18, 2013 |
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Dec 18, 2013 00:23
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Hey Aflicted, Once you filter through the shitposts, NASIOC has some good info eh?
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Dec 19, 2013 02:25
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Farking Bastage posted:Hey Aflicted, It is about like the prelude forums, s2ki, club202, vwvortex, audizine, fortitude, etc... You read the writings of the OG's and ignore 99% of the poo poo posted by the shitbags who could finally afford the vehicle on its depreciated age. I still get a bit miffed every time some young douche canoe totals out an S2000. Those are going to all be lost to assholes idolizing 2f2f but don't know who Paul Walker was. I kick myself daily for being so foolish as to vanquish mine for a measely A4. (I did like that A4, but... drat!)
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Dec 19, 2013 03:27
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Something I've given some thought to: A WRX isn't going to take out these 5-6 liter monsters running around nowadays (provided they hook), but I look forward to the drive to work every morning, and being able to haul my kayak to the ocean on the weekends to boot. She's faster than most, and it didn't cost 50-60k like an Evo or a GT500 mustang, or SS Camaro, so good enough for me 
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Dec 19, 2013 04:11
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So an interesting development with my intermittent ignition failure issue - I've had the stock ECU back in for a week or so with no issues, but have noticed a couple times it has dropped it's idle a bit then gone back to normal. This morning I started it up and it was instantly into that lovely low idle - I opened the hood and went to disconnect the MAF to see if that would affect anything, and as soon as I touched it, it jumped up to normal idle. I've heard about some kind of solder issue on my year of MAF (98 EJ20K, Orange sticker MAF) and I feel like maybe this could be the cause of my frustrations. My question is, if the Apexi Power FC suddenly loses ALL signal from the MAF, it doesn't have a backup default map does it? So it would just die (like I've been having). But the stock ECU absolutely does, so i'm thinking that I've been intermittently losing MAF signal. I'll have to pull it apart and take a look at the solder connections (in the MAF).
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Dec 19, 2013 04:27
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Yeah you didn't say that you haven't checked your MAF. If you have an orange label MAF it almost certainly has cold solder joints. Stuff's getting old now. The MAF on my 97 went bad during my ownership and I can't tell you how many EJ20Gs I've seen coilpack replacements on. When my MAF went bad the car would spontaneously lose the ability to idle with a plummeting idle speed towards an inevitable stall and other weirdness during low load situations. Unplugging it made it run lovely but it wouldn't die at lights. I replaced it with an eBay MAF from a Legacy by part number and never bothered to look into why the old one died. It went back on the car when it went to the wrecker so I guess we'll never know. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 05:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah you didn't say that you haven't checked your MAF. If you have an orange label MAF it almost certainly has cold solder joints. To be fair I have an EJ20K not a G so I don't have the coil-on-plug nightmare to worry about but yeah what a pain. I'll pull the MAF tomorrow morning and figure this all out. Is there high-temp silicone that anyone can recommend?
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Dec 19, 2013 06:51
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Aflicted posted:It is about like the prelude forums, s2ki, club202, vwvortex, audizine, fortitude, etc... You read the writings of the OG's and ignore 99% of the poo poo posted by the shitbags who could finally afford the vehicle on its depreciated age. I still get a bit miffed every time some young douche canoe totals out an S2000. Those are going to all be lost to assholes idolizing 2f2f but don't know who Paul Walker was. I kick myself daily for being so foolish as to vanquish mine for a measely A4. (I did like that A4, but... drat!) The best of kind of people are the kind that bitch about STi's being to high priced and how it's not fair that they can't get a good STi for under $8,000. Those kind of people you really don't want behind the wheel of a STi anyways through.
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Dec 19, 2013 18:19
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Not sure if I had a cold solder problem but take a look and see what you think? Before: (Big)  (Big)  After: (Big)  If I had a problem before I won't have one now I suppose.
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Dec 19, 2013 21:25
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Well, they are now all globbed up, but are they even touching the poles beneath them? Those also look pretty hazy for fixing a cold solder. 
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Dec 19, 2013 21:33
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VelociBacon posted:After: I suggest reworking those. Did the joint move around while or right after you removed the heat?
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Dec 19, 2013 21:40
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