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Lorgars done-ish for now. I might come back to him once the rest of his base is finished.        He was a very fun model to paint although I did cock it up royally within 5 minutes and it was only a determination to see if I could work with the error and fix it that made me not throw it straight into paint stripper.
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Dec 20, 2013 23:16
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Any particular reason for blue on the flames (as opposed to any other color, I mean)? Otherwise, that looks legit as hell.
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Dec 20, 2013 23:20
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JerryLee posted:Any particular reason for blue on the flames (as opposed to any other color, I mean)? Otherwise, that looks legit as hell. Orange wouldnt have contrasted enough with the base and wouldnt have shown up as well on the models brass and parchment. It will also tie it in to my next project for another duel diorama.
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Dec 20, 2013 23:24
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I think I'm coming to the slow realization I'm just not going to be good at this hobby.
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Dec 21, 2013 00:30
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That's what practice is for, man. Do we need to have another page of 'first and most recent minis' to prove it?
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Dec 21, 2013 00:41
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Kaladrax's tail has four mold lines running down the entire length at 90 degree angles. I don't know that that even happens. I'm losing the will to live Edit: Can someone recommend me a putty that is brittle once it has set. Like, it's strong but if I made thin sheets of it I could snap it into shards? I tried milliput black but it sets into a kindof bendy texture. It doesn't feel fully set tbh. Maybe I got a bad batch? I want to make broken flagstones with it. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Dec 21, 2013 |
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Dec 21, 2013 01:49
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So Reaper had a pretty good sale this holiday. They sent along a stocking full of free minis with my order. And 'christmas wreath' and 'ginger cookie' paint: That's what $65 worth of Bones looks like during the Christmas sale. Includes the freebies and a free Sophie:  These are all destined for the D&D table. That should last me until Bones 2 shows up.
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Dec 21, 2013 02:36
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Looking to get a decent set of brushes as I've basically just been using whatever. Are there any good recommendations brand/size wise?
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Dec 21, 2013 02:45
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w00tmonger posted:Looking to get a decent set of brushes as I've basically just been using whatever. Are there any good recommendations brand/size wise? Winsor and Newton Series 7. If you get just one, make it an 0, but you can also get an 000 if you really need a tiny one. Learn from my mistakes and don't get "off-brand" Kolinsky sable brushes unless you get a really good specific recommendation, just go with the W&N.
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Dec 21, 2013 03:20
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w00tmonger posted:Looking to get a decent set of brushes as I've basically just been using whatever. Are there any good recommendations brand/size wise? Besides the Series 7s, I also heartily recommend Creative Mark Rhapsody kolinsky sable brushes.
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Dec 21, 2013 03:29
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Took a space wolf and a ton of green stuff and had a go at my first time at modeling myself. Battle poo poo-zu 
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Dec 21, 2013 04:15
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Throb Robinson posted:Took a space wolf and a ton of green stuff and had a go at my first time at modeling myself. As also an owner of a shih-tzu, I verify that this owns. However, you're not holding it close enough to the camera to accurately portray a shih-tzu's in-your-face-ness.
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Dec 21, 2013 04:58
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VoodooXT posted:Besides the Series 7s, I also heartily recommend Creative Mark Rhapsody kolinsky sable brushes. .... of Escoda Kolinsky Tajmir brushes, which are also excellent, a bit cheaper, and have longer (relatively speaking) bristles if that's your thing
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Dec 21, 2013 06:00
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I had to start on all those Bones somewhere. Kobolds seemed appropriate.
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Dec 21, 2013 06:43
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Throb Robinson posted:Took a space wolf and a ton of green stuff and had a go at my first time at modeling myself. 
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Dec 21, 2013 07:04
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Throb Robinson posted:Took a space wolf and a ton of green stuff and had a go at my first time at modeling myself. Is that seriously your first time sculpting? That's amazingly good.
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Dec 21, 2013 07:11
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Lethemonster posted:Can someone recommend me a putty that is brittle once it has set. Like, it's strong but if I made thin sheets of it I could snap it into shards? I tried milliput black but it sets into a kindof bendy texture. It doesn't feel fully set tbh. Maybe I got a bad batch? I want to make broken flagstones with it. Milliput white feels pretty brittle from memory, been some time since I've used it though. Failing that, making molds of sculpted flagstones then casting in plaster of paris would work perfectly, just take a pair of pliers to them once cast up.
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Dec 21, 2013 08:23
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Did someone say sculpting? Got a bit more done on Commissar Kringle. Sculpted a hat and mostly finished up the cherub.  The base has a basic texture stamped on with one of my Happy Seppuku stamps (mud/snow), but that's just to make sure it's not all just smooth. There'll be snow flocking added on over it, so I'm not too concerned about fingerprints and the like. The head needs a little clean-up here and there, but it should be easy enough to do. Scroll was done with GW Ushbati Bone and Agrax Earthshade. Names were written with a micron pen. I tried using a brush, but I just couldn't make it legible. And you can see what I consider legible, so take my word that the brushwork was even worse.  The hat, I'll admit, is not the best sculpt. But I ain't the best sculptor. Next update, I'll be showing off the bag my buddy sculpted for this, and it looks awesome. He's a much better sculptor than I am, despite having done a lot less of it. The cherub was painted with Reaper MSP Rosy Skin, with some GW Reikland Fleshshade, with the metal bits done in Reaper MSP Tarnished Steel. The metal arm was due to an accident. It broke off when I was removing it from the sprue, and I knocked it to the carpet by accident. I searched for five minutes, and ended up using a bit of sprue to replace it. The ears were taken from an Olde World Miniatures Black Rock Clans Scorcher. It's a goblin, but the ears were elfish enough for me, and he came with three alternate heads, making it an easy pick. Clipped them off the head, glued them to the cherub, then painted them up with Reaper MSP Fair Skin, with bits of greenstuff to simulate nails, and Citadel Blood for the Blood God to drive home the point. All that remains now is to repaint the wings a proper white and give 'em a wash.
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Dec 21, 2013 08:59
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Crossposting from the 40k thread: It's amazing how quick you can paint up Death Korps models when you only do one at a time! Now I just need to paint 24 more veterans   Tried my hand at some subtle OSL glow from his screen, and I think it's not bad for my 2nd attempt at OSL ever. I bungled the drybrushing a bit, but it shouldn't be too noticeable, and I kept it subtle because I was a bit cautious about going totally overboard. Should I give it a bit more? Maybe some green glow around the edges of his screen?
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Dec 21, 2013 11:28
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I've just started on my path to my first finished army. I plan to buy to a very specific list and stay true to it for awhile. Here's the start of my test scheme: I really like how the gold has turned out so far. Airbrush work is done, now I go in with a brush. What do you guys think? I plan on washing the bronze/gold with a brown, then painting details red. Especially the toga/tabard.
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Dec 21, 2013 11:28
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I think Ogre Kingdom Gnoblars are going to work perfectly as DnD/Pathfinder Goblins.  EDIT: Does anyone have any tutorials or videos demonstrating how to paint red skin/flesh? Monster w21 Faces fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Dec 21, 2013 |
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Dec 21, 2013 12:51
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JoshTheStampede posted:Is that seriously your first time sculpting? That's amazingly good. Its my first time sculpting with green stuff for warhammer. But I've sculpted in some of my other hobbies before. But I really enjoyed customizing this model, I thought it would be way harder without proper tools.
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Dec 21, 2013 14:11
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TheBlobThing posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread: I think it looks really good,I wouldn't over do it.
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Dec 21, 2013 15:01
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Welp I'm in deep for real now, I've bought a storage unit for just bits and some of the paints. And now all I'm missing is a daylight bulb and a storage rack for my primary paints. Feels like all I'm missing now is an airbrush or something.
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Dec 21, 2013 16:02
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Dale-Taco posted:As also an owner of a shih-tzu, I verify that this owns. However, you're not holding it close enough to the camera to accurately portray a shih-tzu's in-your-face-ness. Here is the finished Battle Shih-tzu. All up in your face. I'm really happy with how he came out.  
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Dec 21, 2013 16:53
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Milliput Update: I bought some fresh standard yellow-grey and it's like night and day compared to the other tubes I had. I guess I picked up dodgy, super old tubes when I bought the superfine white and normal black. The white and black are an absolutely bitch to blend together and then set to a slightly plasticky rubbery texture finish. Even cutting sections off the two tubes of putty to mix is hard and the outside is slightly cracked. The new standard yellow grey is like mushing together play dough and blends like a dream. It's snapable when set as well. So much fun to mush about, I feel like a 4 year old again. I rolled some out on a baking sheet and left it to set next to the model I was working on, but kept putting my elbow into it. I have no idea why I didn't move it out the way. Yellow grey - takes elbow prints well.
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Dec 21, 2013 18:39
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TheBlobThing posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread: From this angle, my eyes were pulled to the screen and then pulled to the green glow on his chest and make me go: "look at that OSL". You had to mention that there wasn't very obvious green glow around the edges for me to even notice it. I'm not sure it even looks incorrect now that you mention it, and I half think it might look worse or over the top to add more to the edges. Of course, you could add the green glow as a learning experiment to see if it looks better or is just too much. Front views of minis vs the actual overhead view that you see them on the table are very different things though, and you don't see the chest as much from above.
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Dec 21, 2013 19:12
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I think that OSL is pretty much perfect, from the strength of the diffusion to the hue.
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Dec 21, 2013 19:37
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I want to build me some slaaneshian chaos knights: dark elf cold one knight, dragon prince mount, chaos knight steed head and shields. Thoughts??
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Dec 21, 2013 19:43
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E: double post
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Dec 21, 2013 19:44
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I have another question! The curved edge Warmachine bases...the 30mm ones...is 30mm the outer circumference or the inner circle that you actually affix the model to? If it's the first, what the working space at the centre of the base?
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Dec 21, 2013 20:22
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Monster w21 Faces posted:I have another question! The curved edge Warmachine bases...the 30mm ones...is 30mm the outer circumference or the inner circle that you actually affix the model to? It's the outer circumference of the base, as in the actual footprint of the base on the table. I'm not sure what the inner circle is but the inner circle on a 50 is about 40 and on a 40 is almost exactly 30.
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Dec 21, 2013 20:42
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Cool, thanks for the feedback. Appreciate it. I'll leave it as is. Less is more. From the right angle, the glow is still visible from a tabletop angle, just enough for neckbeards to want to pick him up in their greasy claws for a closer look. Which is what I wanted to achieve I guess.
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Dec 21, 2013 21:08
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I painted these Infinity Loup Garou. The sculpts are amazingly good. The proportions are perfect. I'm relatively certain they are at 1:56 scale. I'm gonna do some more. It's educational.      The mud I sort of made up on the spot by mixing weathering powders (Tamyia) and some AK interactive grime streaking effect wash and fixed with fixative. I primed them with Tamyia superfine light grey which is really good but the downside of it is that it's so fine it doesn't have much tooth and paint can be removed with strong fingernail pressure. I should probably seal them with some matte varnish.
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Dec 21, 2013 22:01
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Hellbeard posted:I painted these Infinity Loup Garou. The sculpts are amazingly good. The proportions are perfect. I'm relatively certain they are at 1:56 scale. What are you plants made from?
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Dec 21, 2013 22:30
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Monster w21 Faces posted:What are you plants made from? Us plants are Silflor tufts and flowers, Woodland Scenics clumps and some generic static grass.
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Dec 21, 2013 22:47
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Unlike big-g's tanks, which start out looking great, mine start out looking like poo poo! Camo basecoats!     I swear to god it'll look good. At some point.
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Dec 22, 2013 01:52
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The Sex Cannon posted:Unlike big-g's tanks, which start out looking great, mine start out looking like poo poo! Shadaaap, it already looks good. A model that is prominently gray can be tough to finish because it takes a certain touch to make it look like it's not primer or bare plastic. But the color of the camo stripes is great and consistent. It's not easy to paint camoflague that looks like camoflague, so often it looks like disingenuine blotches of random color. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Dec 22, 2013 |
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Dec 22, 2013 03:58
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 So I found this while meandering the internet. A nice little display piece that's perfect for taking photos. I figured people might find some inspiration from this and make their own, to match their collection of miniatures; I know I'm gonna do a similar one, and maybe a few others for varying models (snow, inside a star ship, lava, etc.)
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Dec 22, 2013 04:51
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Got my first minis today, a box of striking scorpions. Well, I painted some stuff when I was 15 but that's ancient history. They look pretty cool but there's some bending on a few of them, namely the gun barrels and the swords. I looked it up online and apparently this is endemic to the citadel finecast range. Thankfully mine don't have any bubbles or holes, so if there's a way to fix the bending I won't need to return them. Anyway, how common is this really? I wanted to start an Eldar army, but the main draw of them to me are the aspect warriors, and they're all finecast, so if it's a problem I might go for something more plastic heavy.
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Dec 22, 2013 13:36
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