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Is this a 2.0L? Aftermarket up pipe?
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Dec 22, 2013 05:55
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Does anyone know what the part number (or just what to plug into Google) would be for the mudflap that goes in front of the right front wheel of an 03 Forester would be? I had a cracked fender liner and missing that flap on my car, and I didn't realize they were actually two separate pieces until I'd installed the new fender liner. All I've been able to find online is the larger fender liner, and nothing for the smaller flap.
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Dec 22, 2013 06:31
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ChunksNensja posted:Are you sure you don't actually have a blocked cat? That would explain the code and the lack of boost. Not sure why all of a sudden I'd have a blocked cat when I've been having issues intermidately since the flash. What tests can I do to figure this out?
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Dec 22, 2013 07:20
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Have you done a visual inspection of the engine bay? Look for hoses that came off or unplugged, cracks, but are you sure this is something you're up for? The redneck way to find vacuum leaks is spraying carb cleaner on hoses while it's idling, it should smooth out if you found it.
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Dec 22, 2013 15:56
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goatse guy posted:I waited five minutes. I told them I'd install them myself, but they insisted on having one of the service guys do it. They told me because it was technically a warranty item, they had to install it. Free coffee and big leather chairs in the waiting room, could have been worse, but not worth the time.
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Dec 22, 2013 17:47
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Hollis Brown posted:Have you done a visual inspection of the engine bay? Look for hoses that came off or unplugged, cracks, but are you sure this is something you're up for? The redneck way to find vacuum leaks is spraying carb cleaner on hoses while it's idling, it should smooth out if you found it. Did a visual inspection everything looks fine. Going to see what else I can do today.
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Dec 22, 2013 19:22
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MasterOfDemons posted:Not sure why all of a sudden I'd have a blocked cat when I've been having issues intermidately since the flash. Sounds like an intercooler hose came loose. This is an 08+ wrx, right? Check at the throttle body. The boost reference under the inetercooler also comes loose sometimes. And the endtanks can separate from the IC core.
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Dec 22, 2013 19:23
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Midjack posted:A lot of dealers, subaru or otherwise, will give you a loaner so you can get on with your day and they can focus on the customers who opt to wait on their car and save yours for later in the day or overnight or whatever. HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH. Sorry, just bitter about the fact that I had a 9am sat appointment to get my rear window fixed the other week and I know for a fact that the car sat for 2 hours before anyone looked at it despite the fact that I was waiting. I didn't get out of there until 12:30. They kept apologizing, saying, about how they were swamped, but then don't accept walk in oil changes when you have scheduled appointments for waiting customers! Then they proceeded to fix the wrong side. This time they gave me a loaner and I dropped it off overnight this week and they fixed the proper side. They also proceeded slip when removing the old window channel and put a nice huge scrape in the paint on the window frame on the inside. Now I'm going to have to take it back AGAIN to get that fixed. This is one of the GOOD dealers in the area too.
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Dec 22, 2013 20:16
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bull3964 posted:HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH. Write a letter to the National Subaru people. It really works.
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Dec 22, 2013 21:27
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Friend of mines uncle said he had the same thing happen on his turbo diesel truck and between the po420 code and the way the cars driving he thinks it's the cat being clogged which would mean id be ordering my downpipe sooner than expected.
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Dec 22, 2013 23:46
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MasterOfDemons posted:Update: Broken... You clean your MAF recently? I had this sort of thing happen to me when I had been tuned on a dirty MAF and later cleaned it. Suddenly the car thought it had A LOT MORE air coming in (when really it was the same exact amount) and dumped fuel into the cylinders to compensate which lead to a massive rich condition such that the fuel in the cylinders would not ignite. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 23, 2013 00:33
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So in the some what near future I am thinking of picking up a 2005 or 2006 STi. I like how both look. The uses would be DD, tuning, full autocross seasons and track time a few times a year. The things that make me want the 2005 more is the more rear biased torque split. What makes me want the 2006 more is the mechanical center lsd. Would there be other considerations I should make? Any recommendations of things I should look for?
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Dec 23, 2013 00:47
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Arse, the battery is totally dead in the WRX. It's been fine up until now, the weather's not been that cold around here, and I gave it a good 80-mile run on Friday, so it should have a decent charge. 
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Dec 23, 2013 02:18
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InitialDave posted:Arse, the battery is totally dead in the WRX. Jump it and make sure your alternator is giving you proper voltage.
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Dec 23, 2013 02:30
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14.4v, which strikes me as maybe a little high, but not  OMG hosed regulator. Battery was at about 4v before I jumped it.Sod it, it's 2am. I'm going to bed. I'll see what voltage the battery's holding prior to trying to start it in the morning. May be worth biting the bullet and sticking a new one in it, I've got 4-500 miles to do tomorrow.
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Dec 23, 2013 03:01
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InitialDave posted:14.4v, which strikes me as maybe a little high, but not 14.4v sounds perfect to me. If you don't have a parasitic draw on the battery it's probably time to replace it.
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Dec 23, 2013 03:32
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Amandyke posted:You clean your MAF recently? I had this sort of thing happen to me when I had been tuned on a dirty MAF and later cleaned it. Suddenly the car thought it had A LOT MORE air coming in (when really it was the same exact amount) and dumped fuel into the cylinders to compensate which lead to a massive rich condition such that the fuel in the cylinders would not ignite. Going to try that tomorrow. Didn't have time today to go to the store and get MAF cleaner. I'm at a loss at this point but I really don't want to take it to the tuning shop or the dealer for them to tell me they have no idea what it is.
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Dec 23, 2013 03:33
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Speaking of alternators, is an illuminated brake and battery light in the dash indicative of a alternator failure? Don't have access to a multimeter or else I'd check it.
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Dec 23, 2013 03:37
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So, I cracked the bottom of my front bumper skin backing out of a stupidly steep driveway. Car is a 2013 WRX. It doesn't look horrible, but I'll eventually want to replace it. I'm guessing I'll need to get an OEM bumper and have it paint matched? What the least expensive way to do this and have it look good as new? My snow tires are mounted on 16 inch wheels, and they drop the car just low enough to make this type of thing a little too easy to do.
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Dec 23, 2013 04:27
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il serpente cosmico posted:So, I cracked the bottom of my front bumper skin backing out of a stupidly steep driveway. Car is a 2013 WRX. It doesn't look horrible, but I'll eventually want to replace it. I'm guessing I'll need to get an OEM bumper and have it paint matched? What the least expensive way to do this and have it look good as new? I've repaired a cracked bumper cover and it's not as bad as you think. It's worth getting an estimate, and you will want to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading further (assuming you want to get it fixed).
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Dec 23, 2013 04:50
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I have managed to whack mine pretty good a few times without cracking it. I have read where people were putting a tiny lip on there's to add some rigidity to it at the bottom, but I haven't investigated that really. When I bought the car I just resigned myself to replacing it at least once in the cars life.
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Dec 23, 2013 14:48
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7 hours later and my battery was showing 11v across the terminals, and (somewhat obviously) didn't feel like cranking. Picked up a new one, currently sitting in the boot to ward off evil until I can actually swap it. Got my jump leads, though, so I can self-jump off it if I have to. This bloody car seems to be determined to make me regret buying it at every opportunity. 
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Dec 23, 2013 15:05
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Aflicted posted:I have managed to whack mine pretty good a few times without cracking it. I have read where people were putting a tiny lip on there's to add some rigidity to it at the bottom, but I haven't investigated that really. When I bought the car I just resigned myself to replacing it at least once in the cars life. Only once? That seems optimistic, unless you're like me and have a bumper held together with zip ties. Within 40,000 miles I've had a big chunk torn out on an icy parking lot, hit a coyote, and had my boyfriend back into my car.
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Dec 23, 2013 15:20
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goatse guy posted:Only once? That seems optimistic, unless you're like me and have a bumper held together with zip ties. Within 40,000 miles I've had a big chunk torn out on an icy parking lot, hit a coyote, and had my boyfriend back into my car. I live in the southland so not really any snow or ice. I live in the burbs too so no real threat of animal damage except for deer, which will destroy far more than just the bumper. The biggest danger is me being careless with a parking stone or my driveway. If I crack it I will most likely zip tie it for a while or reinforce it on the backside and make do until I can get around to replacing it on my list of things to do. Which with a 7mo and a house remodel... That would be towards the bottom for the time being.
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Dec 23, 2013 16:10
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Aflicted posted:I have managed to whack mine pretty good a few times without cracking it. I have read where people were putting a tiny lip on there's to add some rigidity to it at the bottom, but I haven't investigated that really. When I bought the car I just resigned myself to replacing it at least once in the cars life. I've managed to gently caress mine up pretty good
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Dec 23, 2013 16:25
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Aflicted posted:I have managed to whack mine pretty good a few times without cracking it. I have read where people were putting a tiny lip on there's to add some rigidity to it at the bottom, but I haven't investigated that really. When I bought the car I just resigned myself to replacing it at least once in the cars life. The 08+ bumper cover is the most fragile thing I've ever seen. Guys going sideways into a cone on an autocross course have broken the clips that retain it and smashed the cover open on a plastic traffic cone for Christ's sake. RALLY BRED SUPER TOUGH SUBARU when I saw a Hyundai of all things jump a curb and take out a chain link fence without similar damage. At least they're cheap on RockAuto unless you have a widebody car. I too think a lip might be useful from a sacrificial perspective.
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Dec 23, 2013 18:23
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I'm definitely going to need a new front bumper before I can sell my '11, for a car that sits in a garage 99% of its life it looks like its been through a war.
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Dec 23, 2013 18:36
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Well, I at least feel good that I'm not the only one.
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Dec 23, 2013 19:02
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il serpente cosmico posted:Well, I at least feel good that I'm not the only one. We're all in this together.  
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Dec 23, 2013 19:41
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Holy gently caress I never want to touch this car again or even really look at it. 5 months to do what should have been a dead simple engine transplant, gently caress me. Anything that could go wrong or be broken went wrong or was broken, and being perpetually poor made any setback take twice as long to overcome. Long story short: it runs but I suspect the donor engine has a bad injector, it idles rough and there is an insanely loud clicking noise coming from the top of the engine, like a diesel injector on crack. Is there anything else I should check that could cause this before I swap an injector from the old engine to the new one? Pre-install inspection of the valve-train and crankcase looked good so I'm fairly sure it's not the engine itself...god I hope it isn't the engine...  OTOH the Forester is essentially a new car now. Engine, transmission, driveshaft, hubs, brakes, clutch, tires, all done in the last 20k miles. The only part of the driveline that was installed by the factory is the rear differential, and I have my doubts as to how much longer it will last. Still needs shocks as well, badly.
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Dec 23, 2013 20:54
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blargle posted:I'm definitely going to need a new front bumper before I can sell my '11, for a car that sits in a garage 99% of its life it looks like its been through a war. Haha, I feel the same way. I went on eBay and bought one of those $60 "STI lips" and stuck it on there so at I least I can smash that up on stuff like slightly high parking curbs and pillows and dust and other things that crack the front bumper.
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Dec 23, 2013 23:45
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Terrible Robot posted:Holy gently caress I never want to touch this car again or even really look at it. 5 months to do what should have been a dead simple engine transplant, gently caress me. Anything that could go wrong or be broken went wrong or was broken, and being perpetually poor made any setback take twice as long to overcome. You swapped the intake? The rule of thumb is to use the intake (and all the stuff on it) that came with the car. Edit: Post a video!
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Dec 23, 2013 23:49
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daslog posted:You swapped the intake? The rule of thumb is to use the intake (and all the stuff on it) that came with the car. Nah, the only parts off the old engine that got swapped over are all the accessory drive stuff, everything else is as delivered. The donor engine I got was impeccably maintained before it was in a frontal collision. The only damage I found from that was a small chip out of the bottom of the oil pump casing, no big deal. I'm probably freaking out over nothing, will try to upload a video tomorrow.
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Dec 24, 2013 01:06
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Checked everything in the bay and underneath that I could see. Everything is connected, swapped the BOV back to stock and cleaned the MAF. Same thing, I only get 2 lbs of boost. Thoughts or is this becoming more and more of a bring it to either a dealership or to my tune guys.
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Dec 24, 2013 04:30
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MasterOfDemons posted:Checked everything in the bay and underneath that I could see. Everything is connected, swapped the BOV back to stock and cleaned the MAF. Same thing, I only get 2 lbs of boost. Have you checked your wastegate actuator yet?
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Dec 24, 2013 05:02
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With my broken turbo stud I have two options. When it's pulled to do the up pipe I can have the stud removed for $75-100 and have a new one put in. What I was thinking was buying a used TD04 with about 40k and keeping my broken stud one as a backup. Also should I be worried about more poo poo breaking when the up pipe is done?
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Dec 24, 2013 14:12
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Yakattak posted:With my broken turbo stud I have two options. When it's pulled to do the up pipe I can have the stud removed for $75-100 and have a new one put in. What I was thinking was buying a used TD04 with about 40k and keeping my broken stud one as a backup. Also should I be worried about more poo poo breaking when the up pipe is done? Clearly the only answer here is a new aftermarket exhaust from the Heads to the muffler.
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Dec 24, 2013 15:06
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daslog posted:Clearly the only answer here is a new aftermarket exhaust from the Heads to the muffler. Stock headers are staying. Nice ones are out of my budget at this point.
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Dec 24, 2013 15:43
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VelociBacon posted:Have you checked your wastegate actuator yet? Not yet, wasn't sure on how. I dropped the car off at Subaru today because it threw the code again and I only have like 4000+ miles left on my warranty. Let's see what they say.
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Dec 26, 2013 18:56
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MasterOfDemons posted:Not yet, wasn't sure on how. I dropped the car off at Subaru today because it threw the code again and I only have like 4000+ miles left on my warranty. Let's see what they say. Oh, it's under Warranty? Any mods?
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Dec 26, 2013 21:43
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