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Sir Cornelius posted:Well, that's actually Pythagoras. Nope, Archimedes. There was also a good article in Family Handyman in the December/January issue about loosening stuck bolts.
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Dec 15, 2013 21:51
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stubblyhead posted:Nope, Archimedes. There was also a good article in Family Handyman in the December/January issue about loosening stuck bolts. drat.
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Dec 15, 2013 22:23
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Sir Cornelius posted:They're yours, why wouldn't you want to fix them? My time for hobby work is limited and valuable, and sometimes I would prefer to not put hours of work into something that is at best a mediocre tool. An example would be prepping an electrolysis bath. I'm not about to do that or make brand new handles for a plane that most wouldn't pick up for $4.00. Luckily (as wormil mentioned) Sargent is a good brand, and I'd be more likely to take his word than most web results. Also the price they seem to be going for on ebay was leading me to believe that Sgt was a garbage brand.
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Dec 15, 2013 23:09
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Blistex posted:Just got an early Christmas present from a friend. Three handplanes. Looks like a #5 to me (jack plane). #6 (fore plane) is harder to find and longer. Its useful to have a jack plane and a smoother so fix up the Stanley and the Sargent. Could turn the Handyman in to a scrub plane
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Dec 16, 2013 01:29
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dwoloz posted:Looks like a #5 to me (jack plane). #6 (fore plane) is harder to find and longer. Its useful to have a jack plane and a smoother so fix up the Stanley and the Sargent. Could turn the Handyman in to a scrub plane You're right about it being a No.5. I took a brush to it to get some of the crud off and that "6" magically turned into a "5".
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Dec 16, 2013 02:15
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#5 & #4 make a good combination and will cover most of your needs. Sargents are cheaper because very few people collect them. Remembering which planes were good and which were crap can be confusing so most people just buy Stanleys because they are plentiful and decent quality. Restoring/rehabbing planes isn't too difficult so you could do the Handyman first for practice or do it last because it's the lower quality tool. Some people seem to like them and others hate them. The ones I've seen in person looked and felt cheap. I wouldn't buy one but if someone gave me one I'd go ahead and fix it up. You could radius the blade and turn it into a scrub plane but it's wider than scrubs, not that it really matters much, just a little more work to push it. The little Stanley 9 1/2 that I rehabbed awhile back was painted with Black enamel. I didn't bother removing the Japanning just painted right over it. It wasn't worth enough money to justify the extra work and it doesn't make any difference in performance. You could do electrolysis but that is a lot of work for just a few planes. I prefer to use acid (Naval Jelly & The Works toilet bowl cleaner) and a wire brush, slightly more effort but takes 30 minutes of soaking instead of 24 hours + setup time.
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Dec 16, 2013 03:11
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I think that the Handyman will be my testbed on lapping and removing the Japanning (good suggestion). I'm probably going to make them as close to original condition as possible, so it will be nice to work out all the kinks on the Handyman. . . which does feel very cheap now that you mention it. Something about the fit and tension. I've also been reading up on chemical strippers, but never head of the "Naval Jelly and The Works" combo. Will have to give it a shot. Thanks again!
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Dec 16, 2013 19:38
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Blistex posted:I've also been reading up on chemical strippers, but never head of the "Naval Jelly and The Works" combo. Will have to give it a shot. I use the Naval Jelly on upright surfaces, The Works on anything small or flat that I can soak. Works is much faster but the Jelly is sticky. Be careful using Works for more than 30-40 minutes and I recommend outdoors.
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Dec 16, 2013 21:33
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Citristrip will remove that japanning pretty easily. That is what AbsentMindedWelder used on his lathe
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Dec 17, 2013 03:23
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I had about an inch of stripper left in a can of Circa 1850 and decided to give it a try. Holy poo poo does that eat the pain off in literal seconds. As soon as the gel hit it, it was bubbling off. I knew it worked well for latex pain, but I would have never imagine that it would work so well on the japanning. I took the two wooden handles off and threw them and the brass screws into my drill and gave them a spin with some steel wool, some 1000 grit paper, and some polishing cloth. They look nearly brand new. A bit of Tung oil and they feel like bakelite handles. This is the Stanley Bailey #5, and tomorrow I think I will try my hand at lapping it. If all goes well I think it will be ready for paint tomorrow or the next day.
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Dec 18, 2013 06:42
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Blistex posted:...tomorrow I think I will try my hand at lapping it. If all goes well I think it will be ready for paint tomorrow or the next day. Lapping is easy but can be time consuming; less so if you start with 60 or 80 grit until flat then move to something finer (or stop there, it doesn't really matter).
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Dec 18, 2013 07:06
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That kind of paint stripper is basically just reagent-grade dichloromethane and some gelling agents. drat straight it'll eat the paint off in seconds. It'll also eat any grease, plastic, rubber or other polymer it comes in contact with. Try pouring some on a block of pink styrofoam insulation; it burns through like xenomorph blood on a starship hull. Nasty stuff but it sure is awesome.
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Dec 18, 2013 07:06
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I'm looking for a mobile but stable base for a couple pieces of light machinery (<100lbs). I found this: http://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-capacity-mobile-base-95288.html but it looks like there will always be two wheels on the ground, and I'd really like to have all 4 feet on the ground when it's not moving. I guess I could buy two and throw away the fixed wheel side, but that seems awfully wasteful. Anyone got any other ideas?
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Dec 18, 2013 07:30
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rotor posted:I'm looking for a mobile but stable base for a couple pieces of light machinery (<100lbs). I found this: I've seen some fairly clever homemade solutions that are similar except all wheels are off the floor until you step on a pedal. Try searching youtube or Lumberjocks.
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Dec 18, 2013 07:50
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yeah i've seen some plans but i just want to buy something, fixing my shop/garage is taking me FOREVER
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Dec 18, 2013 08:21
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wormil posted:Lapping is easy but can be time consuming; less so if you start with 60 or 80 grit until flat then move to something finer (or stop there, it doesn't really matter). I've already begun lapping and started with some 80 grit emery cloth clamped down to a table-saw top and soaked in water. I've begun removing material off the bottom and won't stop until I've gotten rid of all the pitting on the bottom, then move on up through the grits until I've gotten up to 320 grit. I'm also going to do the sides and other surfaces that are machined and not painted. I think I'll go with a black enamel paint like it originally was. The sole seems to have two slight hollows at the front and back of the sole, so I'm going to try and level that out and then get the whole thing to a mirror finish (or as close as I can). I've gotten all the Japanning off the Base, but the Frog needs to be stripped and then lapped in spots. It's going to be fun painting this thing, but I'm up for the challenge. I'll try and post some pictures tonight or tomorrow if I have the chance.
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Dec 18, 2013 15:50
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You can buy 9"x12" granite surface plates for cheap on ebay. Guaranteed flat to a couple tenths. Perfect for lapping.
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Dec 18, 2013 16:54
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dwoloz posted:Looks like a #5 to me (jack plane). #6 (fore plane) is harder to find and longer. Its useful to have a jack plane and a smoother so fix up the Stanley and the Sargent. Could turn the Handyman in to a scrub plane Keep them all. Even the handyman is good, as long as it doesn't take too much work to get it into shape. Does the Sargent plane say VBM on it anywhere? That stands for very best made and it's Sargents top of the line planes.
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Dec 18, 2013 17:42
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oxbrain posted:You can buy 9"x12" granite surface plates for cheap on ebay. Guaranteed flat to a couple tenths. Perfect for lapping. Or if you're cheap like me, go to a granite dealer and get free scraps although flatness may vary.
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Dec 19, 2013 03:58
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I've reached the 1/2 way point. Took every screw and knob and threw it in the lathe and hit it with some 320 grit paper then some steel wook. Used a brass brush on the threads, and then hit them with some G96 to prevent rust and tarnish (gun treatment spray). Refinished the wood as well and hit it with some tung oil. Turned out to be really dark rosewood. Don't know if this stuff doesn't agree with tung oil or if it was just really dark to begin with. Did a cursory sanding of the different pieces with a stainless brush in a dremel tool and then hitting it with some 320 grit in a palm sander, then 1000 grit, then a polishing grit (all in the palm sander). I'm not 100 happy with the lever cap, and will probably take a 3m polishing wheel to it later. I'm going to pick up some gloss black rustoleum and repaint it then sand the parts that are supposed to be bare metal again. I'm wondering what it will look like to blue the sole, sides and other bare metal parts. I think I'll try it out in photoshop and see. I've blued a few guns in my time, and I think a plane might look nice as well. Pics! Rust and Paint Free!  I really wish there was more brass on this thing, it looks really nice all polished and shiny.  This thing was sitting in a garage for 20 years or so and there is still extensive pitting on the sole. Will be lapping until it is gone! 
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Dec 20, 2013 01:21
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Blistex posted:Refinished the wood as well and hit it with some tung oil. Turned out to be really dark rosewood. Don't know if this stuff doesn't agree with tung oil or if it was just really dark to begin with. Huge improvement from before then after. re: rosewood & tung oil; I turned 2 pieces from striped ebony which ranged in color from dark brown to rosewood and used linseed oil/shellac to finish both. One turned almost solid very dark brown but the other piece retained it's stripes. 
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Dec 20, 2013 02:51
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Well hell with lapping until the pitting is gone. It's pretty obvious after about 3.5 hours with some 80 grit that it's there to stay. If I try and get rid of those pits and some of the deeper scratches, I'm going to run out of planer sole. I finished with the 80, moved on to some 120, and am currently finishing up with some 320. I'm not going to make it mirror, as the 80 is good enough, and the 320 is making it feel like glass. Next up paint then a proper sharpening of the blade and getting it set up to plane perfectly so it can sit on a shelf in my living room.
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Dec 20, 2013 19:06
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I'm looking to get a Dremel for general crafting, cutting plastic, wood engraving and small drilling. Which size / package is good for general purpose use?
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Dec 21, 2013 05:57
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If you are gonna leave it exposed to the elements like that god sure to put mineral oil on it.
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Dec 21, 2013 06:38
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Ethanfr0me: don't buy a wireless Dremel. That's the most important thing about dremels.
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Dec 21, 2013 12:26
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Wild EEPROM posted:Ethanfr0me: don't buy a wireless Dremel. That's the most important thing about dremels. I've got the wireless Lithium Ion dremel and have had no issues with it. I've got a corded one as well but always reach for the cordless. Batteries last a while. The older version had crap batteries, but the new Lithium Ion ones are pretty good.
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Dec 21, 2013 15:42
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pageerror404 posted:If you are gonna leave it exposed to the elements like that god sure to put mineral oil on it.  I let all the parts soak in some G96 gun treatment spray and wiped the exposed metal on the sole and sides with it as well. This stuff is by far the greatest/least involved rust inhibitor on earth. Cleans, protects, lubricates, and best of all, it smells like bubble gum! I've used it on all of my guns and tools, and have never seen a single speck of rust develop on them, even with years between application. Also I treat everything I own like it's worth a few million dollars. I would honestly take a bet that you could take some Cultural Revolution era "steel" made in a backyard furnace, give it a spray with this stuff, and leave it outside all week, and come back to see it was still rust free. Here are pics of the finished product. All I did was tape it up and didn't need to even touch it with sandpaper again as the taping worked out perfectly (for once!)  I hit it with Beauti-Tone gloss black rust paint straight from the rattle can with about 15 minutes between coats. I wanted them to be somewhat tacky so that each coat "merged" with the other so it's essentially one thick coat.  I can't actually feel the pitting any more, but continued sanding seems to indicate that it's just a result of the oxidation penetrating and discolouring the metal below the surface. Also there were some deepish scrapes (probably from hitting screws or nails) that are not going to come out any time soon. For me, this is perfect, and most people seem to agree that lapping a plane sole has diminishing returns after 80 grit and 1 hour of sanding on a shorter plane such as this.  I think I will give my hands a break from being clogged with iron filings for a while. When I do get back in the mood I'm probably going to give the Sargent a try and just let my tech students fool around with the Handyman, seeing how well they can do what I did to the Bailey.
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Dec 21, 2013 16:15
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ShadowStalker posted:I've got the wireless Lithium Ion dremel and have had no issues with it. I've got a corded one as well but always reach for the cordless. Batteries last a while. The older version had crap batteries, but the new Lithium Ion ones are pretty good. Yep I can second this. I had the Dremel brand one and it was great. I switched to milwaukee's nearly identical 12v one after buying a couple other M12 tools. I recommend either, the Dremel was slightly better but M12 compatibility is a plus. A Dremel can be used for all sorts of random junk and cordless is always nice.
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Dec 21, 2013 21:04
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Ethanfr0me posted:I'm looking to get a Dremel for general crafting, cutting plastic, wood engraving and small drilling. Which size / package is good for general purpose use? I'm really happy with the dremel 3000 (the cheapest variable speed one available right now). No wireless, but more speed control. The cheap wireless dremel is about the same price on amazon though, so it really depends on how much you want to spend and if you want full speed control I guess.
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Dec 22, 2013 02:48
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So I just saw this Hitachi 10in compound miter saw on Amazon for $109 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V5Z6RG/ref=pe_76900_97133730_pe_epc__1p_7_ti How good of a deal is this? I found this review but it seems pretty good, especially for the price, but I don't know much about Hitachi tools https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRJV9Jjy1Gw
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Dec 22, 2013 02:59
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Super Waffle posted:So I just saw this Hitachi 10in compound miter saw on Amazon for $109 I have this very saw (or at least one extremely similar), and I've been very satisfied with it. That's basically the same price I paid for mine about two years ago too.
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Dec 22, 2013 03:09
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Super Waffle posted:So I just saw this Hitachi 10in compound miter saw on Amazon for $109 It'll cut 2x6s, but you'll need to make two cuts on anything larger.
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Dec 22, 2013 03:33
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Super Waffle posted:So I just saw this Hitachi 10in compound miter saw on Amazon for $109 I have that exact saw, been pretty good to me so far. I paid that same price and it's been well worth it. I only had one problem with it when I first got it and it was an easy fix. It comes from the factory adjusted all the way to the side to save shipping space, and I actually had to take off the adjustment handle and loosen the screw underneath to get it unlocked, then put the handle back back on. I think they just tighten them down way too much at the factory, it's not happened since. It'll do up to a 2x6 like grover said, and it will also do 4x4's in one cut without a problem.
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Dec 22, 2013 06:37
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Super Waffle posted:So I just saw this Hitachi 10in compound miter saw on Amazon for $109 Seems a good deal for new but if you check out Craigslist you can probably find a sliding saw for 150-200 (I got a 12" Makita for 150). The extra capacity of a slider can be very handy
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Dec 22, 2013 06:38
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dwoloz posted:Seems a good deal for new but if you check out Craigslist you can probably find a sliding saw for 150-200 (I got a 12" Makita for 150). The extra capacity of a slider can be very handy Love my laser circular saw, too; makes it way easier to make straight cuts than just trying to follow a chalk line. grover fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Dec 22, 2013 |
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Dec 22, 2013 15:35
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dwoloz posted:Seems a good deal for new but if you check out Craigslist you can probably find a sliding saw for 150-200 (I got a 12" Makita for 150). The extra capacity of a slider can be very handy Sliding? Pffft! This is the 21st century! Everyone knows the future is "Gliding"! 
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Dec 22, 2013 16:02
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Replacement terminator arm.
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Dec 22, 2013 17:57
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Are there any great LED swing-arm bench lights that are both sealed (from dust) and don't have magnifying stuff built in? Friend got a new workbench but garage is a rental so he's not going to install hanging lights. He'll mainly be working on larger stuff like bike parts and wood objects.
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Dec 22, 2013 18:07
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LEDs suck to work under compared to fluorescents or incandescents
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Dec 23, 2013 20:51
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Oh weird. I was just thinking LED with a decent diffuser for simplicity and durability but I'm really open..are there any standouts or is this pretty much a go and buy whatever is at big box store?
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Dec 23, 2013 23:05
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