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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAWuHvVCI6g Some guys from Ford SVT worked on this one for One Lap a while back, it has the Terminator motor in it with "a few tweaks" making a pile of power.
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Dec 10, 2013 00:43
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Well that just looks like a poo poo load of fun.
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Dec 10, 2013 21:47
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Holy poo poo that sounds awesome. The whine is just so perfect.
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Dec 11, 2013 05:31
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Coredump posted:Than this should be the default answer. A v8 with all that off the line torque of a positive displacement blower in a boat like the Crown Vic? Sends shivers up my spine I tell you. Would you say it shivers your timbers?
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Dec 11, 2013 08:22
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Tried to bid on a P71 in a police auction today, my limit was a grand, they went for $1500 to $3000. Last one I saw they were selling for $650, oh well.
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Dec 11, 2013 23:34
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Is there any reason not to remove the door trim from the other three doors? Mine came without the driver door trim
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Dec 18, 2013 22:16
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You mean the molding at knee level? Be sure and get the bit on the front fenders as well. But it's just glued on, there's no holes under it like the vinyl roof of a box body, so it's easy enough. There was a factory option to delete the molding on the front doors for agencies with big livery: Also, holy poo poo you can get these things from Amazon for $50 a set.  Sure, they're cheapass knockoffs, but at 8 for the price of a single Ford one, it's worth it even if two or three are DOA.
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Dec 27, 2013 05:52
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Also, holy poo poo you can get these things from Amazon for $50 a set. Yup. I just had to change out my #5 coil and plug and went that route, no issues so far and the car actually runs better than it did when I bought it. I don't expect it to last me forever, but hey, for the price I couldn't complain.
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Dec 27, 2013 06:15
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My #7 and #8 are completely dead. Fuckin' V8 (well, V6 with a two-cylinder air compressor) idles like a Harley, flashing CEL all the time. Still drivable, but slow as balls under 3k rpm or so.
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Dec 27, 2013 06:44
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T1g4h posted:Yup. I just had to change out my #5 coil and plug and went that route, no issues so far and the car actually runs better than it did when I bought it. I don't expect it to last me forever, but hey, for the price I couldn't complain. How long you had them in? I might just go this route because for $50 why not. Been contemplating selling our CV though, so probably not anytime soon.
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Dec 27, 2013 07:12
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leica posted:How long you had them in? I might just go this route because for $50 why not. So far? About a week  The weird thing is, somehow the swap also fixed my EGR CEL. No idea how, but suddenly my car is not complaining about EGR mixture being off.
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Dec 27, 2013 10:00
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Delivery McGee posted:My #7 and #8 are completely dead. Fuckin' V8 (well, V6 with a two-cylinder air compressor) idles like a Harley, flashing CEL all the time. Still drivable, but slow as balls under 3k rpm or so. So tell me again how much you value stuff like oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. 
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Dec 27, 2013 11:29
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Delivery McGee posted:You mean the molding at knee level? Be sure and get the bit on the front fenders as well. But it's just glued on, there's no holes under it like the vinyl roof of a box body, so it's easy enough.
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Dec 27, 2013 17:34
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some texas redneck posted:So tell me again how much you value stuff like oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. I try not to think about them. And I've only driven it in emergencies since they stopped firing entirely.
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Dec 28, 2013 06:29
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T1g4h posted:So far? About a week It was probably freaking out because it was getting more oxygen in the exhaust (and thus the EGR recirc air mixture, and thus the actual engine AFR) than it expected, I wonder if they're taking HEGO AFR reading into account in the calculations for required EGR duty cycle to get the mixtures desired. If I had to guess the answer is no and it was assuming exhaust to be mildly rich for EGR duty cycle calculation purposes, then getting thrown off by the fact that it was rich and also contained oxygen.
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Dec 29, 2013 18:59
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MonkeyNutZ posted:I still haven't been able to dig up any pictures of a plain white Panther with all of the molding removed. The paint is literally falling off mine in a few places and I'm debating just getting rid of them entirely.  It actually doesn't look that bad.
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Dec 29, 2013 20:30
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Marux posted:
Now I want to rip the molding off of mine. It wouldn't be my first rodeo -- I de-wooded a Jeep SJ Wagoneer once. 12-year-old vinyl is a bitch and a half to remove.
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Dec 31, 2013 02:03
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There are some really conflicting posts around the internets about there being a hole under the rear door molding that'd have to be plugged or patched and painted. I think I might just de-flake the paint on mine and shoot a nice layer of white plastidip over them, I've had horrible luck painting plastics in the past.
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Dec 31, 2013 02:25
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Took my car in for an oil change/winter maintenance job, and my mechanic told me the reason I'm losing coolant is because apparently I have a cracked intake manifold. Now, I thought the coolant was pooled around that particular injector simply because I splashed a bit pouring it in on a 5 degree day, but now that I think about it, it's entirely possible that it is cracked. Does the quoted total job for parts and labor of approx. 600 bucks seem reasonable to you guys?
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Jan 8, 2014 23:08
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Unless I'm missing something, that seems a bit high just to replace the manifold, unless a new manifold costs 450 bucks or something. Would be an easy enough job to do yourself if you have some basic tools.
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Jan 8, 2014 23:31
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leica posted:Unless I'm missing something, that seems a bit high just to replace the manifold, unless a new manifold costs 450 bucks or something. Would be an easy enough job to do yourself if you have some basic tools. I really don't. Everything I had before when I was driving cabs on a regular basis had to be left behind, and I have no place to work on the car even if I had the tools. I did check Rock Auto and a new intake manifold is 180, so I'm thinking I purchase the parts and find a pure labor mechanic. Hopefully only will cost me a few hundred instead of over 600.
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Jan 9, 2014 00:08
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The cracked manifolds were common before Ford switched to versions with the aluminum coolant crossover. Even then, they still sometimes cracked in other places. Grab the Ford racing manifold, it's identical to the oem version and cheaper. http://www.adtr.net/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=15 It's definitely doable as a DIY job. I swapped the one that cracked on my '96 4.6L cougar I had a few years back. Just lots of vacuum lines and whatnot.
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Jan 9, 2014 14:06
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A guy I used to work with just wrecked his '04 Marauder because he decided it would be a good idea to take it out when the roads were totally iced over. It's a sad, sad day.
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Jan 9, 2014 16:54
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djhaloeight posted:The cracked manifolds were common before Ford switched to versions with the aluminum coolant crossover. Even then, they still sometimes cracked in other places. Grab the Ford racing manifold, it's identical to the oem version and cheaper. That one shows up as a product not found. If I can get money together, a decent shop manual and the necessary tools, I'd feel confident enough to try and do it myself. Well, that and some workspace. Anyways. I'm assuming this one is the one I'd be interested in, even for a 2000 P71? http://www.adtr.net/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_70&product_id=158 cbx fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 23:28
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So this week the temperature has been frigid and my car's heat is all wonky. It takes a while to heat up and then once it does the temp gauge will drop if I turn the heater on. I'm guessing it's the thermostat sticking which looks stupid easy to replace and is so cheap that I might as well just do it. I'm going to wait for a warmer day to do it though. Is there anything else It could be? It's an 03' with 109k on it (Grand Marquis). I'm going to flush the coolant in the spring but I'm thinking of paying someone to do it, this beast takes a lot of coolant and it's kind of a bitch to get it all out of the system. Maybe I'm just lazy.
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Jan 9, 2014 23:41
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cbx posted:That one shows up as a product not found. If I can get money together, a decent shop manual and the necessary tools, I'd feel confident enough to try and do it myself. Well, that and some workspace. Anyways. I'm assuming this one is the one I'd be interested in, even for a 2000 P71? Yep that's it. Make sure you check the torque specs, you may need a torque wrench. Also might wanna check cv.net and do a search on the procedure so you don't run into any surprises, looks easy enough but you never know.
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Jan 10, 2014 00:30
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Does anyone elses heat suck while you are in traffic? Idling is fine once it warms up and normal driving is fine.
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Jan 10, 2014 05:43
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leica posted:Yep that's it. Make sure you check the torque specs, you may need a torque wrench. Also might wanna checec. and do a search on the procedure so you don't run into any surprises, looks easy enough but you never know. The fact that it's plastic takes a huge amount of guesswork out of it actually. Keep tightening one corner down until you hear the first crack, then move to the next one.
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Jan 10, 2014 05:51
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I use that method for plastic interior bits too, works like a charm!
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Jan 10, 2014 06:49
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Going to look at a 2000 Grand Marquis with 56K on the clock tomorrow for $5300. Appears to have only a single tailpipe, so I'm guessing it's got the low gear diff in it as well. Anything specific I should check out on a drive?
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Jan 11, 2014 03:36
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Transmission shudder. If it's bad walk away, but if it's minor a fluid change will probably fix it. Other than that I'd offer a grand lower because even with the low miles that price is pretty steep for a '00 GM. Unless it's perfect, in which case if it's worth it to you go for it, that car will run forever.
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Jan 11, 2014 03:44
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Agreed. $5300 is a bit steep.
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Jan 11, 2014 13:47
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Captain, your boat has been docked and is ready to set sail.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:44
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My wife's grandmom can no longer drive, so we are going to sell or donate her '94 Grand Marquis. As the family car guy, I've been tasked with making sure it's OK. It's been sitting for almost a year, and had a few minor issues before then. Once we replaced the long dead battery, it started right up. Drove and stopped fine, so no major work, at least. I'm driving int to work a few day to make sure nothings bonkers, and get some fresh gas in it, etc. Will change the oil. Both driver's power windows are reluctant to go down, and won;t go up - I think I know what that issue is, and have ordered the little clutch rollers for the gear assembly. Hopefully it's not the gear itself. I'll know when I get in there. Power mirror on the driver's side doesn't work at all, and the passenger side only goes left and right, no up an down. Is the mirror switch a common problem? I intend to look at it and the wiring when I pull the door panel for the PW, but any info beforehand would be appreciated. The only other issue is that the ABS light comes on when driving. I'm assuming that one or more of the sensors is pooched. How do I tell? It stops fine, but you know how people are about warning lights. Headliner is trying to come loose in the back. I'll try to get some glue in there before it gets worse. Beyond that, the car is nice. Power everything, leather, aluminum wheels. Shifts fine, engine is strong (only 59K miles!)The suspension is floaty, but it's a Grand Marquis. Dunno if it's got the air ride in the rear, but if it does, it's working fine. Stored outside but under a carport, and serviced regularly by one mechanic she trusted. A true grandma car. I can definitely see the appeal of these things. With a bit stiffer suspension, I'd drive it everywhere.
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Jan 20, 2014 20:50
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My 07 cvpi starts right up, wont shift out of park. I check the brake lights and they wont come on but the running lights come on with the headlights. Replaced the brake switch sensor no change. None of the fuses look blown. I cant shift into neutral by turning the key to acc like the owners manual says. I think its a bad wire by the brake pedal sensor.
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Jan 25, 2014 18:31
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I think I am going to put mine up for sale this week.  I just don't really have a use for it now that I got a job in town. Also the parking deck at the new hospital is really tight and the fiat is way easier to park and gets awesome milage in town.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:34
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I'll give you  for it
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Jan 26, 2014 02:57
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Huggable Bear King posted:So this week the temperature has been frigid and my car's heat is all wonky. It takes a while to heat up and then once it does the temp gauge will drop if I turn the heater on. I'm guessing it's the thermostat sticking which looks stupid easy to replace and is so cheap that I might as well just do it. I'm going to wait for a warmer day to do it though. Is there anything else It could be? It's an 03' with 109k on it (Grand Marquis). I'm going to flush the coolant in the spring but I'm thinking of paying someone to do it, this beast takes a lot of coolant and it's kind of a bitch to get it all out of the system. Maybe I'm just lazy. update, I totally hosed up and over-torqued the bolts breaking both of them. This also had the fun side effect of cracking the intake manifold. I gave up at this point and had it towed to a garage. It was expensive..She is running nice though and the heat is fantastic so there is that
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Jan 26, 2014 16:59
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So I'm seeing conflicted info (as always) as far as how to go about with a trans flush. Obviously Mercon V fluid, looking like anywhere from 14-18 quarts. I'm seeing anywhere from dropping the pan, draining the torque converter, changing the filter, to taking it to a dealer for a flush, to disconnecting one of the lines going into/out of the radiator and flushing it through that way, all with a combination of stopping/starting the car and shifting through all the gears. So now I'm clueless as to the best way to go about it, and I've never done any trans fluid changes or flushes so all this reading has me paranoid that every old drop needs to be out and I need to install an additional cooler as well.
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Jan 30, 2014 21:23
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Any of you guys have any suggestions on removing the double sided sticky strips that hold the door trim on? My front driver's side one was busted halfway off by a deer a month or two ago, so I decided to finally just yank all 4 strips and give the car a cleaner look, but the problem is i'm left with what looks like sticky tape on all 4 doors from where the trim was. I've got a big can of 3M Adhesive cleaner and it seems to be softening it up somewhat at least, just wondering if there's a really good way to clean this poo poo off i'm missing.
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Jan 30, 2014 23:47
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