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Trying to separate inner race from wheel flange on my son's 540i. Bought a bearing separator kit from harbor freight, but biggest is too small. Anyone know if this one will do the job? http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html Any other tips for getting it off the flange? Also, anyone had any success with DIY pixel repair?
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Dec 25, 2013 14:15
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Put a small groove in it with a dremel, then hit that with a cold chisel. It's hardened steel and will crack pretty easily. That puller should fit, but if the inner race is stuck on good it will be difficult. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Dec 25, 2013 |
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Dec 25, 2013 15:08
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Powershift posted:And that's what a V8 is for. A V8 is one way to compensate for a lack of skill... Motronic posted:I'd rather be sitting down low. Too bad everyone's SUV lights are in my drat eyes. Badly aimed SUV headlights are the bane of my existence 
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Dec 25, 2013 21:45
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Stealth Like posted:I have the non-adjustable LED ones from here http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_LED_angel_eyes.html . There was an old design that they had that were kind of janky, and one of them broke. I called them up however and they no questions asked sent me the new version of them which are much better, and didn't even bother me with shipping the old ones back. They're quite bright and white. Just be prepared for the replacement procedure, as it can be quite tough getting them in/out as there isn't a lot of room in the headlight enclosure. Yeah, I want it light blue because the incandescent rings against the rest of the blue lighting is downright strange looking.
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Dec 25, 2013 22:25
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Das Volk posted:Do any of you guys have suggestions on angel eye bulb replacement? I noticed the other day my new M3's bulbs are still incandescent color and I'd like some that more closely match the color of the headlights. I know some people go nuts and put in super HIDs or whatever but I'm looking for something that's just a drop-in replacement. It's an e92 right? I put these on my e90 Khoalty CREE LED and they match the xenon's really nicely I think. I would assume it's the same procedure, but I had to remove the front wheels and then the lining to change it out. Once that stuff is out it's super easy. I emailed them a question about something else, and let them know that unless I'm missing something, it was way longer than a 5 minute installation to do all that.
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Dec 26, 2013 01:45
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Just pulled the alt off my manager's E46 in the dark - gonna throw a new one in tomorrow. It's a facelift 325 with the M56 motor but I don't know what year the thing is... how do I figure out which of these to buy? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2004-BMW-325I/Alternator/_/N-jlkjhZ9ci9i The alt has no snorkel and I can't find a PN on it anywhere - it's a Valeo though.
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Dec 26, 2013 04:02
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BlackMK4 posted:Just pulled the alt off my manager's E46 in the dark - gonna throw a new one in tomorrow. It's a facelift 325 with the M56 motor but I don't know what year the thing is... how do I figure out which of these to buy? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2004-BMW-325I/Alternator/_/N-jlkjhZ9ci9i According to bmwfans.info this is the correct part number: 12 31 7 541 696 155A The failed unit you're looking at might have been a replacement part so that might explain why it doesn't have the snorkel.
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Dec 26, 2013 04:42
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Stealth Like posted:I have the non-adjustable LED ones from here http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_LED_angel_eyes.html . There was an old design that they had that were kind of janky, and one of them broke. I called them up however and they no questions asked sent me the new version of them which are much better, and didn't even bother me with shipping the old ones back. They're quite bright and white. Just be prepared for the replacement procedure, as it can be quite tough getting them in/out as there isn't a lot of room in the headlight enclosure. Good luck with that. I went to a few auto parts stores and only one of them carried an H8 bulb. That one set of bulbs was the gross yellow that comes stock.
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Dec 26, 2013 08:25
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Cojawfee posted:Good luck with that. I went to a few auto parts stores and only one of them carried an H8 bulb. That one set of bulbs was the gross yellow that comes stock. I have these in my 135i: http://burgertuning.com/BMW_Angel_Eyes_H8_Bulbs.html. They are still yellowish when the headlights are on, but still a lot better than the stock bulbs. Plus they are only $30.
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Dec 26, 2013 11:33
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doogle posted:I have these in my 135i: http://burgertuning.com/BMW_Angel_Eyes_H8_Bulbs.html. They are still yellowish when the headlights are on, but still a lot better than the stock bulbs. Plus they are only $30. They turn yellowish because the lights drop from 12 volts to I think 10 volts when the regular lights come on. The only way to deal with this is to get LEDs that are designed to deal with the voltage drop. Unless there's a way to code it out.
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Dec 26, 2013 18:18
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Performance Technik track day for their customers at Thunderhill.
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Dec 26, 2013 21:22
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Das Volk posted:Performance Technik track day for their customers at Thunderhill. "Would you like to know more?" <clicks blue E36> 
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Dec 26, 2013 22:54
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Every new detail that comes out about the M235i makes me want one more and more. It seems like the perfect alternative for someone who wants an E46 M3 with updated amenities and styling and better fuel economy. I can't decide which is better: manual or automatic. I think my plan right now is to wait a few years and get a used one of each.  Or maybe I'll buy an E30 M3 and stick it in a barn before they become much more expensive (no matter what, I WILL own one of those before I die)....
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Dec 26, 2013 23:38
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So I got the bearing race off my 540i. Ended up taking it to the machine shop who welded some ears to it and pressed it out. Had to make them take $10 when they tried to bill me $5. Way worth it. Finally got the new bearing on and........ very little change. The rear shudder is no where near as violent, but it is still there. Only happens now when I take off at a full stop. My mechanic told me some rotors ship with coating that makes you have to bed the brakes in hard and my complaint is indicative of brakes just not bedded in yet. He suggested I try to go from 50 to 10 about 10 times. I did, but not much change. I do think it is getting better. Wrench says rear CVs hardly ever go out on e39s, and he would think it more likely I either got a bad replacement bearing or the brakes are just going to take more time. I am going to drive around a bit more and will take it in if it doesn't improve unless you guys have a suggestion? The old bearing was shot so I did not feel too bad. I replaced the guibo about 15k ago, but the trans was replaced about 5k ago, so I cannot vouch for something maybe wrong with the drive line. Also, there was some smoking coming from the front brakes after my attempt at bedding then in. Could it be my imagination that it is the rear? EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Dec 27, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 00:34
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While shopping for roadsters I came across an E36 M3 vert in the area. Anyone have ownership or driving impressions of these?
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Dec 27, 2013 02:30
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blk posted:While shopping for roadsters I came across an E36 M3 vert in the area. Anyone have ownership or driving impressions of these? I love it. I've never driven one of the coupes or sedans, so I can't give a comparison, but it's a great car, and a good looking convertible--not awkward like many convertibles. A few issues you'll need to be aware of that are specific to the convertible: The motors for the soft-top and control arms on the motors can wear out or break. They aren't hideously expensive to replace, but they aren't real cheap either--think ~$400 or so. The soft top is EXTREMELY expensive to replace. Most of this is labor, and no, you cannot do it yourself unless you've got quite a shop and several car-inclined friends. I was "lucky" enough to have mine randomly slashed, so insurance picked up the bill and paid ~$3500. Around $2000 of that was labor--it took a shop that knew how to do it 2 1/2 days to take the old one off and fit the new one, and they didn't even get it perfect, my own mechanic had to bring in a specialist to adjust it so it would go up and down without rubbing on things and stressing the motors, and it still isn't quite right, we're just waiting until the spring to adjust it again. The soft top is not very good at keeping road noise out. The place where the A-pillar meets the soft-top and the door can start leaking if the rubber lining on the windshield starts to dry out and crack. You shouldn't buy this hoping to take it to the track. It's going to have more body-roll than the coupe, and it's a bit heavier. You SHOULD buy this to enjoy with the top down as much as possible and listen to that beautiful I6 as you redline it at 7k RPM. Driving it on curvy mountain roads with the top down is an absolute joy. Kenshin fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Dec 27, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 02:45
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Kenshin posted:I've owned one for a little over 4 years. '99, 5-speed manual. Thanks - what would you pay for a 1999 in your favorite color w/ 122k miles and 3 previous owners?
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Dec 27, 2013 07:27
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blk posted:Thanks - what would you pay for a 1999 in your favorite color w/ 122k miles and 3 previous owners? I managed to talk the guy down to US$8000 due to some cosmetic issues (scrapes on the bumper, parts of the leather seats wearing through). If it's in really great condition, maybe as high as $10,000? But really, try not to pay more than around $9,000, less if they haven't replaced the cooling system yet.
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Dec 27, 2013 07:44
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Kenshin posted:That's remarkably similar to mine when I bought it--135k miles and 3 owners. YGPM
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Dec 27, 2013 08:14
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EvellSnoats posted:My mechanic told me some rotors ship with coating that makes you have to bed the brakes in hard and my complaint is indicative of brakes just not bedded in yet. He suggested I try to go from 50 to 10 about 10 times. I did, but not much change. I do think it is getting better. Brakes wouldn't cause a shudder on acceleration unless they were dragging really badly.
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Dec 27, 2013 13:55
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Electric Bugaloo posted:Every new detail that comes out about the M235i makes me want one more and more. It seems like the perfect alternative for someone who wants an E46 M3 with updated amenities and styling and better fuel economy. Is the standard 2-Series Coupe expected to come out in manual? Where did you find the fuel economy numbers?
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Dec 27, 2013 16:43
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EvellSnoats posted:So I got the bearing race off my 540i. Yeah its not your CV joints. When was the last time you took this thing in for an alignment and checked your tires? These cars are notorious rear tire chewers and will shred rear tires in a blink if something is out of adjustment.
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Dec 27, 2013 16:48
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Tab8715 posted:Is the standard 2-Series Coupe expected to come out in manual? Where did you find the fuel economy numbers? I don't know about the standard 2-series but I imagine that if the current 1-series does, it'd be kinda weird for it not to. As for the fuel economy guess, I'm basing it on the numbers for the M135i- which is essentially the exact same car except as a hatchback with less sexy aesthetic touches. The automatic can apparently hit 35-37 mpg if you're not perpetually tearing rear end.
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Dec 27, 2013 20:04
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My dad is starting to look at replacing his 1999 Passat with a newer car. He's the type of person that buys a 2 year old car and drives it in to the ground. How likely is it that he'll be able to buy a 1-2 year old 5-series and drive it for the next 10 years with only regular maintenance? I know E39s had a good rep, but are there many early E60s out there? Are F10s going to be much different?
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Dec 27, 2013 20:38
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My E60 was pretty decent. Depends on what you get, the 525i/528i definitely feels pretty underwhelming. The refreshed models seem to be gaining better reviews over the earlier models. The CCC (main iDrive) computer does like to poo poo itself at the worst time for no reason. To be honest though, they are decent cars. Even the 6HP26 (auto) is pretty stout too, as long as its looked after. Again, its a pretty stout car, theres obviously faults, (cooling system, suspension bushings, etc) but they have been proving to be decent cars. I cant speak in terms of the F10
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Dec 27, 2013 20:48
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Where to people get Xbraces for E36s? I imagine there aren't any reasons not to instal one right?
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Dec 27, 2013 20:48
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Just about any BMW parts site, or off someplace like bimmerforums. Get the part # for it off realeom from a vert and shop around. The only reason to not run one is if you are running in Stock or Street Touring for autoX. They are specifically banned in those classes. Otherwise, run one. Just be careful with the drat chassis inserts - one of mine was stripped (I assume from PO using impact gun on it) and I'm going to have to helicoil it. Follow the torque specs as they are quite low (~30ft-lb for an M10) and those weldnuts aren't very robust.
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Dec 27, 2013 20:57
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Kenshin posted:You shouldn't buy this hoping to take it to the track. It's going to have more body-roll than the coupe, and it's a bit heavier. This should be empty quoted every page. That being said, I redid my own soft top in a weekend. It sucked and I ended up just not putting the headliner back in. I would highly advise against it. I owned mine for ~2 years, redid all the front suspension. I'm pretty sure it had a torn RTAB pocket because hitting a bump on the highway resulted in what felt like the rear end shifting 2 feet over in the lane. I had to mess with the top motors/alignment like 3 times, pretty tedious. It had the infuriating 5 gear detent lean, I didn't know about it until after I did my clutch so it stayed like that the whole time I owned it. They're every potential problem you can have with an e36m3 times like 3. But, the times when it does work and the top is down, it is truly an amazing thing and I will own another estoril on dove example in a few years when I can afford to restore one the right way. Protip: make sure it comes with/immediately purchase the wind deflector that goes in the backseat, its awesome. I could go top down nearly year round in Georgia with it. (Which probably made those times when the top was stuck down lots better  )
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Dec 27, 2013 21:12
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Residency Evil posted:My dad is starting to look at replacing his 1999 Passat with a newer car. He's the type of person that buys a 2 year old car and drives it in to the ground. How likely is it that he'll be able to buy a 1-2 year old 5-series and drive it for the next 10 years with only regular maintenance? I know E39s had a good rep, but are there many early E60s out there? Are F10s going to be much different? F10 is one billion times more complicated than E60 I would hate to own one way out of warranty if it had shitloads of electronic options on it. Your Dad should buy my lightly used 2013 F10 6-speed unless he's a fancy boy that needs nav, heads up display, self closing doors, massaging seats, active suspensions, and parking sensors  ....I'm moving back to a two car allocation model but will be back in a loaded F10 in a few years. That being said the F10 was loving great on a nice 350 mile road trip I just took. So drat comfortable...and 30.3 MPG averaging 67mph really economical for a luxo-battle cruiser. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Dec 27, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 21:15
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SuperDucky posted:
Agreed. Mine came with one and it's fantastic. Allows normal level conversation with the top down at 70mph
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Dec 27, 2013 21:21
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Yeah its not your CV joints. When was the last time you took this thing in for an alignment and checked your tires? Tires are pretty new as is 4 wheel alignment. After speaking with my son more, the car drove fine for a while after my brake job and then started shuddering. I just assumed it had something to do with my lovely skills. The wheel bearing was shot but the shuddering, thumping remains, although it is not like the wheel hop I was experiencing prior to the bearing change. After riding in the passenger seat and back rear seat, I am now convinced it is the guibo or center support. The guibo was replaced about 10k ago, and the noise seems more toward the mid of the car, but I will probably start there in the morning. I think I may switch cars with him for a few months and sort everything out. When its cold the 540i makes you think it is a true piece of poo poo, but once it gets moving the thing is drat nice. Quiet, powerful and handle superbly. drat it likes to throw codes and lights at you though. I hate lights telling me low coolant when I have replaced the whole system and the sensor three times. Likewise it telling me the rear brake lights are out constantly when they are fine.
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Dec 28, 2013 01:32
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My 2005 E46 330ci is rapidly nearing a tire change, and I'd like to replace the wheels while I'm at it (they're all kinds of rashed from the previous owner). It currently has stock 17" style 98 wheels with 205/50 tires. A set of brand-new takeoff 18" wheels (front: 225/45 8JX18 ET:34, rear: 255/40 8.5JX18 ET:47) with new Bridgestone Potenzas off a 2013 428i M-Sport came up recently on CL near me for what seems to be a good price within my budget, and I dig the style ( I want to stay with OEM rims). I know dick all about tires: should I be able to slap these on my car without scraping anything? Both styles are five-lug. It seems like an easy swap to me after eyeballing clearances, but I don't want to be an idiot. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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Dec 28, 2013 04:46
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Width and offset are fine but those tires are taller than stock e46 sizes. Should be 225/40/18 and 255/35/18. Up to you but I always prefer to run stock size for the street and keep weird sizes for autox.
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Dec 28, 2013 05:04
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Crustashio posted:Width and offset are fine but those tires are taller than stock e46 sizes. Should be 225/40/18 and 255/35/18. Up to you but I always prefer to run stock size for the street and keep weird sizes for autox. I do 90% of my commuting on a motorcycle, and only really take out the 330 on rainy days/cargo-y errands or dates around town/the occasional road trip/spirited canyon driving. Basically since I got into motorcycling, the 330 has become a garage queen... why do you prefer stock sizes? If it's a comfort/MPG sort of thing, I'm not worried about it.
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Dec 28, 2013 05:16
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Is it normal to stagger the wheel sizes on an AWD? I'm definitely not great with this, and all I know is that different wheels are bad. I want to buy 18's, but even tire rack shows them as staggered. Also, bonus dumb question, in the spring I might look at trading my 08 e90 335xi for an e92 335 of similar year. Would I be able to transplant the wheels/tires I buy now onto one if the occasion should arise? I know the answer is going to be yes, but better safe than sorry. So with all that said, anyone want to suggest a set of black wheels? My e90 is Titanium Silver, and I'm trying to subtly and tastefully add as much black "trim" as possible. Black and white badges, black shadowline trim, tinted windows and the kidney grills. Everything is matte black, not a fan of glossy black. For example, I do like this Sparco, its a good start for what I'm interested in. I'd love to get any suggestions that's not more than like $1000.
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Dec 28, 2013 06:36
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I would not run staggered wheels on a BMW that didn't have some massive power upgrades. From what I hear it adds too much understeer and removes some of the fun out of the driving.
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Dec 28, 2013 13:41
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revmoo posted:I would not run staggered wheels on a BMW that didn't have some massive power upgrades. From what I hear it adds too much understeer and removes some of the fun out of the driving. It also prevents you from rotating tires when you inevitably start wearing out the rears first. I got 8.5" front wheels for my e36 as soon as I could find them so I could just run 245s all around.
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Dec 28, 2013 15:06
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Yeah, staggered is dumb. I had 245/225 staggereds on the E36, and my two nays: --can't rotate --find an idiot tire shop, tell them to put new 225's on the front,and they put 225's on your rears instead and you get to scream at them for VWing the poo poo out of your Proper German Car
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Dec 28, 2013 15:37
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Jonny 290 posted:Yeah, staggered is dumb. I had 245/225 staggereds on the E36, and my two nays: It depends on the car. Most 135i's running higher boost will have staggered setups - a combination of limited front room and needing to get a lot of torque to the ground
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Dec 28, 2013 16:11
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135i's come stock with 225/245.
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Dec 28, 2013 16:22
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