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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah but the CX500 has knee warmers. And came turbo'd!
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Jan 2, 2014 01:30
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Hey guys about to be a fist time bike owner. What stuff should I buy to keep my bike running and theft prevention? I already know what safety gear I need, but that's about all I know at this point.
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Jan 2, 2014 06:08
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Band aids, beer, a factory service manual/clymer's, disc lock (alarmed would be nice) or a fuckoff huge cable lock. And/or, preferably and.
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Jan 2, 2014 07:18
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It you have to park it outside, park it in a visible area, don't hide it away. If possible either cable lock it to something, or park it somewhere 3-4 people can't just pick it up and shove it into a van. For general idiot prevention a rain/dust cover really helps versus kids who want to fiddle with it or drunks hopping on it.
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Jan 2, 2014 14:22
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Wokrider posted:Hey guys about to be a fist time bike owner. Work in progress: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3557070
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Jan 2, 2014 17:33
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Get low-ish deductible comprehensive insurance. It's usually quite cheap.
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Jan 2, 2014 17:47
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Thanks for the help, I'll check all this stuff out.
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Jan 2, 2014 22:46
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A while ago I bought some shitheap 50cc pit bike (still need to replace the rings on it) and I'm strongly considering buying another frame that is a little bigger, if not full size. This is more of a project than to have something reliable that I need to depend on, though my ultimate goal would be to have something that is or can be made road-worthy (excluding highways) that I can take trail riding and/or have something to fire up when it floods down here in FL. Light road use, too. I'm wondering what my options are for Honda frames I can throw a horizontal cylinder Chonda engine into, since they're easy and cheap to find and work on. Cr80/125 and Elsinore frames are easy to find, though they come with vertical cylinder engines mounted, and I'm not sure if the beam that would be in the way of a horizontal engine can be cut off the frame and still be safe. I've seen a few PA50 and Express frames though those seem to take gy6-style engines and I'm not sure they would accept pit-bike style engines. There were a few other oddballs too like the xr80 and st90, but the same engine fitment questions apply. Cub-style frames I'm not able to find and it seems like I'd be able to fit what I want into a cb50 chassis, but I can't find those either. Supermotards seem like they'd suit what I'm looking for so I could build one of those, too. I'm just hoping to just have something that I wouldn't look silly on for wearing the appropriate gear and with decently-sized wheels. As far as what I've got, it's a crf50 clone with a crappy fender sub-frame that I'd need to replace, lovely wiring, and the handlebars are welded to the front fork and rusted so I'd get rid of that, too. The muffler also cracked off of the exhaust though it could probably just be welded back together. I apologize for the mini-novel and would appreciate any tips/advice.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:58
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Why not buy a TTR125 or something else? It'd probably be pretty cheap and I dunno what street titling is like in FL but that'd be a much better ride than some knockoff with a chinese honda engine shoved in it. Unless, of course, the goal is to do the project, but given that you said you still need to replace the rings...
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Jan 3, 2014 19:54
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Start with a different bike. I dont know what the registration laws are in FL, but I cant imagine they're lax enough to allow you to register a pitbike for street use. Nor would you want a pitbike for street use, really. Get a real street-legal minibike if thats what you want (I can HIGHLY recommend the Suzuki RV90), or get a supermoto if you want a supermoto. I get what you're trying to do, but to do it with a pitbike that isnt even in good shape for a pitbike will be a huge uphill battle.
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Jan 4, 2014 00:02
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I suppose I can't safely assume that this Royal Purple 20w50 is going to be safe for my clutch, can I? http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-...#productDetails I also suppose I can't safely assume that this motorcycle specific Royal Purple 20w50 is actually a 12 pack for $14, can I? http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-01316-1316-Synthetic/dp/B000E2F1WG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1388818448&sr=8-12&keywords=20+w+50
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Jan 4, 2014 08:02
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Safety Dance posted:I suppose I can't safely assume that this Royal Purple 20w50 is going to be safe for my clutch, can I? Uhhhhh. I'd order that right now. Its either a pricing fuckup or something else. Also, if its just one you're only out $6 for trying.
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Jan 4, 2014 08:33
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I think it's a fuckup. If you look at the item description the dimensions and weight line up with a single bottle.  edit: BUT YOU KNOW WHAT ORDERED ANYWAY Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 08:49
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I went ahead and ordered Mobil 1 V-Twin at $10/bottle instead. I hope the $20 case of Royal Purple exists, but I don't feel like gambling.
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Jan 4, 2014 08:56
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If it doesn't exist, I'm just gonna return it since the UPS store is right down the street. I figure it's worth trying for $2 in gas.
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Jan 4, 2014 08:57
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Safety Dance posted:I went ahead and ordered Mobil 1 V-Twin at $10/bottle instead. I hope the $20 case of Royal Purple exists, but I don't feel like gambling. Good god, get some loving Rotella-T and call it a day.
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Jan 4, 2014 09:30
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Start with a different bike. I dont know what the registration laws are in FL, but I cant imagine they're lax enough to allow you to register a pitbike for street use. Nor would you want a pitbike for street use, really. Sounds like an awfully Grom-sized problem tbqh
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Jan 4, 2014 17:01
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Snowdens Secret posted:Sounds like an awfully Grom-sized problem tbqh I was gonna say that but I feel like everyone is sick of my grom love. Really, just get a grom, it's exactly what you want, a street legal, horizontal Honda-engined minibike. With the added bonus of fuel injection! It will be a million times better than any china pitbike could ever dream of being.
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Jan 4, 2014 17:14
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"Sup CA, I wanna make a pit frankenbike with this motor I have, any ideas?" "Spend 4k on a grom" They should start show up used soon at least.
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Jan 4, 2014 18:00
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BlackMK4 posted:Good god, get some loving Rotella-T and call it a day. Seriously. Unless your car or bike takes some sort of crazy specific oil (VAG products, I'm looking at you) there's no reason to stock anything in the garage but Rotella T or T6 or whatever the hell they're calling the 5-40 synthetic. It's certified for use in everything from Cat diesels to motorcycle engines and I've never once read a single negative thing anyone had to say about it. I've used it for years in my shitboxes and despite my best efforts at neglect the engines are spotless inside.
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Jan 4, 2014 18:21
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nsaP posted:"Sup CA, I wanna make a pit frankenbike with this motor I have, any ideas?" But will they have been celebrity ridden? Bugdrvr posted:Seriously. Unless your car or bike takes some sort of crazy specific oil (VAG products, I'm looking at you) My oil hell is owning a VAG car (with a plethora of specialty fluids) and a Rotax Aprilia. Just need to pick up a KTM to complete the trifecta.
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Jan 4, 2014 18:40
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Bugdrvr posted:Seriously. Unless your car or bike takes some sort of crazy specific oil (VAG products, I'm looking at you) there's no reason to stock anything in the garage but Rotella T or T6 or whatever the hell they're calling the 5-40 synthetic. My bike can take 15w40 but it honestly, truthfully shifts way better with 20-50. But my garage is nothing but Rotella T6 for every car and every other motorcycle so I agree
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Jan 4, 2014 19:06
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nsaP posted:"Sup CA, I wanna make a pit frankenbike with this motor I have, any ideas?" More like "sup CA I want to do this thing that is impossible" "Spend 4k on a grom that is exactly what you're looking for" Please note the grom was not my first suggestion.
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Jan 4, 2014 19:37
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Grom's only $3200 MSRP anyway
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Jan 4, 2014 20:30
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Try to buy one for that. Maybe used, the ones I've seen for sale are asking 3.7-4k minimum. With under 500 miles usually. Bunch of fun they must be.
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Jan 4, 2014 21:40
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You guys have it all wrong. It's not a minibike, it's a full sized bike for midgets.
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Jan 4, 2014 23:03
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So the dude says its mainly for a project. He just wants to build, man.
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Jan 5, 2014 08:10
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Snowdens Secret posted:My oil hell is owning a VAG car (with a plethora of specialty fluids) and a Rotax Aprilia. Just need to pick up a KTM to complete the trifecta. You can run Rotella in a Rotax Aprilia. I found it to be the be oil for finding neutral somewhat easily.
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Jan 5, 2014 16:13
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Whee, the bike now starts and runs (fairly) smoothly. The idle is a bit rough but I haven't even touched the carburetor (aside from putting some carb cleaner through it). Now for more cleaning. Do you guys have any recommendations for chain cleaning tools? The chain is pretty rusted, and I'm gonna pull it off to clean it but wanted to see if there's something out there to make the job easier.
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Jan 5, 2014 20:47
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Use a brush with stiff plastic bristles. Don't use a wire brush of any kind. Seems to work well enough. Won't you have to break the chain to remove it from the bike? Or do you have some crazy sort of bike where this isn't necessary? Also a question from me: what's the best thing to lube clutch and brake lever pivots with? And what about the clutch cable? It probably isn't necessary but this ninja is the first bike I've had that's been in such stellar condition that I feel the need to worry about stuff like this.
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Jan 6, 2014 01:37
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I've never pulled the chain off before, so this will be new territory for me. I thought drive chains usually had a master link that they could break apart at though. My service manual says it does, at least.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:16
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They have either a clip type master link (small, low-powered bikes) which can be pulled apart, or a normal master link which is pretty much an ordinary link that isn't fully assembled. You assemble them by pressing them together and flaring the rivets; removal is only possible by cutting and pressing out the master link and destroying it in the process. If you just want to clean your chain, it isn't worth the trouble. If you want to be really anal, take off the front sprocket cover and clean out the huge mound of goo in there, then clean your chain as normal.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:33
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Slavvy posted:If you want to be really anal, take off the front sprocket cover and clean out the huge mound of goo in there, then clean your chain as normal. True that about the huge pile. First time I looked under the front sprocket cover on my bike I thought I was seeing a case of motorcycle ebola. So much goop it looked like the engine had liquified and crapped out its internal organs. prukinski fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jan 6, 2014 |
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Jan 6, 2014 02:44
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Slavvy posted:Use a brush with stiff plastic bristles. Don't use a wire brush of any kind. Seems to work well enough. I use old toothbrushes, they're slow but they get the job done. I'm fairly sure I've bought this at least twice but I can never find it in my collection of moto-junk when I want it.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:52
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Slavvy posted:Also a question from me: what's the best thing to lube clutch and brake lever pivots with? And what about the clutch cable? It probably isn't necessary but this ninja is the first bike I've had that's been in such stellar condition that I feel the need to worry about stuff like this. Quoting myself here because I really have no idea and the internet seems to be full of conflicting info.
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Jan 6, 2014 03:28
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You can just lube them with a bit of moly or white lithium grease. They make cable lube for cables, typically with a little attachment to get the lube into the cable. Sometimes the cables dont require lube and will get rapidly worse as the nylon treatment gets wrecked by the cable lube.
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Jan 6, 2014 05:07
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Thanks for the advice guys - I'll probably end up getting another bike later on after getting my pit bike going and taking it for a few trail rides. It'll be a while, though. The Grom is looking pretty good..
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Jan 6, 2014 15:50
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Bugdrvr posted:Seriously. Unless your car or bike takes some sort of crazy specific oil (VAG products, I'm looking at you) there's no reason to stock anything in the garage but Rotella T or T6 or whatever the hell they're calling the 5-40 synthetic. The Buell needs 20w50. If I could find the synthetic Rotella in that weight, you bet your rear end I'd try it, but afaik it just comes in 5w40. It worked great in my Vstar though. Out of all the oils I've put in my Uly's swing arm, the Mobil 1 seems to hold up best for my riding patterns. AMS and Castrol break down and exit the breather as nasty snotty goo that makes me a little uneasy. @Safety Dance: H-D Formula+ works great in the primary case. It's like $10/qt (so no worse than M1) and I do mine every other oil change. Pretty sure that was the factory fill.
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Jan 6, 2014 18:00
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clutchpuck posted:@Safety Dance: H-D Formula+ works great in the primary case. It's like $10/qt (so no worse than M1) and I do mine every other oil change. Pretty sure that was the factory fill. What's the capacity on the primary? I couldn't find that in the shop manual when I looked the other night, so I ordered an extra quart of Mobil 1.
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Jan 6, 2014 20:19
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It is just shy of 1qt capacity. Easy way to fill it to the correct level: via the clutch inspection hole (the larger one on the side of the primary case) until it reaches the bottom of the hole or starts dribbling out while the bike is on the side stand. You can reuse those inspection cover gaskets until they start leaking too much. I haven't changed mine at all in the last 2 years and they don't even seep.
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Jan 6, 2014 20:29
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