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I find poplar easier to work with than pine but check your lumber yard as it's not uncommon here to have other woods like soft maple on sale cheaper than poplar.
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Jan 1, 2014 06:03
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| # ? May 16, 2024 09:34 |
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I'll have to check, I will probably go with poplar because my last few experiences with pine have been less than stellar. Another question, I got a bench/table saw for Christmas but it does not have a protective splitter blade thing for kickback. I don't know that this particular model ever had one, should I try and obtain/fashion one or just try not to die ?
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Jan 1, 2014 08:35
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Sylink posted:I'll have to check, I will probably go with poplar because my last few experiences with pine have been less than stellar. Dont scrimp on safety with things that can very very very easily take off a finger or worse. Whats $100ish compared to using your hands for the rest of your life?
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Jan 1, 2014 09:08
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Get a riving knife, cost be damned.
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Jan 1, 2014 10:42
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Sylink posted:I'll have to check, I will probably go with poplar because my last few experiences with pine have been less than stellar. Probably. On the other hand you should be able to position yourself (and your hands) outside the potential path of kickback if you're careful. This is a good idea anyway. I had my miter saw kickback recently when making a 45 degree cut. It was able to kick the piece to the side because of the 45 degree angle. That caught me by surprise.
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Jan 1, 2014 17:58
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Sylink posted:I'll have to check, I will probably go with poplar because my last few experiences with pine have been less than stellar. Splitters are easy to make. Here are some tablesaw statistics I posted on another forum, I'll repost them here. -In 82.5% of tablesaw injuries the saw was acquired new. -Average age was 55. 30% are over age 65. -Almost 66% did not use a blade guard, 20% did use a riving knife, 24% were using anti-kickback pawls. -86% of the accidents happened while ripping, in 15% of those cases the operator was not using a fence, 40% involved kickback, 65% of the kickback incidents pulled the operator’s hand into the blade. http://www.cpsc.gov/PageFiles/108980/statsaws.pdf
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Jan 1, 2014 18:40
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I'm sure it's been posted before, but this video of kickback scares the hell out of me. Guy got extremely lucky that he didn't lose a finger or two. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4
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Jan 1, 2014 18:44
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It's also why SawStop is astonishingly cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE E: the same guy from the kickback vid above did a review of the sawstop saw. Kinda cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0S9u7TRl1bs and part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnlTGndRi38 thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jan 1, 2014 |
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Jan 1, 2014 18:50
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wormil posted:Splitters are easy to make. I have a fence fortunately, I did find this page and I have some thin wood around so I think I will do this before anything else - http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00066_sb1.asp
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Jan 1, 2014 19:03
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I just got to play with the sawstop pro cabinet saw at my local overpriced exotic lumber and woodworking tool store. On top of being safe and all that cool stuff, it's an amazingly nice saw. I really want to check out one of the cheaper ones eventually.i
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Jan 1, 2014 19:04
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Hypnolobster posted:I just got to play with the sawstop pro cabinet saw at my local overpriced exotic lumber and woodworking tool store. On top of being safe and all that cool stuff, it's an amazingly nice saw. I really want to check out one of the cheaper ones eventually.i We use Sawstops at my local community college (where I take WW courses) and they're so nice, really solid, well built and precise. Tho' I did pick up my Powermatic 66 for a great price when they sold off all the old table saws to replace them with the Sawstops. There used to be a great video that showed exactly why kick back happens and how to avoid it made by one of the professors at the college (he used styrofoam blocks that were safer that chunks of wood) but he took it down because he was worried about liability.
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Jan 1, 2014 19:23
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So, newbie question... Just moved into a new house, and I thought we get a fridge that would fit perfectly, but it doesn't quote work. I've already removed the molding, but the trim of the wooden cabinets is still in the way. Here you can see the dent where the delivery guys tried to get it in:  Here's the bottom - it's one continuous piece of trim, and it's glued on to the counter:  From the other side, you can see the trim sticking out:  I want to fit the fridge in, but I don't want to mess up the cabinets so much that I have to replace them entirely. How can I cut the trim almost flush to the side without removing and replacing the trim (and without making it look like crap)? I assume this is router work, but I can't figure out how I would guide a router on a vertical surface like that. Any tips?
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Jan 1, 2014 20:08
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How much material needs removing? Unless you can fit a saw of some sort into the gap between the end of the countertop and the width you need the trim to be, you'll probably need to plane or sand it down, I would guess. I assume it's flush on the other side?
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Jan 1, 2014 21:00
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Rotten Red Rod posted:I want to fit the fridge in, but I don't want to mess up the cabinets so much that I have to replace them entirely. How can I cut the trim almost flush to the side without removing and replacing the trim (and without making it look like crap)? I assume this is router work, but I can't figure out how I would guide a router on a vertical surface like that. Any tips? The easiest way would be to grab a flush trim bit (they are used for this exact kind of thing) to cut the majority of it and then clean up the corners and around the counter top by hand unless you have a smaller, palm grip router lying around that can make a pass by your counter top. Keep it flat and don't 'climb cut' it if you aren't comfortable with using a router vertically. If you aren't wanting to do that, you might be able to use something like a rotary Dremel with a similar bit. Might not come out as clean initially, but it's probably a lot safer. Johnny Bravo fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jan 1, 2014 |
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Jan 1, 2014 21:33
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wormil posted:-In 82.5% of tablesaw injuries the saw was acquired new. As probably the 9th owner of my 1930's Unisaw, I ... 
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Jan 2, 2014 02:53
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Cobalt60 posted:As probably the 9th owner of my 1930's Unisaw, I ... Yeah I was trying to make something of that statistic in my head but without knowing the percentage of woodworkers who buy new vs used it doesn't really amount to anything. For the most part there was nothing surprising in those percentages. I would expect most of the accidents to happen while ripping, seniors to have more accidents, most not to have a blade guard (because I suspect most eventually remove it), but what I didn't expect was that 15% of the ripping accidents happen without a fence. Who the hell rips without a fence? That's like reaching under a running mower ... it's an accident if you don't get hurt.
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Jan 2, 2014 08:49
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wormil posted:Yeah I was trying to make something of that statistic in my head but without knowing the percentage of woodworkers who buy new vs used it doesn't really amount to anything. Of course, my response was a joke, but I'd bet that the actual core of that stat is poorly-trained contractors who buy poorly-made on-site tools, immediately remove the annoying safety features, and proceed to destroy themselves.
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Jan 2, 2014 09:10
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mod sassinator posted:I'm sure it's been posted before, but this video of kickback scares the hell out of me. Guy got extremely lucky that he didn't lose a finger or two. Sweet holy jesus, this gave me sweaty palms and a pounding heart just watching it. 
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Jan 2, 2014 19:57
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I've had a fair amount of time in the shop with a forced two week holiday from my company. I'm almost finished my keezer and I've started building a morris chair out of some cherry. Here are a bunch of pics. Here are a couple of cherry pepper mills I turned for Christmas presents, I gave them away and forgot to take a finished picture.  I've spent the last couple days doing a ton of tenons for the morris chair, I think I'm getting tenonitis. I hand cut all of them with my dovetail and tenon saw. I just started doing the mortises, boring most of it with a forstner bit and cleaning it up with a chisel.    Just a coat or two more of poly on the keezer and it will be complete. I gave it a wetsand at 400 today and the finish is turning out nicely. I'm still not sure what to do for the edge molding on the bar top. Next time I try working with veneers I'm going to have to try using a flattening solution on them. I tried to clamp them real tight to get rid of the waviness but that did not work at all. It's super wavy and cracked in a few spots. I wasn't planning on having the centre diamond, but the centre was so wavy it pretty much fell apart when I tried to scrape the glue off.  
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Jan 3, 2014 01:47
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Lot of jibber-jabber elsewhere about the new Delta saw, anyone seen one in person yet? http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws/item/36-725-2?category_id=1
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Jan 3, 2014 04:49
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I've spent the last couple days doing a ton of tenons for the morris chair, I think I'm getting tenonitis. I hand cut all of them with my dovetail and tenon saw. I just started doing the mortises, boring most of it with a forstner bit and cleaning it up with a chisel. You might try experimenting with Paul Seller's mortise chopping technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYpxhYHMNmI
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Jan 3, 2014 07:27
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Cpt.Wacky posted:You might try experimenting with Paul Seller's mortise chopping technique: This is how I do them. Goes pretty fast, but you REALLY have to pay attention to the grain direction.
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Jan 3, 2014 15:15
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wormil posted:Lot of jibber-jabber elsewhere about the new Delta saw, anyone seen one in person yet? I have mixed feelings based on that photo and what I read about it online. The price seems good for a hybrid saw, but Delta stuff tends to fetch a premium so I wonder what corners they cut. That base looks like it could be wobbly, but maybe if you had a nice level spot and never moved it you'd be able to adjust it to be stable. I've heard horrible things about obtaining Delta parts and that would probably keep me away from it.
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Jan 3, 2014 15:19
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So I'm currently working on a bedside table/lamp table/set of drawers, whatever you like to call them. I was originally going to make the drawers themselves out of MDF or chipboard and just have a hardwood front on them (Tasmanian Blackwood, to suit the rest of the job). I changed my mind a few days ago however, and decided on hardwood drawers in their entirety with dovetails joining the front to the sides. However - I've not done dovetailing before. I'm doing it currently with just a pull-cut razor saw, and it seems to be doing the job. Slowly getting there - first practice attempt was shoddy, second attempt also shoddy but better, and I reckon the third practice will be the one that projects me onto getting it done for real. Learning from my mistakes!  Practice join #1. Obviously just smashed together, not sanded or otherwise finished. It was tight, so I beat on it with a mallet - but didn't think to check around the entire joint to see what was restricting it. First major mistake, ending in a giant split in that bit of ash.  Second attempt. You can see a big bit missing in the \```/ section of the bottom piece - that's from carelessness rather than mismeasurement. Accidentally knocked it off with an errant chisel. Otherwise I think it's come up 'workable'. If there's any hints that people have that make this process turn out better than a person's skills would normally allow, it'd be fantastic. If there's any glaring issues that I seem to be overlooking, please tell me! I'll continue trying and hopefully it works out for me in my completed project. Cheers. Edit: Also, that kickback video above - holy poo poo that dude is lucky. My eyes almost popped out of my head when he lost the pushing block - and almost his fingers.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:48
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while we're on the topic of kickback, here's a loving idiot doing something loving retarded, looking like a douche while he does it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9D_vnevx4vI
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Jan 4, 2014 02:42
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LordOfThePants posted:I have mixed feelings based on that photo and what I read about it online. The price seems good for a hybrid saw, but Delta stuff tends to fetch a premium so I wonder what corners they cut. That base looks like it could be wobbly, but maybe if you had a nice level spot and never moved it you'd be able to adjust it to be stable. I know what you mean about the legs but I believe they have feet on the bottom. In the only review I've read it mentioned the base is very stable. The iron tubing attaches directly to the top, the sheet metal cross braces everything. The fence appears to be a T2 or variation of it. My guess is they put their money into the fence and motor, shaved dollars with thin sheet metal and stamped metal wings, plus the tubular steel frame/legs are probably not very costly, the trunnions are still a mystery. edit: Guitarchitect posted:while we're on the topic of kickback, here's a loving idiot doing something loving retarded, looking like a douche while he does it: I don't even know what to say. wormil fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 08:07
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So I really messed up my bench grinder today. It's the plain old Ryobi 6 inch unit, and it has terrible arbor flanges that induce significant side to side wobble as installed. Trying to fix this, I got one of the wheels wet so I could remove the adhesive from the label. It was taking forever to dry out (3 days so far) so I decided to bake it! I'm an idiot, and now I have to clean up burnt epoxy from the bottom of my oven, where the spindle fitting melted out of the wheel. This leads me to a couple of questions: 1 - can anyone recommend a good set of replacement arbor flanges with 1/2 inch inner diameter and 2 - 2 1/2 inch outer? The stamped steel garbage that came with the grinder has a significantly oversized inner diameter, which places uneven pressure on the wheel causing the wobble I was seeing. 2 - in the meantime, is it safe to run a bench grinder with just one wheel installed? It is securely mounted and all... I'll update later with pictures to clarify the issue with the arbor flanges.
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Jan 4, 2014 19:39
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dobbymoodge posted:So I really messed up my bench grinder today. It's the plain old Ryobi 6 inch unit, and it has terrible arbor flanges that induce significant side to side wobble as installed. Is it possible to lap the arbor flanges flat?
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Jan 4, 2014 19:59
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dobbymoodge posted:2 - in the meantime, is it safe to run a bench grinder with just one wheel installed? It is securely mounted and all... I can't imagine any reason why that would be a problem. It is normal to run grinders with a heavy grinding wheel on one side and a light wire/cloth wheel on the other.
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Jan 4, 2014 20:12
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Guitarchitect posted:while we're on the topic of kickback, here's a loving idiot doing something loving retarded, looking like a douche while he does it: Those look like high school students. Who the gently caress taught them how to use a table saw?
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Jan 4, 2014 21:11
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Guitarchitect posted:while we're on the topic of kickback, here's a loving idiot doing something loving retarded, looking like a douche while he does it: I had a friend in middle school shop who did almost the same thing, except the piece of wood was just barely wider than the distance from the guard to the blade. He pushed the piece through, but not quite far enough past the blade. When he bent down to turn the saw off, the wood shot across the room, hit a metal table leg and split in half. He about poo poo himself because he said he felt the breeze of the wood flying past his head. It would have knocked his rear end out had he moved an inch higher. Mister Kingdom fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 22:35
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I probably mentioned it before but I don't want to be left out ... in our shop class a kid was ripping an oak board that kicked and put a hole through the drywall. Luckily we were all following the rules and no one was behind him and he was off to the side.
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Jan 4, 2014 23:04
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pageerror404 posted:Those look like high school students. Who the gently caress taught them how to use a table saw? Uhh, what is "Nobody?" At least he was using a push stick? Also, I'm pretty sure he took that board in the nuts, the video just cut before his body realized what happened. I used to think it'd be cool to be a shop teacher, but I'm pretty sure I'd die from stress every time someone used certain tools, such as the table saw.
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Jan 5, 2014 00:49
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Bad Munki posted:Uhh, what is "Nobody?" It's funny, I took wood working class in junior high and I actually can't remember them having a table saw. Band saw, drill press, disk sanders, scroll saw but no table saws.
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Jan 5, 2014 01:07
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We definitely had a table saw in high school. There was a board on a stand set up behind it to possibly catch any kickback and keep it from going further. In the center of that board, which was 1/2" ply, was a jagged, mostly-through hole. The hole was never repaired, as a warning.
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Jan 5, 2014 01:10
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Our high school didn't have a tablesaw either. Middle school did but students weren't allowed to use since the teacher barely trusted us with screw drivers (he wasn't wrong to do so). But, if you said what your cut was and how you wanted it set up he'd make the cut for you on it.
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Jan 5, 2014 03:14
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Our HS shop was well equipped with 3PH Delta equipment, table saw (3 or 5 HP, can't remember), band saw, 8" jointer, big rear end planer, radial arm saw, two lathes (from back when Delta still made big lathes), scroll saw, drill press and a humongous dust collector system that ran from all the machines and had ducts on the floor for sweeping. We also had a bunch of assembly/work tables with dog holes and vises, a tool room for hand tools, and a ventilated finishing room. Yes, it was sweet. We weren't allowed in the tool room nor were we generally allowed to use the hand tools except for draw knives. edit; yes, I forgot the lumber storage room vvvvvvvvv wormil fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jan 5, 2014 |
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Jan 5, 2014 03:30
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Sounds a lot like mine, except all our equipment was big green. Beautiful stuff. And a couple rooms for lumber storage, too, we had a better selection there than I do now.
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Jan 5, 2014 03:38
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My school didn't have a shop 
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Jan 5, 2014 03:50
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my high school had a foam cutting wire thing... that's it. my arch school, however, had a full woodworking shop, full machining room, full welding shop, and full CNC facilities. and you couldn't touch a thing without full safety training, and you got yelled at the instant you started to do something even slightly unsafe. and rightfully so.
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Jan 5, 2014 03:57
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